Banjo

If You have ever played around or experimented with COPs. (Coil Over Plug), or have wondered how they all work; or why there are 3 wire & 4 wires ones; here is a link to a utube video, that is long, but is very informative. All You Need to Know about COPs I've played with & experimented with several different brands & types, & believe me; All COPs are not borne equal ! No ! That is not one of mine. some guy on the internet, who suffered this fate, & had to rethread the spark plug-hole in the head, without taking the head off. Cheers Banjo

Altezzaclub, mentioned the distributor cap. The HT voltage is produced by the HT center connection on your ignition coil. This is fed via a single HT lead to the center point of the distributor cap. Inside the distributor, the "rotor", points that HT voltage to the appropriate spark plug lead. However; inside the distributor cap, is a carbon brush that transfers the HT to the top of the rotor button. To keep that carbon button in contact with the rotor button, there is a very tiny light spring behind it, to keep the carbon bush in contact with the distributor rotor. These tiny springs are known to break, or burn out. It they break, it creates a second spark plug gap. I actually had one break years ago, & the engine actually went better, until I put a load on the engine, & it missed badly. Have a look & You just might have found your problem. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/76154-high-energy-ignition-coils/#comment-721645 Cheers Banjo

When You have the dash out, can You take a photo of the regulator itself; which is directly behind the post or the rear, of the dash; where it is labelled +10V. If the regulator looks discoloured or broken in some way, I would suggest replacing it with a solid state one. Once You have a +10V voltage there; with no load (fuel or temp guages) applied, You can then add one at a time, & see whether, the +10V supply voltage slumps or drops. Cheers Banjo

That is not good. Assuming your battery is fully charged, it might be a good idea, to disconnect the alternator, whilst trying to sort out this fuel & temp guage issues. Cheers Banjo

OK, If you are measuring +9V at the fuel tank, that is a good start. However, if the regulator is marked as being a +10V one; then the +9V reading, is a bit low. That could be your multimeter. Check it by starting your engine, & putting the multimeter DC volts leads across the car battery. If the battery is fully charged, & your alternator & regulator is working correctly, the voltage should read somewhere between 12v to 14.5V. If the reading of the battery voltage was OK, then we can assume the multimeter, is reading reasonably accurate. When you got a reading in the boot, on the wire from the dash; was the wire measured connected to the fuel level sender, or not ? If it was connected to the fuel level sender; did the fuel guage display any defection at all, of the indicating needle ? I would suggest that You fill up your tank to full, so you know what the level actually is, that the guage is suppose to be indicating. That's because it is a "bugger" of a job, to remove the tank, to extract the sender unit; so that you should make that your last resort, in trouble shooting. If your fuel guage is displaying some level, irrespective of whether it is correct, then it indicates there is no open circuit in the wiring. The level sensors, in the tank, do however, have a habit of wearing out after many years of use. If you get the +9V voltage at the disconnected wire in the boot, then that indicates, that possibly the fuel guage is in bad shape, & that maybe the +10V regulator has an issue. I would suggest, disconnecting the fuel sender wire, in the boot, above the tank; then measure the +10V terminal on the back of the dashboard. If is still reading +9V with no load, then the voltage regulator has an issue, as is most common. I might add, that while you are doing these tests, that you disconnect the coolant temperature sensor, near the bottom of the top water hose, in case it has an issue, & is loading up the +10V regulator. Sorry I cannot be any more specific, as there are a few variables in there. Basically disconnect the fuel guage & sendor, & the coolant temp sensor initially, & check whether that +9v reading, remains the same, or changes in some way. That may give me an idea, as to what is going on there. P.S. Unfortunately, that circuit that Altezzaclub posted does not indicate a +7 to +10V regulator at all. It depicts all the guages being connected to +12V battery supply, which is a bit strange. Maybe it's a very early circuit. However, your photo of the rear of your dashboard; indicates it should have a +10v regulator therein. Cheers Banjo

