altezzaclub

Well, the months are racing past! I went back up in April, and the first job was re-building the disc harrows. They've seen a lot of work since we replaced the discs 6years back, and there was more ploughing coming up. All the disc gangs and bearings off, we had new discs and some replacement bearing- the axle & brackets came out to try and take up some of the slack that has developed. It all went back together fine and its done a lot of hectares since then! This time I was staying up at the top farmhouse where the woolshed & workshop are to look after the black and white army, those two lazy cats. Steve was down in Tamworth staying with his Mum, he'd gone down soon after I left last time. After breaking the rally car, he broke up with his girlfriend, broke up with his navigator and broke two bones in his hand, all at once so he couldn't live by himself. That left me at a loose end in the house that hadn't been touched in decades, so I found some paint laying around. It was so old that the tin rusted through as soon as I started stirring it, but it turned out OK after filtering. I started painting ceilings and doors and varnishing window sills, and asked Pete to bring the Mothership up so we could clean out a truckload of rubbish. That evening Steve came up and had a big go at me about taking over and moving his stuff and making decisions over his head, which is fair enough, but in the ensuing clash of giant egos it became clear we could no longer work together the way we have for the last eight years. So I finished what I was painting and came back to Orange. Maybe we'll sort out something when he's well again, or maybe we'll never build that 2.2L 3SGE Escort-beating KE70! We'll have to wait and see.

I haven't heard of it being done, but I've always thought its a great idea. The only surviving RWD 4cyl in mass production, most of the options are ancient or expensive. Its got to be easier than converting a FWD to a RWD gearbox, and you can buy a recent low-Km motor & 6-speed. There is plenty of knowledge about warming that motor up too. Go for it!

Wow! Big project! You might as well take the panels & doors off now, the shell will get a better rust-proof finish in all the hard-to-get places then. The P'pines must be hard on cars for rust, yours looks really good.

Set the points and timing first, so that is out of the way. Wind up the idle speed screw until it idles, it might be wandering from 1000 to 2000rpm, and see if altering the idle mixture screw makes a difference. I've taken the screw right out sometimes and its made no difference.. If you can't get them to synchronise in a good idle, then you're onto Banjo's list. Start with the idle circuit, which means pulling the carb off (check the fuel line filter as you disconnect the line) and then clean out the idle circuit. There are drillings though the carb body, so use an aerosol can with a tube on the nozzle or a syringe full of petrol. Pull the jets out & hose the crap out of all the passages you can find. The reason I'd start there is that idle uses very little fuel, so if it won't idle its more likely to be in that particular circuit than a pump problem. If the pump or filters are bad at idle it won't run well under power. The idle circuit actually has an effect on the power up to 2000rpm when it hands over to the main circuit fully. There are diagrams around on the web although it might be impossible to find the exact one. This might help- https://www.carburetor-parts.com/Aisan-Exploded-View_ep_2068.html Haha! WAIT!! Check the idle shutoff solenoid is working properly! If there is one on the carb it should click on when you turn the ignition on, and click off when you turn it off. If its not wired in or broken the car will just never idle.

Those wheels are great! Have you sealed the rust? We used a grinder on the old Hilux on the farm, but then ran over it with drying fisholene to keep the steel & rust like it was.

