Banjo

Hi Taz, Looks like we have travelled down a similar path. I'd love to hear what your results are, and see the pics. Here's some pics of the one I made, in a K series distributor body. Cheers Banjo

Hi Taz, Is this the one you are using in your hybrid ? How have you incoporated it into the K series engine ? I tried a CA18DET CAS, built into a 4K distributor. It was a very tight fit, but we got there. Then I discovered the Toyota 7K dizzy was much large in diameter, but had issues in other areas, as it is not interchangable with the 4K & 5K distributors. Cheers Banjo

Hi Taz, Correct, the ignition as it stands can only run direct fire waste spark. To give sequential firing, it would need a simple CAS sensor, to direct signal to ignitor for 1 or 4, and 2 or 3. Not very hard. That's next step. It will be interesting to see if there is any difference between the performance of the two types of system. I'm currently running platinum plugs, so that should remove any issues in relation to spark plug tip wear. The 360 deg Nissan CAS disk, has apparently had some issues with some afternmarket ECUs reading the pulses coming that fast. In my experiment, I settled for a 24 tooth one from Yoshifab, with a synchronising pulse. What I found was that some of these disks are water laser cut. The error between edges of the holes in the disk, can give "jitter" in the strobe. However a CAS disk, only used to synchoise the flywheel pulses, is not critical at all, as it just has to overlap the whole advance/retard operating area for each cylinder. The pulse edge from the flywheel sensor determines the trigger point, not the CAS. Most of the high end after market ECUs allow for individual trimming of the trigger points, if the "mechanicals" for a 4 cylinder engine, are not exactly 180 degree, or 90 degree, (if a CAS signal is used). My dear old Haltech E6K ECU doesn't have that luxury. My issue has always been with using the camshaft as a trigger point for ignition, when in any old K series engine , invarably has some "slop" in the timing chain and oil pump/distributor gear. With the trigger taken off the crankshaft, whether pulley or flywheel, this issue is illiminated altogether. Cheers Banjo

Found this on Wikipedia. Seems to confirm what Altezzaclub notes about delay after start up, (in a cold place in winter like Orange) and my reading that ideal operating temp is about 320 deg C Cheers Banjo

Altezzaclub, When you say a pair, I gather you have a narrow band O2 for control, & a separate wide band O2 for display ? My research has shown that the ideal operating temperature for O2 sensors is about 320 deg C. I suppose I could drill a little hole in my daily drive exhaust, at the point where I intend to fit the O2 sensor, and stick a thermocouple in there and measure the actual temperature ? Appreciate these comments & feedback. Cheers Banjo

Hi Taz, This has been an ongoing project. The initial idea was to experiment with various trigger systems to get the ignition side perfect, before doing the EFI side of the conversion. Initially this 4K on the test stand had a carby fitted. I wasn't too keen on the "after-market" add-on crank shaft pully sensors, with brackets & adjustments, all being sources of potential problems. I was keen on a flywheel sensor, using magnets & Hall Effect sensor. Initially I drilled two holes into the flywheel, 180 deg apart, with 25mm x 10mm rare earth magnets fitted. The face of the magnet was accessible via a slot in the bell housing. This worked well, but I needed a CAS to determine whether the trigger was 1 & 4, or 2 & 3, as I was running a waste spark system. This I did by gutting a distributor, and again fitting some magnets & Hall Effect sensors. This worked well, using the Haltech E6K ECU. I even experimented with a Nissan slotted disk CAS fitted to a 4K dizzy, but was not satisfied with the accuracy & stability of the result. It was all getting a bit too complicated for the simplicity & reliability I wanted from this system. I then discovered a Hall Effect sensor which could tell the difference betweem a "N" & "S" pole of a magnet. I then revisited the flywheel sensing, but this time fitting two rare earth magnets through the flywheel, rather than radially. One has a "N" pole facing out, & the other a "S" pole facing out. That's the magnets sitting proud at 10 deg BTDC & 170 deg on the other side of the flywheel. The sensor is on the little green PCB, for the experiment. The system worked perfectly & the stability and accuracy of the strobe was unblieveable, compared to the other experiments I had tried. Ultimately, the magnets were moved to 80 deg BTDC, so that all computations could be done in the E6K before the firing point, on the same revolution. The sensor is finally located on the "flex" plate between the engine block & the bell housing, down under the oil filter mounting block. It's accessible & proteceted, and doesn't require slotting the bell housing. The Hall Effect sensors position is fixed; not requiring any adjustment as the initial advance setting (10 deg BTDC) can be set in the Haltech. It achieved the simple accurate system I was after, with direct fire, and "no distributor". Got a high pressure fuel pump arriving today, so shouldn't be long before I fire it up, & start playing with the ECU maps to see what it can do.The E6K ECU is being fed with all the normal signals, like TPS, Coolant & Intake air temps, a MAP sensor & the O2 sensor. Cheers Banjo

