rebuilder86

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rebuilder86 last won the day on January 17

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About rebuilder86

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    Jeremy

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  1. KE55 Electronic Ignition Module

    graeme i think shes trying to get u to buy her a new carr!!!! :P If not, and she really had a temperemental no crank situation, the only thing I can think of is when u removed the negative battery terminal to install the accuspark, that u may have introduced a situation I have experienced a few times; the negative battery terminal doesnt conduct electricity when asked to suply a large current, but only sometimes when cold. For me I found it to be from constant connecting and disconnecting of the negative terminal, which seems to kind of encourage that white lead corrosion, at first i thought it was in the usual place, where the terminal clamps around the battery lug, but then i learned it was the copper wires in the terminal crimp which just sometimes don't want to supply any current at all, even to the solenoid.
  2. Ae71 4ac idling rough

    Oh thats excelent mate. So stoked it was that simple.
  3. Ae71 4ac idling rough

    read this about the 4AC carb http://members.toast.net/ahines/Carbie_notes.htm
  4. Ae71 4ac idling rough

    yep definitely need to clean out the idle circuit one thing u can attempt, is to undo the idle mixtrue screw,, and spray carb cleaner through that wiht as much pressure as possible. that may push the particles back out the jet into the float bowl, but its likely itl jstu end up back in there. Take the top of the carby off, find the slow jet which is visible top down, this diagram is drawn as if the 2 sides of the carb are cut in half and pivoted around the centre, for clarity. If u take the top off the carb, the idle jet is visible and is orientated as shown in the diagram. Up down. wheras all other jets (except the power jet in the middle of the float bowl) are sideways. The idle fule, must pass through the primary main jet before it is alowed to pass up through the idle jet, where it is then mixed with idle bleed air. there is also a secondary slow jet, and this wil be on the same side of the carb as the secondary barrel. don't worry abotu that one so much. To get the slow jet ut, undo it with a screwdriver, then stick a pin down the centre of it and try to angle the pin so it grabs onto the wals of the jet and pull it up. When its out, spray everythign with carby cleaner adn blow ackwards through the jet to clear it out.
  5. Ae71 4ac idling rough

    the fact u can screw the idle mixture screw all the way in, means its running off the primary main jet instead of the idle circuit and slow jet. This is a problem. It needs the choke because at idle, the suction is normally caused by static pressure suction, and there is none of this at the primary main jet, unless the choke flap closes. Sowaht you need, is to check the idle circuit is operating. The little solenoid on the side of the carb, next to the choke system, should click when the cars igniton is turned to on. If not, somethign is wrong with the solenoid or the electrics. If it does click, then u can suspect hat the carburettr idle circuit is blocked. This is very common, as the jet for the slow idle circuit is incredibly small, and one piece of rubber from a fuel hose deteriorating is enough to completely block it. i suspect if u take the air filter off, and look down the carb with the engine idling, push the choke flap open quickly, u will see fuel running out of the main jet onto the throttle flap. If u see this, then thats the probem. The idle circuit needs to be repaired and the base idle screw set back to near closed.
  6. Oil pump failure

    hahah i would never have thoguht of clark rubber. i thought they sold pool noodles and mattresses haha I'm starting to feel like I'm very lazy, u knwo what i wouldve done....Ziptied it
  7. Oil filter w anti siphon, no such thing

    Yeh mate i tried the parts guys at SCA also but they didnt even have the ability to search for a text string in their product database. Z423 it is!!
  8. Oil filter w anti siphon, no such thing

    siiiiiick. u champion. haha i was so close to emailing them actually. but the way u worded it to them like, representing a community; is brilliant. I found it by searching for this text string on google "ryco oil filter with anti syphon valve" Page 2 of results for me had this summary text.. " www.alfaclubvic.org.au › ... › Technical › 900 Series (Alfasud, Alfasud Sprint, 33) Oct 29, 2013 - Re: Oil filter for 1988 33 1.7ie 8V. « Reply #3 on: October 30, 2013, 12:24:43 AM ». $55! What filter was that? Ryco lists a Z421 which has an anti siphon valve. Z89A is the same but without ASV. These are the big filters. There are small filters that match up also Z418 (without ASV), Z614 (with ASV). The list ..." http://www.alfaclubvic.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=11524.0 Then i checked the ryco cataloge adn found the dimensions were good enough for me.
  9. Oil filter w anti siphon, no such thing

