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LucaKE

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Everything posted by LucaKE

  1. Can confirm. Every part will bolt on from a 4k to a 5k. Just finished a swap from a 4k to a 5k. Piss easy to swap everything (in retrospective)
  2. Hmm. My car is a factory manual, so its definately not any funny auto nonsense. From memory it does go back into the main wiring harness into the dash. I will go investigate this weekend. I don't have a timing light on me, but its on the list of things to borrow from a friend. Thanks for the timing tips! I will use those. Yeah, that connection puzzled me as well. I will investigate further. Cheers for all your help guys!
  3. Interesting, I did not know that! Yes, the 4 posts in the old cap were very, very corroded. Sanding the posts with sandpaper didn't reveal any metal. Now that the car runs, I'm very keen to start all the smaller items on my checklist. Did you have any thoughts on the two questions in the post above? Thanks Banjo!
  4. Hello guys! It has been a minute since my last update, lots of things have happened! I was sick for a week and wasn't able to progress on the car. Got the new cap, fitted it and played around with the timing. It still didn't have any spark at this point. I read somewhere that when the dizzy timing is so off, that the spark can happen between the "points" on the cap and show the symptoms of no spark. So I set the engine to TDC and played around with the timing, and wouldnt you know it, look what happened. https://imgur.com/gallery/yqYHoil I have not set the timing or idle properly yet (or an exhaust for that matter) so it may seem off. I am also wondering where these connections go? I couldn't remember where the ground grounds and where the other connection goes. Also, how can you tell if the water pump is working? Cheers, Luca
  5. Had a go this morning! I purchased a new ignition lead and spark plug leads. The points spark when the ignition is on when moved by a flathead, and so does the ignition lead coming from the coil when held near the chassis. Good news! I put it all back together, and pulled a spark plug out to check to see if it sparks. Still nothing. I cleaned the rotor up and it looks good, but the cap looks worse for wear. The "metal inlets" where the tip of the rotor passes by are fully corroded. I didn't notice it earlier. Ordered a new cap and It will be here on monday. I will test it next week!
  6. wow! This is such an amazingly documented build Banjo! I'm excited to see this fire up and see the difference between standard and an EFI system!
  7. Thanks Altezza! I will have a go this week! Hopefully I will be able to upload that video of the car running soon!
  8. Update! Gave my battery a good overnight charge, and finished up a few things on the Rolla before cranking it today! It gets oil pressure! Super quick too! Fuel was getting pumped through by the pump, but there is no spark! Replaced the leads (couldn't find a cap near me in stock) no change! My suspicion is the ignition coil has given up the ghost. Whats the best way to diagnose the spark system? Side note, is it worth it to move to an electronic distributor system?
  9. This is the guy you need to talk to! https://www.facebook.com/KeConversions
  10. Thanks Banjo! Yes its a great feeling! Was worried some of the oil lines in the block were corroded away somehow. Thank goodness I am incorrect. I am currently located in Noosa Heads QLD!
  11. Good news everyone! Oil comes through the oilway! I slowly turned the crank whilst pumping the pump and eventually I saw oil is going up the oilway! My relief was immense when I saw the oil come through. I have put the head on and torqued it down to spec. I then spun the oil pump again and wouldn't ya know it, oil comes through to the head! I think my little 5k has oil pressure fellas! Thanks again for all your help Banjo and Altezzaclub! I would have been very stuck without it! Hopefully when I crank the engine over this weekend, the engine gains oil pressure!
  12. Thanks Banjo! Thats a great picture! I will investigate in the morning!
  13. Hi Banjo! Thanks again for being great help! Yes, it is possible to crank the engine over by the starter! I have just been diagnosing by hand! So, to confirm, I should have been cranking the engine over via the starter or by hand to see oil squirt out of the oilway?
  14. Hmm. I double checked the timing chain recently and it was working as expected, so I am unsure that its the culprit. Would it be worth it to swap the filter for the Z423 filter anyway? Since oil is flowing into the sensor, I think I will technically have oil pressure, but there is still nothing going to the head. This is a quote from 2005 Banjo on the thread you sent me, and gave me a bit of hope! "The way I understand it, the oil feed to the rocker shaft is at a reduced pressure, and not at full engine oil pressure. The oil feed to the rocker pedestal & top of engine is fed via the second front camshaft journal. This journal has a hole right through it, so oil is only fed to the top of the engine when the hole in the journal lines up with oil holes in the block, which I presume is once or twice every camshaft rotation. The yellow Toyota engine bible has a picture of the lubrication system circulation that depicts just that." So, my thinking is, have someone with the drill turning the pump whilst I turn the engine over and see if oil squirts out the top. Correct me if I'm wrong! Also, is there some sort of PDF download of the Yellow Toyota bible? I would love to check the lubrication system to be 100% sure! Was a great read! Thanks again for all your help!
  15. Hey Banjo, I have a brand spankin new Ryco z386 filter installed currently! The 5k does have a solid lifter conversion! Its running Holden 202 lifters, 1200 pushrods and 4k rocker gear. I chose to do this swap because its a 4k head on a 5k, and the original 5k pushrods were way too short for the rocker gear. Because the head has been taken off, it shouldn't matter what the lifter/rocker setup is, because no oil is being pushed through the oilway to the head whilst I'm turning the pump? I don't believe there is any shims under the rocker shafts. Shims, do they look like washers etc? I just want to clarify, that when I mean no oil is coming to the deck, that there is no oil coming out of the oilway that's in the block, circled in the image below. Oil is being pumped by the pump! A real head scratcher! p.s: excuse the oil sitting in the piston. I poured too much in. Its gone now. Used it to wet the deck and walls so that it doesnt rust. I live near a beach.