Good Morning ! Your picture indicates that the regulator in your particular dash unit, is a +10 volt model. The circuit for your fuel guage is very, very simple. When You turn on the ignition, the car batteries +12V is fed to the voltage regulator, which converts its output voltage to +10 volts. The reason there is a lower voltage, so that the fuel gauge's accuracy, is not affected by the +12V supply bouncing around, as it does. The first thing You should be measuring is not the resistance of the sender unit, in the fuel tank; but whether You have +10V at the so detailed terminal, on the back of the dash assembly. As I noted previously; it is the voltage regulators that are prone to fail, in these dashes. Turn the ignition on, & using your multimeter on a DC voltage range higher than 10 volts, measure the voltage between the terminal marked 10V, & chassis ground. There is a good chance the regulator has failed; & as result the fuel gauge will not read; even if it's resistance varies over the correct range. If you Google this subject, you'll find a number of articles & videos, regarding this issue. Here is one that may assist You. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7iRxnILM3U&t=28s I trust that assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi 79rolla, You have reposted your message of the 24th May, when myself & Altezzaclub, both replied, on that same day. Did those posts not assist You ? I only addressed the fuel guage & coolant temp issues, but You did ask about the speedo. Although olde Corollas can have speedo mechanisms in the dash; they do "wear out"; being mechanical. The issues you are seen could be caused by the speedo cable itself, that drives the speedo in the dash, via a flexible rotating cable, connected to the rear drive of the gearbox. This cable has very small "square sections" on each end of the cable. It is one of the mechanical items, that rarely receives any attention. My advice would be to remove the cable completely then remove the inner core & clean & reoil. Make sure the outer cable sheath, is undamaged, & has no kinks in it. In particular; take a look at the inner cables extreme ends. These are a small "square section", but can lose their square shape over the years. Let us know what You find; with pictures; if possible; as a photo can sometimes replace a hundred words. Cheers Banjo

The voltage regulator, will fix at least half your issues. The reason there is a voltage regulator, is that you don't want guages like fuel & temperature etc. tied to the +12V battery terminal voltage; which can vary a lot from cranking (7v-8V), to full on output of the alternator, whilst charging (14V - 15V). The voltage regulator for the gauge/s, is chosen as well below +12V. They are commonly 6V, 7V, or 8V. One real crude regulator I have here was a vibrating contact on the rear of the fuel gauge, & created an average voltage that was lower than the supply voltage of +12 volts. I even found one, that used a 10V regulator. The ones in the dash area, are usually nestled in between the various dash light bulbs; & often burn out, as they don't like things like fuel gage going short circuit to ground. Taking the dashboard out is a horrible job; (especially if You have big hands), but will be necessary if you are to fix or replace the regulator, If your dash wiring is printed circuit type, You will often find the voltage printed on the printed circuit plastic arrangement, adjacent to the regulator, which will often be "charred". I have repaired them in the past, with a standard LM7806 or LM7808 voltage regulator, available from places like Jaycar Electronics, & the like. When You get your dash out of the car; turn it over &, & take a picture of it, & post it here, & we'll see how bad it is, & suggest how it can be possibly be repaired. P.S. I do remember having the same issue as You; a long time ago, & modifying the dash panel as I mentioned above. It's been running for probably a decade, & I never had another issue. Maybe, I posted about it here somewhere ? I'll take a look. LINK: 2017 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73224-that-pesky-little-guage-voltage-regulator/#comment-708505 Cheers Banjo

Hi Keith, By TPS, are You referring to the throttle position sensor ? Maybe TPS refers to Trigger Position Sensor ? Once You post some pics of these items, you've sourced for your build, it will become a little clearer, & we can assist you. I'll have a look at Triggers Wheels, in the UK, if they have a website, & see if I can see what you've acquired. Trigger Wheels UK Cheers Banjo

Hmmm ! Does your setup, include a idle control valve, & is it being used ? When the engine is warmed up & idling; is the idling nice & steady ? The changeover of the ECU from idling to higher revs, seems to be where your issues appear. (as soon as you touch the throttle, & the TPS comes into play). I suspect that the O2 sensor output is probably not even used; in the idling control programming ? It may well be, that the older Haltech E6 series ECU You are using, is a bit too slow, at this point of the program. Have you recalibrated the TPS, recently ? Long while, since I used my olde Haltech EK6, so I cannot member any idiocies, I may have come across with it. It would do well, to put the timing light on the engine, & just see if there is anything unusual appearing to happen with the timing, at the point, where you, commence the throttle movement, when taking off from a standing start. There is an answer; so it is just a case of "seek & find", methinks ! Cheers Banjo

