altezzaclub

"I damaged the nut" What sort of 'damaged'? Stripped the thread or rounded it off?? If you have to take the sump off take the 4 studs right out of the timing chain cover at the front. When you put it back on, use bolts instead of studs. Its a dog to get the sump off without lifting the motor on a jack and tying it up .

If any models of your year had foglights, then the wiring will be in the car. If it was only after the facelift then possibly not. You might have to trawl the net through the most dodgy sites listing wiring diagrams that force you to sign up then supply the wrong wiring diagram at glacial speed, but a factory wiring diagram will tell you the colours and connectors involved. Try the other Toyota forums too. If you hunt around behind the front bumper you might find un-used connectors that are for foglights. There is likely a switch blank plate in the dash that you poke out and install a switch for them. If not, you start from scratch with a switch, a relay and some wires...

WoW! That is nice! Definitely one to look after carefully.

I can't get the google drive file to run, but for tappets I usually lean my ear against a long screwdriver and move it around the engine. Its quite educational for all sorts of noises you don't hear when you stand there, and will show you which end of the tappet cover is noisy.. You could take the tappet cover off and turn the motor over with a spanner while checking each rocker for a tappet gap. As they're hydraulics none should have any gap, but if one has become jammed or run out of adjustment it might show up. You could try a flushing oil in it when you next change the oil, I've used a mixture of diesel & kero in the past, and just let it idle for 10minutes then dump it out again. The clearances in the hydraulic tappets are very small and tar can build up & jam them.

Four of them.. laid way over on their side almost upside down on a custom quad-carb manifold straight into the 4K head! Even two of them would do!

Got this one yet? http://mazdaepc.com/parts/121/AEDA03/C2/1364/

Yes, the gasket blocks front holes that are matching in the block & head, letting a very small flow through until it reaches the back cylinders. I have wondered if Toyota made a design mistake with the casting and covered the overheating rear cyls with the gasket. There are so many tings in a car that make we wonder 'why did they do this?'.... but sadly no-one to ask!

Yes, as Banjo says, alloy rads do help. The radiator is half the weight of the copper one, yet holds twice the water, so overall the full radiator weighs the same. The electric fan means more bhp for the wheels as it rarely turns on, but also makes the motor a lot quieter. It also takes the stress off the water pump bearings from having a heavy fan hang on the front of them. Make sure you run coolant, not because it raises the boiling point so much, but because it has corrosion inhibitor in it. If you ever have the head off the motor for a valve grind, (when you fit the carbs & extractors) get the block out too and clean the rust scale out of the water jackets. Its amazing how much crap builds up around the back cylinders & insulates them from the cooling water. Tridon make a range of common thermostats in high-flow variants, you could chase up those too. Just be careful getting the nuts & bolts apart in things like water pumps & thermostat housings, they corrode with rust and alloy corrosion which means they break off easily.

I figure he works on old Toyotas for a living, with some biomedical engineering as a sideline... ..and with all this Covid cash being thrown about- ""The children's playground at Parliament is being called a monument to extravagance after it ran significantly over budget. Today the price tag of the playground has been revealed at $572,000, well over the initial $400,000 budget. The slide was $76,000 over budget and engineering and architect fees were $73,000 over. The Green Party think it's ironic - given the Speaker said it was too expensive to make the playground accessible. “The current playground is effectively a slide and a bunch of logs which is not particularly accessible to kids with certain types of disabilities,” Chlöe Swarbrick says. However, Disability Rights Commissioner Paula Tesoriero says an accessible carousel may soon be added to the playground to address this."" Obviously the Labour Party is in power in NZ... Bloody fools voting them in, although I'm sure if the National Party win the election they will still pour another few hundred thousand in to make it accessible for the disabled!

Glad to help- let us know if that fixes it. The car looks great in the photo, worth looking after!

Its a Holden trimatic from BorgWarner, so hunt down the Holden forums too. Its only twice as heavy as a manual box, soaks up about 15bhp and is horrible to drive, so when you convert it you'll be amazed at how much better the car goes! Try this- http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/topic/25920-trimatic-problems/

"I’ll adjust my throttle position ever so slightly and the transmission will suddenly kick back into second gear, revving the guts out of the little engine." I remember this happening before I converted mine to manual. You could drive along just before the point of it kicking back a gear. " If I pump the accelerator or put my foot down it will go back into 3rd " Now that is really weird! Usually I lifted off and it went back up a gear to 3rd, but then I'd lost so much speed I had to carefully to work it back up without it kicking down to 2nd again. Long slight uphills where I live. " as soon as I release the throttle again it will kick back into 2nd again." Yes, that is the opposite of what should happen. Isn't there a second cable on the throttle that does the kickdown at high throttle openings?? and a vacuum line from the inlet manifold to the box so it can sense inlet vacuum?? Its been so long since I had an auto now. If you disconnected them, can you drive it on the gearlever?? It should lack the kickdown then and just go up and down the gearbox depending on the rpm.

