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  1. Thanks altezza! Looks like the ra60 is the way to go. Seems like the cheapest way to get a t series. That paired with a cusco wont cost me ae86 money. Before I buy i will do some measurements on tarago diffs, as i heard they are a good option. Cheers!
  2. Hello corolla people! I have recently acquired another corolla, an ae71 auto sedan. Currently has a borgie in it. I have got some very nice shockworks suspension on the way and chasing the last few manual parts to swap into the vehicle. I want to eventually fit a lsd rear in the vehicle. Currently getting parts, (and money), for a efi smallport 4age swap. I know the borgs don't support lsds, so a new diff is needed! I have done a fair amount of research and commonly people suggest slapping in a japan spec T-series from a Corolla. However, those are few and far between and are costly to import and or purchase locally. T-18 diffs are also out of the question, until one pops up for cheap with the diff still in it. This smallport is going to make 100-120kw max. I'm not going crazy here, and I don't to weld the current diff, as it gets driven daily. I have been told a hilux diff and a F-series diff are heavy and very very overkill. Is there another reasonably cost effective alternative with lsd options? I read a fantastic thread from altezzaclub of a RA60 T-series being put in a KE70. What lsds would suit that? I have heard its the zenki ae86 ones but am unsure! Thank you for your time. Cheers, Luca
  3. Hi there guys Didn't get a chance to fiddle some more with the engine today, hoping tomorrow morning I get some time. Ah yes, I did that and it still runs the same. Yes, this manifold looks new but is used. The vacuum connection is for the brake booster. I have a T-piece between the intake manifold and the booster that splits the line into the PCV value. Just checked, but the hole is drilled out also. Will bring some more information to the table tomorrow. KInd regards
  4. Hi Banjo! Thanks for your reply Just want to clarify, is the pickup clamp on the timing light the inductive clamp that goes around the spark plug lead? Ill give this a go this afternoon and see what the story is. Hopefully its good news. Kind regards
  5. What are your thoughts on the fact that it does seem to be at 8 degrees BTDC with the light shining on the crank pulley, but still doesnt act correctly? Before I filmed that clip, I balanced carb butterflies and reset the baseline tune.
  6. Hi Banjo, sorry! I didn't see your message earlier, we had a wicked storm pass through and I had to rush around to get things inside. The timing chain and alignment was done by me, the chain was upgraded to a double row. The crankshaft keyway was 90 degrees and all the dots lined up where they should be against the pulley when the engine was at 0 degrees TDC. I thought today that the thrust cam plate was put backwards, but I just checked my photos and it looks like it was correct. If the thrust plate was fitted backwards, would this cause issues such as what I am experiencing? Or is it impossible to fit the plate backwards and have the cam sprocket spin? I am unsure of what the dizzy advance/retard protusion looks like on the dizzy? I tried to find more information on google but nothing seems helpful. Standard 5k cam. I will give it another go tomorrow. Looking forward to getting this right. Thanks again for all your help Banjo and Altezza Kind regards
  7. Hey Banjo! I'm thinking the best course of action for me is to rip out the engine and check the cam timing again and go through the list as you have stated. The crank keyway and the cam location pin for the cam sprocket are still there, and from memory the cam timing is perfect. However, I don't believe I aligned the camshaft thrust plate with the camshaft pin come to think of it. I have attempted all of the different ways to set the dizzy, and made sure every step was done perfectly. I gave the carbs a baseline tune also. Here is a video of where I am currently. https://imgur.com/gallery/qJqkCwF Whats odd to me, is that shining the timing light on the crank pulley shows the timing line jump around between 0 degrees and 10 degrees on the cam cover. Would this be indicative of the chain slipping? Also, would the issues I am having with timing be effected by the grounding on the distributor? I have noticed that when the distributor is turned, the plastic bit on the outside of the dizzy that holds the ground in place sometimes sparks on the metal part of the heater hose. Its becoming more prevalent that the engine must come out to be inspected again. As well, if you are ever in noosa, give me a shout, I love to talk corollas Kind regards
  8. Yes, this is exactly what I have just done. Hurrah! I just need to tune the carbs now and I think we are away
  9. Yes, I was timing it the opposite to what you have described. I was turning the dizzy clockwise instead of anti-clockwise. I think I have it timed correctly now, as the timing line is highlighted at 10 degrees on the pulley (even though it says like 90 degrees on the digital timing light readout) but I believe with my carbs the baseline idle that came with them is messed up. Checking it now
  10. Ill check today if the carb butterflies click. Very sure that they do, but will check. The rotor does turn clockwise, however, I think I have been setting the points on the beginning of the peak, and not on the ending like in the picture. Ill check the weights again today. My current suspicion is that I need to move the distributor a few gears and recheck the points. Regards
  11. There's defiantly a leak. There is a leak from where the exhaust manifold meets the head in the middle. Need to fix with a one piece head gasket and some studs, temporarily added a small amount of sealer. Checked to see if there was a leak around the carbs by spraying some carb cleaner and seeing if the revs increase. No dice, so should be fine there. I will check again with the tube however. Unsure what you mean about the vacuum advance hose still being on? From my understanding, there isn't a vacuum advance connected. The weber carbs don't have a port for that and there isn't anything coming off the vac advance unit on the dizzy. Let me know if I'm missing anything! Attached is a pic of the engine bay, it is a month old or so, but basically the same as what I am running now: The port on the intake is for the brake booster. It runs into the brake booster and the pcv valve. Kind regards
  12. I have a strong suspicion that this will fix the problems I am having. Thanks Banjo, I will update you on the happenings next!
  13. Hi Banjo! Hope everything is well. Here is a video of the engine at 60 degrees as per my timing light. https://imgur.com/gallery/tDvcryB I believe my timing light is one where I can advance the timing. Attached is some of the spec sheet. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/193986903358 When the engine was on the firing stroke of cyl #1, the inlet retracted fully a 1/4 of the pulley diameter before hitting TDC, which I believe is normal. It lined up perfectly on the timing chain cover. How would I go about moving the distributor a few teeth back? Unsure what that would look like. When the engine was disassembled, I made sure that the timing chain and all its bits were in the correct position. Positive thats all good there thank goodness! I also do have a new dizzy cap, would you think that would fail? I should also mention, that the engine does rev hang, and takes a few seconds to return to idle from 3000 rpm. Seems to be no intake leaks, tested with a can of carb cleaner Kind regards
  14. Hello again! It has been a few weeks, I spent the last twoish months chasing down clutch related issues with the car and taking some time off. Back at it with some timing issues! The engine runs well however, when using a timing light, it indicates that the car is 60 degrees out of time. Idles fine, but when you give it some revs, it backfires slightly out the carbs sometimes. Try to drive it and give it load, and it will just stall out. The revs also hang, but there aren't any intake leaks. Checked that with some carby cleaner Tried to adjust the timing, by rotating the distributor, to get it to 8 degrees and when doing so, it slows and begins to stall around 50-40 degrees. What I have done: firing order is 1342. points gap is around 0.4mm checked cyl #1 is firing via the inlet rocker turned the crank to 10 degrees BTDC on the cam cover turned ignition on, moved the dizzy back and forth so that the points just spark where ever the points are sparking, set that to cyl #1 checked firing order again. Things to note: I have not properly tuned my carbs. The 5k is running the stock 4k dizzy and coil. New cap, leads and NGK BP5EY plugs. What am I missing here? Kind regards
  15. Can confirm. Every part will bolt on from a 4k to a 5k. Just finished a swap from a 4k to a 5k. Piss easy to swap everything (in retrospective)
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