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Banjo

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Everything posted by Banjo

  1. What a wonderful story, and a great car. It definitely has a value, & would sell, with a low mileage like that, for a Corolla getting on towards 40 years olde. It's value is really what someone is prepared to pay for it, if they really want it. The fact that it is still registered would make it even more attractive. These cars probably sold new at about $ 4000. There could be someone out there that might be prepared to buy it at 39 years olde for $ 4000. However, realistically, you could expect maybe $ 2000 - $ 2500. There maybe someone here on Rollaclub that may be interested, when they read your post tomorrow. The other way would be to put it up on ebay, with a realistic reserve, and then see what the "market" out there is prepared to pay. The "audience" on ebay is enormous, & you might even find an international unique or classic car buyer who is interested. Keep us posted with what you decide to do, and the outcome, as there are lots of us here on Rollaclub, that are keen to save & restore as many KEs as possible. Cheers Banjo
  2. Well there you go ! You live and learn. Every clutch cable I've ever had in a KE has had the shoulder built into the cable, so no circlip was required. I've never seen one of those before, like Springer has. Good one Altezzaclub. Problem solved. Cheers Banjo
  3. There is no circlip on the bottom of my cable. I just grabbed an old original Toyota cable from the garage & photed each end. Springers, looking at your photo of your cable poking through the bell housing flange, it looks like a different cable. If you want to remove your cable & measure it all up, I will do the same here to this one, and you can compare lengths of the sheath & cable end to end. Cheers Banjo
  4. Yeah, aftermarket stuff can be cheap, but often the quality is poor. The original KE series clutch cables had a Teflon or similar lining/coating on the cable itself, inside the outer sheath. This reduced the friction on the big bend/curve in the cable as it changes direction 180 deg down past the brake MC. Many of the after market ones don't have the Teflon coating. You can improve the uncoated ones by holding the outer sheath in a vice & slowly dripping oil down the cable, working the inner up & down, until it drips out the bottom. I have revived an old cable sucessfully that way in the past. Another way is keeping the 180 deg bend in the clutch cable rigid, so that it does move, under load. Later KE55s had a factory bracket fitted to the brake MC, that did just that. The clutch adjustment at the firewall, has always been an issue, with the circlips popping off. Many installations finish up like this. Cheers Banjo
  5. Oh clutch cables ! I think we've all struggled with clutch cable issues at some time or other. The most common problem is aftermarket clutch cables that are too long. After market clutch pressure plates with release fingers in a different position. Machined flywheels without reintroducing the lip. Throw out bearings omitted or put on back to front. Driven clutch plates with linings too thick. Before you go pulling out the gearbox, you can carefully prise out the rubber boot & put a small 12V auto bulb on a length of wire inside, to see with a little mirror whether everything related to the fork /fingers & throw out bearing looks OK. Three inches is a big amount of free play, so there is something very wrong. I've blown up your photo of where the cable passes through the bell housing hole, and it doesn't look quite right to me. The cable appears to be at a slight angle to the bell housing flange. It should be quite straight, because the cable has an alloy locator on it.I can't see the shoulder of the locator in your photo. When I head out to the garage later, I'll take a photo of this area & you can compare with your setup. I realise it's hard to take a photo of this restricted area. Here's a photo of this area I found on the net. Cheers Banjo
  6. Nah ! Corolla Ad for me ! Cheers Banjo
  7. Hi Mark, Yep, you can do the tail lights & everything at the back end of the car. I've done it, and the car rewire & larger 85A alternator was the best thing I've done electrically for my KE30. Details of the rear end rewire are in the following thread. http://www.rollaclub...ire#entry682538 Cheers Banjo
  8. I came across this recently also, for the first time. I mentioned recently, it in a thread about timing chain covers. I think the front hole on each side of the sump, at the very front, is in a slightly different position, due to a difference in the timing chain covers used on the 4K & 4KC. Hole punch & a bit of gasket silicon should do the trick if you finish up with the wrong one ! Cheers Banjo
  9. Thanks Mate ! Good info. We'll take a trip to Oxley. Cheers Banjo
  10. Hi Guys, The clutch fork rubber boot is different on the 4 speed & 5 speed bell housings. The rectangular hole in the 4 speed gboxes are approx. 60mm x 30mm, whereas the 5 speed boxes, the same hole is approx. 70mm x 40mm. The smaller rubber boot for the 4 speed boxes is commonly available on line from a number of sources, but I am finding it hard to find the part number, or a source for the larger one, to fit a 5 speed gbox. Anyone know the Toyota P/N or a local source ? Cheers Banjo
