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By then Louie had arrived to continue the battle with his KE70, he'd driven it into the ground and the list was long. The biggest was a blown head gasket & a completely collapsed rear uni in the driveshaft. A skim sorted the head out- Then it was worth porting the intakes to match the gasket- and we pulled the block out to tip it on its side and scrape all the rust & scale out. As usual, over half a cup of crap was blocking #4 water jacket. The biggest problem was matching the manifolds to the head, the intake/exhausts were not flat and the manifold gasket wouldn't last long. We tried three manifolds, all of which destroyed the hotspot bolts when we tried to take them apart, and finally the 4th pair were OK. A couple of days and it was running, so now it awaits rust work. Of course there was a stack of other jobs to do, like once again re-welding the farm bike's stand with yet another improved design. The last one must have done 4 or 5years, we'll see if this one is better. The Woolshed tanks ran out of water, which means the caravan did, as the gutters went downhill and then up to them. So we got in behind the tanks and jacked the whole wall up on its rotted post. A few bricks and some timber re-aligned everything and now it actually catches water. After that we finally did some work on the rally car for a few days. The trip up next week will be the big one, there is a rally sprint in mid-March, and the car doesn't look any different from its last photo! It does have sill jack mounts and a motorised Mercedes stick jack, and a manual switch with a warning light for the electric fan, but not much else!

Another trip in Feb showed more reasons why the rally car isn't built! A flush of enthusiasm bought in an elderly rusty campervan, although in reasonable nick for its age. Registration prep took the first week, fixing small shit and changing all the oils. The expensive part was between all the new steering joints underneath, the cross link that came in at $300! Toyota use forged ends for the balljoints and just weld different length pipe in between, but nothing on any of the other farm utes/trucks was this wide. We figure the previous guy did it all up but finally balked at this one. Apparently only three in Australia.. With that on the road the next was the Hilux ute, something to nip onto town with when we needed a large something else picked up. The previous owner had completely ruined the paint with a closed-door closed-eye respray in black and white, and Steve wanted it back to original. We took the tray off and Cainy set to cleaning the paint off that- I set about panelbeating everything & Steve cleaned the paint off the cab. Although quick, somehow a flapper disc wasn't the way to go... After a day or two I realised the front wasn't really connected to the chassis in any meaningful way.. and the floor was almost ready for Flintstone power! It was at this time the Hilux was demoted to 'unregisterable farm ute', so it ended up with a freshly painted tray, a clearcoat cab, mongrel guards and a new rust-proof battery tray!

That is a shit year! The Welfare State is just an expensive lottery, and if you win you will get everything you need and even more that you don't.. but for many people all you get is a long story of frustration and a paperwork trail that needs a lawyer to unravel. GM reckon Holden will run service for a decade after they officially shut the brand, but in the end the same number of people will buy new cars and need the same number of service dealers, so there will be the same number of jobs going. You might end up with Dongfeng or Geely or Great Wall as the Chinese industry expands overseas, or Aussie might have to change to driving on the right to even get new cars! Best wishes to your wife, that's about the worst thing that can happen in life.

A good compression reading would be over 150psi. 180psi would be excellent, 130psi OK but just so-so. Have a think about how the cam chain is tensioned- Their big brothers in the 18RG line suffer timing chain slap readily and replacement slides to hold the chain are hard to find. Skimming the head makes the chain slack worse. I can't put a figure on it, and 8.5:1 is pretty abysmal I will admit. There is plenty on the web about how to measure your combustion chamber volume and area and calculate how much to skim off to get a particular compression ratio, I've explained it on here a few times. Do a lot more reading and ask a lot more questions....

I haven't heard of anyone converting a K box to hydraulic, but it should be quite possible if you fabricate a mount for the slave cylinder. The obvious problem is the cable pulls while the slave cyl pushes, so measure the travel with a cable setup and see if you can find a slave cylinder that travels that far. Then make a steel frame that bolts onto the side of the box and carries the slave, and fabricate some sort of connection between the slave's rod and the clutch lever's hook. Finally, get a flexible line made up that is long enough to reach. The big question is, if you're doing an engine conversion with an AE71 pedal box, why are you using a K box?? The usual path is for 4AGE or 3SGE, and neither use a K box.

