altezzaclub

Something miss-assembled between the key and the points. Could be no power getting there, or I've seen the points earth out in the dizzy when they should be insulated, or, as you expect, the coil has no circuit inside. Here's the diagram- Red is your 'Start' position on the key, it sends 12V straight to your 9V coil. Green is your 'Run" position on the key, when you let the key back from starting it sends 12V through the ballast resistor and that gives 9V to the coil. Either way, the power flows through the coil primary windings and off to the distributor. When the points are open no power flows and the capacitor charges up. When the points close the capacitor discharges and the bolt of current allows the coil current to flow, causing a surge in the coil and hence a spark. So, no power at the points- Step back to the coil, undo the negative wire and put a voltmeter on the terminal. Read it with the key on 'ignition', and then read it with the key on 'start'. Got power?? Put the negative wire back on and go to the distributor. Take off the wire coming from the coil and make sure it has power. Put it back on and make sure the points side on the insulated post has power. If power is getting all the way down there, the condensor is suspect. No power at coil negative? Take the wires off the coil positive and check the wires, 12V on 'start' wire, 9V on 'run' wire. No power in either of those? Back to the key and pull the plastic off the steering column, check power on the wires at the back of the key. Same thing, but 12V on "Start" and 12V on "run". The answer will be somewhere in there, a poor connection, a broken wire, a mis-wiring when fitting the motor, or some component has died.

Take off the distributor cap, turn the motor by hand until the points are open, turn the ignition on and put a flat-blade screwdriver across the points gap. The spark you see is what the coil should work on, a tiny spark means something is wrong before the points, a fat spark means something is wrong after the points.

OK, this bit is interesting- "In the Bosch one I have here, the shaft dia. below the plate, is 12.44mm. Above the plate is 10.88mm. " The video was a 4AF distributor, cheap as chips and extremely common, which is why it would have a different construction to the 4AGE one you have. However if you press the wheels off a 4AF distributor you can re-size the holes to press them onto a 4K distributor, is that what you found. Take the 10mm holes out to 10.88 & 12.44mm. If the engineering works, that would be the simplest way to make an ECU cam/crank sensor package for a 4K. Otherwise, its magnets and an alloy disc.

I was thinking the Hall Effect sensor on the pin at 2o'clock, like this Chop the plate down to just an arm holding the post and mount the sensor through the wall near it. You may not even need the post, just the end of the arm swinging past might be enough to activate the Hall sensor. Banjo will know! That gives you a cam position signal to tell the ECU that #1 is the next cylinder to fire. The crank position signal is the hard one, the more teeth you have to read the more resolution the computer has. So the 4AGE uses 24, but others use 36 and some use less. Finding what is essentially a gear wheel to mount above the cam sensor will be the hard part, either find a steel one from a distributor, or make one out of an alloy disc and put magnets in it. You can see the factory one in that image of the distributor I posted above, lots of gear teeth close together. That disc gets mounted on the shaft further up, and that Hall sensor goes in the side or through the lid. Manufacturers used this idea for a while in the 80s and 90s, a cam & a crank sensor built into a distributor and a rotor and plug leads on top. Those are the dizzys you want to look inside at a wreckers, the later ones did away with a distributor altogether and ran Coil Over Plug systems with remote sensors. Here's a Camry one from then, I've never looked at one, but it has the 24tooth wheel in there, the part 19235 picture. https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/toyota/camry/3-sedan-right-v30-1990-2407/engine-fuel-system-and-tools-1/distributor-34 4AFE motors, the most common engine back then, have them too. Wouldn't it be nice if this shaft and gears fitted easily. $40 buys a 2JZ one, somewhere in the world. https://wardautoracing.com/products/2jz-ge-distributor Otherwise, its alloy disc and magnets time.

Sold!! To the man in the black hat.. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/284012371846?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=284012371846&targetid=2370955762951&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=2036&poi=&campaignid=21766114506&mkgroupid=168279963077&rlsatarget=pla-2370955762951&abcId=10047372&merchantid=5511227270&gad_source=5&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrMjVxsGfiwMVjSStBh2xqxmcEAQYASABEgJCTPD_BwE The same as I had when I re-vamped the springs inside to make it advance faster.