  11. Hi Stefan, Welcome aboard. Lucky boy with a KE20 in that condition, and we're all jealous of a workshop that biggggg ! Trust someone on here that has done a LSD in a KE20 can give you some suggestions & advice.[[] P.S. Keep the pictures coming. Cheers Banjo
  12. Returned last night from the Leyburn Sprints in Southern Darling Downs, to which I always make my yearly pilgrimage, in my KE30 2 door daily drive. Great year this year, being 20th anniversary, with glorious weather, record spectator numbers, & record number of car entries (230), plus a few of "legend" drivers, from years post. Bo Seton . Two (2) Corollas in the field including David Thompson's KE30 with the Beams engine, the subject of this thread. Most impressed with it's performance, in a straight line. (not that there are too many straights on the Leyburn town/village track) Couple of photos I took in the pit area, some of you might be interested in. Cheers Banjo
  13. This might work for you. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-DC-10A-DOUBLE-POLE-RELAY-/271926817933?hash=item3f5019f48d Cheers Banjo
  14. You can fuse them separately after the single pole relay if you need to. However, if you want to place the fuses before switching them on with a relay, then you need a 12Vdc 2 pole N.O. or 2 pole changeover relay. Cheers Banjo
  15. Is there any specific reason why you cannot feed data logger & wide band from the same source ? Once the twin relay you describe is closed, they will be connected together. Just join the 12V feeds to those devices, & connect that connection to a ordinary 5 pin auto relay, as suggested. Cheers Banjo
  16. A very helpful guy called Michael at Toyota Sydney City Parts, did a serach for me for the O ring for the 5KC distributor. He came up with the Genuine Toyota P/N 90099-14090. Armed with this info, I have found that this part number repaces O Rings with P/Ns 90099-14020 & 90099-14106. This O Ring is also referred to in a number of parts lists as P/N 19007A. (Probably a discontinued number) Anyway, he also discovered that there was just 1 off 90000-14090 in Australia. i had him send it to me, and it arrived in the mail today. It's dimensions are 27.9mm OD and cross sectional (CS) dia. of 2.9mm. Basically it's a 28mm X 3.0mm O Ring, if you are buying a generic one. It has a very shiny finish, almost like plastic, and does not look or feel like the regular rubber aftermarket O rings. These can be ordered through any Toyota parts outlet by that part number. Hope that info is useful to someone. Cheers Banjo
  17. Weak spark can be caused by several things. Resistance in the primary circuit wiring. If the points are worn or "olde", then replace them. Disconnect capacitor to see if that improves things. If it does, in means it has electrically broken down inside, and should be replaced. Check battery voltage under starting conditions. Battery could be weak and getting old. Check ignition voltage to the supply end of ballast resistor & coil with multimeter, with points open & closed. If the voltage drops substantially with points closed, when current is flowing in primary of the coil, then it could mean a high resistance fuse or wiring on the ignition supply. Could even be the ignition switch. Quick test is to run a temporary "thick" wire from battery +Ve to coil and see if spark improves. On the secondary HV side of the coil thare are lots of things that can break down to the HV, & result in weak spark. Break down on the coil top itself. Break down of HV leads, or O/C HV leads. Break down inside the dizzy cap. Spring & carbon bush in top of dizzy. Very dirty spark plugs. Any thing that fails or has detoriated on the HV side should be replaced. As "Altezzaclub" says, measure the primary & secondary resistances of the coil, or take it to an auto electrician who can test it dynamically. A very good way to find leakage or breakdowns in the HV side is to try & start the car in the pitch dark, or even run it in the pitch dark. You then can clearly see "coronas" of HV break down, dancing over leads etc. that are impossible to see in day light. Hope something in there helps you solve your issue. Cheers Banjo
  18. Hi Kirill, If your Rolla is fitted with a "points" distributor, then there will always/should be a capacitor or condensor in parallel to the points. Read Primary Circuit paragraph http://classicmechan...3/ignition.html These are normally fitted inside the distributor, or as in most of the Nippon Denso & Bosch dizzies fitted to Rollas, it is attached to the outside of the distributor case, close to the terminal. However, it could be connected to the negative terminal of the coil, which is also connected to the points. This might have been done, because an available replacement was a different shape or size, and couldn't easily be attached at the dizzy. Does you points distributor have a capacitor/condensor at the dizzy ? If the capacitor/condensor was on the positive terminal of the coil, it could well be an interference filter, to prevent ignition interference with the radio. Cheers Banjo
  19. Got one from Bursons today, over the counter for a dollar each. I bought 4, so I've got a couple of spares. It's about 26.4mm OD, with a CS dia of about 3.4mm. Stretched it slightly over the helica gear, as suggested, then rolled it up into the groove. I put some high temp wheel bearing grease in the O ring slot, and a smear over the exposed O ring, after it was seated in the slot. Fitted it to the block, and it is a nice tight seal, which still allows the dizzy to turn easily, when setting the initial timing. No more oil leak. Cheers Banjo
