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Viterbo

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About Viterbo

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  1. Yep, block skimmed, head skimmed, good gasket, bolts ok. It does this since day 1 after the rebuild that was also the start of this radiator use. I hardly believe it's engine related. I'm still yet to test the new cap.
  2. Checked the measurements and both diameter of the top and depth are the same, same cap is used on both radiators. Bled the system once again with my bleeding funnel, after the thermostat opens a couple of times just really small bubbles every now and then appear. Oil is perfectly fine, no milky substance in the oil cap, nothing. Since they're the same, after I bled the system I installed the new "TRD" radiator cap I had laying around. Need to go for a run to see any improvements.
  3. Just checked and the caps are the same. Same sizes, same pressure. I remembered I had something around that I could try. Not a genuine one but it's new and must work properly. Only difference is it opens at 1.3bar and not 0.9bar.
  4. I bet they're the same, but just to be sure I ordered one for the Primera
  5. It's the K radiator cap that I'm using. Now that you mention that maybe be the issue because I don't have trouble removing the cap even when fully heated. I really need to test with a new cap.
  6. I can't explain it neither... That's just what I found through the part numbers. After replacing my cap, if it doesn't solve the issue I might try reinstalling the standard radiator just to see the behaviour. I really don't believe in headgasket issue because it did this since first start after rebuild (and the radiator was used since the first start). He keeps overflowing until he's "happy" with the amount of coolant it has and then works fine. But that means the radiator is not full (although it never overheats)...
  7. My thermostat is brand new and (judging by the cluster) it's working as it should. My car already has a thermo-fan from factory and I'm using it. Only comes on when the car is stopped. Just went to check the part numbers for the standard Primera expansion tank and apparently the tank has a cap that opens at 1.4bar (besides being a lot bigger than mine). So the radiator uses a 0.9bar cap and the expansion tank uses a 1.4bar cap. My expansion tank has no pressure cap, just a normal closing cap. Hmmm.....
  8. Didn't measure temps, I'm just guiding myself with the cluster temp gauge and the behaviour is exactly the same as before. The headgasket I'm using is the same I was using before (well, not the same same...), everything lines up perfectly although some holes are blocked. Got to know a few weeks ago these holes are blocked to force the water to the back of the block? It's not boiling water but it's very hot yes, once again, same as it always was. Nope, haven't tried a bigger bottle yet. My first attempt is to install a new radiator cap as this one has a few years and has seen some not so clean coolants...
  9. Everything is fine, I bought this tool to help me bleed the system and after a few big bubbles came up (after the thermostat open) it stabilized and no more bubbles appeared
  10. I rebuilt and upgraded my 5K on the last months and to ensure proper cooling I upgraded my radiator. I chose a Nissan Primera GT (SR20DE) radiator because the inlet and outlet are on the same sides as my standard radiator but the Nissan one is huge! Made my way with the mounts and pipes but I'm having an issue while the engine is running. I'm still using the stock expansion bottle and when I push the engine hard the bottle overfills and spills the exceeding amount. I have 3 possible causes: 1 - Since the radiator is far bigger and takes a bigger volume of coolant, can it be expanding properly and the stock bottle is just too small? 2 - Maybe my radiator cap is faulty? 3 - Blown headgasket (unlikely since it only has 1000kms and no other headgasket related issues are present. No oil/water mixing, no overheating, nothing) As said above the engine is not overheating in any circumstance, it just expands too much coolant. Here's some pics:
  11. I was wrong about the 15 degrees, I was cheated by the new cam profile. The TDC is accurate on the 0 mark. After some time messing with the timing I think the problem is the carb is too small and can't delivery enough AIR to the system. On low rpms (below 1600rpms) it tries to suck but gas comes out of the jet in bubbles and I think it floods due to insufficient air.
  12. Full lift was at 104,5º with the vernier pulley untouched so I advanced it a bit to reach the 103º specified by the manufacturer. The issue is the car doesn't idle, at least below 1800rpms and with the help of the butterfly being a bit opened... In that last video you can see when I enter the car the idle drops a bit and the engine starts to miss a lot, I had the choke pulled and closed it a bit. Its enough for the engine to shut down...
  13. This one, it's possible to see the marked link on the dot on the crank and the other link on the cam pulley oposite to the pin in the center.
  14. Yes. Dots oposite to each other, then with the chain I stretched it making a rectangle shape with the links touching each other having a single link on each end (oposite to each other) and I marked them to ensure I place them on the dots on the pulleys. I think it's a pretty simple process leaving no room for error. No special instructions on the camshaft, just the degrees to have it dialed in (103º at full lift). I maxed out the advanced on the dizzy adjustment and had no time to advance another tooth. Tomorrow I'm going to do it and see how it reacts to more timing.
  15. Advanced the dizzy and got a bit better but it's still like this:
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