Banjo

Hi Nick, Don't think you will need the LCAs of the Corona. Believe they are the same length as the LCAs on your KE55. The ball joint on the LCA is also the same. Plenty of threads on Rollaclub site, with details of the XT130/132 strut upgrade. Have a search. Cheers Banjo

If you stay Toyota, and go with larger vented rotors & calipers off any of the Corona, Celica, Cressida lines, you will need the larger hubs, which only come on struts designed for bigger cars than the Corolla. Because the mounting & pivot points for inner end of LCAs, and strut top mounting are fixed, it's important that you get a strut, which is not going to introduce positive camber issues. You want a strut, that has a KPI angle either equal too, or less than your existing Corolla strut. That's why the Corona XT-130 & XT-132 struts are so popular. With 15 x 7 rims you shouldn't have any issues fitting a bigger caliper in there. Don't forget, you will probably have to upgrade your brake MC, to move enough fluid into the larger volume caliper cylinders. Cheers Banjo

If your gearbox has two wires coming out of the top, then these are for your reversing light. Connect to the red wires from the auto shifter plug to these. Cheers Banjo

Hi Gabriel, The auto shifter has two circuits off memory. There are a pair of wires for the reversing light, & a pair of wires to inhibet starting unless the auto shifter is in Park. There are a couple of threads on Rollaclub, describing the auto./manual conversion electrics. Have a search. Here is one of them. http://www.rollaclub... switch manual Off memory, it was the black wires that are the starter inhibit. I've done it on my KE30 some years ago, & I know I just bridged it at the plug or socket for the auto shifter. If you got the auto shifter, & a multimeter, you should be able to quickly work out which ones are closed when in Park, & which ones are closed when in reverse. I'll have a look in the morning & let you know. You should always disconnect one or both battery terminals whilst working on your car, especially if working on the starter motor, as you found out. Cheers Banjo

Let us know what you find, once you've taken the strut out, & the hub off. Interested to hear how damaged the stub axle is. Keep posting with your progress. Cheers Banjo

Hmmmm ! I tested mine. I unplugged the loom and connected the test lamp between wiper case & battery +ve. No light. Plugged the loom plug back into the wiper socket & bingo, it lit. Maybe Toyota changed this arrangement on some models. My Rolla is a 1975 KE30 2 door, assembled at AMI in Melbourne. Mine has not got a wire strap between wiper frame & mounting bolt, and don't think it ever had. My Rolla, is an unmolestest beauty, that belonged to a little olde lady, with low klms. (car that is, not the lady) So sorry if I have given any one a bum steer. Maybe Toyota varied in that respect on some models. P.S. Your right Clapped Out ! I just went out in the shed & found a Wiper Motor off my "donor" KE55 2 door couple (which went to heaven). The wiper motor from the KE55 is a different shape to the one on my KE30. The Wiper "barrel" is wider in dia. & shorter. It also only has 4 wires in it's plug which is on a short loom/lead. It also still has attached a little black earth wire from the wiper case to a mounting bolt. So there are some KEs with the frame earthed locally, and others with the earth fed from the loom. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jason, The wiper motor is not earthed via it's mounting to the cars body. It has a 3 point mounting plate which is isolated electrically, via the rubber vibration mounts. The earth is via the loom cable. The KE wiper motors usually have a six (6) way plug on the loom which plugs directly into wiper motor. Usually five (5) of these connections are used. The white wire with the black stripe is the EARTH/CHASSIS/GROUND. The blue wire is the 12V power. (it usually has two wires connected to the plug. There are also three other switching wires, that are all blue, but have black, orange & white traces/stripes, respectively. Unplug the loom plug from the wiper motor. With multimeter or test lamp, check that you have a good 12V between the two pins on the plug with the blue wire (+ve) & White/Black wire (-ve/gnd) If the volts are OK here, then the issue is the stalk itself, or the wiring between stalk & wiper motor. I'd put my money on the stalk. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jason, Here is the wiring around your wipers. The Turn / Wiper 15A fuse under the steering wheel feeds 12V power via the red lines; to Hazard switch, Washer motor, Stalk switch, & Wiper motor. As washers are working, that indicates the fuse is OK. Check that you have 12V at the "B" terminal of the wiper motor. Check if you have 12V at the "B" terminal of the stalk switch. If both OK, then very likely the issue is in the stalk itself. Once you take the cover off, it may be visually obvious, with a broken wire or something simple. Worst case, it means a new stalk. Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jason, I assume from your comment that "everything else is working as normal", means your windscreen washers are working. I asked this because the washer & wiper are both fed off the same fuse. If neither are working, then the problem is most likely the fuse or the power feed to the fuse. If the washers are working but not the wiper motor, then the fault will likely be in the steering column stalk or the connector plug at the base of the steering column. There are no relays originally associated with the wiper motor, unless someone has added one. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jason, The fuse that usually feeds the wiper motor & washers is the "TURN" fuse, sometimes called TURN/WIPER. If your indicators also don't work, then it is probably the fuse. If not the fuse, then could be an open circuit anywhere, between fuse, stalk & wipers. Do the windscreen washers also not work ? Cheers Banjo

