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Jansku99 last won the day on December 27 2018

Jansku99 had the most liked content!

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About Jansku99

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  • Birthday 09/19/1992

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    Repairing my KE15 Sprinter

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  1. Hello. As background information, I live in Finland so all cars is question are European Spec. I'm thinking of upgrading my 4A-FE (from 1993 Carina E, same as the one from Corolla AE100, with Denso distributor) with bottom end from 1998 Avensis AT221. Basicly making Celica AT200 7A-FE engine on tight budget. Carina E 7A-FE would also be available, but they are Lean Burn engines so they have different heads as they have flaps in intake. I don't know if old style intake would even fit and is the head flowing as good as older one? Can 4A-FE ECU control increased capacity correctly or do I have to find AT200 Celica ECU? Are injectors with same resistance and do they fit or do I have to find Celica injectors too? How about camshaft profiles and combustion chambers in pistons and heads, basicly how much does compression ratio change and do valves have enough room to open correctly? Celica Carina and Avensis have different part numbers for pistons. Conrods are same between Avensis and Carina E 7A-FE but not the same in Celica. You have to use 7A-FE pistons as piston pin is 2mm larger than 4A-FE pin. You cannot use Avensis head as it does not have place for distributor. AT200 7A-FE head is the same part number as 4A-FE Carina E head. Problem is that AT200 Celica engines are hard to find and expensive in Finland, but Avensis wrecks are found everywhere and cost almost nothing. So my question is basicly if difference between Carina 4A-FE and Avensis 7A-FE is made mechanically by changing port/valve sizes and angles and/or camshaft profiles/lift in the head to reduce emissions and lower power or is it all made electrically in ECU and with intake and exhaust profiles? And yes, 7A-GE would be nice but idea is to retain 4A-FE stock engine management and keep the car "daily driven". I have multiple 4A-FE heads but no 7A-FE bottom ends, I would like to know which one I have to find. I'm thinking about few different engines so this information is for future build.
  2. Well, now I have some information. CE70 wagon S-series rear axle is 1405mm wide from wheel mounting face to face so Volvo 240 axle is perfect. With tailshaft it is another story. It has to be shortened by 20mm so it is easier to find 240 Volvo tailshaft rear piece and take them to someone who has tools to join them and get them balanced.
  3. Hi. Reason for this question is that next time I can access my CE70 diesel van (Actually it originally was wagon, so it has 5 doors and windows in back. Just has rear seats removed for lower taxes as Cargo vehicle. Has S-series diff still) is Sunday and I need information to try to get correct parts. Is wagon/van axle same length as sedan axle? Has someone got list of different tailshaft lengths, would help trying to find correct one? Here in Finland we got U-series in every KE70 and S-series in CE70 and TE71. No BorgWarner's here
  4. Hi. I'm going to change CE70 van S-series rear axle to early Volvo 240 axle. Now I'm after the measurement from wheel mounting face to face on Corolla's axle (Volvo 240 is 1410mm) and if someone has done this conversion? How about tailshaft lengths? Do I need to change rear half of it (= Is Volvo 240 diff nose longer than S-series diff nose)? Are tailshaft rear half's different between KE70 sedan with U-series, KE70 wagon with U-series and CE70 van with S-series? Thanks again!
  5. HI. Has anyone done 4A-FE with K40 gearbox? What has to be done or can it be done at all? Do crankshaft and gearbox axles line up?
  6. Hi guys! I'm thinking about buying 2T engine for my Daihatsu Charmant (KE70 with different body) and put 3T crankshaft to it. Would be easier to just buy 3T - I know - but here in Finland the vehicle inspection has to be done once in a year and it's hard to transfer 4K to 3T leagally. I tried to find info about 2T with 3T crank conversion, I know that I may need to grind some room to block as rod bolts with older model 2T block will hit sidewalls. I also know that rods are same and pistons are not as 3T pistons have different (Lower or Higher?) pin height. What I don't know is should I get 3T pistons too or would 2T pistons work with 3T crank? If I do have to get 3T pistons, do I have to modify them to fit 2T head? If there is something else to take into consideration, please tell me. Of course there would be 3T-G hybrid conversion if I manage to find 2T-G cheap from Finland... =/ Thank you already!
  7. When we last adjusted it my co-worker said that it will not be perfect as gears are worn. Bearings were good. This was 2 years ago.
