Banjo

You can fuse them separately after the single pole relay if you need to. However, if you want to place the fuses before switching them on with a relay, then you need a 12Vdc 2 pole N.O. or 2 pole changeover relay. Cheers Banjo

Is there any specific reason why you cannot feed data logger & wide band from the same source ? Once the twin relay you describe is closed, they will be connected together. Just join the 12V feeds to those devices, & connect that connection to a ordinary 5 pin auto relay, as suggested. Cheers Banjo

A very helpful guy called Michael at Toyota Sydney City Parts, did a serach for me for the O ring for the 5KC distributor. He came up with the Genuine Toyota P/N 90099-14090. Armed with this info, I have found that this part number repaces O Rings with P/Ns 90099-14020 & 90099-14106. This O Ring is also referred to in a number of parts lists as P/N 19007A. (Probably a discontinued number) Anyway, he also discovered that there was just 1 off 90000-14090 in Australia. i had him send it to me, and it arrived in the mail today. It's dimensions are 27.9mm OD and cross sectional (CS) dia. of 2.9mm. Basically it's a 28mm X 3.0mm O Ring, if you are buying a generic one. It has a very shiny finish, almost like plastic, and does not look or feel like the regular rubber aftermarket O rings. These can be ordered through any Toyota parts outlet by that part number. Hope that info is useful to someone. Cheers Banjo

Weak spark can be caused by several things. Resistance in the primary circuit wiring. If the points are worn or "olde", then replace them. Disconnect capacitor to see if that improves things. If it does, in means it has electrically broken down inside, and should be replaced. Check battery voltage under starting conditions. Battery could be weak and getting old. Check ignition voltage to the supply end of ballast resistor & coil with multimeter, with points open & closed. If the voltage drops substantially with points closed, when current is flowing in primary of the coil, then it could mean a high resistance fuse or wiring on the ignition supply. Could even be the ignition switch. Quick test is to run a temporary "thick" wire from battery +Ve to coil and see if spark improves. On the secondary HV side of the coil thare are lots of things that can break down to the HV, & result in weak spark. Break down on the coil top itself. Break down of HV leads, or O/C HV leads. Break down inside the dizzy cap. Spring & carbon bush in top of dizzy. Very dirty spark plugs. Any thing that fails or has detoriated on the HV side should be replaced. As "Altezzaclub" says, measure the primary & secondary resistances of the coil, or take it to an auto electrician who can test it dynamically. A very good way to find leakage or breakdowns in the HV side is to try & start the car in the pitch dark, or even run it in the pitch dark. You then can clearly see "coronas" of HV break down, dancing over leads etc. that are impossible to see in day light. Hope something in there helps you solve your issue. Cheers Banjo

Hi Kirill, If your Rolla is fitted with a "points" distributor, then there will always/should be a capacitor or condensor in parallel to the points. Read Primary Circuit paragraph http://classicmechan...3/ignition.html These are normally fitted inside the distributor, or as in most of the Nippon Denso & Bosch dizzies fitted to Rollas, it is attached to the outside of the distributor case, close to the terminal. However, it could be connected to the negative terminal of the coil, which is also connected to the points. This might have been done, because an available replacement was a different shape or size, and couldn't easily be attached at the dizzy. Does you points distributor have a capacitor/condensor at the dizzy ? If the capacitor/condensor was on the positive terminal of the coil, it could well be an interference filter, to prevent ignition interference with the radio. Cheers Banjo

Got one from Bursons today, over the counter for a dollar each. I bought 4, so I've got a couple of spares. It's about 26.4mm OD, with a CS dia of about 3.4mm. Stretched it slightly over the helica gear, as suggested, then rolled it up into the groove. I put some high temp wheel bearing grease in the O ring slot, and a smear over the exposed O ring, after it was seated in the slot. Fitted it to the block, and it is a nice tight seal, which still allows the dizzy to turn easily, when setting the initial timing. No more oil leak. Cheers Banjo

I've got a KE30 with the heater pipe feeding hot water from the back of the head, which is the hottest part of the engine. That why if you burn a valve, it will usually be in no: 4 cylinder. My heater works perfectly. However, from experience, the amount of build up inside the water system, in small pipes, where there are small flows, can be enormous on a 40 year old car, with low klms, that may never have had the head off. I've taken that plate off the back of a 3K head before, and it was almost totallly blocked & corroded. I've even seen rubber heater hoses, that you'd be hard pressed putting a 4mm drill down. Cheers Banjo