  16. Hey Banjo! Took the head off, and spun the oil pump again. No oil is being pumped to the deck. The head gasket was a standard one, but it was installed correctly and I was told is totally fine for the motor. The rocker gear lines up perfectly with the oil feed hole in the head and isnt blocked! I stuck a long screw through the oil feed hole in the deck, and it hits something! It looks like the end of a temp sensor that goes into the housing, cylindrical in shape. I couldnt get a picture sorry! I couldn't tell if its partially blocked or fully blocked. Could it be something that is attached to the cam system/screws in around there? I'm racking my brains, but I don't believe that there is anything that does! I'm really stumped!
  17. Hi Banjo! This is a fresh rebuild, hasnt run yet, and the bloke who sold it to me (didn't realise it at the time) probably slapped on a 4k head instead of a 5k one. I have since put high comp pistons in and the CR is 9.5:1, So that should be good to run! I just took off the rocker gear, and spun the oil pump. Still no oil coming up, guess its time to take off the head! I remember specifically putting the gasket the right way up but who knows whats the story there. Ill open it up and have a look again! Will be keeping you posted! Cheers
  18. Thanks for your responses guys! So, Ive been out in the garage today doing some of the stuff you have suggested! First off, I took the oil pressure sensor out of the filter housing and span the oil pump by hand with a screw driver. And oil was coming out! Yay! Oil pump is not broken! I kept turning the oil pump and oil began to come out briefly where the oil pump connects to the dizzy, where I was spinning. I am assuming it is, I wanted to check if that was normal! Also, Altezzaclub mentioned that oil should come out of the rockers. I forgot to mention, but I have a 4k head on a 5k with 4k rocker gear. I couldn't see an oil coming out of the rockers while hand cranking, so I got a flathead and cut off the handle to prime the oil pump. Still no oil going into the rockers even with the drill on full blast! Does the engine have to be cranking? Cheers guys! I really appreciate your help!
  19. So! Turns out, I still don't have oil pressure. The pump is turning and I THINK that there is oil going into the filter, but the light on the dash stays red and doesn't turn off. I had a z68 filter, and just put on a z386 ryco filter. Still no change. I have done a solid lifter conversion. This lifter conversion has Holden 202 lifters, Datsun 1200 pushrods and a 4k adjustable rocker arm. Would this effect oil pressure? It is a 5k, in a car with a 4k wiring loom. Does the oil pressure sensor need to be a 4k one? Does the sensor type matter? Would love your thoughts !
  20. So! Opened up the timing case this morning and checked to see if everything was okay! Thank goodness, yes everything looks fine! Spun the engine and the cam moved. Was a bit confused at this point. I went back and double checked the dizzy and realised I am a muffin. The cam was spinning, but the oil pump was not. I checked to see if the pump was seized by quickly spinning it with a screw driver, and it span butter smooth. Then I realised the "flathead" bit at the end of dizzy wasnt sitting in the oil pump! Facepalming myself, but relieved it wasn't anything else! Currently making a new gasket for the timing cover and will turn it over when the sealant dries. Another thing, I am using the fuel pump from a 4k. Its from my old motor and brand new. Is this a problem? Another fuel pump question, there is a rubber insulator between the block and fuel pump. I heard that there was some plate thats needed to stop the arm from snapping? Pics included!
  21. Hi there fellow corolla nerds! I have just recently built a 5k for my ke38, and I got around to turning the key today. I took the spark plug leads off the spark plugs. The car cranks, which is good, the oil pressure light comes on, but doesn't go away. Its not currently making oil pressure. The engine was assembled with plenty of oil, so I don't believe that I've done any damage. I took off the oil filter to see if the pump was working, and oil filter is very dry! I then took off the distributor to see the little knurled camshaft gear turns and hand cranked it. Nope, no movement at all. Also, the fuel pump is not pumping/making any pressure. My suspicion is with the timing chain assembly at the front. My guess is that the cam is not being turned, but before I begin the process, what are your recommendations for how I should proceed? Cheers legends! edit: just saw i posted this in automotive discussion, not general mechanical. Delete if not allowed
  22. Hey Styler! I am in need of a 5k head for my 5k! I believe your 5k head would fit nicely. Everything on mine is standard except for 020 thou over R-Type pistons. I know this topic is a little older now, but I am wondering if you still have the head available for sale? I am located near Brisbane. Thanks again!
  23. Mate, you are an absolute gem. I really appreciate the levels of information that you have given me! I now know the direction to take this project in. Instead of going EFI powered, I am looking at going to for ITBS, is there any other bits of knowledge that I should know going for that setup? Also, is your inbox open for more questions down the line? Cheers mate!
  24. Hey everyone! As the title suggests, I am looking to engine swap my current 4k K40 in my ke38 with a 4age T50. I have gone back and forth with myself if I should just build a hot 4k, or go 4age, but I have come to the conclusion that only a 4age is the only solution that will make me happy with the build. That being said, I am looking to find some either ke55/ke38 4a swap builds that give, in detail, the parts required to undertake this swap (could not find any on here). Or alternately, if anyone has a big list of the things needed and recommended. Money really isn't a problem here, as I want to do this right. Thank you legends! Luca P.S. Pic of corolla with some fresh paint for size.
  25. Hiya mate, That sounds perfect for my needs, I can't seem to find any build threads for ke30 k50 conversions. Do you have any links? Cheers!
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