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Papay

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Papay last won the day on June 3

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About Papay

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    Scott

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  1. Check this out, for sale online. Anyone ever see one or get their hands on one? Kinda curious if any improvements.
  2. Should I be concerned that milling 0.5mm or so from the head will affect the rocker geometry? Would the pushrods normally be shortened to match?
  3. Have already purchased all the new bolts I could source for the head. Today I bought valves, valve stem seals, and valve guides at the local parts shop. They didn't have valve seats in stock, I figure I can get them from the machine shop. What else is recommended in a head rebuild? Springs, keepers, etc?
  4. What's the recommended method for removing the whitish (calcium?) deposits all through the water passages? Should I expect the machine shop to have a process for this, or need to soak it in something first, etc? Also, I like the way they just welded up the holes around #2 there.
  5. OK finally got around to removing the gasket and cleaning up the surface a bit. Head shows previous repairs, JB-weld type repairs, around the corroded water jacket holes on #4 and a little bit on #3. Surface seems to have never been skimmed. When I was at the machine shop they were adding weld material to another 5K head, so it seems to be pretty standard procedure. Its amazing how blocked the #4 passages were.
  6. Head arrived yesterday, haven't had a chance to unpack it yet. Went to look at a 5K short block today, still had 80.5 bores. Probably will pick it up for about $140 AUS.
  7. Supposedly 4age pistons and/or rods can work, but i'm going to have to do some careful research and math before buying anything. Speaking of the manifolds, has anyone on here experimented with making a phenolic spacer insulator between them? I'm not interested in quick warmup, just reducing heat transfer.
  8. Well I may not give them that much credit...this is Philippines, they are more aligned with doing it the cheapest way rather than the best way. To give you an example, when I visited the machine shop to get a rough estimate, they assumed I would want to sleeve the block. Why? Because then I could use cheaper stock sized pistons. I was like WTF? Sleeving seems like a hell of a lot of work and I'm not sure I would trust the outcome. Anyway, being judicious and making proper plans is where I am at the moment. So sourcing some proper 81mm pistons is going to be part of this, but right now just focusing on the immediate need which is the head gasket, and hence the head itself. Since I don't have much space to work, I find it wise to do all the necessary stuff on a separate head, then just swap it on. Later I'll acquire a block and build it up with proper balancing and a healthy cam, etc. What is the particular advantage of the single piece gasket? I was curious why the gaskets came split. The single piece ones do look meatier. Ive already acquired an extra dual plane exhaust mani and intake manifold, so the plan is to shave them down together and match ports as you suggest. Getting a proper downpipe made might be a bit of a trick. Any recommendation for valve springs? This won't be a race car, just thinking ahead.
  9. These engines are quite popular where I live, and I'm betting the machine shop has a standard refurb sequence. I'll to the initial cleanup on it and CC the chambers to see what I'm working with.
  10. Great, that's the answer I was looking for. I know there is some confusion about casting numbers and exterior bumps, so I wanted to be sure. Any problem skimming a 0.5 to 1.0mm on a 5K? I was thinking they already had 10.5:1 compression, does that sound right? Will see how bad the water jacket corrosion is after it arrives I guess.
  11. I'm getting ready to sort out the head gasket leak on the Papay van, so I acquired this head online. It was advertised as a 5K, although I don't really know if I could spot the difference. For what its worth, it has the same '100' casting as the head on my 5K engine right now. Have also ordered a Toyota head gasket, new head bolts, and other hardware in anticipation of the project.
  12. Speaking of which, we just had the plugs out and cleaned them over the weekend. Everything looked good there, but at the time I wasn't looking specifically for signs. The Welsh plugs are a good thought, I remember reading about issues with those in other threads. Here are the part numbers I have on my "may need to order this" list: 96412-01800 front freeze plug (sm) 96411-43500 side freeze plugs (3) 96432-23814 rear freeze plug (#1, lg) 96411-44500 rear freeze plug (#2 ,lg) I remember as a kid helping my Dad work on his Mopars, and we always replaced the steel plugs with brass ones to prevent future rust. Is this an option with Toyotas?
  13. Well, trip over the mountain yesterday was uneventful. Temps never even reached the half-way mark, through some fairly steep climbs. After we reached our destination, we stopped for a bit so I decided to check the water level. Overflow bottle still full, but the radiator was down about half a liter from where we started. So yeah, I'm suspecting a bad head gasket at this point. Now I'm thinking the kind of 'chuffly' sound this van makes is not just a leaky exhaust, its probably the head gasket. At least nothing is getting into the oil. Gotta say, for a 25 year old pushrod engine, this little lump amazes me. It runs incredibly smooth, oil stays really clean, no tapping noises or slop, etc.
  14. I already put in a brand new Evercool 3-row radiator (not sure where made). It runs cool as a stone around town, so I think the thermal capability is pretty good overall. Two observations made since yesterday which concern me: 1) a kind of milky slime in the t-stat housing, 2) white smoke from the exhaust at higher rpms. So I'm thinking a new head gasket may be in store.
  15. Confirmed no t-stat installed. Spent the better part of the afternoon with my father in law making a bracket to hang the overflow bottle, Philippine style. Yes you are correct, no coolant until I can keep everything in the system haha. After installing and filling the overflow bottle, we took it for an extended drive with no issues. Today was cooler, however, but tomorrow is a trip over the mountain. Fingers crossed..... My theory is the weight of the water in the bottle would serve to prevent casual splashing at the neck from getting through the overflow tube -- it has a volume of water pushing back against it. Will keep an eye on things and plan to install a thermostat. Would like to find a 'natural' coolant if anyone has any suggestions. Not that I am against paying for coolant, but many times where I live things are not as available as I would like them to be. The block was surprisingly clean when I had the water pump off, after running straight water for who knows how long.
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