sidewz

I took my Zuk out to a farm for the weekend, mucking around with a few mates. This is what it sounds like since the headers and exhaust have gone into it. You can hear it struggling to rev in second in this vid. Ran well for the weekend, but has a flat spot on the primary jet. If I held it enough, the secondries would open ad it would start to really scream just as it ran out of revs. So I pulled the carb down, and managed to get the jets out this time. They were a bit chewed out from mine and others attempts in the past. Primary is a 92, secondary is a 147. So thats the big problem right there, should be a 105 or a 110 as std on the primary from what I read. I'm going to order a bunch of jets to try, maybe start with a 110, and see where I end up. Question: Where can I get new "slow jets" or pilot jets for the stock carb? Its currently got a 45 in there, and I've read people saying its too small for a cam, and to drill it out. Anyone know what size to drill it out to, or if they can be bought? I looked all over the net and can't see any that are quite the same. Cheers Dave

Got my cam in :) Just a nice little lump in the idle. I've got the headers waiting to go on, just need to get it down the exhaust shop and get it welded up to a new exhaust.

Thanks Banjo Cool looking ride, love the KE. I had a ke70 wagon as my first car, loved it! God we went some places in that car! So i've ripped the head off, fixed the snapped head bolt, stuck a few helicoils in the head for the manifold bolts. I've got the cam out, sending that in for a grind tomorrow. I'll get a fast road cam, A2 cosworth I think he suggested. It turns out the cam guy is also a suzuki 4wd nut. what are the odds? I'm ordering a set of headers for it too, to make it go better and also get away from the silly factory exhaust manifold. I found the source of the intake leak, the intake and exhaust manifold ports are no longer on the same plane. #1&2 intake were about 0.5-1mm off the head when the exhaust ports were mated up to the head. This happened even though I reset them only a few months ago. Snapped all the bolts in the hot box doing so, and had to file the old gasket off that was charred on there. The whole hotbox design seems silly and prone to issues..... Anyway. Onwards and upwards. New cam 20thou off the head headers New exhaust. Std single carb for now. I had a look at the carb, and closed up the secondary a bit. I had played with the settings when I did the rebuild, because the secondary was hanging open all the time. I reset the tags then to keep it closed till the primary was open enough. Now I have closed up how much it kicks the secondaries open by, in the hope it will reduce the vacuum seen at the actuator and delay it from working. I'm also keeping an eye out for a weber 28/32 And i need to find a new driveshaft.......

Thanks Banjo I've aske all the local Toyota wreckers, and none have 5k's. I figure that any mods I throw at 4k can be transferred to a 5k later, such as headers, cam, carb . Is that a fair assumption? So i'll just keep an eye out for a 5k....

We had soo much fun in it. Mainly because, we didn't give a f*@k about the truck, and were able to thrash it around tracks we wouldn't normally try. And we made some guys with really big expensive trucks cry. We went places that Safari's with $20k worth of mods couldn't go! Re: 5K. I see that statement around quite often, but I seldom see any 5k's on trademe. Where do you get them in NZ? Re: modding 4k. Cams are easy to get, and reasonable prices. $150+ A suitable weber carb seems harder to find. I don't see many 28/32's. 32/36's are common, but ya'll say they are too big. Re: tuning the current beast. I suspect my flat spot is to do with the secondaries opening too soon. Do any of the Workshop manuals explain the correct setup/gaps for the secondaries on the Aisan carbs?

Righto. Its been a while, but I did manage to get the old pig running nicely (briefly). A big thanks to all that gave advice.... What i eventually did was replace the points with an electronic set, and clean the carb AGAIN. What i ofund this time was bits of airfilter (hks mushroom ) in the fuel bowl and jets. It turns out the filter is disintegrating, and bits were going down the carb. Some were going down the bowl breather tubes and making it into the fuel bowl. It's fair to say it was driving me up the wall :wtf: Heres what it sounded like after all that . Anyway, this was its first proper trip in the mud. My mate had to throw it in 2wd and do some skids to keep his 5yr old happy : You asked for vids, i'm happy to oblige. It goes pretty well, and revs out nicely in the mud, . So nicely that we bought about 100kg of mud home stuck to it. But it has a flat spot mid revs that shows up on the sand, and it struggles to get up in the revs. I've broken it now though. Running on 3 at idle, and a snapped driveshaft :bash: I got the idle issue down to either a vacuum leak at the head on #2 or a blown head gasket. So i got new gaskets for both and ripped the head off. No clear sign of a blown gasket, but #2 cylinder head is much cleaner than the rest. I also snapped a head bolt that was frozen to the head. Bugger! Anyway, that can all be fixed pretty easily. Where do you get new head bolts from for a 4k???? And what am I going to do for some more power??