"Which cam set up should i go for the dizzy, timing chain cover, fuel pump lobe. " I'd say dizzy Kayzz, the same way Banjo is doing it. You need some teeth or some magnets to count for crank position and a single tooth or magnet for a cam position. A stripped-down 4K dizzy that can carry a steel tooth at the bottom and an alloy wheel at the top. Here's your single tooth, but you need it at the bottom- It can be simple in shape, any round steel bush that can be fixed on a 4K shaft with a tooth sticking out. You could possible cut the base plate away and leave a bit sticking out. That Hall sensor goes in through the side of the dizzy, and there's your cam sensor. The top Hall effect needs magnets set in an alloy disc unless you can find a 24-toothed wheel. Banjo has a Hall sensor reading the 24tooth wheel in the 4AGE, so they can do it, but the magnets in an alloy disc seemed a good way to go too. Its really a matter of what you can fabricate up. The only downside of using the dizzy will be at light throttle transitions, where the motor goes from driving the car to being on over-run, and any play in the cam chain gives a few degrees difference in reading.

Did the person who said it wouldn't work have any reason why? Was that the guys who machined the flywheel? Is the new clutch designed to work with that step in the flywheel? You'd need to find out exactly what part number the flywheel is and chat to Exedy. I don't know why they would produce a stepped flywheel, maybe to give a longer live as it gets skimmed over the decades.

If you have the clutch plate under the pressure plate in that first photo, then yes, that gap will close up. That gap represents the spring pressure in the fingers of the pressure plate. That was an unfortunate mistake by the guy who put that clutch plate in backwards, and I'm amazed it got that much use, the noise must have been terrific.

"I picked up some stepped flange dies" Aren't they clever! We use dimple dies a lot for the gussets and panels in roll cages, they make the same shape using a press, and they take the flex out of a flat panel.

" it is only very very light spark some times when it's touching metal." There's also the points and condensor to consider, a failing condensor will only charge the coil slightly and then discharge it with a weak spark. Did that distributor come from the old engine or the new engine? Could you swap the old points and condensor into the new distributor?

Those reasons you asked about are exactly why you get it done at a cam grinding specialist. They have shelves full of 'blanks' for each cam grind they do, giant cam lobe shapes that go on one end of the cam grinding machine and the machine copies them onto your cam. I suppose these days its all done in CAD. So you need to know the exact shape of some well-respected cam grinder's lobe, how much they took off the base circle and how rapidly they curved the cheeks, and did they cut a wave into it so it accelerate the valve, then slows it, then accelerates it again.. The shape is crucial to not hammer the valve as it hits it to open it, or not to let it slap onto the seat and damage it, and a few other factors like valve springs and lobe separation. There are differences in 'advertised duration' and '50thou duration'. I had a Crow cut in my 4K, picked for mid-range and altitude, but there were these options too- The 7K bore to stroke ratio means it won't rev happily, so don't pick a cam going to 7000-8000. The longer stroke means piston speeds get very high and the rings don't like it. Make sure the cam grinder refaces all your cam followers too, they will have a wear pattern that suits your cam as it is and you want them fresh for the new cam. I'd do it through some country that has plenty of cam shops and an old Corolla fan base, European or Australian/NZ or Japan. I assume you're in Western Asia, India/Pakistan/Sri lanka way??

Here's what happens inside the switch stalk- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/65208-high-beam-turns-headlights-off/#comment-651107

Try this- https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/kxtqr769ojtetah/downloadfile.jpg?rlkey=ulck2pyqn6u8nd163h0awrj7w&e=1&dl=0 So is that in one of the little 'Pino jeeps?

Brand-new alloy radiators on Ebay are only a few hundred dollars, that $1500 is crazy! Almost any K motor radiator will fit won't it, although you might have to re-drill some holes in the rad panel. The hoses are always in the same place. I have a perfectly good 4K rad in a box in my garage, ever since I fitted an alloy one for the 4AGE. Where abouts are you?

Banjo is right, the flat head will increase the compression ratio over the sunken head. Here's how I measured mine before skimming it to a certain compression ratio. Use petrol or diesel or kero, not water, as water has too high a surface tension. Seal the plastic sheet on with a little grease and fill it up with a pippette or burette so you get an accurate measure. It will be 35-40ml I expect. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Just add up the combustion chamber volume you measured, add 7cc for the head gasket, and whatever the cylinder volume on a 7K is, about 445cc. So your compression ratio will be the total volume at bottom dead centre divided by the volume at TDC, so (35+7+445)/(35+7), or 487/42, or 11.6 to one if your head volume was 35cc. After you've measured a combustion chamber in each head you will be able to compare the expected compression ratios. What octane fuel are you running it on? Higher compressions, say over 10:1, will need higher octane fuels.

