altezzaclub

The Dropbox diagram is too small for me to see detail, but there is an igniter on this diagram. It doesn't have the ballast resistor the older coil cars have. The ballast resistor needed two ignition circuits from the key, one to bypass the resistor when starting and feed 12V straight to the coil positive, and the other circuit to run the car once it is started so it feeds into the ballast resistor to drop the voltage for the 9V coil. So the red wire from ST 2 goes straight to coil positive for starting, and the black/orange wire goes to the ballast resistor to run the motor. With an igniter you shouldn't have those, this USA diagram has just 3 ignition key positions and an igniter.

If the oil/charge lights go away and don't come back when you disconnect the battery it suggests a relay or an earth is involved. When you disconnect the battery it will break the circuit through any relays that are on, and they won't re-connect until the power is turned back on correctly. Dim bulbs or the wrong lights coming on suggests an earth is broken and the power is earthing out down the wrong circuit. Electrical problems are the most frustrating and slow to diagnose.

Have you go a wiring diagram? If not, there's one here, although each country has little differences. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Study that and see how power can get from the three fusible links to the rest of the car without going through the ignition key. I'd say disconnect the white wire from the alty and see what happens. If it has a starter button I'd expect someone to have wired it up incorrectly in the past, so you'll have to search out where it is different to factory. It may not be involved in the starter button at all but in something else they did.

make sure it is the problem and grab one off Ebay or a local parts place, they are not hard to find. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Joint-Front-Rear-for-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE30-01-74-01-78-/142544707582

...and not only that but those Goss pumps are noisy! Hang it off a lump of rubber if you buy one.

Its a puzzle. It will be interesting to find out what is wrong when you solve it.

The mesh of the teeth on the starter and the flywheel can also load the motor a lot. If its all stock that shouldn't be a problem. If the block doesn't match the gearbox bellhousing in the same way it can jam the starter. You could check battery voltage with a multimeter, 12.5-13V sitting there, over 8V when cranking. The relay puts more amps to the solenoid & doesn't power the starter motor. Other than bad wiring I can't think of anything that makes a good starter smoke. Its possible both motors had poor windings or burnt solenoids. Did it crank over slowly or quickly?

Yes! I had this marked out on the old rally car and never got around to doing it. I was thinking about it yesterday for the new build, but I don't have the press for the ribs. Those low floor areas take such a hammering.

You changed the positive wire carrying the heavy current, but what about the earth to carry it back?? Make sure its the same size heavy wire and its bolted tight to motor and body. It needs good crimping on its terminals too.

What! How Un-Australian! We must all pull together to survive this UN-mandated pandemic and if we put up with a little inconvenience it won't hurt us! Besides, we'll take the Army off the streets and won't have them stopping you to check who you are and what you are doing ...just as soon as this virus is gone! Vanished from the last faulty tests we are using that give completely unreliable results, but are a great excuse to do what we want! Maybe late June, you can all be dole-bludgers until then and we will just print money to give you. Of course we will never actually remove the laws from the books, we'll just "not enforce" them until the next pandemic when we need them, and in the meantime you can all enjoy the compulsory vaccinations needed as soon as we can make one. Road accidents killed 92 Australians in February, compared to 20-odd for the Coronavirus. The cost of keeping 10 or 20thousand older people alive for one more year has been 'the whole Australian economy', it will be years and years to build it back up.

What is not working on the car?? Here is a wiring diagram, its for the KE70 with a 4K motor, not the 2T. There are always differences in wiring between countries too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

Make a careful budget for this project, you'll probably spend a similar amount whether you use a K motor or a newer 16valve with twice the power. What Coln says is right, do up a K and enjoy it, it will cruise at 110kph, overtake cars with a bit of work, and even manage to go up most hills. However I figure you need a 4AGE to really keep up with anything. At Woolshed Rallying we have four 4AGE-powered KE70s and none of those motors have had a rebuild since they were bought. That makes their cost plus the T50 gearbox about the same as rebuilding a K motor. Even better, about $3000 will buy you an Altezza half-cut with the 3SGE and the J160 6-speed, but the associated engineering costs push this price up. 4K- 43KW (58 hp) at 5200 rpm and 90 N⋅m Hot 4K- 55-60KW, maybe 95Nm 5K- 53KW, 105Nm or so 4AGE- 95 kW 142 N⋅m 2ZZGE- 141 kW 181 N⋅m . The gearbox will be difficult! 3SGE- 154 kW 216 N⋅m

Yep- We did the basic stuff like that- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Makes a great little run-around, light & nimble.

Same as any conversion- drop the motor & gearbox in the hole, make new engine mounts to fit then make gearbox mounts. You'll want that tall engine as low as possible, we have the sump just below the cross-member in the rally car. You might have trouble getting the g'box past the steering rack, we drop the cross-member on its bolts to do that, although we're using a J160 box which has a big bellhousing. You will need to convert the cable clutch to hydraulic, or convert the g'box to cable. The AE71 pedal box is hydraulic and goes straight into a KE70. Then you'll need a new custom-made driveshaft and a new exhaust system. If you're having it injected you need to sort the wiring, which is why carbs are simpler. All of this thread applies as usual.. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/64432-how-to-tackle-that-engine-conversion/

Got some good photos... Now it a matter of grinding & welding.. I came back to Orange today for a dental appmt, and 50km out they ph'd and said the University is cancelling all the clinics. So, we should be back into it this weekend! Nothing unexpected broke, everything we manufactured worked well, especially the suspension, so its a case of copy it over and improve each piece a little.

