altezzaclub

Did your KE30 have aircon to start with?? The plastic vents under the dash are quite different between having it or not, and there's quite a bit of work to do if you have to find those parts and pull out the dash to fit them.

..and the problem was- Chinese relay.. I removed the wire and sealed it. Still, now I know how a cooktop is put together and we don't need more than 3 elements I'm sure! The other talking point flying around for a month has been satellite-linked data-gathering in cars. The public are slowly catching up with the manufacturers who can store everything about your new car as you drive.. speed, location, direction, gear used, rpm, how many people in the car.. Of course the Govts are making this compulsory in some countries, along with a Police-controlled kill switch that will disable your car. The manufacturers will sell the data to the insurance companies and the Govt, so instant speeding fines and change of insurance costs. I'm glad I lived in the 60s-70s, the future will be nothing like then!

Yeah, you're right- I came home last night to find the cooktop wouldn't turn off on one element.. Turn the power on at the wall and it lights up immediately, one of those glass panels that you touch with your fingers to make it work. So I expect I'll disconnect that element and when the next one goes it means new cooktop, its all electronics under there and no-one will want to fix it.. I've always hated those touch controls, and looking up Bunnings last night I see they now option the same cooktop with knobs for control, only an extra $100...

haha! The ABC always holds the telescope up to their blind eye and tells a story of what they want to see! So, currently wind and solar will never make enough electricity to pay for themselves, never mind the increase our electrical usage from electric vehicles, AI computers, and Bitcoin mining. Then again, they stop at sunset most of the days and the batteries to carry us through the night are unaffordable. So, coal will still be king, even as we shift all our manufacturing and our coal off to China so they can send finished goods back. Unless we employ the Chinese to build nuclear stations we won't have them for thirty or forty years, by which time we will be using candles again. As for the actual vehicles, it was just recently shown that driving an electric car to Melb from Sydney and back took way longer and cost way more... no advantage in being electric at all. If they don't catch fire first, they will be boat anchors within a decade as the non-replaceable battery dies, never mind that the insurance is wildly costly, as are the repairs. The second-hand market will be non-existent unless the Govt does ban petrol & diesel, and the next time I see someone driving a Tesla in any way except slow and boring, will be the first! I think the public is slowly waking up, even if the politicians from local Councils to Federal Govt deny it. But the ABC is interested in Musk being the richest person on the planet, believe that new technology will solve all the above problems and somehow reducing our CO2 emissions will change the weather.

Sounds good! They don't have to be 'in' the disc at all, but it would take a mill to make a hole so that they stuck out proud of the edge a mm or so.

So, it it a Hitachi twin-choke downdraft like the Aisan on a corolla?? I thought 1600s had Nikkis, but there's no light in the boatshed so I'm not going to look! You talk about carbs plural, while Datsun 1600s had one carb, like Corollas. What are the sizes of the chokes, the narrowest part of the throats? If its too big on the primary that car won't run well. Datsun have a rod throttle system, so there won't be a quadrant for the cable to act on, that might take some organising. Fuel line may not line up either, but that's not too hard to fix, the big one is obviously the studs in the inlet manifold. It might not be worth the trouble.. If you have the twin SUs off a SSS Datsun though..

That shroud covers a lot of the radiator area, I wonder how it affects air flow itself. Great for sitting at the lights with the fan running, not so good for passive airflow hauling up hills. I suppose robotic welding is now cheaper than some Chinese girl welding it by hand, so the price stays down. Maybe you don't need the shroud at all. We've just fitted a double pass crossflow radiator and fan to the Evo5 tarmac car, no shroud, and to my horror, no way to mount the fan except with 4 zipties through the core. Seems that's acceptable these days, and with the tanks vertical at the sides there was the flimsiest bit of alloy channel top and bottom. Josh welded pins on so it drops into the Evo rubber mounts at the bottom and is clamped down at the top. That system is a vast improvement over bolting rads to the front wall. What size & shape are the magnets? Drill them into the circumference from the side and tack a ring of aluminium over them to hold them in? 200mm diam, say a metre of 0.5mm thick by 8mm wide alloy strap. Even a ring of alloy wire.

"When it does idle too low, holding the choke slightly closed brings it back up. " "This is a valve to admit extra air at hot idle.." They seem to match. Can you disconnect and seal the hot idle compensator line and see if it fixes it.