Thanks Taz, My research has shown that if the O2 sensors are too close to the engine they can over-heat & result in a shortened life. Too far away from the engine they can suffer from condensation problems, which is why they suggest strongly that O2 sensors be fitted at 12:00 o'clock, or at least between 9:00 & 3:00. Apparently condensation can kill them pretty quickly. However, as the Haltech unit I am using is a "heated type", I agree, I don't think it will be too much of an issue if I move it a bit further downstream. I will check floor clearance in the area I put it in. Thanks again ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys & Gals, Currently doing a 7KE EFI setup on my 4K test rig engine, which if it works well, will go onto a fresh 5K engine, yet to be completed. Nearly got everything finished, and the Haltech E6K I'm using, is all wired up. Got a brand new Haltech O2 sensor & mounting boss today, and am not sure where the best place to fit it ? I'm running a 4 into 1 extractor, and thought possibly the easiest & best place would be where I've marked with a "white" circle. However, it occurred to me this is a fairly turbulent point, as all four exhaust pipes meet here. Maybe a better place would be a little way further down the exhaust pipe ? Most manufacturers of modern engines put the O2 sensor up on the exhaust manifold somewhere, relatively close to the engine. Is this for convenience, or would a better spot be further down the pipe. Appreciate if anyone who has done this before, could give me their thoughts. Here's a couple of pics of the 7KE EFI intake on the 4K. No distributor Pajero acelerator cable (thank you Nesta) No mechanical fuel pump Cheers Banjo

Hi Liam, Need more info. Does the starter motor turn over & crank the engine, or is the engine completely dead ? Did this happen suddenly, or did it get harder to start over a period of time ? Give us some more symptoms & we'll try and assist you to solve it quickly. Cheers Banjo

Hi Tore, Altezzaclub is perfectly correct with what he suggests. You need all four (4) spark plugs out, so there is no resistance to the motor turning, from compression on the other three cylinders you are not measuring at the time. Take the car for a run for 20-30 minutes, until it reaches normal operating temperature, then take out all the spark plugs. Put a brick on the accelerator pedal to keep the throttle open, and ensure the choke is off/open. Get a mate to turn the ignition switch while you hold the compression guage. Make sure you measure all four cylinders. Take a note of the readings. It is important that all four readings are pretty close together. Compression figures well apart, I've found, usually indicate a need for a valve grind. All readings pretty low could mean that the rings/piston/bore are worn. To determine whether low compression is caused by rings/piston/bore wear, or valves, squirt a tablespoon of engine oil into each bore. Turn the engine over a couple of times, and then redo the compression test on the low reading cylinders. If the reading increases dramatically, then the low readings are probably as a result of rings/piston/bore wear. If the new reading stays pretty much the same, as before the oil was added, then the cause of low compression is probably valves. Hope that assists ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Tore, There is a very rough multiplication factor between CR & compression, but it is influenced by many things. Have a read of these articles & you will see it is far more involved http://www.type2.com...ineg/comrat.htm http://www.healey6.c...on pressure.pdf http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html There is plenty more info about this subject if you care to Google it. Cheers Banjo