Just a big bureaucracy, like they all become. Why doesn't the FIA issue reports of the hundreds of rally crashes with analysis of what failed and what didn't? That should be their real job. Anyway, the $140 of foam turned out to be as hard as the cage tube, it would dent your skull if you were on an open section with no helmet. The day went well, nothing broke, nothing fell off, people were impressed by how quick it was. Steve was running 1st in class B, & harassing the leader of the 2litres when the inevitable happened, and it came home like this- That was a short life! By this evening it looks like this- and by lunch tomorrow it will be out in the paddock and the next shell will be in the workshop! Rallying...

Well, amazingly enough the Purple People Eater was ready on time and the gang headed out this afternoon. 3Hrs down to the coast for the Love Motorsport Rallysprint, there's only one job left to do. Apparently Bunnings plumbing insulation foam tube at $2.50/M is no longer good enough to cover the rollcage, and we need FIA-approved foam tube at $70/900mm !! WTF! No wonder motorsport is full of rich wankers poncing around in their tailor-made driving suits having never held a spanner, and meanwhile no working man can afford to enter! When we asked which part of the regulations said that, we were told it wasn't in the regulations, but we will need it to compete... There is plenty of non-FIA approved padding for sale on the web and it a lot less to buy! So, which official hold the import licence I wonder?

Have you got wiring diagrams for it?? These- I don't know much about the FWD models, but converting my KE70 to 4AGE I just tied together a lot of various wiring diagrams from the net until it eventually made sense.

Yesterday we dismantled the panhard mount and re-shaped it. Of course it broke just at the end of the heavy "C" section that hides inside the cross-brace, there are 3 layers of steel there. The problem was only 3 spot-welds along most edges, something we rectified. A bit of reinforcing and now I better get up there to put the diff back in! Then we need a Terratrip probe out of Mao as the ones in the rally car are playing up. Rallysprint this coming weekend!

A week up here saw the rally car running, it was mainly just bolting on panels- The colour was quite random, it was purple, then we figured white, then cbf... Steve took it over the road to the long driveway and gave it a good caning, which of course showed little leaks and teething problems. Then he took out Mao and ran that as they have the same running gear. A long discussion about how the rally car had much better traction but Mao was smoother followed, and after he cleaned them both we found out why.. The whole panhard mount had been torn off mao's chassis, probably ages ago and finally let go in the testing! Of course other things were happening, with the rain there was sowing and harrowing to be done. The 'new' harrows came from a clearance sale last year and they had been lying up against a gum tree for twenty years. It was a big enough job to cut the branch off the tree to remove them, now we had to get the stump out. The wood had encased the steel completely! once we had that sorted he was off to the paddock! Meanwhile Richo was rebuilding a new head for his 200B wagon, the water jacket had eaten under the head gasket- Matt was waiting for parts to fit to the KE70 wagon so he started on his RA65 paint- I had Leone to fit a repaired ignition barrel to so it could go for a pink slip-

I've only seen them with fuel connection at the front, throttle cable at the rear. I expect it doesn't matter as far as the motor is concerned.

OMG! What's the rest of the motor like?

Well, I'm heading back up to the farm tomorrow, but yesterday I popped down to josh's to give him a hand with the latest race car.. With the Evo 5 running in the top 5 of the Whiteline Sprints, the Evo 3 with a new nose awaiting assembly and being bored with the Skyline drift car, he needed something new to do. An almost-free rustbucket of a KE70 with all the flatty front removed was the job! When I arrived he'd just welded the diff & was extending the LCAs. We added 25mm there, then cut the tie-rod ends and did the same. Then he cut the steering arms and took 10mm out of them. While he was welding I took the rear springs out... This gave an acceptable ride setup... Don't worry about our wing, we'll finish that later. Love those 5.5inchx13s! He'd aquired a Ford Falcon carb and figured a 4L setup will run on a 1.3L. it took a lot of fiddling to get the throttle cable fitted and working, and get the idle under 3000rpm- We took it for a test down the bottom paddock, where it died of course. Eventually we pushed it back up with a bobcat and pulled the carb to pieces. Having solved that we took it down again whereupon it died again! This time we pulled it back up with the ute and checked the fuel pump as well.. Today he's buying an electric pump and hopefully its ready for a thrash in a gymkhana sometime! We did spend an hour welding mods onto an aluminium sumpguard Steve was given by a guy who had it on an Escort. We're trying to get away from having vertical bolts up from underneath. That goes up with me tomorrow as we need the car ready in a couple of weeks for a rallysprint as a test before the Orange rally. Josh's Evo3 is on the same timetable..

Well done! Another problem crossed off the list.. Now at least you have it running well before you think about any mods for more grunt.

" The US use MON not RON to measure fuel octane " Well I never... Thankyou Sir, here I was thinking they ran crummy fuel...