I think I've found one. RAE make a whole selection, especially for distributors. http://rae.com.au/pr...or-o-ring-kits/ There's one there which is 27mm x 3.5mm CS dia. which should be pretty close. Burson's are there agents, so I'll call into my local Browns Plains store & get them to get a few in for me. I actually did just as you suggested, & prised it out with a very small screwdriver, so I could measure it. It cracked in half, even though I was careful. It was very hard & brittle. In fact, when I have a close look at it, I'll swear it is not rubber. It looks more like plastic, unless it's changed it's composition over many years of heat. It's so hard, it wouldn't seal anything. I'll let you know if the RAE one is the go. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Guys ! i might try that. I did find this website in NZ, but it doesn't cross reference the O rings to particular distributors; just makes. http://www.cdlautopa... April 2012.pdf pages 6 - 19 A quick measurement, without cutting the O ring out of the groove, indicates it is about 27mm OD, 23mm ID, and cross sectional dia about 4mm. I presume the best way to fit the O ring is to remove the helical gear at the base of shaft, and roll the O ring up the tapered section on the boss, that Denso have kindly provided. Cheers Banjo

I was playing around last night, experimenting with a 5K Denso distributor which I have locked up the "flying spring weights", to act as a trigger for a electronic ignition control, without advance. All went well, and with a very basic advance curve mapped in, the 4K-U fired up immediately, & ran OK. However, after about 20 minutes of playing, I noticed that engine oil was trickling down the side of the block under the dizzy, as so many of us are accustomed to, when we clean the engine. The O ring on the base of the distributor was leaking, helped in no way by the slight +ve pressure in the crankcase. Like most K series distributors, the O ring has gone hard and flat over the years. I've had a quick look on the web this morning looking for a source of these rubber O rings, but can't easily find one. I assumed as the hole in the block is a standard size, & both Nippondenso & Bosch dizzys both fit, that the O rings would be a common part. However, when I pull out an old Bosch unit I have here, I notice the Denso O ring groove is wider. The Denso dizzy I have has the following model number info on the sticker on the side. Toyota 19060-13100 5KC 100291-1340 DENSO Does anyone know the P/N for this rubber O ring, and where you can readily get them ? If anyone has any part numbers for the O ring on the Bosch dizzy, that would probably be very useful info also. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matt, What's your budget for an ignition control system ? The MSD CDI unit will set you back $ 500 +. The specs you need for your worked 3K are fairly basic, so you may find a more basic ignition controller like an older Haltech unit will suffice. Try ebay & Gumtree. You might be surprised what is out there. Just make sure they come with a loom. Everyone on this forum will have their own preference as to brand. P.S. My personal choice would be to not go CDI, as you need very high quality HV leads & seperation. You can get cross fire with them if the setup is not perfect, as a result of the very high voltages CDIs generate. Mainly happens on V8s where the spark plug leads lie side by side. The great advantage of using late model ignition controllers is the awesome graphics of the setup & real-time software that comes with them with their virtual dashboards. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matt, You've spent some serious $$$ on your little old 3K. Are you planning to drive it to the track or hill climbs, or will it be "trailered" to events ? It's probably not going to be too happy about running around town in race trim setup ! If you've spent all those $$$ on the engine, & carbies. you should probably provide it with a good programable ignition system, to get the most out of it. You have lots of options for a N.A. engine without turbo. You should do a bit of research on the net. You can easily pay up to $ 2K+ for very up-to-date ignition controllers with software, but you could probably find an older Haltech, or similar device second hand on the net, that will do the trick. If you are so inclined, you could save a lot of dough, and have a lot of fun putting together a kit controller from Megasquirt or the local Jaycar electronic ignition kit. These will handle your 3K very well. Alternatively, as basically, you only need advance control, you could just get your 5K dizzy recurved for starters, as Parrot originally suggested. Let us know which way you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Matt, Tell us what you plan for your 3K race engine, in terms of . . . . specs ? cam ? carby or injection ? compression ? head work / valves ? exhaust ? etc. and we will throw you a few ideas. Where are you located ? Who are Goldbys ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Matt, Like Parrot advised, you really don't need the vacuum advance/retard when you are racing. However, to answer your query, the port on the end of the vacuum actuator part of the dizzy (horizontal) is the port that connects to your carby vacuum. I think the one on top (vertical), is only to port the actuator to atmosphere. Someone can correct me if I'm wrong. You're right that the 5K dizzy was a bit sluggish, as it was used by Toyota on commercial vehicles & forklifts. The best way to use the 5K dizzy is to lock it up, and then feed the fixed trigger signal, without vacuum advance\retard into a programable electronic ignition controller, where you can adjust the advance curve to your hearts content. The electronic advance will always be more responsive that the spring loaded advance weights in the bottom of the dizzy. Locking up the dizzy is not hard. I actually did one at the weekend. Just remove the springs & advance floating weights & then lock the top & bottom plates together with a couple of little metal bars with a hole in each end. I sealed/connected the plates to the pins with a big blob of Araldite. There was no movement at all. Make sure you have the dizzy shaft & base together, (as if the springs were pulling them together / no advance) I found it easier to remove the complete shaft from the dizzy. Just drill out the pin through the helical cog & shaft at the bottom. Refit afterwards using a 5mm roll pin. The 5K dizzy came in two (2) forms. One with "reluctor" trigger sensor only, which fed an external ignitor to drive the coil. The other has an inbuilt ignitor connected directly to the coil -ve terminal). This model with inbuilt ignitor is simple to connect to an electronic ignition controller. Just connect the black wire that goes to the coil, to a 100 ohm 5 watt resistor (from Jaycar) and tie the other end to your 12V ignition supply to the coil. This will then give you a nice fixed switched 12V signal to drive/trigger which ever ignition controller you fancy. Cheers Banjo

