Banjo

Hi Asiri, There is a new after market Rollmaster 3K chain on ebay at present. http://www.ebay.com....=item1e8eaa6f07 I've used the 3K Rollmaster on my 4K & 5K engines, as they were better than the single row chain on the later K series engines. Always a good idea to replace the hydraulic chain tensioner at the same time. You can usually find after market ones for the 3K on ebay also. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jack, Yes altezzaclub is spot on. Only real difference between looms could be what type of alternator was originally fitted to your KE30. If it originally had a Denso unit with external regulator box on the drivers side inner guard, then there will be a few extra wires between alternator & regulator. You can fit a Bosch alternator with internal regulator, but you will then need to remove regulator box & bridge two wires together, so the alternator warning light on your dash works. There is a post here somewhere on this forum, about which two wires to join. Cheers Banjo

Hi Kai, Here is the part of the wiring circuit you should be looking at. All tail lights, front parkers & licence plate lights at the rear are fed via the 15A "TAIL" fuse & the lighting relay. The dash board lights are fed from the same source. If your tail lights and parkers are working, then the fuse & relay are working OK. If the dashboard lights are not working, it is most likely you have lost a main earth connection for the dash. Off memory it is a "white" wire, or a "white" wire with a black tracer line on it. The tail lights & parkers are earthed seperately, so that's why I think it is a common dash earth wire you've lost. Hope that helps. Let's know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Kai, There are only three (3) backlight globes on the KE30 dash. One either side of the speedo, and one to the lower right of the fuel guage. The one on the RHS of the speedo serves to light the temp guage. It is highly unlikely you have lost an earth, because the other warning lights are working. Does you fuel guage work, as it shares an earth with the dash backlight globes ? It sounds to me like there is an o/c on the printed circuit board on the back of the dash assembly. The trackwork is "narrowed" in some areas, so that it acts as a fuse if a bulb goes s/c. Have a close look at the pcb track work between each of the three (3) back ligh bulbs. There are three narrowing of the tracks. Cheers Banjo

Hi Kai, Are you using LED replacement globes by any chance. If so, then the ones that are not working could be back to front, as they are polarised, whereas a normal globe is not. If they are LED globes, then take the ones out that are not working & rotate them 180 deg, and they should work. Cheers Banjo.

When you changed the alternator, was it with another Denso ? Did you change the external regulator also ? The warning light works quite differently from the Bosch unit to the Denso unit. If you changed the alternator, but not the regulator, that would be my first bet. Try changing the alternator regulator & see if that fixes it. Cheers Banjo

Hi Odin, Does your KE35 have a Denso or a Bosch alternator fitted ? If Denso, is it one with an external relay regulator box ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Josh, More than likely to be the combo switch on the steering column. Well known weak point. I presume you have high beam, but no low beam ? Give me a yell, and I'll look up the KE70 wiring diagram & see if I can work out exactly where the problem could be. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jose, Which model Pertronix module did you fit to your 3K distributor ? Was it the original Ignitor, or Ignitor II, or the Ingnitor III ? Did you remove the distributor from the engine block, to fit the Pertronix module to it, or did you fit the module with the distributor in place / in situ ? I presume the engine was running OK, before you fitted the Pertronix module, in regard to this pinging & lack of power that you describe, and these results only occurred directly after fitting the Pertronix unit. What altitude are you living at in Costa Rica ? Early Toyota K series engines were notorious for changes in performance, as a result of altitude changes. I once had a 3K Corolla in a developing country where I drove it from a high mountainous area to the coast at sea level. The difference in preformance was enormous. I used to have to change the static timing once I got down to sea level, and visa versa when I returned home to the mountains. If you can answer my above queries, we'll see if we can assist you some more. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Guys, After starting this thread I found another thread from Evan G back in 2010 about the same subject, which was very useful. http://www.rollaclub...-insert-in-faq/ I finished up using the Pedders 22mm D bush, cat# EPB22, which works well. This bush fits a number of Ford, Holden, & a few Toyota Corona & Cressida models. Pedders have a universal bracket/saddle for this bush, cat#4246. However I found the standard KE30/55 bush can be utilsed perfectly, with a little modification. When the Pedders EPB22 bush is pressed into the KE30/55 saddle/bracket, it squeezes it ever so slighly sideways, so the bush swaybar hole dimension is about 1mm elongated, vertically 21.8mm x 20.5mm. By opening up the bracket slightly, it fits perfectly and the bush hole is perfectly round. However the bracket/saddle mounting holes then have to be elongated/filed slightly towards the bracket so that the bracket can be bolted to the subframe. There was a small gap under the D bush of 1-2mm, when it was bolted up. You could cut a small square of flat steel or aluminium to fit under the bush to take up this gap, but I found a couple of strips of double sided tape on the bottom of the bush worked well for me. You can clearly see the white strip of the tape in the photos below, Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys, Just rebushing the complete front end of my KE30 with SuperPro bushes, and got a front & rear kit for a good price off ebay. The kit did not include the swaybar pivot bush or the swaybar link bushes. The link bushes are easy to obtain, but SuperPro do not list the Swaybar bush on their website under bushes for the KE30 to KE55. Probably because there are several diameter swaybars on these models. The KE30 came with a 19mm dia. swaybar as standard. However my donor KE55 coupe has a 22mm swaybar, which I will be using instead. Does anyone know off hand the SuperPro P/N for the KE55 swaybar piviot bush for a 22mm dia. swaybar ? Cheers Banjo

