altezzaclub

By now you will have checked for damage on the gearbox fitting and found out why the threaded piece in your fingers was still there. It either ripped the matching thread off the gearbox or it was unscrewed before it fell off, or it was torn off and ruined. I've been hunting a few photos I have of repairing those units, I just can't find them. You'll need a new cable at least, from the look of it, and there should be a big nylon gear sticking out the top end of the piece in your hand. What else have you found under there.

"Only by eliminating the virus can we ease the restrictions. " Not going to happen... We have as much chance as with eliminating influenza or the common cold. It will burn out and become less virulent via the normal mutations of viruses, but it will be around for decades. The chance of a successful vaccine is also very slim, but I suppose if its 50% effective it will be called a win for the billionaires behind it. The safest assumption is that we will all get it sooner or later, and if your time is up you'll die. For those who go on living, the world will be slowly sliding back to the 1970s, then the 1960s, then the 1950s... Its no good having flash new electric cars when unemployment is 20% and inflation is the same. Empty shops, deserted malls, no 'luxuries', plenty of time at home but no holidays away... Self-preservation will make people wash their hands and wear masks, not Govt thugs. Seeing someone you know die from it will sharpen your focus amazingly! But the reality is we are crushing the economy for people who are past their '3score years plus 10' and who would likely die within the next year anyway. Look upon it as an acceleration of inheritance, something that was going the other way in past decades. The final result? A generation of people where the young learn to live without jobs, the middle-aged find they have no savings and the old die from pneumonia in their 70s instead of their 80s or 90s. Somewhere along the line we have to pay for the money Govt is throwing around, be it in increased taxes or inflation, both will strip the middle-class of their wealth. However, the new laws and the State of Emergency will go on much longer than the virus! They'll be smashing down doors and seizing computers to see who is spreading anti-Govt rumours on the net about Covid, vaccines, biowarfare etc, when talking about conspiracies is declared 'anti-social'. I'll just add.. I'm listening to NZ's best audio journalist, Leighton Smith, and he is interviewing the man who sent over 25years trying to convince the medicine/political system that stomach ulcers were not caused by stress and acid, but by a bacterial infection! 25years it took! Now you will get anti-bacterial treatment if you have an ulcer, no problem. Anyway, Professor Borody has cured people of Covid 19 with ivermectin, zinc and doxycycline. From about 20minutes in- https://www.spreaker.com/user/nzme/leighton-smith-podcast-episode-78-august So, the cure is there, but the political will, especially in the medical heirarchy and the multi-billion dollar drug industry, is not!

Road-going afterwards? Are you allowed to cut 'n shut the transmission tunnel/firewall?? That would be the first thing to look at. Also the 4cyl would fit easier than the 6 I assume, and put less weight over the nose. The Gen 1 are a little long-stroke for revving, so that won't be a screamer, but 2L of torque will be great to drive. The Gen 2 is a big step ahead if you can get one of those in 2L for it's equal bore to stroke. What was the Gen 2 in that had RWD?? I wouldn't recognise any of the cars listed with it in Wiki, they didn't appear in Aussie, but the Solstice looks a good start. You'll need to see how it gets mounted North-South, as the FWD cars often don't have bolt-holes on the sides of the block for RWD conversion, and they must have done something for that RWD. Whichever you get, it will involve new engine mounts on the cross-member, new gearbox mounts, hydraulic clutch pedal box conversion, custom driveshaft and exhaust, and a stronger diff. Probably no harder than any other engine, but look out for how tall it is. There may be lots of excitement around the steering box in a small engine bay, and there will be plenty of mind-bending wiring to blend together. Remember the MX5-Miata are around, they are one of the few remaining RWD setups in light 4-cyls.

Well done! I'll bet that's a relief.

I bought a Gregorys years ago, but it didn't have wiring in for anything except lights, so I started on Google... Since then I've vacuumed up all sorts of data from the web and just use that. Grab any manual you can for basic stuff, then ask questions here! (you'll love the manual over the auto, so much quicker!)

You can buy a new Mig welder for that money, so everyone does. Makes it difficult to compare..