I saw a massive difference between a new and old thermostat. Chucked them both in a saucepan and brought it up over 82, the new one had about 10mm of travel, where the old one was less than half of that. The main issue right now is the lack of a shroud. Being a Toyota 4k in a Suzuki, it doesn't line up. An electric pusher fan assist should solve that issue.

No, we haven't used it enough to know yet, but it is something that is on my radar. I've put in a brand new thermostat, as the old one wasn't opening much. I may opt for a new bigger radiator, or put a pusher fan on this one to help keep the temp under control. We'll see once I get it out in the mud

Thanks Gavin, Banjo & Altezza. I took your advice, headed back down the fuel blockage route. I pulled the carb off again tonight, and checked the main jets again, all good. I missed the idle jet last time, other than spraying with carby cleaner. I think I cleaned the idle adjust and associated galleries. I pulled out the idle jet and checked it, couldnt see through it. cleaned it out with a mig tip cleaner, soaked it in carby cleaner, then put the tip cleaner through it again and got a bit of varnish out. Now I can see through it :) Now it runs really nicely, much smoother than before. Less hunting at idle than before, and consequently a lower idle. You guys are awesome! Thanks for helping out!!!! I can't wait to get this thing out in the mud!!!!

Sadly, no improvement. I've plugged in the solenoid, but the behaviour is the same. I can hear it click when the ignition turns on. It stinks of a vacuum leak but I don't know where from... Other than just spraying carby cleaner or ether around the carb, how should I chase down the leak?

Thanks Styler, Banjo, Dave. I think you might be onto something Styler, "carby shutoff solenoid". I didn't understand what it was, thought it was a sensor, and its currently unplugged. From what i read now, it will block the idler circuit if not powered up, which could be causing the lean condition. I'm not sure why it would have suddenly stopped, perhaps it was stuck open and has now come loose and closed? I'll pull it out tonight and clean it, see if it moves when powered up. Re the other items: Gas tank/.. It's about 1/4 full, and has a breather, so I don't think that's an issue. Gas flow. I tested that a few days ago, it half filled a jar in 10-20 seconds, so the flow looks ok, but I don't have a pressure tester. there is plenty of fuel atomising in the top venturi when I open the throttle, so fuel supply to the carb seems ok, it seems to be the mixture is bad. Compression tested up a few weeks ago, 165-170psi across all. Points & condenser. Haven't replaced those, i am hoping to get a solid state replacement, or even move to a full HEI dizzy. Plug leads. Still waiting on a new set. The current ones don't look great. PCV. I blocked that off because it seems to stick open. I just need to sort a catch can & filter as you said. Vacuum advance. I have struggled to find out which is the right place is to connect it. Last night I ran it off the #1 intake manifold port as part of my testing, but I have been running it from the lowest port on the carb, which is where the blue vac tube is connected in the photo above. If anyone can confirm if that's right or wrong that would be awesome! Here's hoping its the shutoff solenoid!! Thanks Dave

Hi I've got a 4k in my bitza offroader. Its an old Suzuki lj81 running a 4k and k40 box, I picked it up recently , it was running pretty rough, so I have been working through usual maintenance, and had it running fairly well up until this weekend. All of a sudden it started running rough and died. It will start and run on choke, but dies when the choke is off, even if I work the pump. Heres what I've done so far. New plugs, gapped 0.8 Cleaned & lubed dizzy. set points .45 Timing set at around 10deg with the vacuum disconnected. Dwell reports as 45Deg. New coil. 12V no ballast. Carb rebuild. Cleaned and put most of the parts from a rebuild kit into the carb. Gaskets, pump, needle valve, reset the float and stop. New intake/exhaust manifold. Released the hotbox bolts to get the intake and exhaust to makte up nicely onto the block. New vacuum hose for vac advance Blocked off other vacuum ports with new hose. New fuel filter Its been running nicely since all that, but it died suddenly. Nicely. Rough. I have checked these things.. Spark. Still got spark. Plugs are white. can't find a vacuum leak. Blocked all pipes. Took the brake booster hose off. Sprayed carb cleaner everywhere, can't hear it rev up. Disconnected the vac advance and blocked. Took the carb off, cleaned it again and checked that no jets are blocked. I've run out of ideas. can anyone tell me what else I might me missing? Thanks in advance. Dave