These links might help a bit. http://www.rollaclub...fuse-box-cover/ http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/68673-how-to-fit-an-electric-fan/ Cheers Banjo

Here is the wiring diagram for the rewired boot area lighting. It's pretty simple, but may assist some people who want to get brighter lights. Cheers Banjo

Finally got around today, to finishing off the rewire of all the rear lights & boot area. The heavy red 60A power feed wire, (Jaycar WH-3061) runs all the way along the LHS of the KE30 from the battery to the boot area. The cable is protected by a fusible link at the up front connection to the battery. It connects directly to the 6 way fuse holder in the boot, which along with four (4) automotive 30A relays, are mounted behind the fuel tank boot panel, out of sight. There isn't a lot of room behind there, because most of the panel is almost hard up against the vertical fuel tank. There is a little room on the RHS, at the top & the bottom, at the back of the panel. This works out well, because the cable from the panel to the rear light assemblies is on the RHS. You can clearly see how it was arranged in the following pics. The 6 way fuse block I got off ebay for $ 15.00 with free postage from HK The fuse block has 6 X 10A fuses for . . . . 1. Tail & Licence Plate Lights. 2. Stop Lights 3. Reversing Lights. 4. Boot Interior Lights. 5. 12V Power Point (for compressor/trouble lamp/ice box etc.) 6. Spare Fuse & Relay Circuit. Likewise the 30A automotive relays were $ 16.00 for a set of 5 off, complete with sockets & wire tails, free postage from HK. A couple of guys have PM'd me asking for wiring diagrams. I'm currently sketching them up, and will scan & post them here once finished. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Tojo for putting me in touch with the retro JDM website. Here is the separate wiring diagram from corolla body repair manual for the indicator circuit, in my previous post. This next wiring diagram is for the tail & headlights, indicating how the full head light currents do pass through the head light "dipper" switch, despite there being a relay in circuit. You can download the full 1974 Corolla body repair manual at the Retro JDM website at http://www.retrojdm....w.asp?ScanID=31 Lots of good stuff there. Cheers Banjo

I acquired one those aftermarket steering column combo light switches. The one I purchased has the box markings as NBS101 / CS-10210. It is apparent a Nice Products model. Inspection indicated the mechanical aspects of the switch were pretty good, & it was well made. The after market unit had wire colours pretty much the same as the original Toyota unit, except a couple of wires on the “hazzard switch”. I fitted it, plugged it in, and found that everything worked except the turn indicators. I then spent a couple of hours tracing all the connections out and taking a note of the wire colours. The indicators are switched by the light switch stork, & the hazzard warning switch, which flashes all indicators together. The hazzard switch in the aftermarket unit is a little different to that in the original Toyota combo switch. However, they both work the same way. With the Hazzard switch down, the indicators work normally. When the switch is pulled “up” all indicators flash together. The problem was that the “hazzard switch” was wired up incorrectly, within the combo assembly itself. 20 minutes with a soldering iron, and I had it back the way it should have been. There was no need to add or subtract wiring, or change the pin out on the big connector that plugs into the under dash loom; just rearrange the connections on the hazzard switch itself.. The sketches below show the indicator circuitry, and the wire connections to the “hazard switch” as I modified it. _______________________________________________________________________________ The hazard switch is a bit complicated at first sight, because the turning indicators are only powered via the turn/wiper fuse, when the ignition switch is in the “run/ignition” position. However, the “alarm hazzard” must work when the ignition switch is off, so it is powered in this mode, via the stop switch fuse, which is always powered. If you have an aftermarket combo switch you have bought, that doesn’t work, then unsolder all the wires off the hazzard switch, and then resolder them, one at a time, as depicted in the sketch. I did notice that some of the original soldering in the aftermarket combo switch looked a bit suspect. Dry joints ? I pulled each wire just behind the solder connection, & one on the hi beam light switch came away very easily. I resoldered it. Certainly a wise move to check solder connections, to prevent problems later on. Only other problem I found was that the brass pin for the horn ring contact was too long, as Jay pointed out earlier in this thread. I cut about 5mm off the end of mine with a hobby hacksaw. However, make sure after cutting it, that you take a small file and some emery paper, & round the head of the brass pin, so it does not dig into the contact ring on the back of the steering wheel. If you don’t, you’ll get a noise like squealing tyres in the distance, whilst driving. I’ve had the aftermarket switch running in the car for 2 weeks now, without any issues. Trust this helps anyone who has bought an aftermarket combo switch & discarded it to the junk box, because it didn’t work.