So a little bit more to do as yet, but very excited that my rusEFI Mega32 processor has arrived, & will soon be integrated into the Speeduino V4.3d PCB, in coming days. Most modern vehicles apparently now use 2 wire temp sensors for Air Intake Temp, & Coolant Temp; so no need for me to "gut" my olde sensorhousing that screwed into the thermostat housing. I managed to order them both; on ebay, from the same supplier, for a good price. Bargain; as they come with the 2 wire plug & tails also. They've arrived & I've checked them on Speeduino board, & they are reading spot on, at room temperatures. If I want them to be more accurate at their operating temperutues; it is simply a matter of holding them at that temp, & measuring their resistance; and then changing the voltage divider resistor on the PCB to match, so that at operating temperature the reading is approximately half the supply voltage (5V /2 = 2.5V) Cheers Banjo

Hi Alasdair ! Thanks so much for that wonderful set of photos. Only one sentence describes this . . . . "A work of Art & Dedication". Well done ! What colour have you decided upon, for outside. Matching the engine bay ? I take my hat off to You. Accomplishing body work, is not a great joyous part of working on any car; for me; so I really applaud your dedication. Now the fun part comes for me. The putting it all back together, & hearing that first roar to life, as You turn the key for the first time. Keep the photos coming. You provide inspiration to others. Cheers Banjo

Have a read through a thread on these matters going back about 8 years, in which I remember contributing. Gearbox Swaps I know mine was a bit of a nightmare, removing an auto & fitting a KE70 5 speed gearbox. It gets a mention in this thread. Apparently, the bearings for these older Corolla manual gearboxes are getting very hard to access these days, according to Altezzaclub. Hope that is of some assistance. Cheers Banjo

There is one other input into an ECU, that is important; but posed a problem, as it also "shares" the +12V chassis ground, with the +5V ground return path. That is the battery voltage signal. This important in an ECU as lots of things have to change there settings, based on what the battery voltage is at the time. ECU setting like dwell time for ignition, & injector timing, are critical, & are usually adjusted by map settings in the ECU. However, the ECU needs to know whether the +12V battery voltage is 14.4V whilst charging; or +7.6 volts whilst cranking on a cold Winters morning. Normally You would simply scale down the battery voltage with two resistors in series, such that the lower resistor had exactly +5V across it, when the battery voltage was at it's highest (eg: +14.4V) The only problem with this is, that this action would then tie the cars +12V chassis ground, to the +5V isolated ground, I had so carefully devised; so it sort of defeats the purpose. A bit of research indicates there are precision linear opto-couplers that you can feed on the input side with a +12V signal & obtain an isolated +5V signal on the isolated side, where the +5V signal represents the actual battery voltage. So todays exercise is to experiment with this & get this working, & then move on. My rusEFI processor MEGA144 board should be delivered today or tomorrow, from the USA; so I'll be excited to get that up & running with my Speeduino, & put my lack of CAS signal usage issues with Speeduino code behind me. Cheers Banjo

Most modern vehicles apparently now use 2 wire temp sensors for Air Intake Temp, & Coolant Temp; so no need for me to gut my olde sensor that screwed into the thermostat housing. I managed to order them both, in the last day or so, from the same supplier, for a good price. Bargain; as they come with the 2 wire plug & tails also. Cheers Banjo