Just to keep my hand in before I head back up to the farm I dropped around to Josh's to give him a hand on the Evo3 after he lost brakes on the Armidale rallysprint last year. After going up and over a bank at high speed it needed a new front. He had the motor out so Monday I unstitched the front and cut out some of the nav side chassis. Today we dragged the spare Lancer around and I dropped the motor/gearbox/K-bar out with the help of his brother Matt, sitting here in the Rolla that Josh is putting a cage in for a customer. With the mechanicals out we unstiched the front again, and by tonight had it sitting in the Evo3 waiting to be welded. I might get another day or two in before heading up to the farm this weekend. We're aiming on having both cars in the Orange Rally in a few months.

from Ron Owen's Guns bulletin... "After the 1939 fires, when a fire began near Frankston. Port Phillip Bay Victoria burned then through the Eastern part of the State 4,942,000 acres to the NSW border killing 71 people, over 1,300 homes and 69 sawmills were burned, and 3,700 buildings were destroyed. It was calculated that three-quarters of the State of Victoria was directly or indirectly affected by the disaster that caused a Royal Commission. That Commission recommended that the Forest Commission would supervise the construction and maintenance of Fire Access trails, (these trails would be wide enough to form fire breaks) throughout all of the State forests, that water points (Dams) would be built, Fire towers manned, that Dugout Shelters would be located on these fire Access Trails, and at logging camps giving shelter points for fire fighters. Most importantly the Commission recommended the ‘controlled burning’ off, in the cooler seasons of these blocks surrounded by the fire access trails in a Mosaic pattern to reduce the fuel on the forest floor. They also recommended that these area were logged within a pattern so that the forest did not become over mature and leave millions of dead trees still standing waiting to burn. Of course the commission also recommended that all settlements, farms, electrical power lines, houses have firebreaks and that the Forestry Commission ensure that every forest had a wide firebreak before it met the boundary fence of private property. The Commission also recommended that all forest areas be sectioned into Cattle leases so that grazing cattle would clean the firebreaks, trails and the forest floor and again improving the access. These recommendations were so successful that they were taken on board by NSW and Queensland, they protected the forest and protected the residents, yes there were still fires and still fatalities such as the grass fires at Lara Victoria in the late 1960s but no massive fires of significance until the Ash Wednesday fires of 1983 which was mostly in South Australia. Those recommendations from the 1939 Royal Commission that were not completely implemented until after WW2 continued to save lives and keep people safe for 40 years. Then We Got The GREEN Commission. Before the Green movement campaigned to stop the logging, stop the cattle, stop controlled reduction burning, keep 4 wheel drives out of the forest. “Lock the Forest Up” and Make it into a National Park where no one can go. They have even prosecuted people for making their own private property fire breaks, put them before the courts, tried them with legislation composed by the Green philosophy most have been fined and some have been sent to jail. All just want to protect their families, their homes and their livelihoods. Such as Mr Sheahan who is still angry about his prosecution, which cost him $100,000 in fines and legal fees. Mr Sheahan cleared trees up to 100 metres away from his house. “The council stood up in court and made us to look like the worst, wanton environmental vandals on the earth. We’ve got thousands of trees on our property. We cleared about 247,” he said. Save your Farm and Be Fined $100,000. by government prosecution. Although Liam Sheahan’s 2002 decision to disregard planning laws and bulldoze 250 trees on his hilltop property hurt his family financially and emotionally, he believes it helped save them and their home on the weekend. “The house is safe because we did all that,” he said as he pointed out his kitchen window to the clear ground where tall gum trees once cast a shadow on his house.”We have got proof right here. We are the only house standing in a two-kilometre area.”Mr Sheahan was prosecuted and it cost him $100,000. Save Your Farm Build a Fire Break and Be Fined a Million Dollars. Many other land holders have been fined just recently the largest fine to date has impacted on Mr Michael Baker who despite receiving conflicting advice from several different Queensland Government staff, has just resulted in a Queensland landowner being forced to pay $999,780 in fines and costs. Michael Vincent Baker of Chess Park, Eidsvold, was found guilty in the Brisbane Magistrate Court of the unauthorised clearing. Mr Baker representative solicitor Mr Marland said “that before Mr Baker commenced the clearing in question, he contacted 32 different Government employees seeking advice on the acceptable width of fire breaks. He said he received conflicting advice ranging from 1.5 metres wide to “1.5 times the height of the tallest tree”. Department of Natural Resources and Mines Director-General James Purtill said “The fine handed down reflects the significant extent of the illegal clearing and Mr Baker’s deliberate actions despite direct warnings given to him by the department,” Mr Purtill said. “Queensland strikes a balance between enabling landowners to get on with managing their businesses by sensibly clearing appropriate vegetation, and protecting our environment.” I believe that Mr James Purtill should be taken and wired to a tree before an oncoming bushfire with a 1.5 metre firebreak in front of him, before he can judge Mr Baker or anyone else’s firebreak distance, especially as this was on Mr Baker’s property. All of the Greens Party, all of the green bureaucrats that sit and pontificate in government departments, all of the Green teachers in our schools and universities, all of our politicians who seek the Green votes all should be taken with Mr Purtill and wired to trees. Let them feel the super heated air burning the hairs in their noses and the back of their throats when its still 30 metres away. Of course when it gets closer it sucks out the air from their lungs the oxygen burns brightly and fry’s them in their own body fat. Let them really know how it feels to die, by the hands of government Green legislation in the same way that they have imposed it on innocent people who have died in the last few weeks and those that are still to die before this Green legislation has been rectified. The ABC and SBS are missing-in-action when it comes to standing up for the farmers who are forced to pay tax to keep the billion dollar big-government propaganda-machine running." -------------------------------------------- Building the Evo3 rallycar with Josh today, he tells me the 4WD clubs used to use the forests and Parks, they'd go through and clear all the tracks and firebreaks so the Firies could get through... then they were locked out. All the tracks have overgrown and just been waiting for a fire.

