Regular Member
  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About Viterbo

  • Rank
    Common Member

Recent Profile Visitors

1,658,549 profile views
  1. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    I already knew about that ToyheadAuto thermostat but was looking for a cheap option as I was told there was a Hilux or Dyna or something that had a lower temp one that fit K engines. I've been running a Payen paper headgasket on my 5K with above 12bar of compression pressure in each cylinder for almost 2 years with lots of punishment and still goes great!
  2. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    I get what you're trying to say, and believe me I'm always thankful to anyone who takes some of their time to explain me something. Let's imagine I live in the hottest place on earth, I don't have any radiator selling point in a range of thousands of kms, but I have access to that specific 78°C thermostat. Will it fit? Hahaha it's really just a yes or no topic
  3. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    That's exactly what I need, regulate the temperature of the cooling system to a colder temperature. I will run a very modified 5K with a Nissan Primera radiator but need to control the temps to a step colder just to keep it safe. I'm not running into any issues, I just want a lower temp thermostat to play safe. Factory thermostats weren't designed to modified engines pushed way harder than the vehicles were created for. If I noticed a difference from a 88ºC one to a 82ºC, that 78ºC might be exactly what I look for. I just need to know if it fits, considering what I exposed on the 1st post.
  4. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    I just need it to open a bit sooner. When punishing the engine the temp goes a bit hotter than normal operation and I want to keep it safe.
  5. A long time ago I bought a 5K assembled head that had some work done to it and was ready to be installed (face machined, all cleaned, etc). It had a brand new thermostat installed also so I just dropped it in. First time the engine ran the temperature went past the usual maximum point before cooling (signal of thermostat opening). Took the thermostat out and found it was an 88ºC one while I've been running an 82ºC one. Later someone told me he found a 70 something degree one but wasn't able to provide me a part number. Today I've done a bit of research. Started with my 88ºC part number (Gates TH14088G1) and was able to find several vehicles where it fits (Ford, MG, lots of Toyotas, etc). When I looked for the Daihatsu Charade G100 GTi there was a 78ºC thermostat (Gates TH29478G1) on the list along with the Gates 88ºC one. But there's a small problem, the sizes are very different and that's where I need your opinion: Gates TH14088G1 Gates TH29478G1 Both of them fit the Daihatsu, so is it safe to say they'll fit our Ks?
  6. Oil pump failure

    That's a google picture. I have a 5K but I'm running all the Starlet gear, including the Starlet fan
  7. Oil pump failure

    You can see it there
  8. Oil pump failure

    Banjo the Starlets had that thermostat housing with the hole because it's where they have the temp sensor for the electric fan
  9. Electronic Distributor

    Condenser also good? Changed mine almost 2 years ago and they keep going. But I guess components aren't just as good as they were... On the electronic dizzy matter I'm currently developing this:
  10. 5K build help request

    Need a few more hints on this build: - I'm going to buy new lifters (3F ones). Is it worth buying new pushrods? (if they're available). I already have a few sets of used 4K pushrods, wondering if buying new ones is worth it. - Been reading a lot about breaking in a new flat tappet camshaft. Mostly regarding V8s but I think K engines are also flat tappets? What do you advise doing to break in a newly built engine (rings, bearings, etc) with a regrounded camshaft and new lifters? This is what I think is correct - Make sure the engine will start right away. Carb full of fuel, oil circuit full using an electric screwdriver on the pump (or using the shaft of an old dizzy). Instantly rev it to around 2000rpm and let it bounce between 2000 and 3000 for around 20 minutes. Replace oil and filter after this. Then go make around 100kms applying little stress to the engine but letting it go down the rev range but itself to create vacuum so it seats the rings. Use an oil with a lot of zinc. Anything wrong until this point?
  11. Oil pump failure

    Is it something like this?
  12. Carburetor jetting

    Also my carb is a 28/28, some of them are 28/32. I'm going to try to get a bottom with the 32 butterfly
  13. Carburetor jetting

    I think my primary is 0.9 or 1.0 and not sure about the secondary. I'm not having any trouble on revving honestly. My timing is set to 5 degree to avoid detonation (which I think still occurs on 95 RON). I can rev it to 7k easily. The issue is when rolling in highway for example, 4th and 5th at higher speedsjust seems the engine struggles a lot. I can floor it and it doesn't go any faster. That's why I thought the carb just doesn't give enough for it to go further. I know these engines aren't really performance oriented, but..
  14. Carburetor jetting

    I already have a narrowband O2 sensor and a cheap ebay digital gauge to install on the car, but it's not yet installed. I want to fully rebuild and tune up the engine at the beginning of Spring and it'll run on bike carbs, but in the meantime I want to run the engine safe. One thing I notice is that the engine struggles a lot in higher revs, like there's not enough amount of fuel mixture going in...
  15. Carburetor jetting

    I'm running a carburetor from a 4K engine in my 5K and since I'm running a bit of compression (12,5 bar in each cylinder) I'm afraid of running lean. Did anybody drill the jets of the standard carb? Is it worth doing? What sizes should I run? It's a standard 5K with just the compression and slightly ported on the intake side.