Same as a KE70, the Altezza manual runs a 4.1, the auto a 4.3. Found the page I was after... Here's a comparison of the K, T W & J160 boxes, and the 'close-ratio' 5 speed from the Datsun Z series. You'll see the J160 has a lot more gears crammed into the same ratio space, with 5th as 1:1 like most gearboxes 4th. It just great if you're working your way though the tight & twistys, but not noticeable if you're on straighter roads. J160 6th gear is 0.87, the same as a K50 5th, so definitely not a tall gearbox.

Stock springs are probably free from your local wrecker... I know there are a couple lying around at the wreckers here just waiting to get crushed.

Its an excellent idea, they make no noise as they never come on and release more bhp for the wheels as there is no parasitic drag. You will need a radiator hose fitting or similar to carry a thermoswitch, a fan, (I get mine from the wrecker) a relay and I included an LED to show it is on and a manual switch on the dash. You'll have to make your own brackets to mount whatever fan you get, and if you want to do a lot of work you can mount the relay inside the KE70 box, or just put a relay beside the radiator. I'll draw up a wiring diagram- hang on.. With the K motor I had a thermoswitch in the thermostat housing. When I fitted a 4AGE I went to a separate t'switch housing in the radiator hose. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/saas-water-temperature-gauge-adapter---aluminium-34mm-radiator-hose/525639.html Pick a thermoswitch from the Tridon manual, they open at various temperatures and have varies wiring setups. I used a TFS 111 and we've used a similar one with two wires. https://www.tridon.com.au/products/Tridon/35/483/switches-and-sensors/2014/thermo-fan-switches Don't forget to have the radiator hose adapter fit the diameter of your hose, (modern cars are smaller) and the thermoswitch must fit the thread in the adapter or the 4K t'stat housing. Ok, wired like this- Permanent power to the relay on the switched positive, so make sure this is a bulletproof wire as its always live. You could put a 30amp inline fuse in it. It goes to the fan from the output side of the relay and the fan goes to earth. Ignition power to the switching side positive of the relay, it powers the relay switch when you turn the key on. The output side of the relay switch goes to the thermoswitch, and nothing happen until the water hits 95deg. At that point the 'normally open" thermoswitch closes, power flows from the relay switch through the thermoswitch to earth, and the relay turns on. Then the alty power runs the fan and goes to earth. The manual switch is an option, I flick it on at roadworks when I'm on a trip at 100kph as I can get cooling the radiator before it hits 95deg. In theory, not needed. The fan is only needed up to about 25kph, as airflow is then greater, so it only does anything when you're sitting still in traffic.

haha! True! Plenty of these in use too..

Sounds good! An easy car to drive & you'll never be short of torque. It will be interesting to see if a better diff is a 3.9 than 4.3.

here's one place for the gear, although the fitting looks a different shape. Its worth another look around the bush where you found the outer fitting to find the gear, even if its just to count the teeth. https://tinkeringontoyotas.com.au/products/t50-gearbox-speedo-gear-drive-kit Ah- photos in here.. ..and I found my photo I was looking for, its just not on my computer! These are two broken T50 drives, one stripped the nylon gear and one broke the hollow steel drive shaft. That's what T50 gear look like as far as I know. Anyway, best buy a new cable, inner & outer, then figure out how many teeth on the gear you need to buy, and buy the $74 kit from somewhere. Then you'll need a 6mm bolt and a half-moon plate to hold it in the gearbox.

I'm afraid I don't know where to get one, or even if yours is the same as a KE70 in length. One important thing will be the number of teeth on the nylon gear, so if the gear is still in the gearbox hole, take it out and check the condition of it. The inner cable will be the easiest part, they can be made up new. There's plenty of KE55s at wreckers, but they won't have T50s in, so the bottom fitting will likely be different. Stick some photos up, maybe someone will recognize the bits.

