altezzaclub

Start a new topic... He came here in 2012 and made that one post, so I don't think he'll see your question.

Is this photo before the head job or after? I hope its before because that bolt is not good! Anyway, it sounds like a leaking gasket or hose or carb part. I thought the solenoid was either open or closed so it shouldn't affect idle speed, just whether it idles at all or not. I've never had to work on one. Certainly because it doesn't happen all the time it suggests something involved with the warmup procedure or some hole that expands as it warms up. How and when does it go back to normal idle?

Excellent! well done! ..but don't stop there... http://www.superstreetonline.com/features/2016-toyota-hiace-king-vans/

" I am looking into budget engine swap options. " Hmmmm.... Finland... Volvo turbo! No wait, those amazing BMW M-series that rev forever!

Nice to see a successful conversion with the bugs ironed out! My 4AGE still dies at idle or speeds up, one day I'll sort it out! That's a tall motor alright, a difficult one to fit.

Yeah, that looks fine to me. You should be driving it around for Christmas! They look like flat-top pistons, the dish in a typical 5K is deeper- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/73806-5k-head-identification/page/2/ That's why you have an inserted combustion chamber, as those dished pistons are the combustion chamber and the head for them is basically flat.

So the pushrods should be 3mm too short, which is fine if you can take that up with the adjusting bolts. Do some research on the arc the rockers must swing through and check that they don't run onto the edge of the valve at full open. I can't find a picture on the net to demonstrate it, and its hard to draw. Try this- What clearances do they list?

New one- http://www.crosstools.com.au/time-sert-thread-repair---helicoil-alternative.html or under $20... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Metric-Thread-Repair-Insert-Kit-M5-M6-M7-M8-M10-M12-Helicoil-Car-Pro-Coil-Tool/254328187384?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D8164d4f8c4d5470899821c6b83e2a67a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D323996087965%26itm%3D254328187384%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 My old Armstrong Siddeley had hydraulic tappets with adjusters, you squeezed all the oil out by levering down with a big screwdriver, set them to 75thou and then left them forever.. Not a clue what Toyota do though..

Love it!! Of course, a vac sucks better than a 12V compressor can blow, its all about volume more than pressure. Next time!

" not only were most of the passages at the block stopped up with dirt and scale, " Sound like the block should definitely come out and be cleaned out.. it will be just as bad inside there as in the head & it will kill water flow. Also, check your new head gasket, some of those holes do not go through at the front to force circulation to the back, so they would be blocked at factory. " I have been re-tapping all the critical holes as I go. " Great idea!

With the cage back in the dash could be re-fitted, and I started on the Terratrip wiring again. This was all fine and we had bench-tested the new probes 6months back, but it wouldn't count! Turns out the probes are directional in wiring, a +ve and -ve so to speak, and I had, by luck, got both of them round the wrong way! That's all tidied up and working now, but before then we thought we'd try the Terratrip unit in Mao, where it had been used before we fitted a new connector on it. Of course modern connectors are for very small wires.. so we might have to go over Mao's wiring again.. Now, some people believe that you can tie a nail onto a piece of string and drop it down a length of poly hose, then pull an electric fence wire through, so you can lay it on the ground between fences at gates... When this didn't work we did try blasting it through with the 12V air compressor & a tissue. It worked 'in the lab' for 2M, but when we were out with a 70M length of poly and straight in with the fence wire it didn't work at all! Damm, another great idea down the drain! So, time to head home.. Now, what could this road "worker" be doing?? He used to hold a lollipop and turn it around as soon as the opposing traffic had come through the road works... Now he sits here watching the cars as the new traffic lights hold us up for AGES after the opposing cars have gone, as they're on a timer! A lot of people need to be fired if Australia is ever going to get more efficient!! This fascination with OSHA and safety could handle a big wind-back too!