Update on my issue with Speeduino ECU's non use of the CAS pulse to resynch, after the engine starts. The rusEFI Mega144 high speed microprocessor board, with a SMT32 microprocessor on board, should be here shortly, via UPS from the USA. In the meantime, I addressed over the weekend; a consideration, that is "the bain" of many ECUs; Electrical NOISE ! Noise can affect any electronic equipment, via two basic avenues. One is through the atmosphere, which most people describe as "interference". It's why a radio, or TV may crackle, whilst a storm is in the vicinity. This type of noise; can, quite often; be protected, by fitting the ECU, inside a metal case, which is grounded to the chassis of the car. Although the chassis ground is not a "true" earth or ground, as the vehicle has rubber tyres, that insulate the vehicle's chassis from the ground/earth. You will be aware, that many cars used to have a rubber strap, (with wires therein) that hung below the car, & was attached to the chassis/body of the car. It dragged on the roadway, beneath the vehicle. This was used to reduce charge built up in the body of the vehicle; that was believed to cause "car sickness". The strap "shunted" the charge to ground effectively; although quite often only when the car stopped. The problem with electronics in the car, is that most circuits use the vehicle's chassis as the return path for most circuits. Example: All lights only require just one "switched" wire to turn the light on. The return path to the -VE terminal of the battery, is the chassis of the vehicle. That is why there is simply one big thick cable, connecting the battery -VE terminal to the chassis, & why it is so important. So the result of this fact; is that an ECU, which runs on 3.3V or 5V, shares the same return to the battery -VE terminal, as does the starter motor, which pulls sometimes hundreds of amps, & generates a lot of noise, due to it's carbon brushes & commutator. I hear You say; Hold on; the ECU runs on 3.3V or 5V. Yes they do, but the the 3.3V or 5.0V supplies, are derived by a regulator that "steps down", the 12V power, & therefore the 3.3V or 5.0V supplies; "share" the same ground or return path for the 12V battery. My thought was; if I could find away, to isolate the 3.3V or 5.0V power supply from chassis ground completely, then electrical noise in the system, could be reduced, or nearly eliminated entirely. I wondered how many other ECUs, on the market, used a technique like this. I thought it might be common, in top end ECUs; especially, those used in motor sport applications. My research indicated there were two manufacturers of commercial ECUs, that address this specifically. One was Haltech, (although only on the R3, R5, S2 & S3 series) The other was the Motec M1 Series, although apparently not as well isolated as the Haltech series above.. So I set about building an electronic power supply, which has a 12V input, & a 5V output, but absolutely no connection between them at all. All possible using a tiny little "Meanwell" isolator module with a 12V input; & in my case a 9V output. I then used the 9V output, to feed the input of a +5V or +3.3V regulator (LM7805) precision regulator. The 9V input is exposed to drop off, as the 12V battery voltage, can easily drop to 10V or lower; during cranking, on a Winters morning. However, the Meanwell isolator at that level, still produced enough output; for the +5V regulator to still provide a consistent & stable +5V supply. Exactly the same technique could be used with a 3.3V regulator. If I eventually change over completely, to the rusEFI model uaEFI ECU, which happens to run on 3.3V DC. Because my system is "compartmentised" into three (3) blocks of electronics, I've actually built three of these isolated +5v power supplies, so the load on each one, is quite conservative. There are other ways, I'm hoping to reduce noise in the system. One is to use screened wiring, with the shield, tied to "chassis ground", at one end of the cable, only, on all cables out in the engine bay, feeding signals to COPs or injectors. The other technique is to use "opto couplers" throughout the circuit, to feed the very narrow ignition signals to their respective points on the engine. The "opto coupler"; is again a device where a light beam inside the opto-coupler feeds the signal from input to output; without any hard wire connection in-between input & output terminals. Bear in mind, that engine bay in any vehicle is a "hostile environment", at the best of times. Heat, vibration, wind & water are always possibilities. In addition, there are parts of the engine bay may have high levels of radiated noise, from spark plugs arcs/injectors; & starter motor commutator & brushes etc. One potential issue I found that upset my whole concept of isolating the 5V ground circuit from the 12V ground, was the C.O.P.s. The C.O.P.s have two return paths requirements. One for the return path, for the +12V coil charging circuit, which can quite commonly carry 8-10 amperes. The other is the return path for the +5V trigger signals to the C.O.P.s. The real issue here is, that most C.O.P.s have a single "shared" return wire, which services both the 12V charging of the C.O.P. & the +5V trigger pulse. This is how the DENSO C.O.P.s I've been using work. I chose DENSO originally, as my late model Toyota Corolla uses them. However, a bit of research uncovered an AC Delco C.O.P. which does have a separate return wire for the +12V coil charging, & a separate wire for the +5V trigger signal. I also found a compatible C.O.P. to the AC Delco C.O.P.s made by ICON, & available here in Australia on line, at a better price. My tests to date with them have proven very good. Just have to be careful, that You don't provide them too much dwell, as they internally monitor the charging current, & when the coil reaches saturation, they automatically fire. I've set my dwell range to 2.0 to 3.0 m/sec. Last thing You need or want; is your COPs running "hot", & either dying, or suffering a shorter life. I have one other area, I'll look at in the next day or so, which is sensors, that feed information to the ECU. Example: The coolant temp sensor, is commonly screwed in the engine somewhere; where it's return path is the block or head of the engine, which is actually at the 12V ground potential. This would effectively connect the +12V ground & +5V grounds circuits together, outside the EC; after I've gone to so much trouble to separate them. A simple way, I'll try in the coming days, is to turn the coolant sensor into a 2 wire device. I'll gut it mechanically, & then glue a two wire thermistor in there, with two wires coming out. This will result in a simpler solution, than building another electronic isolator for any external sensors, that use the chassis as a return path. To some extent, the same situation, may be an issue with the Intake Air Temperature (I.A.T.), but that is much easier to isolate from chassis ground. Talking about chassis ground; the termination of the strap/cable between the 12V battery negative terminal, & the chassis is most important. It should be clean on all mating surfaces, & be a very firm tight joint. When starting the engine on a cold morning, the cranking of the starter motor can draw substantial current from the battery, via that connection joint. I have measured voltage drops of 1-2 volts, across that joint on starting. Cheers Banjo