Tail, parker & dash lamps are all fed by a 15A fuse, labelled "TAIL". If the car runs, and everything else works except these lights, then is more than likely that it is the fuse. Have you tested it with a test lamp, or multimeter, to check that there is 12V on both sides of the fuse to chassis ? Do the headlights work ? If you haven't got a test lamp, or meter, then swap Head & Tail fuses, and see if tail lights now work, & head lights don't. That will prove if it's the fuse or not. Other than that, it can only be a major wiring open circuit. Get a wiring diagram on this site & trace it out. The lighting circuits of all the early model Corollas were pretty much the same. Cheers Banjo

Most guys & gals on this forum have had problems with the fuel gauge at one time or another. If it isn't the little DC voltage regulator on the back of the dash panel PCB burning out, then it is the sensor itself in the tank sticking, or going open circuit. My biggest gripe has always been that the gauge is so non linear. After you fill up, the gauge reads full, but drops rapidly down to about 1/2 full, but has only used about 1/4 of the tanks volume. The last 1/3 of the gauge takes days & days to get to zero. I can always read accurately a point right at the bottom of the gauge, where there is about 5 litres left in the tank, so I then fill up. Two (2) weeks ago, I ran out of petrol one night, as I think the gauge jammed or got stuck, just above zero. This morning, the gauge didn't move at all, for the first 10 minutes of the trip. Then all of a sudden, it started to move up to it's proper position. I think it is sticking. The pivot pins actually wear out. My question is, has anyone adapted the existing sensor, using a resistor wire & wiper off a late model car of either Toyota or any other make, or has anyone experimented with a complete different sensor assembly from anything else, that without too much mods, fits into the KE tank ? I'm planning a long trip in my KE shortly, so want to make sure the gauge reading is reliable & accurate. Any ideas welcome. I'm sure I can come up with a bit of electronics, that will linearize the current senders non linear output, but the mechanics have to be right first up. P.S. Has anyone purchased & tried any of the aftermarket fuel tank senders for the KE30 out of Thailand, on ebay ? Cheers Banjo

Thanks Mate ! Fixed it ! Cheers Banjo

Lots of Rollaclub guys in Melbourne. One of them will post here hopefully, where you might find your needs in Melbourne. First get it all stripped down, do a bit of research & reading on here, so you have a complete list of what you need, so you can get it all in one go. Just be aware that the KPI angle (king pin inclination) on the Toyota struts for Corollas, Coronas, & Celicas, vary from model to model slightly. Someone on Rollaclub or Toymods produced a listing of all the available Toyota struts & their respective KPIs. I'll see if I can find it, & put a link in this thread for you. I know I got caught once, early on, fitting Celica RA65 struts with Cresida brakes to the front end of my KE30. I had to finish up fitting camber top adjusters to get my camber correct again. Don't go overboard with the negative camber, or you'll finish up with poor tyre wear, and attract the boys in blue. For street use, I've found -0.5 to -0.8 deg is sufficient to give good steerability, stability, tyre wear, & better more precise cornering. Best thing you can do when putting it all back together, is get a good set of new shock inserts, to suit whatever struts you finish up with, as Altezzaclub has suggested above. Cheers Banjo

