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Don't rush, things are getting hot between Greece & Turkey these days- Greek-Turkish escalation in the Aegean in 2023 – Turkey may intervene https://warnews247-gr.translate.goog/economist-ellinotourkiki-klimakosi-sto-aigaio-mesa-sto-2023-i-tourkia-isos-kanei-epemvasi/?_x_tr_sl=el&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-GB Turkish provocation with an F-16 fighter flight over the occupied Pentadactylo https://warnews247-gr.translate.goog/tourkiki-proklisi-me-ptisi-machitikou-f-16-pano-apo-ton-katechomeno-pentadachtylo-vinteo/?_x_tr_sl=el&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-GB I use that site to keep up to date with Ukraine, but there's been plenty of poking each other by Greece and Turkey over the year. Turkey's invasion of Syria might keep them occupied over the next few months.

Ah, so familiar! They just fill up with rust & sludge in the rear water jackets. Are you going to fit Banjo's bypass to get the hot water circulating around the back of the engine?

Nice second car too..!

"Could of the ball on the bottom of the gear stick broken off" Yes- About 50years ago I put my Lotus Europa in for service and they broke the bit off the bottom. I found it had happened before & been welded, but the mid-mounted North-South engine had a torturous path to the gearbox and a lot of stress on the lever. There's a couple of other spots where a pin could break or selector jump out, but you'll only find out when you strip it. Start with the getting the gear lever out & have a play with the selector rods before you pull the whole box.

I took the easy route and used a Celica, also wider but nowhere near the arches with stock rims. However the Hilux seems to be the most common conversion, although if you're at a wrecker take a look under the newer vans. There are 5-linked rear diffs with disc brakes under some of the vans, and they look lighter than the Hilux.

Bound to be fixable, most likely the 1st gear selector is either broken inside the box or wore the tips out so much it has jumped off the gear. How does the gear lever feel? More sloppy than usual? Jammed solid? In the usual place for 1st gear or further forward/backward?

There is no good news in this area... The layshaft needle bearings are a Toyota product it seems, I have never been able to find any for sale anywhere. This means you cannot rebuild a K series gearbox if they are noisy. The needles mark the layshaft, which they run on directly, grinding away the hard steel surface so it is a massive job to get the shaft built up again then machined circular again. I don't know how to check a gearbox outside the vehicle without pulling it apart. If you could turn 20 or 30 K series boxes by hand at different wreckers you might learn the difference in the feel, or it may be something you just can't feel by turning the shaft with no load on it. Just buy one, try it, take it back if its noisy.. They must all have over 250,000km on by now, so they will all be worn. It is the one component that will take our K series off the road in the future.

Yes, the K40 and K50 boxes are quite easily swapped. The box is basically the same, they fitted 5th gear in the tail section, but there are different tail sections on both boxes for different Corollas. This was to keep the gear lever in the transmission tunnel hole on different models, so you might find a K50 that leaves the gear lever too far back. Same with going from auto to manual.

Well done! The way to set timing is to- Get #1 cyl to TDC by watching the rockers. Put the crank back to 10deg before TDC. Go back to 20 or 30deg before, then forward to 10deg which takes up the chain slack. Turn the ignition on and slowly rotate the dizzy against the direction of the rotor travel then forwards until it sparks. You want the points just opening, and the rotor pointing to #1. If the plug leads don't agree, swap them around. That will give you the coil firing about 10deg BTDC and the car will run fine. Tweak it a bit with a timing light when you have it running. --------- The plug I don't recognise either, it looks far too modern for an old Corolla. Take a multimeter and check the resistance between the motor & the chassis, the alty and the chassis and the chassis to battery negative. They should all be under 5ohms.

Well, rigging a load cell on the arm would be right up your alley, you just need water to provide the friction force and keep it cool. If you weren't in QLD I'd say hook it up to an electrical generator and run power to your hot water cylinder! Something to plan in the future...

Dyno! You'll need a dyno to tune it to the best ignition timing curve and see how many more KW it gives! Even a simple water-driven setup...

That's good, major problem sorted! Turn the ignition on and take off the dizzy cap. Stick a flatblade screwdriver across the points and open & shut them. You should see a good fat spark. If you do, stick the lead from the coil near an earth and see if the spark jumps from the coil lead to the car body. Say 3mm gap.. If you don't see a points spark, the problem is prior to them. No ignition current or the points are shorting out etc. Have the points open and check for 12V with a multimeter or test light. No spark or if the spark is weak, it could also be a condenser problem So, no points spark, chase the 12V supply, chase the points earthing when they shouldn't, change the condenser. Points spark but no coil spark, maybe the coil is a dud or there's a break/short in a wire. Measure the resistance of the coil circuits. Yes, electronic ignition is better, but beware the advance curve in the usual electronic dizzies sold is a dog, the car will be slower unless you change the springs under the plate.

I've only got the wiring for a KE70, but I expect they are similar. The motor is where the speed is controlled, the +1 and +2, so you need to check if you have a blue/orange (L/O) & blue/black (LB) taking power to the motor when its all turned on. Your colours might be different. The S pole is the self-park & flash power for the washers, so you get the one wipe then park. If you don't get power from the LB then you know the problem is in the switch. Stick a temporary power wire into the LB and see if it speeds up, then you know if the motor is good (or not). Take the wiper arms off if you haven't already and oil the many joints and pivots...

"passing through the camshaft bearing journal once every two rotations, of the crankshaft. " Isn't that clever! So if you slowly turn the crank bit by bit and use the drill there will be a spot where you see oil come out of the rocker feed. Then you can leave the crank alone and assemble the head to pump oil right through the whole rocker system to confirm. Failing it being the speed of the drill plus the cam restrictor, the only other point is the oil pressure relief valve. ..or a blocked oilway inside the engine. For that it would have been a very sludgy engine to rebuild, although I do remember a Holden FJ wagon that had a rocker seize because the oil was never changed. We tried to do a compression test with a big drill one time, it didn't work at all and it showed how much grunt 300W of starter really has.

..and there's the old idea of spinning the pump with the dizzy out and an electric drill holding a screwdriver bit. Never tried it..

Ok, you've solved the first part! Now the oil pump turns.. So, you might have a broken sensor, one that stays 'closed' when there is oil pressure. You might have a pressure relief valve stuck open so oil pressure can't build. Take the oil pressure sensor off and crank it, see if oil squirts out. -If it does, take the filler cap off (might have to be the whole tappet cover) and look for oil coming out of the rockers. (pumped up through the rocker shaft) -If it doesn't come out the pressure sensor, check & clean the oil filter housing internally, that's where the relief valve is. Look inside the filter to see if its full. If that doesn't help, crank it with no oil filter housing and see if you get a mess on the floor... If no mess, the oil pump isn't working for some reason or another. If it is working, you might be loosing pressure to the head, and if oil is getting up there the sender must be crook. The lifters can't effect oil pressure, the oil gets pumped up to the head through the gasket (which better be on the right way up!), runs along the rocker shaft and comes out the squirter holes in the rockers, runs down onto the valves on one side and runs down the pushrods to the followers on the other, so they are all lubricated by oil draining back to the sump. The fuel pump should run a 5K with no problem, and I haven't heard that here is a metal plate to stop the arm snapping, that should only happen if you don't have the insulating block in there.

Also very interesting, I've just read that the Ford/Mazda combine means you can fit a 2L Duratech Ecoboost motor from Ford to a J160 6-speed Altezza gearbox from the MX5... I'm not sure if the Fiesta 3cyl Eco is part of it,or just the 4cyl motors. Its getting very hard to find a modern motor in RWD format.

Continue what you're doing... chase the timing chain and see why its not turning the cam. Broken cam? Lack of woodruff key? Broken chain? Something in there is not right, and I can't think of a shortcut to check it that doesn't involve pulling the cam cover off and turning it by hand while you watch.

"Yes, it does say "ORANGE" on the lid," ..as it should! Nicely done Sir!

OK, not the same. The 4AGE has three wires to the dizzy, Ne, G and G- Inside the 4AGE dizzy are two setups, both busily counting teeth. Only 4 on top, like you say, but 24 on the bottom. Other 4AGEs had 4 on the bottom & one on the top. So you're not going to drop a 4AGE one in there...

I'm just looking up some stuff for Banjo in the 4AGE manual and I see the primary windings on the coil should be 0.5-0.7ohms, cold, and the secondary between the +ve and the high voltage terminal should be 11-16ohm. Just check your coil is the correct one for a 4AGE.

That sounds like plumbing that will work.. mind you, we will want it flow checked to confirm! The 4AGE runs a fuel pressure regulator on the return line, set to only 45psi. The diaphragm line goes to the inlet manifold so when you boot it and the vacuum drops to nothing you get a quick enrichment as it closes the return line and puts the pressure up, an electronic pump jet! ...and now you've done away with the distributor you'll have to make your own cam sensor! The 4AGE uses the dizzy readings to act as crank/cam sensor. What did the 7K ECU use originally? Do you put the original dizzy shaft back in with one magnet set to #1 firing? I suppose that depends on what the ECU needs to read.. Have you compared the 7K ECU pinouts to the 4AGE's? Are they the same vintage, the early 80's? Toyota tended to do the minimal changes to stuff between cars then. You might be able to swap a couple of systems over, like that fuel reg and the dizzy setup.

I see you have a different igniter to me, I think they are quite specific but I don't know which type works with what coil or ECU. The coils have to be low-impedance so the stock 4K coil doesn't work. Well, I assume they burn the igniter out, but maybe they don't produce a spark. My igniter has 19070-70120 & Hr on it, the coil has 90919-02113

Well, you wouldn't need much water flow when the t'stat is closed, its all still under cold start conditions. When its at 60deg for 20seconds & climbing, would your idle be too fast?? Then it hits 70+deg & the t'stat stats to open and you get warm water through the waxstat. A bigger factor would be the pressure ratio in the line due to the pump, you'd need to come out of the back of the head and feed into negative pressure side of the pump where the lower rad hose goes in. The t'stat housing will be at positive pressure, the same as the head. I suppose its the same as the heater hoses, anywhere that give circulation or the waxstat will lag warmup by a few minutes.

Ah, you have my sympathy, it drove me mad a few years back when I put a 4AGE in The Girls KE70.. Here's some photos, as I haven't got time to hunt down the real solution until tonight- Make sure it has 12V to the coil on cranking, not just with ignition on. Otherwise, check the colours on my wires and see if they compare, read how I did it with the KE70 loom, and take a look through the wiring diagrams. Mine is a bigport, but some diagrams are for smallports. Here's a bit of my notes on it- "In the KE70 chassis loom there is a circuit for the ignition B/O and purple wires that runs right around the engine bay, a very handy situation. This takes ignition power from the COR box to a relay I fitted by the 4AGE coil & powered from the battery. This gave Ign power to the coil & I used the purple wire to take the coil-ve signal back to the COR side where it plugs into the KE70 black tacho wire. The KE70 chassis loom supplies the starter motor with power and cranking signal as usual. So now the KE70 chassis supplies ignition power and cranking power, and receives signals back for the tacho. The KE70 wires for oil pressure and temperature were used, although one was lengthened. I fitted the KE70 temp sensor which gave the correct reading on the dash gauge. Rob tells me there are several different temp senders listed for 4Ks, and they read twice as high as a 4AGE one. When I checked the resistances on mine that was true" --------------------------------