Well, there's a big difference between what you own and what you are looking at buying, and that is RWD compared to FWD. They take quite different driving styles to get the maximum, and some people are suited to one, some the other. FWD have an inbuilt stability that comes from the driving wheels pulling the car along behind them, so the rear wheels follow the front more easily. The tradeoff is the constant understeer and wicked oversteer if the tail does lose grip. Watch the European 2L saloon championships on Youtube and see how many people can catch a FWD when the tail slides, almost none of them. They are faster for the power as they lose less in the drivetrain. RWD have the rear pushing the front straight ahead, so any turning lets the rear step out into oversteer. The advantage is far better turn-in at a corner, and if the tail steps out you can steer it with the throttle. So for me there is no question, a RWD. I'd go for a KE70, cheaper than a Celica yet has the same motor and suspension. The suspension becomes the important part if you're going track racing. An MX5 will have all the tech developed to be a race car, they've been popular since they were new, and if you're not fussy about car make then that would be the best bet. If you want a FWD, find a 20valve for the car you have, I think its the same shell isn't it. If you like racing it then keep your eyes open for the one with the fancy rear suspension. No matter what you decide on, go do dirt gymkhanas in it to sort out the drifting feel, or wet tarmac ones. You don't want to start learning at full speed in a new car! --------------------- Check out mark blundell at 1.46min in here- This is a great series for pitting FWD against 4WD against RWD from the different manufacturers, and there's no doubt FWD lightness and power does well.

Are the weights set up for a car in those dizzys? It would be a better buy than those made for fork hoists or whatever they were! Yeah, I'm hearing stories from him about having to wear a mask every day. Good thing he didn't buy a house in central Melb... Good luck you guys down there-

Love it! Especially the water tank! Shame about the dog dying...

The red dots are where I blocked the hoses off, leaving only the vacuum advance on the dizzy and the charcoal canister. I haven't got a 4K anymore, but take a look and see if that diaphram hooks into the throttle stop. It might be just to slow the throttle closing down so it doesn't snap shut. That's for emissions control, like injected motors these days lose revs slowly. Seeing I blocked it off and the car ran fine, its not crucial, although that was a lot of years ago to remember. Ah- the HIC is a hot idle compensator, so it holds the throttle open in some situations and lets it close right down in others. The 'jet' is often a vacuum delay, so no vac is allowed through until its stronger than a spring. OK, here its called a Throttle Positioner, and seeing its marked late model it shouldn't be on a 3K

They will lower fuel consumption, which I watch pretty carefully. Sadly the half a L/100Km it will save you is never enough to justify the very noticeable extra cost, so I settle for United's 95octane. Like you, I can't feel the difference, but those long 500Km runs over the same roads to the farm give me pretty sharp figures.

OMG! Time flies! I've made one trip up to the farm in the KE70, and one in the Altezza. Then back home since Easter or so. With 4 cars and three drivers the KE70 stays in the garage with the Altezza in the driveway in front of it, so I drive the Altezza. Naturally, when I go to drive the Corolla.. the battery is flat! Charge it up and take it downtown, and it suddenly cuts out and dies! The guy behind at the lights helps push it off the road, and of course it fires up without me doing anything. Drive for another Km and it dies again! Wait a minute and it fires up! I figure fuel starvation as there are no error codes and so I have re-fit the mixture display, which shows it leaning out as it dies. I look inside the tank in case the lift pump has dropped off again, but its fine. I take the fuel rail return line off an run it through the car with some clear hose. It never empties. I start thinking the main pump may be dying from a bad relay in the COR setup, so put a wire from the battery direct to the pump, tucked away under the air filter... and that's when I find one of the wires on the pump is not firmly on the terminal at all! I assume it was moving off under some acceleration or other, the motor dies and it falls back into place! Having put it on firmly and seeing it do two days of running around, I hope that was the problem and the fix. I've sold the Altezza and its one car each now!

How's it going?? Done any more??

Lovely! I've just returned from the Botanic Gardens chasing my cuttings forcing cabinet as one probe seems to give ridiculous readings. I measured the resistances and voltages produced and found the dud one to be out. It was showing 39deg in the gravel on the bottom of the cabinet while it was cold and wet. So I check Rollaclub over lunch & what do i find? Here's Banjo with the readings and temperatures of the two-wire thermistor thingy I have in my hand! Well done that man! So the dud probe reads 0.3 to 0.2mV and 5.9Kohm, shows 40.4deg The probe I put right next to it reads 0.1 to 0.0mV and 10.2Kohm, shows 24.6deg The top probe reads 0.1mV and 8.2Kohm, showing 29.7deg I'll find out what it is I need to buy and replace that one. How do they go wrong Banjo? Mechanical flex changing wire resistance? Anyway, now you've solved my problem... back to the electronic K motor!