Where are located ? I sense you might not be resident in Australia. Cheers Banjo

Welcome aboard ! Despite you not observing anything visually wrong, there obviously is something very wrong. More than likely a bent axle stub, or strut tube, which on the KE70, was the smallest diameter tube of all the KEs. Like the man suggests, get the jack out, then remove brakes & rotor/hub, until you are looking at just the strut & stub axle. If you don't find the issue during removal, you should see it clearly, once you've got to that stage of bare stub axle & strut. The strut is going to have to come out. I would automatically replace it, rather than repair it, irrespective of how small or large the damage you find is. Come back & tell us what you find. A few pictures would also be great. Cheers Banjo

Good one Dave ! Love it ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Does the engine run without this issue when cold, but only appears when the engine warms up. If so, that is a good indication of a leaky point on the manifold flange somewhere. Regarding the point for your vacuum advance hose to carby connection. This picture I picked up on the net, shows it very clearly. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I looked at your photo of the engine bay & saw the solenoid there, with it's lead running off to the bottom RHS, and assumed it was connected. It should be connected to the ignition switch "On" position. It is designed to cut fuel immediately that the ignition is turned off, to prevent engine over run. It could well be your issue. You seem to have covered everything else. Cheers Banjo

Hi Naim, When you get the wires repaired, don't stop there. Go for the relay conversion, as you mentioned. It will improve the voltage to the headlights, & light output, as long as you take the relay supply power directly from the battery via a fuse. There are a couple of relay conversion wiring diagrams on this forum. I think Altezzaclub has a good one, I've seen. http://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/33874-lousy-ke7-lights/page__p__375535__hl__+relay%20+conversion#entry375535 Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I zoomed in on your photo and noticed, what appears to be a plastic fuel tank on the tray, behind the drivers seat, with an in-line hand primer. Is it possible that the pickup point inside the red tank, is not always fully covered with fuel, and it is sucking air occasionally ? It looks like the tank is fairly flat, and the pick up point might be towards the top. Just a thought. Fill the tank right up to the top, & see if the problem disappears. Does the tank have some sort of breather, so it does not create a vacuum in there, which would make the fuel pumps job very hard ? Lets know how you go. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Welcome aboard ! What a neat scrub basher. Listening to it, it definitely sounds like too much air, or not enough petrol. Pull out all the plugs. Disconnect the line between fuel pump & carby, and turn the engine over for 15 seconds, & see how much fuel you get out of the pump into a container, & whether it is a constant flow. Cheers Banjo.

Hi Naim, I gather from your Avatar pic & your other posts, that your need for a basic wiring diagram & wire colours, is for a KE70. Altezzaclub has posted just what you wanted back in 2014 in another thread. You should be able to obtain all the info you need at the following link. http://www.rollaclub...ram#entry688373 Trust this assists. Cheers Banjo

I'm sure if you go to your local auto shop, they will have something in a bottle for cleaning hydraulic lifters, but my suggestion, is simply soak in good old lacquer thinners overnight, and then thoroughly rinse with kerosene. Get 8 x glass jam jars. Number them 1 to 8. From front of engine place all dissembled lifter components in each consecitively numbered jar, so that each lifter's components stay together & don't get mixed up. After soaking, clean/scrub with an old toothbrush, & make sure any grooves in the lifter are clean. If the lifter has really heavy varnish, you made need to soak for an additional 24 hours. The little hole in the lifter must be completely clear, as this is what allows the oil feed into the lifter. The video link I provided earlier in this post, stresses how clean everything must be, and the importance of manually filling the lifter with oil. Don't change camshaft bearings yourself. Needs special equipment, and welsh plug at the rear of the engine must be removed. Camshaft bearings also need to be matched to the camshaft journals. Cheers Banjo

In a current RAV4 ad on tele in Australia, you get a fleeting glimpse of a little orange KE20/25 passing the RAV4, or the other way around.. Was just wondering if anyone knows of the owner of the KE ? It looks in extremely well restored condition ? Cheers Banjo