Recently discovered that there is a module produced by rusEFI in the USA, which includes the high speed SMT32 processor, which is simply a plug & play replacement, for the Arduino Mega2650 microprocessor board. It is called the MEGA144, & runs at speeds many, many times faster than the Arduino. There is a couple of matters that need attention, as it runs on 3.3V where the Arduino Mega2650 runs on 5.0V, so I may need to upgrade, my N type Mosfets, so they can be switched by the SMT32 micro's 3.3V outputs. It's almost unbelievable that it sells for just USD49.00. As The AUD vs USD exchange rate is pretty good atm, I ordered one from the rusEFI store yesterday. That will overcome the issue I'm having with the Speeduino not having enough grunt, to continually using the CAS pulse to synch the ECU, after the engine has started. The rusEFI has firmware that You download from their website; which does use the CAS pulse to resynch continuously. If that works well for me, I might invest in rusEFI's model UAEFI Model standalone ECU. The specs of the ECU is amazing, for USD 175.00 ea. This is not a kit. It is assembled ECU, ready to go. It even has a wide band controller onboard for wide band O2 sensor. There are metal & plastic cases for it, & it has provision for Molex quality connectors, for loom connections in your vehicle. I'll keep You posted, once I receive the MEGA144, & get it up & running. https://rusefi.com/ Cheers Banjo

Moved to 4K EFI Test Rig - IAC Valve subject heading

Moved to 4K EFI Test Rig - IAC Valve thread.

Hi John, Very good Hi-Res photos you've taken. I blew up that "moving wedge" piece, to see whether I could determine, whether it originally had a piece of rubber up against the pipe to stem the flow; or whether it was just metal to metal. It's clear to see where the pipe end came up against it. Cheers Banjo

Ha Ha ! Riddle solved ! Never seen one before, unfortunately. My 52 year olde KE-30 2 door sedan, has a heater, but is connected to a 'mechanically actuated" heater coolant valve, via a tap unit; right on the back of the head, down in that narrow area between the back of the head, & the firewall. It's a hard place, even to take a picture. I have modified it, so that without the heater in use, the coolant exits the rear of the head & returns to the thermostat housing, via a factory fitted pipe, running along the side of the engine, just below the spark plugs. Works a treat, but as I said; is a hard thing to modify & fit with the engine in situ. I think when I built it, I fabricated it on another head, on the bench; & then attached to the rear of the head in the car. Never given me any issues. Even without a heater; modifying the engine to return coolant to the front of the engine, from the moulding plate on the rear of the head, is one of the best mods to equalize coolant temps along the length of the head, & remove that "dead flow" area, in the water jacket at the back of the head, where is just fills up with coolant crude. I even have one on each of my two running test bed engines, on a frame in the garage, which I used to do all my trigger wheel experiments on. Cheers Banjo