Hi Lachie, Any chance that the alarm system that was removed, had an immobiliser relay or such, that cut out the ignition, & prevented the car from starting, if it was broken into ? That could explain why no power out of the ignition barrel & to the coil. Was the alarm system removed very recently, or has it been running perfectly for some time since it's removal ? Cheers Banjo.

Hi Lachie, Without knowing more about your car engine setup, as to whether it is standard carby & ignition, or otherwise, I'll have a stab in the dark & suggest you've lost power to the fuel cut-off valve built into the carby. This cuts fuel off to the carby, as soon as you switch the ignition off. If you get someone to turn the ignition on & off, (not start it) you should be able to hear it clicking, if you put your ear down close. If no tick, then unplug wire & test for power with a multimeter of test light. Cheers Banjo.

That's one of Murphy's Laws. "The day or week after you throw something away, that you've had for ages, you will have a need for it". Trouble is, you finish up with no shed space left. Cheers Banjo

Hi Madis, I don't think you'd be the first one to have a burnt out fuse box. The net search indicates it is quite frequent. Is your KE70 left hand drive ? I heard last year, that they are now allowing RHD cars to be registered in Estonia now after some EU ruling. Does your fuse box look like this ? Unfortunately, I'm into KE30-KE55s, which are different, but someone here may have a spare one, they are prepared to post to you, to get a fellow Rolla enthusiast out of trouble. Post a picture of your box in situ if you can. It's a bugger of a place to work on that kick panel area, if you are large. I had a kinked neck for a week after rewiring my KE30 in that area. Cheers Banjo

Good one Will ! Glad you were able to fix it. Welcome aboard ! Cherrs Banjo

Finally got around to fitting the sensor to the timing chain cover at the weekend. Simply removed the camshaft sprocket, & drilled a small hole in one of the "spokes" of the sprocket. There is plenty of meat in the casting at those points. I used a rare earth magnet 10mm in dia. & 25mm long. Determine which is north pole, & which is south pole, & mark accordingly, as the Hall Effect sensor I used, (Honeywell model SR3F-A1) is unipolar, and only operates to a south pole. South Pole must face out to the front of the sprocket. I liberally coated the hole & the magnet with Araldite, and ensured the face of the south pole was flush with the front outer face of the sprocket. Magnets are also available in a "screw in" package in plastic or metal case. This might work well, as it doesn't require Araldite to hold it in. "Loctite only". Only disadvantage is the magnetic strength of these smaller magnets, will probably require a smaller gap between pole face & sensor. I used another cover off a 4K or 5K instead of the original 3K one, so simply ground the "ribs" off the inner side of the casting and drilled a hole for the sensor (14mm) There is quite a good thickess of metal in the timing chain cover, so for permanent use on a road car, I would tap the hole (M14 x 1.0), and only use the outer locknut, so the sensor could be removed without removing cover, if the Hall Effect sensor ever needed to be replaced. The sensor has a threaded barrel & lock nuts, so it's distance between sensing face & magnet south face can be adjusted. I hooked up the sensor to an LED, so I could see it switch, when the engine was rotated. The sensor reliably switched with gaps of 1mm to 10mm, so I set it at 5mm. I had previously tested the sensor on the bench with an oscilloscope, and it produced a very clean sharp pulse about 1.2m/S wide at around 5200 rpm. I think I read in the specs, that they are good to about 100kHz, so speed is not an issue. This sensor should provide a very reliable "synch" signal for any after market ECU, requiring one. Unlike the crankshaft pulley ones, it is hidden away, fully protected, and is guaranteed operation up to 125 deg C. I will fit one to my road car next time I have the radiator out, and hook it up to a simple tacho for a month or two, to see how it performs long term, before trying it with my Haltech E6K. ____________________________________________________________________________ I did learn that all 3K/4K/5K sumps mounting holes & timing chain covers are not identical. The 3K sump's very two front flange mounting holes, (one on each side), do not line up with the timing chain cover from the 4K or 5K I used. Cheers Banjo