Well, while we're all under house arrest, there is time to think about 'why'. The Yanks have been bid-engineering viruses for quite some time, looking for 'gain of function', which means getting a more contagious and more deadly form of the virus. They had two Chinese researchers there a few years back, and when the USA Govt banned that type of work around 2014-2017, those experts in bat coronavirus went back to China. A new lab was set up in Wuhan and funded from the Pentagon. So- Option A- last year the American Army lab at Fort Detrick was shut down over their inability to follow procedures and contain biological organisms. Last year the USA had a lot of pneumonial deaths they wrote off to the flu or to the new vaping craze. Last year the USA sent army personnel to the International Army Games in... Wuhan in China. There are 4 main strains of Covid 19, the USA and Australia have type A, Wuhan and most of Asia has the drivative type B, Europe has the third type C. So, did the virus escape from an army lab that was not meant to be doing that sort of work, type A gained a slow foothold then was taken to Wuhan by the athletes where type B arose and they both spread around the world. Option B- like A but it was deliberately released by the Yanks in China and Iran, and everyone was surprised when it spread so much. Option C- The Chinese researchers continued their work in Wuhan with the help of Americans, and it got out of the lab by accident. The rest is history. It was a bad year to Govt researching ways of killing people by disease. An explosion in a Russian biological laboratory, they denied any release, the American Army lab being closed for lousy work, they denied any release, the Chinese suffering Wuhan... not that any of this is going to stop Govts doing it! Of course Morrison is just a clown calling for an inquiry into China over it. "Independent" would mean letting the India or Turkey or some non-aligned nation do it, and there is no way the yanks would let that happen. Any inquiry would be told what 'facts' to find by Washington! Its time he grew some balls and refused to do the American's bidding, especially when it causes us such trouble as the beef or the $600million barley export market. This is part of a long article, one of many I've read about the genome sequence, where and how it started and got moving, and the strange way it attacks the body- -------------------------------------------- This report is the product of a collaboration between Dr. Karl Sirotkin, a retired professional scientist with dozens of peer-reviewed publications and 30 years of experience in genomic sequencing and analysis. It considers whether the Wuhan Strain of coronavirus (COVID-19) is the result of naturally emergent mutations against the possibility that it may be a bio-engineered strain – directly altered by genetic manipulation, subject to artificially-guided evolutionary selection, or both – most likely released into the public by accident since China’s rate of occupational accidents is about ten-times higher than America’s, and some twenty-times more than Europe’s, the only other regions with high-level virology labs. Raising the odds of an accidental release, researchers from China’s only BSL-4 lab in Wuhan were reported to have particularly sloppy field research methods, being both bled and peed on by local bats that host coronaviruses remarkably similar to the Wuhan Strain COVID-19. And they’ve also been reported to smuggle used research animals out of their labs, selling them for cash on the street. Perhaps unsurprisingly, in mid February the Chinese Ministry of Science sent out a directive to all its labs emphasizing the important of carefully handling bio-infectious agents and alluding to slack oversight and past lapses, even mentioning coronaviruses specifically. Beijing has had four known accidental leaks of the SARS virus in recent years, so there is absolutely no reason to assume that this strain of coronavirus from Wuhan didn’t accidentally leak out as well. This is unlikely to be a plot twist in one of the novels Tom Clancy wrote after he started mailing it in. Simply and horribly, this is likely to become another Chernobyl or Fukushima – a catastrophic illustration of mankind’s hubris and intransigence clashing with Nature, as fate again reaps a once unimaginably tragic toll. Given that this outbreak was said to begin in early winter when most bat species in the region are hibernating and the Chinese horseshoe bat’s habitat covers an enormous swath of the region containing scores of cities and hundreds of millions people, the fact that this Wuhan Strain of coronavirus, denoted as COVID-19, emerged in close proximity to the only BSL-4 virology lab in China, which in turn was staffed with at least two Chinese scientists – Zhengli Shi and Xing-Yi Ge – both virologists who had previously worked at an American lab which had already bio-engineered an incredibly virulent strain of bat coronavirus – the accidental release of a bio-engineered virus from Wuhan’s virology lab cannot be automatically discounted, especially when the Wuhan Strain’s unnatural genomic signals are considered. Artificially enhancing selection by intentionally infecting countless series of lab animals with different viruses is understood to have created the H1N1 Swine Flu. Its Franken-genome has a mysterious untraceable genetic parentage and a “clear unnatural origin,” appearing to be the product of “sequential passage in an animal reservoir” which was determined by its vast genetic distance from any extant strain of flu, just like COVID-19 which also appears so distant from any related coronavirus that it’s been placed in its own clade, an isolated branch way out on its own in the viral family tree – meaning it’s the lone example of its kind, and doesn’t clump together with all the other known coronaviruses. Both the H1N1 Swine Flu and COVID-19 sprung into existence spontaneously, and were distant off-shoots of any other known strain of flu – so why is there a scientific consensus that the former leaked out of a lab, while many insist the latter is entirely natural? A virus gets weakened as its initially attempting to jump into a new host species, which is why this sequence of steps – one new host, a few new hosts that pass it among themselves temporarily, and then finally sustained transmission – takes at least several months if not years to play out, since a good bit of time is required for all three steps to occur. Viral trial-and-error is required for the virus to find the right mutations that will allow it to prosper in a new host species, it’s never been known to just happen magically all at once. People getting ill with non-transmittable Covid19 would be treated and noticed in all these steps. And in 2018, a study looking for past infections by bat coronaviruses in Wuhan found no evidence whatsoever that anyone there had ever been infected by one at all, making the idea that these viruses have been circulating there entirely absurd. Tinkering with viral genomes is not anything new, but is not something that has ever been fully embraced by the scientific community at large. About a decade ago, two separate research teams successful tweaked the genome of the H5N1 Bird Flu in just two spots and then passed it through ferrets until it became both airborne and pathogenic to mammals, creating a virus that “could make the deadly 1918 pandemic look like a pesky cold.” This involved selecting for a mutation that allowed the virus to access a receptor that’s found in ferret lungs, and was alarming enough that the research was urged to be published without revealing the specific methods involved and data collected – however it appears that only the most technical details were left out, and most of the research is freely available. Studies examining COVID-19’s infectivity in ferrets found that it spreads readily among them, and also appears airborne in that animal model, lending support to the idea that ferrets were used for serial passage. Further support for possibility that serial passage through lab animals played a role in the creation of COVID-19 comes from an April 2020 pre-print, which found that coronaviruses that target the ACE2 receptor bind with ferrets cells more tightly than any other species except the tree shrew, which only scored about 2% higher. Tree shrews have also been used for serial viral passage, and were promoted in a 2018 paper out of China as a preferable host for laboratory serial passage since they’re cheaper, smaller, easier to handle, and closer to humans evolutionarily and physiologically than ferrets. Pangolins however, formed a much weaker bond than either, and were clustered way down on the list along with a handful of other much more unlikely intermediate animal hosts. By 2015, Dr. Ralph Baric and his team at UNC were conducting research that was met with an enormous amount of concern, they successfully created a “chimeric, SARS-like virus” by altering the viral genome of a Chinese bat coronavirus’s spike-protein genes – sequences that code for the spikes that poke out from surface of viruses and allow them to unlock entry into hosts, in this case making the bio-engineered coronavirus incredibly contagious. This research raised eyebrows since it was clearly dual-use gain-of-function research, a practice banned in America from 2014 until December 2017 when NIH lifted the ban, specifically to allow research on this sort of virus. Looking at UNC’s gain-of-function research on coronavirus spike-proteins, which received its funding just before the ban was implemented and was only allowed to go forward following a special review, a virologist with the Louis Pasteur Institute of Paris warned: “If the [new] virus escaped, nobody could predict the trajectory.”