Hi John, That is simply amazing. You are obviously one of those people with a lot of patience. Many would look at that engine, in it's original state, & give up completely, before even getting started. My query, is that a 1100cc engine. I had to go & ask AI to give me all the early models & capacities. ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ There were six major versions of the Toyota K series straight-4 engine produced between 1966 and 2007. These engines were notable for their 2-valve-per-cylinder pushrod (OHV) design and non-crossflow heads. Toyota K Series Model Specifications Engine Model Capacity (cc) Capacity (L) Production Years K 1,077 cc 1.1 L 1966 – 1969 2K 993 cc 1.0 L 1969 – 1988 3K 1,166 cc 1.2 L 1969 – 1979 4K 1,290 cc 1.3 L 1977 – 1989 5K 1,486 cc 1.5 L 1983 – 1996 7K 1,781 cc 1.8 L 1983 – 2007 Key Performance Variants While the six models listed above represent the base blocks, many sub-variants existed based on fuel delivery and emissions: K-B / 3K-B: High-performance versions equipped with twin carburetors. 3K-R: A rare, race-spec 1.3L version. 4K-E / 7K-E: Fuel-injected versions (indicated by the "E" suffix). 3K-C / 4K-C: Versions designed with specific emissions controls (often for California). 3K-U / 4K-U: Japanese-spec engines with emission control systems like "Toyota Total Clean-Catalyst". The picture below is of the original 60 year olde 1077 cc K Series engine, (1966) in a cutaway format, in a Toyota museum in Japan. What interests me in this picture, is what appears to be a coolant bypass valve, between the thermostat housing & the inlet of the water pump. This could also be called a radiator bypass valve; so maybe was used to heat up the coolant quickly, from a cold start; in very cold climate countries ? ______________________________________________________________________________________________________ The original 1077cc Toyota K series engine, introduced in 1966, was the foundation of one of Toyota's most successful engine families. It was a water-cooled, inline-four, pushrod (OHV) design produced at the Kamigo plant in Toyota City. Historical Significance The "100cc Advantage": Originally intended for the under-1000cc tax class, the displacement was increased late in development to 1077cc to outperform the rival Datsun 1000. Marketing Strategy: Toyota used the slogan "The extra 100 cc gives you the edge" to highlight its performance over competitors. Corolla Launch: This engine powered the first-generation Toyota Corolla (KE10) in October 1966, playing a pivotal role in mass motorization in Japan. Technical Specifications (Standard K) Configuration: Naturally aspirated straight-four, 2 valves per cylinder (8 total). Block & Head: Cast iron block with an aluminium alloy head. Bore x Stroke: 75 mm × 61 mm. Crankshaft: Supported by five main bearings to reduce vibration and support high-speed operation. Output: Power: 60 PS (44 kW; 59 hp) at 6000 rpm. Torque: 83 N⋅m (61 lb⋅ft) at 3800 rpm. Valvetrain: High-mounted camshaft with short pushrods for improved performance Variants and Applications K-B Engine (1968–1969): A high-performance version equipped with twin carburettors, producing 73 PS (54 kW) at 6600 rpm. K-D Engine: A higher-output variant with an increased compression ratio. Key Vehicles: Toyota Corolla (KE1x series): The primary application from 1966–1969. Toyota Publica (KP3x series): The Publica SL received the more powerful K-B variant. Wikipedia +3 The 1077cc unit was eventually replaced in late 1969 by the expanded 1.2-litre 3K engine (1166cc). The History of Toyota Corollas Cheers Banjo

The "new age" engine, has no camshafts at all. No belts; no chains or sprockets; & can run in reverse, so you don't need a reverse gear in the gearbox. The New Age Engine Cheers Banjo

Yep Si ! Made in China. Following link, indicates You can have one shipped immediately. https://milexuan.en.made-in-china.com/product/ZFUTSGHcneth/China-Milexuan-Wholesale-1-5-L-Motor-Part-5K-Engine-Short-Block-for-Toyota-Carina-Corolla-Van-Liteace-Forklift.html?pv_id=1jj2s0hfeffc&faw_id=1jj2s1m40724&bv_id=1jj2s1m448be&pbv_id=1jj2s0egvb22 Note last picture in the series shows boxes & boxes of them ready to ship to Tasmania. Cheers Banjo

So why were K series engines just so good in their day, with so many still out there adding 1000s of klms to various cars ? I Asked this question of A.I. & You might like to read it's reply. Cheers Banjo