Banjo

I'd make him an offer, but it hasn't got a radiator. :( :D :lolcry: I know a lady with seven kids and she's got a saucepan than feeds the lot, that's not as big as that one upside down on top of the carby. I'd be worried about rebuilding it, incase a snake appeared out of the thermostat housing hose :lolcry: :D :D

KE-10 R.I.P. KE-10 at Peace ! :( :D :lolcry: :lolcry: * kneels on one knee & says a prayer *

Oh well Mikey. It will probably finish up in Holland or somewhere remote. Finland ? :)

You are spot on Jamie. The clutch driven plate comes in 19 spline (4speed) & 21 spline for the mid to later (5speed) The pressure plates are pretty much interchangeable, except for some of the very early 2K & 3K motors, which had different mounting bolt spacings for the pressure plate. :)

No Fook ! I don't think it drifts. It just goes in a straight line: . . . . . very swiftly. With those big lower front defectors, it suggests to me, it might just land on water very easily. I'm just fascinated by the pictures & the amount of engineering that has gone into it. Anyway, I'm off to the garage now, "to sharpen the mower blades" and clean up & see if I can't come acoss a jet engine, I'd forgotten I had. :)

For those of you who might not have seen this link in Toymods, to a guy in the USA who has too much money or something . . . . You won't believe this ! I love the bit about it being street legal. I'd love to see the face of one our boys in blue, as I pass him on the Logan motorway @ say 150 clicks. Jet Powered MR-2 Toyota on eBay :)

What about "com-od-o" * washes mouth out* sorry Rob ! :)

I don't feel too bad for me. I picked up on eBay yesterday; a brand new High Performance ignition coil worth about $ 80.00 for $ 30.00, and a new powered timing light kit, with compression tester & automotive multimeter for just $ 19.00, both here in Brisbane, so I could pick up without paying postage. Whoopee ! :) :n: :fuzz:

Don't know whether, any of you were watching this eBay item over the last few days. Cars like this rarely come up, even on eBay. One lady owner, 2,000 odd klms per year for 25 years. Absolutely immaculate ! Just down the road at Port Macquarie. A gem of a KE-55 I thought the car would probably bring about $ 2,000 to a serious buyer, but when at 7 minutes to close of auction there was only 3 bids & it was $ 1,050, I thought I might be in with a chance. A quick word over washing up with better half, and it was on. I set myself a limit of $ 1,500, and had it for a while, only to be sniped in the dying seconds, by a completely new bidder, who took it for $ 1575.00, although I'll never know what his/her maximum proxy bid was. Anyway, you win some, you lose some. I had a quick look at the feedback on the auction winner, and it appears he is an international seller of classic & vintage cars to buyers & sellers all over the world. I'm glad to see that even the experts recognise the value of good olde rollas. It'll probably finish up being shipped to the USA or elsewhere, where it will sell for 3 times that price. At least it will always carry that little plate that says it was made by AMI in Australia. It would have looked so good with my 5K & 5 speed g/box on board. sob sob sob sob sob

I asked my family, but no one can remember what my first word/s were, althought they probably had something to do with food. They did however remember, that I used to push my little sister around in a stroller & manage to tip her over, presumably whilst try to make the stroller drift ! :)

That's got to be the story of the week so far ! Arh ! . . . . . But did you utter it with a Japanese accent ? Anyone top that ? :)

Step 1 before taking gearbox off. Remove clutch cable from end of clutch lever fork on the side of the gearbox. (Pretty easy job) Remove rubber boot carefully, as unless it is fairly new, it could tear & fall apart. Get a little trouble lamp, or old headlight bulb soldered to a couple of wires across battery, and put it inside bellhousing & have a good look around. If gearbox was removed only 12 months ago, then inside of bellhousing should have been cleaned at the time, by your mechanic. Check carefully for oil. It is not unknown for the front gearbox mainshaft oil seal to go,and gearbox oil to enter bellhousing, whereafter it gets spread around like jam. If driven clutch plate is breaking down, there could also be signs of fibrish stuff all over the inner bellhousing. Good luck ! Ultimately, the gearbox is going to have to come out, if the clutch is slipping, but a few minutes spend investigating will sometimes give you a clearer idea of what to expect, & plan accordingly. Good source of new clutch parts is eBay. I recently picked up & brand new KE55 clutch repair kit which included clutch plate, clutch driven plate & throw out bearing for $ 15.50 + $ 12.50 freight.

You are never too old for a billy cart ! Wish I had one of those when I was a kid. :D

Fook, I'll see if I can't sketch out a wiring diagram of how to wire the headlight system up I have got/modified, and post it. Can't do it at the moment as I am at work and the boss is watching ! My Boss :P My Boss when he's cranky :P :dance:

I'm with Xany. The way Toyota wire up their headlights in the K series is wierd. From what I've worked out, most of the problems seem to be in the light switch unit on the steering column. There's lots of little contacts in there, and close inspection shows that some are carrying a lot of current, which doesn't figure when there is a relay to do all that work. Appears the headlight relay is only for LOW BEAD. The HI BEAM is switched via the stork switch directly without a relay. There is a seperate contact for HI BEAM indicator (blue light) & HI BEAM lights, and HI BEAM flasher, in the switch itself. All very confusing. I found all this out when I lost HI BEAM altogether, but HI BEAM still worked on the HI BEAM flasher. I solved problem by installing a dual relay from SuperAutoCheap and swapping around a couple of wires in the light switch so the lights work in a more conventional wiring manner. The dual light relay has fuses built in. Mount the dual relay up close to the battery & run wires to fusible link & Hi & Lo beams. Result: cuts down the usual voltage drops, as power lighting circuit is relatively short. Oh, my lights are brighter now !!! :P