Why the Corolla Matters ! Hi Guys, Came across this gem on the ASKMEN site in the USA. It is a review by Thomas Bey of the latest offering in the 11th Gen of the Corolla over there. I love the references to their equivalent of our KE series. You can read the full article at the following link. http://au.askmen.com...la-matters.html Cheers Banjo

From my reading aluminium "ages" just like most metals over time. A head from a K series, now 30 -40 years "olde", will soften, warp, crack, c-o-r-r-o-d-e, & become porous at times, in worst case. Imagine all those heat/cool cycles a head goes through over the life of the engine. I remember reading somewhere once how Chevy guys in the states, used to get olde chevy V8 blocks, grease then inside & out, seal them in thick plastic, & bury them in the ground for several years. Apparently this resulted in a change to the cast iron structure, that made it harder. When they dug them up, they get big bucks for them from serious performance engine rebuilders ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys, If restoring or rebuilding a Rolla, or just need a little inspiration as we all do from time to time, then this high quality video is a must see. http://engineeredtos...am-build-drive/ Grab a coffee, & sit down, and be taken on a 1 hour adventure, with it's ups & downs, that we all can relate to. I opened an email from a motoring friend last night before retiring, recommending this link. I made the coffee and started the video. After 5 minutes I said to myself, I'll watch this tomorrow, it's late, but I couldn't turn it off. An hour later I crawled into bed, the coffee almost cold, & untouched, but inspired & warm inside. Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo P.S. Check out Nigel's blog site. http://engineeredtoslide.com/blog/

Rewiring the engine bay is one of the best things you can do for your Rolla. The original design leaves a lot to be desired, with undersized wiring in some places, high currents passing through light switches, and high currents running backwards and forwards through switches & relays, from the dashboard to the front of the car. Positioning of existing relays in the system, also could have been better. The best layout is to have all wiring carrying high currents to be as short as possible. That reduces voltage drops, which are the bane of automotive electrical systems. Relays associated with these high loads, should be as close to the battery & load as possible. I finished up getting completely rid of the original wiring harness in the engine bay, altogether. It looks so much cleaner. The wiring that runs back to the dash, is fed through the reinforcing channel in the upper under mudguard area and is completely out of sight. I have a main substantial battery feed to the new fuse boxes on each side, in front of the strut towers. From there the 12 volt power feed goes back to the under dash fuse block, via the little gap in the top of the strut towers on the drivers side. On the passengers side, similarly, going all the way back to the boot area, via the area in behind the kick panel & the plastic door opening foot cover strip. The results have been fantastic ! Brighter headlights, easier starting, louder horn. Also helped by the upgrade to an 85 amp alternator, & the associated wiringing between alternator & battery. After all, it's the alternator that supplies the power to keep running. The battery is really only there to start the engine. The first I had to do was move the ignition coil. That was easy, using the existing bracket and some mount points on the base of the drivers strut tower, directly opposite the dizzy, and under the master cylinder. The secret of doing a rewire is to unwrap the tape around the existing wiring harness, then cut and pull back one wire & circuit at a time. You won't believe how many factory joins & crimps there are, inside the original factory harness hidden by the tape. Don't chop it off at the fire wall. Here a few pictures that gives you an idea of how it all looks & works. I'm currently sketching up the wiring diagram for each of these circuits. I find those "rats nest" wiring diagrams in manuals a pain to follow. It's so much easier to understand, if each circuit is drawn separately. Alternator circuit; starting circuit; head light circuit; horn circuit; flasher circuit, etc. If anyone is interested, give me a yell & I'll scan them and post them on here. Cheers Banjo

JOESEPH ! (the original Weet-Bix MAN) Cheers Banjo

I think the block of wooden between the crank & the block wall is how we all do it ! Cheers Banjo

I read this post, because I'm also interested in putting in a new canister from another car that's smaller than the original. I had a close look at the existing one that's mounted up just behind the battery on the battery hold down bracket on my KE55. It has the two (2) hoses on the top clearly maked "to tank" & "purge" which connects to the outside base of the carby. There is also a hose directly out the middle underside of the cannister that goes through a grommet into the chassis rail directly below the cannister. I presume this is some sort of final overpressure bypass if the cannister becomes blocked & doesn't release the fuel tank pressure. Can anyone confirm what this third line does ? Cheers Banjo

I read this post, because I'm also interested in putting in a new canister from another car that's smaller than the original. I had a close look at the existing one that's mounted up just behind the battery on the battery hold down bracket on my KE55. It has the two (2) hoses on the top clearly maked "to tank" & "purge" which connects to the outside base of the carby. There is also a hose directly out the middle underside of the cannister that goes through a grommet into the chassis rail directly below the cannister. I presume this is some sort of final overpressure bypass if the cannister becomes blocked & doesn't release the fuel tank pressure. Can anyone confirm what this third line does ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Reed, I'll look into that tomorrow. Cheers Banjo