" it starts up fine when cold but idles high, around 1500rpm, and adjusting the idle speed screw doesn't change anything. " Does it have a separate cold idle screw, working on the choke quadrant? I've never dealt with a 4AC, but that system of one idle screw for cold and a different one for hot is pretty common. It may be the idle jet is blocked, or something is wrong with the hot idle screw system.

...or a lazy website manager who didn't check photos and words..

Now you know why it was in the garage instead of being driven! Put a test meter over the fusible links in the main lines off the battery. If they are OK, start with fuses I suppose. Its just a big check of the wiring, very time-consuming.

If this gets off the ground we're doomed, doomed I tell ya.. If you can’t afford an over-priced unreliable electric car you vill not haff a car at all! “With the internal combustion engine to be consigned to history in the not-too-distant future, recent information has emerged regarding the European Union’s plan to restrict repairs on older vehicles, reports EuroWeekly….Cars experiencing failures in major components such as engines, transmissions, brakes, or steering, and deemed old (potentially around 15 years), will fall under this category. Once labelled as residual, these vehicles would be barred from undergoing significant repairs and would likely be scrapped. The regulation specifies conditions under which a vehicle is deemed technically irreparable or residual. These include extensive damage, such as being cut, welded, burnt, submerged, or exhibiting irreversible technical defects.” https://www.technocracy.news/eu-seeks-rule-to-ban-repairs-on-cars-older-than-15-years/ They fail to see that the environmental cost of keeping my 40yr old Corolla running is far less than building me a new electric car!

T50 short-shift kits exist, there's one on mine, but I don't know who made it as it was on there when I fitted the gearbox. I don't notice it anymore, except for the 'Need for Speed' click-chick sound like a pump-action shotgun.

Well, its good that the advance is much better, but 110psi is pretty bad for an engine. The usual story is to pour a teaspoon of engine oil down a spark plug hole and redo the compression test a couple of minutes later. The theory is that the oil sits on the rings and helps seal them to the bore, so any increase in compression is the result of worn rings being sealed. If it doesn't hit over 150psi (and I reckon that's unlikely!) then the leakage is through the valves being burnt. Ring job, expensive and complicated.. Valve job, simpler and much cheaper. The tricky bit is the amount of oil to put in... enough to flow across the piston (so do it on a warm engine) and get onto the rings, but too much will occupy combustion volume and put the compression readings up anyway. I've never done it, I usually take the head off and grind the valves, and at the same time I can see the lip on the bore and feel the slop in the pistons from worn rings. Do the valve clearances before you ever take a head off, the gaps can wear away until the pushrod starts to hold the valve off the seat and you lose compression. That's the only problem with the inlets, but hot combustion gases going out a tiny gap past an exhaust valve burns the valve and seat away quickly. Certainly 180psi will give you a much more powerful motor than 110psi! The fuel economy should improve now, 52deg is going to help that, 7.0 to 7.5L/100km would be good, and under 7 on a trip. The solution to the plug colour may appear later, its a puzzle..

Yes, that's a much better advance curve, you should have the whole 36deg on by 3500rpm. The K motors will take more advance than that, its just a matter of what fuel you can buy and how much advance you can give it before it starts to lose power or knock. The plug colours are interesting, I don't know why they are in piston pairs like that. I wonder if 2 and 3 have an inlet air leak around the exhaust port in the middle and are running lean? Check the bolt tightness along the manifolds just in case. Is there one of those air pump/pollution lines run into the inlet manifold in the middle? Otherwise it is a richness problem with 1 and 4, even harder to explain! maybe a misfire on 1 and 4 is making them black.

In that case, check the dizzy and timing. The dizzy pin in the center should wind back a little and spring forward again if you turn the rotor, that's the springs under the base plate controlling the advance. You could take the base plate out, its only two screws, and examine the weights and springs underneath. They are what advances the ignition as you accelerate. If the pin moves sideways, yes its a very worn bush at the bottom of the dizzy, and that can change the points gap and timing all the time. You may find the new dizzy has a terrible advance curve due to the springs they use, as per a recent post on here in the last week or two. The electronic dizzys are for a fork-hoist or a van, so make the car very slow. Coil is another suspect, they can idle OK but break down when under pressure as you accelerate causing a misfire. Its not pinkng is it, that light detonation under acceleration that is caused by too much advance and each misfire causes a knocking sound? I haven't heard it in decades now every car is computer controlled. Try higher octane petrol once your tank is nearly empty, maybe 97octane Premium won't do it. Do you have a timing light, a very handy tool that is worth buying for all the vehicles you will own?