  20. I've got a KE30 with the heater pipe feeding hot water from the back of the head, which is the hottest part of the engine. That why if you burn a valve, it will usually be in no: 4 cylinder. My heater works perfectly. However, from experience, the amount of build up inside the water system, in small pipes, where there are small flows, can be enormous on a 40 year old car, with low klms, that may never have had the head off. I've taken that plate off the back of a 3K head before, and it was almost totallly blocked & corroded. I've even seen rubber heater hoses, that you'd be hard pressed putting a 4mm drill down. Cheers Banjo
  21. I think I've found one. RAE make a whole selection, especially for distributors. http://rae.com.au/pr...or-o-ring-kits/ There's one there which is 27mm x 3.5mm CS dia. which should be pretty close. Burson's are there agents, so I'll call into my local Browns Plains store & get them to get a few in for me. I actually did just as you suggested, & prised it out with a very small screwdriver, so I could measure it. It cracked in half, even though I was careful. It was very hard & brittle. In fact, when I have a close look at it, I'll swear it is not rubber. It looks more like plastic, unless it's changed it's composition over many years of heat. It's so hard, it wouldn't seal anything. I'll let you know if the RAE one is the go. Cheers Banjo
  22. Thanks Guys ! i might try that. I did find this website in NZ, but it doesn't cross reference the O rings to particular distributors; just makes. http://www.cdlautopa... April 2012.pdf pages 6 - 19 A quick measurement, without cutting the O ring out of the groove, indicates it is about 27mm OD, 23mm ID, and cross sectional dia about 4mm. I presume the best way to fit the O ring is to remove the helical gear at the base of shaft, and roll the O ring up the tapered section on the boss, that Denso have kindly provided. Cheers Banjo
  23. I was playing around last night, experimenting with a 5K Denso distributor which I have locked up the "flying spring weights", to act as a trigger for a electronic ignition control, without advance. All went well, and with a very basic advance curve mapped in, the 4K-U fired up immediately, & ran OK. However, after about 20 minutes of playing, I noticed that engine oil was trickling down the side of the block under the dizzy, as so many of us are accustomed to, when we clean the engine. The O ring on the base of the distributor was leaking, helped in no way by the slight +ve pressure in the crankcase. Like most K series distributors, the O ring has gone hard and flat over the years. I've had a quick look on the web this morning looking for a source of these rubber O rings, but can't easily find one. I assumed as the hole in the block is a standard size, & both Nippondenso & Bosch dizzys both fit, that the O rings would be a common part. However, when I pull out an old Bosch unit I have here, I notice the Denso O ring groove is wider. The Denso dizzy I have has the following model number info on the sticker on the side. Toyota 19060-13100 5KC 100291-1340 DENSO Does anyone know the P/N for this rubber O ring, and where you can readily get them ? If anyone has any part numbers for the O ring on the Bosch dizzy, that would probably be very useful info also. Cheers Banjo
  24. Hi Matt, What's your budget for an ignition control system ? The MSD CDI unit will set you back $ 500 +. The specs you need for your worked 3K are fairly basic, so you may find a more basic ignition controller like an older Haltech unit will suffice. Try ebay & Gumtree. You might be surprised what is out there. Just make sure they come with a loom. Everyone on this forum will have their own preference as to brand. P.S. My personal choice would be to not go CDI, as you need very high quality HV leads & seperation. You can get cross fire with them if the setup is not perfect, as a result of the very high voltages CDIs generate. Mainly happens on V8s where the spark plug leads lie side by side. The great advantage of using late model ignition controllers is the awesome graphics of the setup & real-time software that comes with them with their virtual dashboards. Cheers Banjo
  25. Hi Matt, You've spent some serious $$$ on your little old 3K. Are you planning to drive it to the track or hill climbs, or will it be "trailered" to events ? It's probably not going to be too happy about running around town in race trim setup ! If you've spent all those $$$ on the engine, & carbies. you should probably provide it with a good programable ignition system, to get the most out of it. You have lots of options for a N.A. engine without turbo. You should do a bit of research on the net. You can easily pay up to $ 2K+ for very up-to-date ignition controllers with software, but you could probably find an older Haltech, or similar device second hand on the net, that will do the trick. If you are so inclined, you could save a lot of dough, and have a lot of fun putting together a kit controller from Megasquirt or the local Jaycar electronic ignition kit. These will handle your 3K very well. Alternatively, as basically, you only need advance control, you could just get your 5K dizzy recurved for starters, as Parrot originally suggested. Let us know which way you go. Cheers Banjo
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