    Unfortunately supershit doeant stock the Z421 so there are no oil filters on the shelf with an anti syphone valve. This is the std 4k one, Z68. (see pic) U can see right through to the filter media. I suspect there is enough clearance in the crankshaft oil galleries for oil to just exit through the engine. I will have to special order a Z421, but not until i hav confirmation that they really do have both valves.
  10. Oil filter w anti siphon, no such thing

    Ubdont have to cut one open. U can see both from the opening. Antidrain is the ring around the outside (inlet) and the antisyphon is the little valve immediately inside the centre outlet, and if it has one, u wouldnt be able to see the filter material. The latter is not on any ryco z68. So that thread u posted has some incorrect info in there. As for that little bit of info on this thread about all the valve types. That description of the anti syphon clears it up. I am loosing oil from the filter every night with a rubber anti drain valve. I will try this Z421 and let u know how it goes, in three months when I'm back in philippines. It could just be that all the cheap filters we get there are just junk and have crap anti drain valves, but when i took the filter off one morning, it was empty and so was the outlet side pipe on the engine. So that kind of indicates that i may be loosing oil through the outlet side. ie, syphoning, similar to what that FRAM info talks about with the turbo return line sucking the oil out. Speaking of which, i recently got an old 1999 ford transit turbo diesel and the filter is mounted sideways. Il be doing an oil and filter change soon so when i do il see if i can cut it up n take a photo of the valve. Heres what an anti syphon valve looks like. Look in the middle.
  11. Oil filter w anti siphon, no such thing

    All filters have the anti drain back valve in the inlet. I was led to believe, some time ago, on this forum, that i may need the anti syphon valve aswell. This prompted me to research into it, and found that oil can still drain out through the outlet due to the height of the oil in the filter, compared to the height of the crankshaft and its oil galleries. This is why its called anti syphin. Go check out the link and read it, its for inverted filter layout, like our 4k, not upright layouts. It doesnt mean "anti syphoning out the top of the filter". Not sure what ur point was banjo. Anti syphon is exactly what we need. I think ive found one now. The only one in the ryco range with the anti syphon valve. Ryco z421. I'm going to get itbn see if it helps!
  12. Oil pump failure

    hahah wow u went to some SERIOUS efforts to edit that photo :P haahah I havent got a cowling on my jeep, and the only overheating ive had with its marginally performing cooling system has been under power going up hill at speed with plenty of airflow.. Its never overheated in traffic, and trust me, traffic is a daily thing where i live, in fact the worst traffic on planet earth...... http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/815278/traffic-app-waze-names-cebu-as-worst-city-to-drive-in
  13. So I'm back in oz, and ive discovered tgat all this talk about a special filter with a special valve is all horseahit. All filters have anti drainback valve, some rubber, some silicone (better). But none of rycos filters on the shelf at supershit had an anti syphon valve as illustrated in their technical bulletin here: (page 2) https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.rycofilters.com.au/library/news/oil_filter_valves_technical_tips.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwiwwefq37nZAhUGpJQKHXdJC8wQFjACegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1jIg5nE8qrCLEBwnZnVYLe Not a single filter had the anti syphon valve, and not a single filter doesnt have the anti drainback valve. Theyre all ezactly the same as the one i have in my engine now which suffers frim 5-8 second oil pressure delay after a cold start and the filter is always empty when i do a filter change (cold).
  14. Oil pump failure

    I don't beleive those readings. Is it possible to swap the temp sensor probes from front to rear around and test again, just in case the rear one is calibrated differently? or are they different threads? Then again, coolant that gets to the front, has in theory been exposed to the heat for longer with the new modified gaskets as it goes from the rear to the front of the head. The coolant going out the back has just come up from the block and gets to exit before it gets the opportunity to suck any more heat out the head. Its the difference in the actual head temp (between front n rear) that concerns me. notreally the coolant as such. It think... all the holes in the gasket should be drilled out, and the rear of the head should have another thermostat and coolant exit the same size as the front one. haha
  15. Lower Temperature Thermostat

    here u go dood. Tridon do have the 71 degrees one. part number is TT240-160 FYI, all these will fit the k series... Temp. Part No. 71°C TT240-160 82°C TT240-180 89°C TT240-192 https://automotivesuperstore.com.au/tridon-tt240-160 $16