Banjo

After telling you that all last night I quickly removed the fuse marked "LIGHTER" in my KE55 coupe this morning, to make sure that the couresty light & clock stopped. Nope ! Found that when I removed fuse called "TAIL LIGHTS" the clock & couresty lights went out, so obviously my Gregorys 184 manual is different to the car I've got. I'll have to do a bit more testing at the weekend, to see what each fuse powers. I note your Corolla is a 1984 KE70, so maybe the wiring is different again in those. Anyway, best suggestion is to remove all fuses one at a time & check with a test lamp, and I'm pretty sure you'll find it's one of them, as it is no coincidence that couresty lights & clock both stopped together. :jamie:

Hey ! I just had a quick look at the wiring diagram, and surprise, surprise; the clock & the courtesy light are both powered off the same fuse, which could explain why you have neither working. The fuse panel is usually just under the drivers dash. Even if the fuses look all intack, take out the fuse, bend the fuse holding clips back together & reinsert fuse. Swap a fuse, as sometimes they look OK, but have a fine break. The cigarette lighter is the only other thing on that fuse. If you find the lighter doesn't work, then power from the fuse block is probably the cause. Let us know how you go. I love Tamworth. :jamie:

Nice picture Fook ! What website did you see that one on ? I showed it to my little KE55 this morning in the garage, and she says, when she grows up, she wants to look like that ! :jamie:

I think Teddy loves DENSO spark plugs ! :)

If you think iridium plugs are dear, try buying a pair of double platinum plugs for "waste spark" systems, where the one coil powering two spark plugs results in the spark jumping from the centre to outer in one plug & from the outer to centre in the other. Some manufacturers produce the same plug in two different models. One has centre platinum electrode & the other an outer platinum electrode. This cuts down the amount of platinum required per plug, in that only one electrode is platinum. So in a 4 cylinder waste spark system where firing would be 1 & 4, & then 2 & 3, plugs 1 & 2 would use one model of plug & 4 & 3 would use the other other model. Confusing ? Here are a good couple of links that describe the waste spark & platinum plugs very well. Double Platinum Spark Plugs Waste Spark Explained

Here is a good link, which explains and answers many of the questions, user of spark plugs find a mystery. Read the FAQ on the top RHS of the page. NGK Spark Plugs ! :)

The question is "4WD Which one is good ? This one ! :( :D :lolcry:

Good one Teddy ! From experience give yourself a whole day to take it out, and another whole day to put it back in, if you are doing it for the first time. They are very frustrating, and as Teddy says, it's easy to break things, if you try to force them. The consolation is there are dashboards that are much much more difficult than the KE70. I once had to remove a RA40 Celica dash completely to replace a heater radiator coil. I still have nightmares about that ! Good luck !

I've been after a new vacuum guage, and have missed a few lately on eBay. Tonight I typed in "vacuum guage" in the search engine, as usual, and came up with this beaut little tune up kit. Vacuum Guage - ebay Trouble is, I can't quite work out which part of my 4K-C to attach it to. Can any one help ! It even says They must think it's so good, one of the other mechanics at work will want to steal it ! :( :D :lolcry:

I'd make him an offer, but it hasn't got a radiator. :( :D :lolcry: I know a lady with seven kids and she's got a saucepan than feeds the lot, that's not as big as that one upside down on top of the carby. I'd be worried about rebuilding it, incase a snake appeared out of the thermostat housing hose :lolcry: :D :D

KE-10 R.I.P. KE-10 at Peace ! :( :D :lolcry: :lolcry: * kneels on one knee & says a prayer *

Oh well Mikey. It will probably finish up in Holland or somewhere remote. Finland ? :)

You are spot on Jamie. The clutch driven plate comes in 19 spline (4speed) & 21 spline for the mid to later (5speed) The pressure plates are pretty much interchangeable, except for some of the very early 2K & 3K motors, which had different mounting bolt spacings for the pressure plate. :)

No Fook ! I don't think it drifts. It just goes in a straight line: . . . . . very swiftly. With those big lower front defectors, it suggests to me, it might just land on water very easily. I'm just fascinated by the pictures & the amount of engineering that has gone into it. Anyway, I'm off to the garage now, "to sharpen the mower blades" and clean up & see if I can't come acoss a jet engine, I'd forgotten I had. :)

For those of you who might not have seen this link in Toymods, to a guy in the USA who has too much money or something . . . . You won't believe this ! I love the bit about it being street legal. I'd love to see the face of one our boys in blue, as I pass him on the Logan motorway @ say 150 clicks. Jet Powered MR-2 Toyota on eBay :)