Ah- so the sender unit is one of these. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/150mm-Fuel-Gauge-Level-Sender-Sensor-Tank-Water-for-Car-Boat-Marine-240-33ohms/183225155455?hash=item2aa911ff7f:g:03IAAOSwKVtcmuZA I'll have to stick a tape in the tank and see how deep a KE70 one is. The rheostat one I bought is hopeless, even if labelled 'for a KE70', it only has half the range needed. A write-up and a wiring diagram when you're finished please! I'd like to stick with the KE70 gauge, but the resistances are probably incompatible.

Banjo got me onto these, blame him! No helmets, no race suits, no driving shoes, no cages, no lifejackets, no.... just takes big balls and it makes our motorsport look pretty tame!

Oh I see! That is a lot in that case. Do you crank it with the accelerator open, or crank it with your foot off? I see people start a car with their foot off the pedal, which gives it max vacuum advance, although I start a car with maybe 20% gas so at cranking speed there is virtually no vacuum & no vacuum advance. I did a lot of work with vacuum advance and springs when I fitted an electronic dizzy, they are hopeless for advance as they're made for 5K forklifts. Eventually I found the right springs to give low advance at idle and a fast curve up to 35deg at 3000rpm. I marked the pulley with 'liquid paper' or some similar typing correction liquid so I could measure out to 50deg. Your manifold vac gives max advance at idle & over-run, and a large advance at cruise, and no advance under acceleration. Other carb manufacturers use a port advance which gives no advance at idle and max at high rpm, so there are options out there. The vacuum advance is for pollution control, to get a better burn and cut nitrous oxide emissions in lean conditions, you can disconnect it and just run on the weights in the dizzy. That's worth a try, plug the hose with a nail and set the timing to 10deg at idle, and see how it drives. It will be cranking against only that 10deg then, a much easier job. Most of the dizzy work is here-

Usual one would be phosphoric acid, which turns the rust into black iron phosphate. Don't buy one with acrylic paint in, just plain H3PO4. I've never worried about it, they don't rust when full of fuel so the only important part is stopping water getting in. I don't know about using electrolysis on it, that will pit the steel and it may be quite thin already on the bottom if the tank has had water sitting in it in the past. Either way, it should be interesting!

You could pull the idle advance back to 5deg or even zero and see if it makes a starting difference. 25deg is a bit low for total advance I thought, don't they go out to 35deg?

"And yes, it's running on bike carbs! " Ooohh.. nice! Have you checked the mixture with an O2 sensor reader? I've always wondered how well they stick to 14.7. If it always starts OK on first start when cold, then it must be temperature related somehow. That's the only change really, it should start easier the second time from the battery being more charged and the oil being thinner and the metal in the combustion chamber being warm. I know windings can wear out as well as just burn out, their resistance goes up and electric motors lose power, but the only way to check is to fit a different starter motor you know is working fine. I haven't seen the resistance of a starter motor written down anywhere, otherwise you could measure yours. Does it have a starter relay or is the power for the solenoid going straight through the key? Meh- that usually just gives a click and doesn't turn the starter motor, rather than turns it slowly. Well, the solution will be interesting!