Humm ! That's the way I would have done it, with the "O" ring facing out, but if I do it that way, the 3mm extension on the bearing inner boss will be facing in, not out, as I've determined it should be. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, Think I have solved the riddle ! I think the rubber "O" ring was a later development from bearing manufacturers. These are a sealed bearing, so normally no diff oil will get through to the outside & into the rear brake area. The interference & step at the back of the casing, (to butt the bearing up against), would normally prevent oil seepage. I think the "O" ring is probably a backup. If however some oil got past the bearing, the retaining plate was designed to collect it. It has a little recessed section at the bottom which funnels any seepage out through the backing plate and onto the road, away from the brake linings. See the little cutout in the backing plate on the bearing centre round hole, and matching cutouts on the flange. I remembered I had an old Ke55 rear axle in the shed, I have used in the past as a slide hammer, to remove stubborn axles. Luckily, it still had the original bearing on it. The bearing did not have the "O" ring. It did have a 3mm extension of the centre section of the bearing on one side only. That extension was facing towards the hub. My assumption that the "O" ring would be the last part of the bearing to be pressed into the diff casing was wrong. With the 3mm boss towards the hub, the "O" ring would go in first. I'll get the new bearing pressed on in the next day or so, and "fingers crossed" it will all work out OK. Thanks for your thoughts & suggestions. P.S. I found an old rear bearing from a KE30 with JAP banjo diff. It's bearing is the same diameter (62mm) but a little narrower (16mm instead of 21mm) It has 3mm extensions on the centre bearing boss, on both sides, so it is reversible. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I got the local garage with press, to remove the "olde" bearings, so I haven't got them to look at. I definitely remember that they did not have the outer "O" ring seal. I haven't pressed the new bearings onto the axle shalfs as yet, as I'm not sure which way they go. However, I have pressed the bearing into the diff casing, and it all fits perfectly with the bearing just sticking out proud of the diff casing flange, by the amount for the brake backing plate to sit on. One way the hub will be 3mm further out from the diff than the other. Cheers Banjo

Hi Dave, I've never seen a lip seal in any of the KE30 & KE55 Corolla's I've had. Even the "good book" does not depict a seal. I've noticed on searching this forum, that some have made reference to a seal, but what they were really referring to was the gasket between brake backing plate & retaining plate in exploded view above. Cheers Banjo

Hi Guys, Just finishing off a Borg Warner KE55 diff assembly to go under my KE30, so that it has the larger 9" brake drums. Ordered a new set of good "Japanese" brand "sealed" rear wheel bearings, but not sure which way they go on ? The bearings are 62mm OD x 21mm wide, with 29.8mm bore. The bearing itself has an inbuilt "O" ring seal in the outer circumference, as depicted below. My logic tells me the "O" ring side of the bearing would face the hub/outer, so that when you pressed the bearing into the diff casing, the "O" ring would have minimum distance to travel or slide, and therefore have less potential to be damaged. However, the centre part of the bearing is flush with the outer on one side, and sticks out 3mm on the other side. The side where inner & outer are flush is the side the "O" ring is on. (see pictures above) All the KE rear wheel bearings I have used previously, have been reversible, as the inner boss stuck out the same amount on both sides. Maybe it's designed that way to create a 3mm gap between the locking collar & the bearing proper ? Any ideas ? The bearing kit also came with a conventional oil seal. I've changed a few rear wheel bearings on KEs over the years, although the last one was quite a few years ago. I can't remember ever having to replace an oil seal in the diff assembly. I had a look with a torch and there is no where for it to be fitted. There is no where on the axle for the oil seal to make contact, as after the machined section for bearing & locking collar, the shaft is "rough" I did look the catalogue up, & found this bearing set suited other vehicles & makes beside the Corolla. I assume the oil seal is for some other vehicle application, and therefore no applicable when used on the Corolla. Any one come across this before ? I appreciate any ideas or thoughts ! Cheers Banjo