What about "com-od-o" * washes mouth out* sorry Rob ! :)

I don't feel too bad for me. I picked up on eBay yesterday; a brand new High Performance ignition coil worth about $ 80.00 for $ 30.00, and a new powered timing light kit, with compression tester & automotive multimeter for just $ 19.00, both here in Brisbane, so I could pick up without paying postage. Whoopee ! :) :n: :fuzz:

Don't know whether, any of you were watching this eBay item over the last few days. Cars like this rarely come up, even on eBay. One lady owner, 2,000 odd klms per year for 25 years. Absolutely immaculate ! Just down the road at Port Macquarie. A gem of a KE-55 I thought the car would probably bring about $ 2,000 to a serious buyer, but when at 7 minutes to close of auction there was only 3 bids & it was $ 1,050, I thought I might be in with a chance. A quick word over washing up with better half, and it was on. I set myself a limit of $ 1,500, and had it for a while, only to be sniped in the dying seconds, by a completely new bidder, who took it for $ 1575.00, although I'll never know what his/her maximum proxy bid was. Anyway, you win some, you lose some. I had a quick look at the feedback on the auction winner, and it appears he is an international seller of classic & vintage cars to buyers & sellers all over the world. I'm glad to see that even the experts recognise the value of good olde rollas. It'll probably finish up being shipped to the USA or elsewhere, where it will sell for 3 times that price. At least it will always carry that little plate that says it was made by AMI in Australia. It would have looked so good with my 5K & 5 speed g/box on board. sob sob sob sob sob

I asked my family, but no one can remember what my first word/s were, althought they probably had something to do with food. They did however remember, that I used to push my little sister around in a stroller & manage to tip her over, presumably whilst try to make the stroller drift ! :)

That's got to be the story of the week so far ! Arh ! . . . . . But did you utter it with a Japanese accent ? Anyone top that ? :)

Step 1 before taking gearbox off. Remove clutch cable from end of clutch lever fork on the side of the gearbox. (Pretty easy job) Remove rubber boot carefully, as unless it is fairly new, it could tear & fall apart. Get a little trouble lamp, or old headlight bulb soldered to a couple of wires across battery, and put it inside bellhousing & have a good look around. If gearbox was removed only 12 months ago, then inside of bellhousing should have been cleaned at the time, by your mechanic. Check carefully for oil. It is not unknown for the front gearbox mainshaft oil seal to go,and gearbox oil to enter bellhousing, whereafter it gets spread around like jam. If driven clutch plate is breaking down, there could also be signs of fibrish stuff all over the inner bellhousing. Good luck ! Ultimately, the gearbox is going to have to come out, if the clutch is slipping, but a few minutes spend investigating will sometimes give you a clearer idea of what to expect, & plan accordingly. Good source of new clutch parts is eBay. I recently picked up & brand new KE55 clutch repair kit which included clutch plate, clutch driven plate & throw out bearing for $ 15.50 + $ 12.50 freight.

You are never too old for a billy cart ! Wish I had one of those when I was a kid. :D

Fook, I'll see if I can't sketch out a wiring diagram of how to wire the headlight system up I have got/modified, and post it. Can't do it at the moment as I am at work and the boss is watching ! My Boss :P My Boss when he's cranky :P :dance:

I'm with Xany. The way Toyota wire up their headlights in the K series is wierd. From what I've worked out, most of the problems seem to be in the light switch unit on the steering column. There's lots of little contacts in there, and close inspection shows that some are carrying a lot of current, which doesn't figure when there is a relay to do all that work. Appears the headlight relay is only for LOW BEAD. The HI BEAM is switched via the stork switch directly without a relay. There is a seperate contact for HI BEAM indicator (blue light) & HI BEAM lights, and HI BEAM flasher, in the switch itself. All very confusing. I found all this out when I lost HI BEAM altogether, but HI BEAM still worked on the HI BEAM flasher. I solved problem by installing a dual relay from SuperAutoCheap and swapping around a couple of wires in the light switch so the lights work in a more conventional wiring manner. The dual light relay has fuses built in. Mount the dual relay up close to the battery & run wires to fusible link & Hi & Lo beams. Result: cuts down the usual voltage drops, as power lighting circuit is relatively short. Oh, my lights are brighter now !!! :P

Sorry Fook ! Too busy reading the substance to notice the heading ! Anyway, wouldn't go astray on our site. :P