Can you cut the transmission tunnel and still use the car for what you want? The J160 6-speed is a big box, and if you read the thread about putting one in the KE70 rally car you'll see we lowered the engine mounts until the sump was almost touching the cross-member, and we drop the cross-member to get the gearbox in and out. That's after panel-beating the tunnel around the bell-housing so we ddidn't have to cut it. You might have worse problems as you have a steering arm across the car, while we have a rack bolted to the cross-member. You'll need custom engine mounts and a gearbox cross-member made, maybe not have a speedo if the Honda's use electronic systems like the Altezza, and a custom driveshaft to a new diff. I'm sure it won't get engineered without new front suspension & brakes too. Seeing you're basically putting the shell on a completely new mechanical system, don't look for change out of $20,000. Even paying someone to fit a 'drop-in' 4AGE into a KE70 we reckon is worth $10K, and yours is a lot more work. The motor is wonderful, no doubt about it, and the only options are Mazda MX-5 or a BMW 4-cyl in RWD configuration. You could use a 2AZ like LittleRedSpirit, that's a fantastic project, but RWD sports motors are not common these days. Anyway, keep planning and measuring, anything is possible! https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/ https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/69126-how-to-build-a-rally-car/?gopid=680040#entry680040

By now you will have checked for damage on the gearbox fitting and found out why the threaded piece in your fingers was still there. It either ripped the matching thread off the gearbox or it was unscrewed before it fell off, or it was torn off and ruined. I've been hunting a few photos I have of repairing those units, I just can't find them. You'll need a new cable at least, from the look of it, and there should be a big nylon gear sticking out the top end of the piece in your hand. What else have you found under there.

"Only by eliminating the virus can we ease the restrictions. " Not going to happen... We have as much chance as with eliminating influenza or the common cold. It will burn out and become less virulent via the normal mutations of viruses, but it will be around for decades. The chance of a successful vaccine is also very slim, but I suppose if its 50% effective it will be called a win for the billionaires behind it. The safest assumption is that we will all get it sooner or later, and if your time is up you'll die. For those who go on living, the world will be slowly sliding back to the 1970s, then the 1960s, then the 1950s... Its no good having flash new electric cars when unemployment is 20% and inflation is the same. Empty shops, deserted malls, no 'luxuries', plenty of time at home but no holidays away... Self-preservation will make people wash their hands and wear masks, not Govt thugs. Seeing someone you know die from it will sharpen your focus amazingly! But the reality is we are crushing the economy for people who are past their '3score years plus 10' and who would likely die within the next year anyway. Look upon it as an acceleration of inheritance, something that was going the other way in past decades. The final result? A generation of people where the young learn to live without jobs, the middle-aged find they have no savings and the old die from pneumonia in their 70s instead of their 80s or 90s. Somewhere along the line we have to pay for the money Govt is throwing around, be it in increased taxes or inflation, both will strip the middle-class of their wealth. However, the new laws and the State of Emergency will go on much longer than the virus! They'll be smashing down doors and seizing computers to see who is spreading anti-Govt rumours on the net about Covid, vaccines, biowarfare etc, when talking about conspiracies is declared 'anti-social'. I'll just add.. I'm listening to NZ's best audio journalist, Leighton Smith, and he is interviewing the man who sent over 25years trying to convince the medicine/political system that stomach ulcers were not caused by stress and acid, but by a bacterial infection! 25years it took! Now you will get anti-bacterial treatment if you have an ulcer, no problem. Anyway, Professor Borody has cured people of Covid 19 with ivermectin, zinc and doxycycline. From about 20minutes in- https://www.spreaker.com/user/nzme/leighton-smith-podcast-episode-78-august So, the cure is there, but the political will, especially in the medical heirarchy and the multi-billion dollar drug industry, is not!

Road-going afterwards? Are you allowed to cut 'n shut the transmission tunnel/firewall?? That would be the first thing to look at. Also the 4cyl would fit easier than the 6 I assume, and put less weight over the nose. The Gen 1 are a little long-stroke for revving, so that won't be a screamer, but 2L of torque will be great to drive. The Gen 2 is a big step ahead if you can get one of those in 2L for it's equal bore to stroke. What was the Gen 2 in that had RWD?? I wouldn't recognise any of the cars listed with it in Wiki, they didn't appear in Aussie, but the Solstice looks a good start. You'll need to see how it gets mounted North-South, as the FWD cars often don't have bolt-holes on the sides of the block for RWD conversion, and they must have done something for that RWD. Whichever you get, it will involve new engine mounts on the cross-member, new gearbox mounts, hydraulic clutch pedal box conversion, custom driveshaft and exhaust, and a stronger diff. Probably no harder than any other engine, but look out for how tall it is. There may be lots of excitement around the steering box in a small engine bay, and there will be plenty of mind-bending wiring to blend together. Remember the MX5-Miata are around, they are one of the few remaining RWD setups in light 4-cyls.

Well done! I'll bet that's a relief.

I bought a Gregorys years ago, but it didn't have wiring in for anything except lights, so I started on Google... Since then I've vacuumed up all sorts of data from the web and just use that. Grab any manual you can for basic stuff, then ask questions here! (you'll love the manual over the auto, so much quicker!)