OK, generate a timing curve with a timing light & tacho, and see if the electronic dizzy has been re-curved to suit a car & not a forkhoist. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/ That make a the biggest difference to performance once I'd fitted the electronic dizzy, maybe yours has been done already. The mixture display works well as you can watch it under all sorts of driving conditions, although once the jets are set up you don't touch them again. Here's the Weber jet suggestion list-

Nice job! That looks really smart! What exhaust do you have on it? Stock manifold? You could measure the cam specs yourself with a protractor on the crank. That would give you opening and closing, and hence degrees. A dial gauge on a rocker at the same time would give you lift. Fiddly, but not hard. Power range comes from where the inlet closes, that's why people use adjustable cam drives with hot cams. If you want to do it I'll give you details, but you'll need big protractor and preferably a dial gauge. Pop the base plate out of the distributor and make sure its clean and greased underneath so the weights can work smoothly. Are you using stock points or electronic?? If they're stock make sure the gap is correct and there is no volcano on one face giving a false reading. If you replace the points always replace the condenser. Set to 10deg at idle with a timing light, no vac advance. Check it advances out to 35deg or thereabouts when you rev it. K motors will take more advance than 10deg, it really depends on your carbs, your fuel and your altitude. First do a plug cut by pulling a good full-power run in 3rd one day, whip your foot off the accelerator & kill the ignition at the same time. Take out the plugs on the side of the road and check for colour. Really white will be lean, any soot on the center will be rich. There are jet suggestions on the web, I'll look some up later. The best is a mixture display running off an oxy sensor in the exhaust, or a dyno tune. That's a start....

Ah, OK, so you have a blank slate for engines. Still cheapest is a 4K, and anything else depends on the balance of how good the motor is, how hard it is to fit & how big your budget is. You could just buy a 4K until you're off your P's, although even that will need a stack of other bits like clutch cable setups, throttle cables, choke cables, exhaust system, driveshaft, and other bits you might not have been sold. You'll need someone wrecking a KE70, or a good local wrecking yard. Buy another KE70 to run around in for a couple of years!

Its quite possible, but a pain. The crank comes down a long way so the sump doesn't drop clear of the crossmember. Undo the engine mounts and jack the motor up on one side, I think I used the exhaust manifold to jack on. The studs Banjo is talking about are the 4 under the cam chain cover on the front. If you do the job replace those with bolts. I took the sump right off as I recall, cleaned it all up and glued the new gasket in place as its easy to muck up sealing the back of it under the car.

SamQ has a list- https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/toyota-a-series-flywheels/ Mine is on the left, stock bigport, yours on the right, 4AGZE. ...and.. "yeh only 4agze flywheels have the pedestals. all the n/a flywheels are flat. " https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57585-flywheel-help-toyota/

Ask the Dept Transport or whoever it is now, and even then you might get an opinion rather than a law. Any answers on here are just opinions and wouldn't constitute legal advice. You would get away with a 5K, but for what improvement it is you might as well just fit a good 4K. You could try the 5K pistons into a 4K block if you have a ratty 4K that needs a rebuild, but really no K motor is worth spending thousands of dollars on. A 4AGE KE70 is a great combo, ask them about that as it was in the AE86 and that would weigh the same, and I'm sure you'd be allowed a FWD Corolla with a 4AGE on your Ps. However the 4AGE means another whole crossmember-engine-gearbox-driveshaft change and that won't be cheap. I expect that putting a 4AGE in will cost you more than the car. Even the engineering can cost thousands of dollars and they can ask you to do some stupid things to the rest of the car. Actually, what brakes are on it, and was it road legal with certificates when you bought it? Sure as hell that CA18 won't be good for it. What diff did he fit??

Wooo! That's a lot of work! How far into the manifold ports did you fill?

" The horn circuit should be alive, in most cars, even when the ignition is off. " Yep, this bit. The white wire should be live all the time, carrying power to the horn. The green wire will be live also if the horn is OK. Its the steering wheel button that earths it out and makes the horn work.

There should be two horns, one on each side. There should be more bolts holding on the stone tray than what you have there too! It looks a mess, all you can do is sit down and work out what the last guy did. The indicators on the slanty KE70 are in the sidelight, in the flatfront they are in the guards. Both have them in the bumpers. From the diagram, most 'green and something' wires are indicators, the horns being white and then green/black. If you can find a white wire, check for permanent 12V. If you can find a permanent 12V wire there, (no ignition on) then that's a start. The return wire to the horn will have to be green /black.

Yes, from the hazard fuse to the horns, they're in parallel and likely to have dirty, poor connections, then back to the steering wheel and earths out via the ring behind the steering wheel. That's another place to get poor contact. If the hazard lights work I'd check the wiring for 12V at the horns, and if it still doesn't work then pop the steering wheel apart and see if 12V is arriving back there. The contact pin that is pushed against the ring for turning the steering wheel obviously wears away.

Tor! You're the man! That explains it all !