Banjo

Where abouts are you located, and when you say the mornings are cool, how cool are they ? What is the temperature in deg C ? A good squirt of "Start Yu Barstard" will probably solve the problem. Cheers Banjo

Hi Charles, Thanks for the feedback ! Glad that all the advice proved successful in the end. Cheers Banjo

Hi Charles, Was the new clutch cable you fitted a genuine Toyota one, or an after-market one ? I've seen aftermarket ones that were too long on the inner cable, and you couldn't adjust enough at the firewall. Did you by any chance have the flywheel machined acoss the friction surface, reducing the step on the flywheel, to the outer area where the pressure plate bolts up to. Should be a minimum of a 1mm step off memory. Cheers Banjo

Charles, my immediate thought also ! It's been done before, & certainly results in the symptoms you describe. We even had a rollaclub member put the clutch throw out bearing on the wrong way around recently, which ultimately resulted in a horrible noise. The unfortunate problem with all these mistakes is, the whole gearbox has to come out again. Here's a checklist (that other may wish to add to) to ensure when doing clutch work, before the gearbox goes back in. 1. If you are doing a auto / manual conversion, make sure you obtain & install & "new" spigot bearing in the back of the flywheel. 2. Check that the clutch plate has the right number of splines for your gearbox spigot shaft. 19 or 21 splines. 3. Ensure an "after market" pressure plate doesn't clip the bell housing. Especially a problem when fitting KE70 5 speed boxes. 4. Ensure clutch plate is fitted the right way around. 5. Align the clutch plate before tightening up the pressure plate holding bolts, which should be tightened evenly a bit at a time. 6. Ensure little retaining pins/clips are fitted to the clutch fork pivot shaft ends. 7. Fit rubber boot to fork arm & bellhousing hole before fitting gearbox to the engine. 8. If you need to change the reversing light switch wiring connector on top of the gearbox in anyway, do it before reinstalling gearbox. Cheers Banjo

Hey Gav . . . When you put the 7K engine in it way back then, can you remember what throttle cable you used ? I seem to remember Pajero V6 being mentioned in a post somewhere, but I can't find it. Adrian (Nesta) is off to the wreckers this weekend to find a cable suitable for a 4K with 7K EFI, he is fitting to a KE30. I told him I think I read about a Pajero V6 cable working, but would like that confirmed if possible, or any other suitable "long" cables others have used. What a classic Rolla this KE18 has been. A tribute to everyone who as owned it. Cheers Banjo

Hi Zen, When a car is 40+ years olde, you look everywhere for rust. In particular, Rear bottom of front guards. Bottom of rear quarters. Around roof gutters. Around boot hinge area. In boot wheel well & side pockets. Under floor mats, front & rear. In "chassis" "U" channels. Around rear spring front mounts. Under rubber lip on front & rear window screens. Just go over it with a fine tooth comb. Cheers Banjo

No ! The space down is for the KE70 5 speed box, as it's rear mount hangs lower, which would push the gearbox rear up higher, if you didn't space it. Cheers Banjo

Hi Karel, I've done the KE70 5 speed box into a KE30, that had an auto. It's really a breeze, without too many troubles in the x-member department. I found you can use the existing cross member with just the need to drill two new holes for the rear gearbox mount. The gearbox mount is different to the KE55 4 & 5 speed gear boxes, and hangs lower, requiring the cross member to be spaced off the chassis by about 20-25 mm, to keep the tail shaft angle the same. Because of the spacers, you'll need longer bolts for cross member to chassis, but they are not a hassle to find. If you are like me, you'll have more trouble doing the pedal box conversion, (because of the tight location) than you will with the gearbox & cross member fitting. Nice thing is you can use the same tail shaft. Only trick with auto to manual conversion is to bridge the ignition lock out, in the wiring, at the auto console. Cheers Banjo

I've changed a few LCA inner bushes in my time. In fact I did a couple only a few weeks ago. I remember struggling with them the first time I did one, years ago. I found then, that the hardest bit was actually removing the old bushes, rather than fitting the new bushes. Quite often, the old rubber bushes have been in there so long, they literally vulcanise to the LCA. The technique I have used works well, & doesn't require any special equipment. 1. Definitely remove LCA from the car. 2. Place LCA in a vice & saw off with a hacksaw, the section of the rubber bush shoulder on each side, that protrudes from the LCA. 3. Don't worry about cutting the centre metal crush tube, as the bush kit always includes a new one. 4. Drill a series of pilot holes through the rubber bush between metal tube & LCA. 5. Open up these holes with a larger drill until the holes nearly join. 6. The tube & remaining bush material can then be easily knocked out with a large drift punch. 7. Clear vulcanansied rubber remaining inside the LCA opening with a round file, being careful not to remove any metal. 8. Finish cleaning inside of hole with sand paper & your finger, until metal only remains. 9. Apply supplied lubricant grease to both bushes, as detailed in instructions with new bushes. 10. Fit both bushes at the same time using an ordinary vice, with a piece of packing timber so the jaws of the vice then pressurise the whole of the outer bush end. Pretty simple, & effective, and has worked for me every time. P.S. The outer lower LCA ball joints can also be removed & replaced by hand, with a bit of care & patience, without the need for a press, but that's another story. Cheers Banjo

They are the standard 10mm x 1.25 that you buy in SCA, AutoBarn or Bursons on those nuts/ bolts/washer rotating racks. Some kits just have the studs, others have stud 7 nut. I'll measure one up exactly for you, when next in the shed later today. Cheers Banjo

I think I've got some 1/4" drive metric sockets someplace in "the shed". Good suggestion. I'll try that Si. Cheers Banjo

I walked into Bursons Browns Plains Qld, yesterday afternoon & ordered an EM30 extractor manifold gasket. The guys there rang the supplier to make sure they were in stock. 1:00pm today, the gasket arrived. It's a Durapro brand with full P/N GSEM30D and is described as Extractor Gasket Toyota 4. The manufacturing batch date was 20/12/2010. Best thing was the price. $ 12.30. Don't know if that included courier charge, or not, but I don't think so. Maybe they just like me because I'm a regular there. I'm not complaining. I hate fitting those 2 piece thin ACL ones, although it is a bit easier when you fit all studs & get rid of the manifold bolts. They tend to wear the aluminium threads out in the head after a while, if you're changing the gasket regularly. Trying to obtain those narrow brass manifold nuts & heavy washers is always difficult. Finished up getting them at an engineering Nuts & Bolts place for 40c ea. Bargain ! Picked up some S.S. thick washers at Bunnings. Done ! Only thing i need now is a narrow walled 14mm socket, or get an ordinary 14mm socket turned down to make it easier to do the manifold nuts up, with a 1/2" drive extension & ratchet. It gets a bit tight in there & you are working blind. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jeff, That's the first time I've heard of that one. Good one to keep in mind. Cheers Banjo

Hi, Your car is looking so sweet, especially now with the ROH wheels. Now it really has an "Aussie" connection. I am just so envious. It would be so cool to own a Rolla in Australia with LH drive & cruise around. I once drove a hire car in the USA, and the LHD experience was one I'll never forget. (neither did the other US drivers who shared the roads with me that week) The ROH wheels were very big here in Australia, & we refer to them as Hot Wires. They are still popular. Here is a company in Oz specialising in them. http://www.nealewheels.com.au/ Keep us up to date with your progress with your KE20. We are "luvin" it. Would love to see some photos of the interior of your stock US KE20, to see if it was very different to our KE20s out here. Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, Lovely KE35 you have there. I just love that model, & yours looks a picture. Your comment makes me think you have a problem other than just suspension & shocks. Have you checked the universal joints ? To check whether a constant vibration is in the drive line or a wheel / suspension problem, through the car, throw the gearbox into neutral when going down a hill, when there is no one in front or behind you. If the vibration is less, then the problem could well be in the drive line. (diff, tailshaft or gearbox.) If the vibration doesn't change, then it probably is wheels or suspension. Check the rear gearbox rubber mount. They are known to shear, if they are very olde, and have had a lot of oil on them. Even check front enging mounts, particularly the one under the exhaust manifold, which are known to crack & get brittle, as I'm not sure whether the KE35 had a metal heat shield fitted to the mount. Splitting the problem into one area or the other, will narrow down where to look for the problem. Cheers Banjo P.S. Another area you should check is the rear wheel bearings. Common problem on K series. Jack each wheel up one at a time & & turn by hand or run in 2nd or 3 gear. If the bearing is gone, you'll hear it.

Hi Charles, Is the car drivable, or does it just sit there & whine when you let the clutch out ? There are two spline sizes for the K series clutch plates. 19 spline & 21 spline. Strangley, you can easily get the 21 spline pressure plate to go over the gearbox spigot shaft with 19 teeth, but it usually just sits there and makes a horrible whining noise when you try to drive off. The other problem that sometimes occurs is the pressure plate outer housing just touches the inside of the bell housing, making a clicking / whining noise. Not all after market pressure plates have the same outside profile. It can be a problem if you have swapped flywheels, or say fitted a 5 speed gearbox. Let us know what you find. Cheers Banjo

Found these Corolla blanks on ebay http://www.ebay.com....=item19d2d81578

Hi Paul, Found this thread on Club-K website forum in NZ that appears to answer your question in the affirmative. http://www.club-k.co...d.php?tid=17646 Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, My posted picture above was not of my car unfortunately. (I used to have a KE20 while living overseas years ago) It was a photo I found on the internet whilst researching your query. Some other RC members who have KE20s may be able to answer your query more accuately. I'll keep my eyes open to see if I can't help solve your problem. Cheers Banjo

Hi Paul, Is this the item you are talking about ? Cheers Banjo

Hi beam has just gone in my KE30, and now I can only get high beam by holding the stalk back in the "Flash" position. The problem, as always, is the switch, which invaribale have contact problems with the high current that passes through them by design. I'll fix it properly this time by putting in lighting relays, so that the swich only handles the lower relay current. I've replaced the combination switch assemblies before in other Rollas I've had, only to find they also fail not long after. I've noticed aftermarket ones on ebay from several on-line stores, including Phil's Rotary here in Brisbane, who I've bought items from previously. Just wondering if any one has purchased & used these aftermarket light combination switches before, and what the quality of them is like. Any feedback would be appreciated. Cheers Banjo P.S. Does anyone know if Toyota still sell them, and if so, what they cost.

Hi Starski, Nice looking Hilux. Feel at home here. Lots of us pinch bits off Hilux utes and upgrade our Corollas. Calipers, MC etc. I reckon your Dad's on the right track. Sounds like it's running very lean. The other place you can get a vaccum leak is between the carby bottom flange & the manifold. Another culprit is the inlet flange between manifold & the head. Just check to see if all the nuts & bolts between manifold & head are tight. Sometimes if there is a leak there, you can just tighten the manifold bolts & nuts up, but if it has been leaking for a while, you are better unbolting the manifold, cleaning both surfaces & installing a new gasket. Cheers Banjo

As you put new plugs into it only 100-200 klms ago, and that improved it, you have a perfect chance now, to remove the plugs and inspect them for condition & colour. The state of plug tip & centre insulator can tell you a lot abot the state of each cylinder. Make sure you label them 1-4 front to rear, so you can relate condition to a particular cylinder. There are plenty of websites with info as to what causes the plugs to deteriorate. Here is one such website. http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp Cheers Banjo

Wow Mark ! 39 Replies & 548 Views to this post & thread. I kept coming back to it like a "Who Dunit Movie" to see what the end result was. Glad it is all sorted out ! We are all the wiser now. There is always a reason; it's just a matter of determining what it is. Cheers Banjo

Here's a regular member of RollaClub selling off some lowering blocks for a KE. Maybe you could PM him and ask the dimensions. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65716-lowering-blocks-and-u-bolts-1-12-inch-suit-ke-corolla/page__pid__655042#entry655042 Good luck ! Cheers Banjo