Had someone done work on the engine recently ? Any chance someone had pulled the rocker gear to pieces & reassembled without the rocker shaft springs to keep the rockers apart. That would create problems like you describe. If it fell out after you set the tappet clearance, something is very wrong. The round end on the end of the push rod, and the socket in the rocker are quite deep. They would both have to be very "hammered out", which should be obvious, if the push rods fall out ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Ben, For where you are mechanically, & budget wise, I'd suggest 5K, with 5 speed box, if your existing gearbox is 4 speed. Easy swap, well within your capabilities, with instant improvement. Also a very good starting point, if you want to take it further by upgrading ignition & carby components. The money you have left over should be spent on upgrading front brakes. Also, once you've got the bits & pieces together, it's something you can swap over in a weekend. A swap to another type of engine could have your rolla off the road for weeks/months. Let us know what you decide, and don't forget to take a few pics & post on here. Cheers Banjo

OK ! Get yourself a new set of good quality points & fit. Remove the rotor button. (pull straight up) Set the points so the rubbing block on the points is just touching the "flat section" of the cam on the shaft, & tighten the points adjustment screw. Turn the engine by hand slowly, until the rubbing block is now on the tip of the cam. (max point opening) Measure the gap accurately with feeler guage. If the gap is less than 0.45mm, then the cam on the distributor shaft is too worn, and the dissy should be replaced. If the gap is greater than 0.45mm, then with the rubbing block on the tip of the cam lobe, set the gap to 0.45mm & tighten screw. Turn the engine by hand slowly and measure the points gap accurately on each of the four (4) cam lobe points. If they vary widely in measurement, then the cam is worn, and dizzy should be replaced. Don't forget to smear a fine bit of grease on the cam to prevent the rubbing block & cam lobes wearing during use. The point gap sets the dwell angle, or the period during which the points are closed & current flows through the coil, building up the magnetic flux. If you have a tune-up meter with a dwell measure setting, this is the best way to set the points. The dwell should be about 45 - 50 deg. (good book says 46 deg.) Hope that assists. Cheers Banjo

Sounds like you've tackled the right area, because your description indicates it is possibly a break down of a high voltage component in the ignition system. As you've replaced leads, cap & spark plugs, and the symptoms haven't changed, then it is not one of those. What about the rotor button or the points themselves. If not, then I would be checking that the ignition timing hasn't changed. Other possibility is that the centifugal advance weights in the bottom of the dizzy aren't free, and that the vacumm advance isn't working OK. (lift dizzy cap & suck on rubber line removed from carby, & see if plate rotates slightly) If all else fails, put you head under the bonnet in the pitch dark tonight, with the engine running, and see if you can see any HV breakdowns. There's always the possibility that it is the carby accelerator pump, but your description points clearly towards ignition. Good luck ! Let us know how you go Cheers Banjo

Hi Peter, Agree with everything Altezzaclub says. Best thing you will ever do to your "auto" Rolla, is a manual conversion. Just do it ! It will be like a different car. Probably the very best combo is a 5K, 5 speed KE70 gearbox, and 4.11 manual diff/rear end, with 9" brakes. Quite a straight forward conversion. Plenty of threads on here where all is described. If you have any questions, just let us know, and someone here will help you out. Depending on what model Rolla you have, you might have to open out the tunnel at the rear a little, if you use a 5 speed gearbox with the gear lever right back (KE70). The Meaning of MIRIN MIRIN means "Admiring" Good luck ! Cheers Banjo

Hi Aaron, Looks like it has had a respray, and engine bay painted gloss black ? Has thermofan fitted I presume, as original fan has been removed ? Nice clean engine bay ! Extractors ! Where is the rust coming through ? Rear wheel aches ? What mileage has it got on it ? Original manual or Auto gearbox ? At first glance I would say 2K - 3K. Very dependent on potential buyer interest, and location in NSW. Sydney or elsewhere ? Cheers Banjo

Hi Aaron, 2 door coupe or 4 door sedan ? A few pictures would help, & replace many words. Grab your camera or Smartphone, and load them on here. Cheers Banjo

Hi Jarrod, Just so happened, I've recently removed my BW diff rear end. My spring bolt locating pins are pretty clean, with no rust, so I think the vernier reading I just took, is pretty accurate. They are 14mm, on both sides of the car. I also just got a new set of genuine leaf spring mounting saddle rubbers, and their internal diameter is also 14mm. Hope that helps. Cheers Banjo