Sorry Fook ! Too busy reading the substance to notice the heading ! Anyway, wouldn't go astray on our site. :P

Excellent addition to WIKI . Soon we'll have all those Toymods boys over here ! :P :P

Hi Alex ! Welcome aboard Rollaclub ! Campbelltown N.S.W. eh ! I bought my current KE-55 couple in Campbelltown in 1996. Still in love with it, and still going strong. Used to live in Raby, just behind the Raby Tavern, before I saw the light and moved to the sunshine state. Anyway, be aware that the speedo cable for the KE55 is different for auto & manual transimissions, when looking around wreckers. I lost mine recently when I did a bit of off road, and snagged the cable, where it hangs down a bit before entering the rear end of the gearbox. An extra metal cable clamp onto the chassis rail, to prevent this sag, will prevent these problems. I had a bit of trouble getting hold of a good second hand speedo cable. The inner is no problem, as after market replacements are available from Repco & the like for about $ 40.00. The outer sheath will be the problem. If you get stuck, give me a yell and we will get you one up here in Qld. There is a good guy at Caloundra on the Sunshine Coast who has some. Love to see some pictures of your car. Plenty of info & helpers here in this club for you. We all love our K series Corollas. :P

Three Cheers for Nick ! Hurray ! Hurray ! Hurray ! :P :P :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance: :kiwi: (Y)

Well Done ! Extra glass of red tonight with dinner ! 1 million hits a month coming up ! Top of Toyota Sites list coming up ! We're flying ! Need that Jap spec Hi-Ace party van on eBay. Let's all take it to the footy. "GO THE CANE TOADS" :P :P :dance:

Don't know whether any of you guys know of, or have used the following site before. AUTOSHOP101 I came across it recently, while researching how different electonic engine management systems solve the problem of exacting timing during cranking. The site is very informative. It has basic information and some very interesting technical articals on lots of interesting automotive control subjects. The technical articals are fairly generic, but are all based on TOYOTA technology, so most things you read on the site are very applicable to our engines. I recommend the site as a good read to any "newbies" who read these pages but are too frightened to ask, because they don't know an EGR from a BOV. The AUTOSHOP101 site uses plenty of acronyms, but clearly spells out what each one stands for. After you read a few of the technical articals, you quickly realise how many acronyms there are in this game. If you are not directly in the industry, it must sound like double dutch. The site is an easy read with plenty of clear diagrams and precise & concise text. Have a look and see what you think. I was impressed and it is now added to my favourites. :P

Had a cracked lower ball joint that gave similar symptoms once ! :P

Funny; I came upon this just last weekend. Have built a test bed on the garage floor out of a couple of 200mm x 50mm hardwood sleepers I got from the local landscape supplier. Had the 5K on it to test run it before dropping in into the car. Anyway, started up first pop, after strip down & rebuild, but would not idle. Read up & discovered the purpose of the fuel solenoid; wired it up, and perfect idle. "putting in corner of memory" . . . . . . . If ever out on the road with major electical problem, and have to hot wire ignition to get car going, always remember to run a wire from Bat +ve to fuel solenoid. :thumbsup:

Well ! You two have now answered a question I wanted to ask Mike, but just wasn't game. Why do you call your car "Cricket" ? Now I know. A bit like our Chrysler "Centra", isn't it Fook ? :P

I endorse all the suggestions made above. All K series engines leak oil, but with close attention to detail, they can all be eliminated. Luckily they are all on the distributor side of the engine, which is easy to get at. First rule is to keep engine clean, so oil leaks are obvious as soon as they occur. SuperCheap $ 1.78 degreaser & hose ! The rocker cover is easy to fix. The older, the rocker cover gaskets get, the harder they get; and hard gaskets don't seal well. Get a new gasket. Clean surface of head where gasket contacts head scrupulously. Final wipe with metho & dry. Put a fine bead of silicon gasket sealant right around the gasket in the centre between those two tiny little "flaps" on the gasket. Tighten down rocket cover nuts tightly. Problem solved, guaranteed Those pesky spark plug aluminum tubes are the greatest culprits. They are horribly expensive. Someone on RollaClub, recently posted they bought a set of four (4) and it cost $ 80.00. I've paid less for whole engines than that ! You can get more life out of them by squaring back up the top flange, and opening up the spark plug hole a little with a tapered reamer (or large file handle end) so that they do not bind, & rotate when tightening up the spark plug. Always fit new rubber "O" rings and put some sealant around "O" ring, as suggested elsewhere in this thread. The mechanical fuel pump is always an annoying source of oil leaks. The pump has a little well inside at the bottom, and a drain hole in case the diaphragm perforates and leaks petrol. That's so it does not build up, & flow into sump. Trouble is, as I see it, the oil gets splashed / blown onto the lever & runs down into the bottom of the pump and comes out the drain hole designed for fuel. Others might have other ideas as to the reason. If sump becomes pressurised, then any outside opening in the engine to ambient, is going to be an easy path for oil to the outside world. The other factor in all this, is the keep the pressure in the sump area of the engine down by making sure the breather valves etc. are always clean & working. Remember, both top & bottom of pistons act as pumps, An oil catch can, & breather can help here if necessary. Ever seen how much oil gets pumped out of a race engine into those catch cans. Rob, could probably throw some more light on this. Not sure whether oil catch cans breathing to atmosphere are legal on a street car. Most PCV valves breath back to the inlet manifold. Anyway, attention to detail in this area, can eliminate oil leaks in K series engines. :down: