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Showing results for tags 'timing'.
Found 4 results
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Hey guys just picked up a 84 slant nose and am having trouble with tune or timing or both and need a little advice as I’m new to the carby game and want to learn. so long story short I am 3rd owner first was a older lady who put most of the ks on in then parked it up in the shead for about 2. A guy then brought it off her and did a bit to fix it up and get it running this included Fluid change throughout, new rad and hoses, thermo fan, new dizzy elec ign vac adv, coil , leads , plugs, carby rebuild kit, rpm guage, and a few more things not important to the problem. so my problem is driving at freeway speeds 80-100kmph (3500 - 4000 rpm 4th gear) the car will have what I can describe as the odd hick-up or cough where it will jolt for a split second and break up only to keep driving normally this happens pretty consistently but at random intervals at this speed (it is fine any other speed however haven’t really tried going above 100 kmph as I don’t intend to). Also to add to the problem when downshifting from 4th to 3rd if I take more then a second or two to downshift the rpm will drop to low and the car stalls out on me unless given a jab of throttle to keep her running. Weather or not this problem is related or not I am not sure. And the final problem I am experiencing is to do with the tuning side of it(I believe ) ,where I find myself not being able to get the idle to drop below 1000 rpm and when I did have it down around that 1000 mark it was not idleing smooth at all. so what I have done to help progress on my issues. I adjusted my valve clearances that’s helped quiet the motor a lot and make it smother overall. I have done a fresh service throughout new belts oils plugs ect, I messed around with the tune a little to try teach myself a bit about how it all works, and finally I checked my dizzy timing to the motor because I am running 98 octane I have based the timing off 10 degree btdc (that is pretty much my dizzy clocked all the way over to the left or turned anticlockwise as far as it can go. (Please correct me if I’m wrong on this part) so what I have learned from all this valve clearances helped a bit aswell as a good service I have gained a basic to slightly advanced knowledge of how the tune and timing and all that come into play and work together. however my problem still exists I could not get the car to run correctly with the timing retarded to where it is supposed to be it would idle horrible and I couldn’t get the rpm to change enough to the point I could start implementing the idle control screw. so I have set it back to where it was where it ran nicely but had the hickups. After playing around with it richen it a touch I checked plugs and it is still to lean so now I am running out of ideas and things to try On my list of things to try and check is fule pump, fule filter, check for any vac leaks (fixed one already) and spray around the carby and intake manifold with break clean or something to see if I can notice a rpm change when running to indicate a leak in the gasket. now I have probably missed a lot of basic steps and things to do so please correct me or point me in the right direction even a basic tuning guide for the 4kc would be mighty helpful or any in-site if any of you have had the same problem or simalar or think you know what the issue might be sorry for the lengthy post and sorry if it has been covered already cheers wizards Also there is a pic of Alice in all her glory
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Hello. Once again I come to this forum to seek your wisdom! I've tried asking around but no one have any idea what the heck is going on. My car did not pass the inspections. The HC value was off the scale it read a value over 2000 when the limit is 400. As I understand HC is hydrocarbons and this means the car is running a little rich which I can already tell by the backfiring sometimes. I've taken the carburetor apart and replaced all the gaskets and given it a thorough clean. I could already feel it running better than before. I think it was leaking a little bit. I also ordered some ignition parts like: A new coil, distributor cap and rotor and new breaker points. They did not have any condensers so I have to source that elsewhere. Unluckily the distributor cap and rotor did not fit. I changed the breaker points on my corolla and set it up to the factory spec. A gap of 0.4 - 0.5 mm when it is at the top. Then I checked it with a dwell angle and got it pretty on point. I also checked the timing with a timing light. But after I changed the breaker points I noticed it was running very rough. It was coughing and spitting fuel out the exhaust. It's like the timing was way off. Then I noticed on my tacho that it was jumping all over the place. I have no idea why it does this. Is the high voltage jumping and shorting somewhere since it's always triggering the tacho? I've uploaded a video to youtube to demonstrate what happends.
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Hi guys, have a 1980 ke55 and I just took the motor out and replaced it with one from a ke70 while using the ke55 cam, carb, distributor, head etc. Has new coil, points, condenser, cap, rotor, leads, seals, headgasket etc. Timing set to 8degrees btdc, points set to 0.4mm, valve clearances set cold. Starts fairly easily and can rev in neutral easily like it used to but if i give the accelerator a few jabs it dies until it returns to idle, also when I take it for a test drive it doesn't want to rev easily and dies when I go over around 3000rpm. Just wondering if you guys can give me some tips or what your thoughts are on the problem and how to fix it? First time posting on here so hope this is the right section, thanks.
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Has anybody modified a timing cover so that the camshaft timing can be adjusted (advance/retard) without taking the whole timing cover off? Here are some photos that I found on the net: K engine: T engine: The face of the timing cover is slightly curved, so bolting a plate of aluminium might have issues with oil leaks. From the photos there is a raised edge between the timing cover and the plate. Not sure if it is welded or bolted from the inside of the cover. The raised bit can have a groove so that an o-ring can fit in. Probably the raised edge is so the plate bolts don't stick though to the inside of the timing cover, and hitting the timing gear.