'maybe it would of been better to purchase the hurricane or wildcat brand for ease of fitment. ' Nope, they're just the same.. grind a couple of corners so they fit past the inlet manifold OK, grind a weld back here and there, and cut spring washers in half and glue the halves onto one manifold to make it level with the other... ..and don't use the double manifold gaskets they sell, get a one-piece. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Can you fit your old dizzy, your old fuel pump and your old carb?? Not all at once, one at a time and see if one of them fixes it. Otherwise, could be fuel starvation, or timing, it really depends on when it jerks. On over-run?? On acceleration? Going up a hill? On a tiny amount of throttle?? Does it idle smoothly?

Take a look through here, I fitted an electronic dizzy and found the advance curve to be very late. In the end I used springs I found around the house to make it work. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/4/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594

What else happens?? Do you pump the throttle to make it richer when cranking hot? Does it idle fine hot or cold? Can you smell raw petrol at any time?? Its an auto choke isn't it? Parrot's idea seems pretty good to me, otherwise the only thing I can think of would be fuel. Throw it overboard and fit a 4AGE!

I'm sure they pick on another KE70 earlier up the page. From a website examining the depth of America's military prowess in Iraq. https://simplicius76.substack.com/p/the-iraq-war-was-a-sham

Well, another trip to Adelaide over Christmas, this time I was under pressure to do the 1200km in 12hrs before the reception desk closed at 5pm. That went well, although not the 7.0L/100 I was hoping for... Then i got keen over quietening it down even more and bought some foam/foil insulation off Ebay. First was making a few short videos as I drove to the workshop and back each day, now I just need a video editor for dummies so I can measure some noise volume. I started on the parcel shelf, straight over the fibre-board Toyota fitted in the factory, and I'll put a coloured cloth over it when I can convince the wife to sew it. Next was some melamine on 3mm MDF for the firewall area, but fitted much more carefully to make sure there aren't any holes or gaps. I didn't think of photos until 10min ago, and I'm not taking that seat back out again.. The base foam goes straight on the floor, which is where I'm up to. It covers the guard curves under the seat wings too. So, I'll fit the seat base, run a few videos on the way to work on Monday and see if I can measure a difference in noise.

Its toast! Just not as warm... Power arrives at the panel, and I assume you tested an earth leading away, and you can't get a reading through the panel itself. If the earth wire goes to the chassis with less than 5ohms, the problem is in the panel, and most likely there is a break or corrosion in the wire somewhere along the way. I don't know what resistance it should show, but 10ohms would be enough to defrost a window.

"The car already is a bare shell with literally nothing on it, and it's about to be 100% rust free once the repairs are done. I'm having a 4AGE and a T50 being built+remachined/reconditioned in California. As for the rest of the work, such as the T series diff conversion, AE86 front suspension, etc, is all gonna be done by a shop that has a fabricator on hand for anything I need. Basically all I've been trying to find through these forums are the parts and conversion that I need to buy/get started on so that the shop can install them once my motor is finished and the rebuilding process begins. I'm hoping it's gonna be pretty quick since the car is just a shell with no paint, no interior, no suspension, etc. " Excellent! By far the best way to tackle a project like this! Strip to a shell, rebuild shell, undercoat, fit engine/diff/suspension, strip them out, paint it all then re-fit mechanicals and wire it up. It will be great to see some photos as it progresses. Spreadsheet- The clutch master cyl can come out of a whole range of Toyotas, but the pedal box would be nice if it was stock. If you get stuck you will fine the clutch part is usually just grafted onto the auto pedal box, so probably not hard to stick a clutch pedal off another Toyota onto a KE20 frame. KE70 crossmember will be wider I expect. We had 4K motors fitted here and while the AE86/KE70 crossmembers are the same, the mounts won't take both motors. I have a Haltech Sprint 500 sitting on my desk to run my 4AGE when I have time to fit it. It came out of a race car so it does everything the 4AGE needs, but there will be extras you may or may not need with the flasher Haltechs.. I don't know if you'll find anything interesting in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/12068-ke70ae71te72ae86-similarities-differences/page/2/#comments