Well, buy yourself a set of feeler gauges and away you go! 10thou and 12thou from what I remember, or 8 & 10 depending if the motor is cold or warmed up. The exhaust valves have a slightly larger clearance as they expand more in the stem as they run hotter, and you need to always have a gap when the valve is closed or you burn the valve out.. I expect you would hear a loose tappet before those rpm, but I can't suggest any particular thing making that noise. Under the bonnet sounds terrible on any old car, especially as they are empty revs rather than the motor actually working. Its not some loose heat shield panel or similar is it? If you rev an engine in a slow curve there is a longer period around the top when it is floating, neither being accelerated nor decelerated. That is the time is is noisiest. If you rev it up and down sharply its is either being pushed or pulled, and you won't hear the noises so much. The harmonics change with rpm so motors get buzzy at a certain range then it vanishes. The 3SGE motors were terrible at 3000rpm as you lifted off the accelerator, the buzz sound would reverberate through the Altezza. If it has piston slap or loose bearings you hear the tapping or knocking quite clearly in my experience.

Which noise??? Sounds like a K motor, a bucket of bolts! You are free-revving it so all the slack in the bearings, the timing chain, the piston slap, the valve train.. all are knocking back and forth as it is not loaded. When you drive it all those noises vanish as the motor is being forced in one rotation direction. What are the noises like around 70kph and 90kph when you are - Accelerating normally? Cruising at that speed? Decelerating slightly? Have you checked the tappet gaps? ..and the wear in the rockers where they rub on the valve? If they are grooved then feeler gauges will give you the wrong readings. Same with wear in the rocker bushes where they rotate on the shaft, the valve spring forces the rocker up against the bottom of the shaft but when the tappet gap appears the rocker can bounce up and down for a moment.

In 2009 they were- The valve clearance for 4ac is: (hot) Intake - 0.20mm or 0.008inch Exhaust - 0.30mm or 0.012inch cold. Intake - .18mm .007In Exhaust - .28mm .011In https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/34040-ae71-4a-c-tappet-clearance-work-shop-manual/

Not a drain vent, is it at the bottom? Pressure equaliser for boost in the inlet versus vacuum in throttle body? Although there should be a one-way valve for that, you don't want your turbo pushing into the crankcase. We run them on the turbo rally car but it just goes from tappet cover (two big hoses) and out to atmosphere. http://mcnallycatchcan.com/ They go to inlet and to airbox, so both sides of the throttle body. Is it like that?

Whatever you can get hold of in the 750-1000cc range bikes. Suzuki GSXR are most popular, Mikuni carbs. They will be 4 carbs of 36 or 38mm throat, used to running a 1000cc at 15000rpm, so you can think about the outrageous flow. Even a smaller bike will run a 3K easily, a 600-700cc 4cyl. It was on my list, but I never got around to it, the 4AGE was a much nicer way to go.

Ah, so cam grind, head port & skim, extractors and exhaust system, and bike carbs! I don't know if a PM would reach Tommy- "Hey guys got the manifold plate cut out and also a few spares" If he still had a spare manifold plate it would make your life easy! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19886-my-ke-11/page/7/#comments You can see that a bike carb manifold has stub pipes welded onto it, and the carbs go on with a rubber hose and a clamp. So, bike carbs or DCOE Weber...

Why do you need one? Car modding going on? I assume your in Thailand, how's the old Corolla scene up there? Still got parts around? Check out Tommy's here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/19886-my-ke-11/page/6/#comments

That link doesn't work for me.. I could probably score you a set at the local wrecker, but they will be old, rusty and probably seized... You'd be better off to rebuild your own. I've just bought these for my KE70, they'll be fitted over the Christmas break. The quality is superb! https://www.mrpltd.co.nz/product/corolla-ke30-big-brake-kit/ The Dynalytes fit on 13" wheels, the bigger Dynapro calipers need 14".

Have a run through this- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Decide which carbs you want to use and start hunting for a manifold. You'll see I used SUs, popular one is a single downdraught Weber off a small Ford, better would a single side-draught DCOE Weber, but if I was to do it again I'd use bike carbs! Extractors are pretty much just the 4-1 from Redback or similar. Make sure the heights of the manifold's ears by the bolts of both inlet and exhaust are the same, use a half-washer if needed, and buy a single-piece gasket.

Well, Josh is now NSW rally champion, so all that hard work went somewhere... Finally back onto customer's cars... we make amazing safety cages, but don't expect a rush job. He can drill a blind 38mm hole in scuttle panel and put a 38mm tube through it that comes out in exactly the right place for welding! Then brace it with another tube that fits perfectly... If we can finish this shell before Christmas the customer will think Santa has been! The seam welding is done, although it needs to go back on the rotisserie for some work bracing the diff mounts to the rear cage. I've got seat mounts sorted, and we have the rear cage and side-intrusions to do.