..or a webcam under the bonnet hooked to a laptop on the passenger's seat, which is what I used. I wrapped the first set of extractors fully, and they melted the pipes where they ran parallel down to the 4-1 junction. This was hauling heavy loads up steep forestry tracks at low speeds, the absolute worst nightmare. The camera showed they glowed at 100kph, but not hot enough to spall the metal off or melt them out of shape like the forestry work did. The second set I part wrapped & left that straight run open, which is why I fitted a heat shield. These look like the old extractors as I was modelling stuff up. Those look like bike carb inlets Viterbo..

Heat related?? Extractors right by it? I made a small heat-shield for mine, a piece of thin stainless steel (for reflection) in front of a bit of 5mm cement board. (for insulation to stop the heat that goes through the stainless steel) The stainless came from an old microwave cover. I slid it in between the starter and the extractors and wired it onto the extractors.

A pile of ancient bronze beer tankards on their sides? Prehistoric hammers from before they invented handles? A pile of scombs from that game like curling... whatsitname..

The whole car is designed to last as long as one spigot bearing would... The shudder is more likely to do with the mounts in an East-West motor, they'd be a lot more sensitive to that than a F/R drive. Maybe not having a spigot bearing at all doesn't lead to a shudder, or the shafts are shorter in new g'boxes, or a design change internally keeps the input stable. Pull the box apart and have a look! It saved Toyota about $2 by not having one in there!

How long have you raced it for? Did it sit un-used for a month or two? Did it rev fine, then stop revving when you changed something? Did you flush the carb drillings when you fitted the new kit? If you are correct about the fuel, then ignition timing would be next. Is the timing curve correct? If neither of those, then cam timing. But if it was running fine before and the carb is good, then it is something you have changed along the way.

Flatty and slanty are quite different from the screen forward- bonnet, (longer & different slant) guards, indicators, headlights, radiator panel, grille, scuttle by the screen, stone tray under the bumper... I have a spotless rustfree beige flatfront bonnet in Orange, but its not the sort of thing to mail readily.

"But at the coils + that wire it has power as soon as the igniton is turned on." The wire that powers the coil from Ign should be going to the ballast resistor then feeding 9V to the coil +ve, its the ST2 wire that feeds 12V to the coil while cranking. Although this may be incorrect I doubt it is feeding power to all your other systems.

OK, so the power switch only controls the start button, which means that switch is not needed at all. If the key system is working correctly then ig1 and ig2 work together, as do st1 and st2. The diagram you drew works fine, ign runs the car through the ballast resistor at 9V, st2 starts it through 12V directly to the coil. You could run the starter button off the ign wire too if you put a relay on it. The automatic KE70s had this already wired in, a 'button' on the gearbox neutral switch that worked a relay that worked the starer solenoid. An option would be to run the button powered all the time, it turns the starter motor but the car wouldn't start without the key being turned on to power the coil. There should be no way power can flow back from the starter to ign2, so long as no other wires come off that wire from the battery to contact 1 on the starter button. Does anything happen if you turn the pwr switch off after you've started the car? If the points are closed when the key is on ign then current flows through the coil and the coil heats up over a few minutes. If the motor stopped with the points open, no current will flow when you have the key turned on, so the coil doesn't get hot.

The Dropbox diagram is too small for me to see detail, but there is an igniter on this diagram. It doesn't have the ballast resistor the older coil cars have. The ballast resistor needed two ignition circuits from the key, one to bypass the resistor when starting and feed 12V straight to the coil positive, and the other circuit to run the car once it is started so it feeds into the ballast resistor to drop the voltage for the 9V coil. So the red wire from ST 2 goes straight to coil positive for starting, and the black/orange wire goes to the ballast resistor to run the motor. With an igniter you shouldn't have those, this USA diagram has just 3 ignition key positions and an igniter.

If the oil/charge lights go away and don't come back when you disconnect the battery it suggests a relay or an earth is involved. When you disconnect the battery it will break the circuit through any relays that are on, and they won't re-connect until the power is turned back on correctly. Dim bulbs or the wrong lights coming on suggests an earth is broken and the power is earthing out down the wrong circuit. Electrical problems are the most frustrating and slow to diagnose.

Have you go a wiring diagram? If not, there's one here, although each country has little differences. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Study that and see how power can get from the three fusible links to the rest of the car without going through the ignition key. I'd say disconnect the white wire from the alty and see what happens. If it has a starter button I'd expect someone to have wired it up incorrectly in the past, so you'll have to search out where it is different to factory. It may not be involved in the starter button at all but in something else they did.

make sure it is the problem and grab one off Ebay or a local parts place, they are not hard to find. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Joint-Front-Rear-for-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE30-01-74-01-78-/142544707582

...and not only that but those Goss pumps are noisy! Hang it off a lump of rubber if you buy one.