  8. Hi. Old KE15 Diff (Is it B-series? 5,7"?) is making a lot of noise again and i'm out of diffs. Is there other diff's that will bolt straight in with original axle? I don't want to change bolt pattern for the wheels as I have rare and cool 4x110 wheels already. With a little thinking, KE2x diff should be same as KE1x, right? Plenty of those at Finland. I heard rumours of KE7x or KP61 Starlet's U-series 6" fitting in with original axle and driveshafts but as original diff is smaller, isn't it going to hit housing? U-series would be stronger and I think it would lower revs too. Thank you already!
  9. Hi. I bought used K motor electronic distributor with no cap and rotor. Seller said that it was from 5K engine so I bought Liteace cap and rotor but cap doesn't seem to fit. It is too low, same thing as with 4K distributor cap. Does anyone have same problem? I'd like to know where to get cap that fits. Does anyone know if this distributor is from Japan models or something like that? Then I could go to buy it straight from Toyota if I knew the model. Some guy said that his Liteace distributor looked different. Thanks already!
  10. My hydraulic ones seemed to be broken, one valve had got "flat" from top as clearence had been wrong for long time. Had valve job done anyway as I took whole head to resurfacing. So I change to solids to prevent this from happening again. I'm building reliable engine to my summer car, KE15 Sprinter Corolla. I never ran this engine, just bought it and took it apart - And good thing that I did... It had been in "youth-crapheap-city-racer" KE70 Corolla at some point and it shows. Originally imported from Japan.
  11. But as the lifters move up and down, wont the holes get alined?
  12. Hi! I have "Twin-Squish" 5K with hydraulic Lifters. I bought 13751-61020 OEM lifters from Toyota dealership. Now I'm wondering that they have huge oil holes in side of the lifters (for oil to get out from the lifter after coming down from the head) and as I had hydraulic lifters, should I block that oil feed to prevent oil pressure from dropping? Wont it push oil IN to the lifter from that huge side hole rather than let oil come OUT? If I block that oil feed, do the lifters have enough lubrication? From small bolt at the side of the block you can block oil feed to the side of the lifters - If I'm correct? How have you done it? By longer bolt? How long bolt you have used, too long and you lose oil feed to head... Is the hole threaded long enough or do you have to make longer thread? Thank you already!
  13. Toyodiy doesn't show lenghts, but Japan KE70 with 4K-U engine shows part number: ROD, VALVE PUSH 13781-13010 It cross-references to other Japan models with 4K-U and 4k-J engines. European models INCLUDE Liteace with 5K, KE70 Corolla's with 4K and Starlets with 4K. Shows 3F 13751-61020 lifter there too, so I think that it's the right one. When I go to work next week I will ask from our parts vendor - I work at Toyota dealership as mecanic - If they are still avaible from Toyota or do I really have to pay 150€ for custom-made pushrods from Esa Peltonen... How about camsafts, are there differences with hydro and solid cams? If there is, what is different between them? I managed to scrape outer camshaft bearing a little during disassembly, how do you change them as they are in the cylinder block? I assume that there must be some kind of special tool for that as they need to be straight and in correct place? Or should I just ignore that one scratch, maybe sand it down a little with 1000p sandpaper? Thanks already! -Jansku99
  14. Hi! I have D shaped pistons and head with lugs under 1 & 4 cylinders. I'm doing solid 3F lifter conversion and need pushrod lenght and original parts number for that pushrod. Heard that it was same as 4K-u? We don't have 4K-u's here in Finland so that is why I need parts number to order from Toyota. Will 3K or 4K rockers work? Thank you already! -Jansku99
  15. Here in Finland 5K's are a bit hard to get as they only came in few LiteAce's and rallyguys want them for their Starlet's. 7K's are all import motors from Japan -> Impossible to get cheap. They cost around 1200euros (Condition unknown) so you can get 5K cheaper. I think I will go for 5K if there are no big differences between 5K and 7K when driven as there are plenty of parts avaible for 5K here in Finland. For 7K you have to order from eBay... When I find cheap 5K I will tear it apart, buy full set of gaskets (I work at Toyota dealership garage so I get little discount ;) ) and toss away those hydraulic lifters. Will hard lifers with rods from 3K or 4K work? I heard that hydraulic ones cause problems... Maybe fit in 3K head (The one without that "plate" at the back of the head, I think that they had bigger ports already? Someone told me that they also had more material to carve if I have it ported?) and 3K-B twin carbs as I have the carbs already. Which is the best head for 5K? I know thet there are at least 2 kind of 5K's - With flat and carved pistons. That is not a problem if they are interchageable. And of course there are always race parts avaible from Esa Peltonen ;) . How about rear diff? Is stock one going to hold or break if stock or mildly tuned 5K is planted under the hood if driven normally? Are there any "bolt on" types of stronger rear diffs (with longer diff ratio?)?. How about reliability of K50 gearbox with 5K engine? A lot of questions again, sorry for that. I'm a bit newbie ;) - Jansku99
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