Yeah, this sort of thing.. pretty common with K motor. Make sure the bolts and nuts can do up further than the manifold thickness and aren't binding on dirt and rust. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/27374-one-piece-manifold-gasket-who-makes-them-4k/ Still might be a tappet, the rocker face wears into a U-shape where it rubs on the top of the valve, and the feeler gauge goes across the U instead of measuring where the valve touches. Solved by setting tappets with a big circular protractor on the crank, like setting up a hot cam. You should feel when the rocker touches as the pushrod won't be able to be turned with your fingers. Its not really likely though, K motors don't suffer from that as much as other motors do. I've had to find a bit of wire of the right thickness in the past, something like a bread tie I measured with calipers. That sat in the groove of the rocker and gave me the gap needed. I suppose another way would be to close the tappets down to zero gap then back them off the same number of turns of the screw. Can you feel if one gap is bigger than the others when you rock it with max gap?

That's all it takes, some tiny thing to cause an air leak. It must have slipped in through the filter somehow, easy to happen when your doing other things to an engine.

Electric fans are great! The lack of noise is very noticeable. We always just use one, never a problem, although all the cars have the new alloy radiators in. The rockers tighten up as the valves settle in, and the manifold bolts often need a little wind-up after running for a bit. All sounds good!

Sure, they should all be interchangeable. Is the 5K due a rebore and a rebuild? Its a much bigger job than just doing the head! Don't rush to buy pistons until you've measured the volume of the 3K combustion chamber, you'll need to decide the best way to get the compression ratio you want. Without touching the block you could use the drop in compression from the 5K pistons & the 3K head and turbo it! Also a much bigger job than just doing the head!

The 5K head will have a very flat combustion chamber if it has D-dish pistons. The 3K is 1166cc, the 5K is 1486, so its 27% bigger in capacity. The 3K runs about 29cc in the combustion chamber, the 5K's D-dish piston holds 22cc and about 12cc in the head, so you might go from a combustion chamber of about 34cc to one of 29+22=51cc. You gain some from having a bigger cylinder in the 5K block, but I'd say using the 3K head and the D-dish piston will drop the compression markedly. If you're not using the 3K motor, pull the head off and measure everything yourself, its the only way to know.