Good luck Phil ! Leaving sunny Queensland ? Keep in touch on here, and let us know what you are up to. Reminds me of an olde Black Adder saying . . . "I've got a plan so cunning, you could put a tail on it and call it a weasel !" Cheers Banjo

We all wait, wondering what the "next project" will be. After the the 4K with twin overhead cam head, I can't imagine how that will be trumped. But that's what the car with engine was sold for, . . . . . the next project ? ? ? What a thread ! ! ! I've read it several times; all 6 pages. Cheers Banjo

Just a stock one mate ! Cheers Banjo

I was assembling a 3K on the bench at the weekend, & thought I take a few pictures of the fitment aligning marks for the timing chain, that might help those new to K Series engines, or that don't have a factory workshop manual. Getting this wrong, can cause great heartache, especially if you've assembled the engine & refitted it to the car, only to find, you've got it wrong. A dizzy fitted incorrectly, is easy to rectify, but a timing chain "refit", can be very frustrating. The camshaft & crankshaft must be in a precise postion, when the sprockets & chain are fitted. Toyota have provided some markings, which must line up. The crankshaft sprocket must be in the postion with no:1 & no:4 pistons being at TDC (top dead centre). The keyway for crankshaft sprocket should be at 12:00 o'clock. ie: vertical, with the engine horizontal. There is a small mark at about 5:00 o'clock, which I have marked with "whiteout" for these photos to make it a bit clearer. You can just see the "dot" in the pic above. The camshaft has two sets of markings. The location pin on the end of the camshaft that engages with the camshaft sprocket, must line up with the camshaft thrust plate alignment marker. Ensure the camshaft thrust plate is not fitted upside down, if you haven't already fitted the timing chain cover "back plate". The thrust plate is not synmetrical, as is shown in the pic above. These two markings are obscured, once the camshaft sprocket is fitted. The camshaft sprocket has a small mark at about 11 o'clock. The timing chain can usually be fitted with the crankshaft sprocket already fitted to the crankshaft, as long as the chain anti-vibration plate has not been fitted. The factory manual depicts two links on the chain 180 deg apart which are a different "colour", to aid in getting the next step right. Lay the chain out stretched with the chain in a straight line & mark two links, one at each end (white out). Fit the chain over the crankshaft sprocket, with one marked chain link lining up with the dot on the crankshaft sprocket at 5:00 o'clock. Fit the camshaft sprocket to the spretched chain so that the dot at 11:00 o'clock lines up with the other marked link. Taking care not to dislodge the camshaft position, the camshaft sprocket can then be located on the end of the camshaft, with the locating pin. Everything being OK, you should be able to hold a ruler or straight edge across the centre points of the camshaft & crankshaft, and the two markings on both sprockets should line up, as per the photo below. Slip the timing chain cover on, just using the location pins. With crankshaft key fitted, slip on the crankshaft pully. The TDC timing mark on the pulley should line up with 0 deg on the cover timing marks. The only proviso with this technique, is that if fitting a brand new chain, you may have to fit chain & both sprockets at the same time, as there may not be enough sideways flexibility in the chain. Cheers Banjo

Like the idea of the welch plug ! Yes, I must clean that area up, before I take the engine off the test stand, & into the car. I note you have'nt used the clamp to hold down, (what's left of the distributor boss), in place. Is it wedged in the hole ? Cheers Banjo