Got photos? There are several 5K heads depending on the type of piston. Do you think the combustion chambers are bigger on the 5K or the 3K?? You might have to measure them for volume with a burette. Actually, the first thing would be to check if they are both straight and free of cracks!

Well, true, two lighter springs are the answer, but the weight with no spring doesn't affect the timing as it moves. The rotation of the points plate is controlled by the weight with a spring, its just that the one spring has to work twice as hard. I ran mine with one spring to see what would happen and didn't feel any bounce in the timing, maybe because the loose weight sits against the stop all the time the motor is running as there is no spring at all to hold it back off the stop. The one weight with a spring will get pulled back off the stop when the revs are low enough. Anyway, fun thing to play with and it made a big difference in performance.

" 10ish to 15 more advance with centri " It should be 8deg at idle and somewhere just over 35deg at 3000rpm, so the weights add 25deg of advance. The vac takes it off when you boot it, then it advances again as you lift off. The vac can't add any advance ahead of the weights. The springs in the dizzy are much too strong. Try taking one out & running it with one spring, see the difference.

I doubt replacing the chain will solve anything, unless you can hear it rattling at idle. There are plenty where the chain is so slack it hits the timing chain cover at idle but they still run OK. Have you got a timing light you can measure the advance at idle and all the way up?? I painted extra marks all the way out to 40deg with white paint and graphed the timing each 500rpm to get a curve. I know the motors will stand a lot of advance, but backfiring is the limit. The 5K dizzy I bought had an abysmal timing curve set up for a forklift, so I ended up changing the springs to get a wider curve. That's all covered here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/?tab=comments#comment-511594 I think you'll find that is your problem, you just can't get a big enough range in timing with your dizzy.

Right- The ballast runs the 9V coil while the motor is running. It gets by-passed when the motor is cranking so the coil overcomes the voltage drop from the starter pulling a few hundred amps. The wiring sends the ignition power from the key to the ballast resistor and then to the coil +ve. If you have the ignition on and the points closed the resistor will get hot as the current flows through it. There is another coil +ve wire from the cranking part of the ignition barrel, that only activates when you are actually cranking the engine over. Make sure those wires are hooked up correctly. Then make sure the points have the right gap. Then make sure you have 12V at the points with them open and the ignition on. If you short across the open points with a screwdriver it should spark and the coil should fire. If you have all that, put a lead onto a spare spark plug and see if it gets a spark when its just sitting on the motor & you're cranking it.

Start with this- https://www.dropbox....adfile.jpg?dl=0 and see if the black solenoid activator wire gets 12V at the starter when you turn the key to start. Check ALL the circuits, just to see what isn't working and if it shares a fuse. Depending on the country some KE70 had relays in the starter circuit, some didn't. Another one to watch is people converting auto to manual, there will be a starter cutout wire by the gear lever that must be hooked up. When you have checked all the circuits, find out which one melted the fusebox and stop it from happening again. You should never replace a fuse without finding out what blew it. The fact it has a push button sounds dodgy, you're relying on someone else's wiring to be good, so check all that carefully.

What lights are you after? Different ones to them? I think ours are the same as those. The Philipines sell the quad light conversions. Does it have the T motor?? South Africa got much better cars than Aussie did.

" That's the 'before' photo haha, no I got all new bolts remember. " That's good, I thought it would be.. " something sticking in the secondary " Good idea!

Start a new topic... He came here in 2012 and made that one post, so I don't think he'll see your question.

Is this photo before the head job or after? I hope its before because that bolt is not good! Anyway, it sounds like a leaking gasket or hose or carb part. I thought the solenoid was either open or closed so it shouldn't affect idle speed, just whether it idles at all or not. I've never had to work on one. Certainly because it doesn't happen all the time it suggests something involved with the warmup procedure or some hole that expands as it warms up. How and when does it go back to normal idle?

Excellent! well done! ..but don't stop there... http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/2016-toyota-hiace-king-vans/

" I am looking into budget engine swap options. " Hmmmm.... Finland... Volvo turbo! No wait, those amazing BMW M-series that rev forever!

Nice to see a successful conversion with the bugs ironed out! My 4AGE still dies at idle or speeds up, one day I'll sort it out! That's a tall motor alright, a difficult one to fit.