We pulled the cage out and welded in the extra couple of bars. Josh lent us his bender so we could raise the bar above Steve's head. That worked OK and it was ready to go back in- Its all in now and done up- but not without excitement as we have a hole in the bottom of the sill at each foot for one bolt, and we lost a socket up in there.. it soon rolled down to the next hole- We had a slow leak in the SamQ unit on the back of the head and finally took it off. The seam in the O-ring was weeping, and Sam said he's had a couple so changed O-rings. He sent a new styled one out straight away at no charge. We needed roof vents and as the Celica had crushed the old antique Valvoline can we used, I grabbed the nearest tins to replicate it. All this was while New England was still on fire, Steve would rush off now & then to fight fires..

Back up again for the last trip of the year- Plenty of distractions.. Steve picked up some car or other and the trailer was swaying, it only needs a full tank of gas or luggage in the boot to make it tail-heavy. We figured we'd move the spare wheel from the back where it was on the tipping up part, to the front and put it on the non-tipping part. The problem with this was the lack of weight at the back overall meant when the KE70 front wheels got 1/2way up the ramps they tipped the frame down and it rose up at the back & hit the sills in front of the rear wheels. As it turned out, with the spare moved forward the tipping problem seemed no worse, but the stability should be better. It hasn't carried anything yet, so its all unproven! Jimbo presented another distraction, the door handle packed up completely. The door came off & I welded a couple of little extensions on inside that made it work, but the winder was shagged as well so Steve ordered a new one. Amazingly they are still available and not expensive. I looked at making a KE70 one fit, but they are quite different! Steve's GF came down in the teal Corona Wagon with a leaking rad. Kickn5k talked about them failing here- and this is the first one we've had go. I've got one in the The Girls KE70, Mao's old one went into the rally car and a new one went into Mao, and Steve's Landcruiser has one, so there are 5 running around here. It was leaking from the top tank just in from the outer edges- and it looks like the core isn't sealed to the top tank. Hopefully that's the only dud. He just bought a new one and we fitted it. We finished mao's exhaust, a flexible joint at the extractors- and solid mounting all the way back. There's a strip of inner tube between the pieces of old KE70 jack we cut up as mounts, anything so it doesn't drum through the car. Then we did the same on the rally car- The old system from the Celica was made to fit, jammed up hard on the body. I put a very front mount on to take weight off the flexible joint and let that be flexible. The rest is like mao's except the rear had the fuel system right by it... which was solved with a bit of asbestos sheet lying around We didn't set fire to anything and its all in place! A win!

Well, the new sender unit just doesn't want to show how much fuel is in the tank! The red light came on just North of Wellington yesterday on the way home- It was still a long way above 'empty' with the red light on, but I added 12L just in case... and when I filled it today it goes up this far- So they're no good! At least I've got the red light, maybe I'll add that to the old stock sender unit. It did 686km running around between the farms and then driving 550km back, all at 6.9L/100km. you can't beat that in an old Corolla having fun..

66NM for head bolts. The manifold bolts are 30NM and the rocker pedestals 24. Make sure the bolt holes in the block are really clean all the way to the bottom, same with the head for the manifold bolts. I took about 3mm off the head around the ports to match the gasket, I think most stock ports are small. I could send you this gasket if you need one in the future, they're about $10 so mailing will cost more than the gasket I expect! Are you going to tip the block over and get all the rust scale out of it?? It really collects around the back of the block and stops it cooling very well, especially if no-one uses coolant in the 'Pines. I just scraped it out with a bit of wire and a screwdriver. I've done a couple of blocks now.

Got any error codes showing? Can you check the injectors output into a measuring cylinder over 15seconds & see if its 50cc or over? Is it running an oxy sensor?? The ECU should alter the mixture according to the sensor's voltage. Is there an intake leak via a hose or somewhere, something outside the ECU's ability to compensate for? All you can do is go over it again and see if there's something you missed. Maybe something tucked away under the intake manifold. Can you beg, borrow or steal a mixture display, wideband or narrowband, just to check what the oxy sensor is sending. Even a multimeter might do it, the oxy sensor produces 0.5volts at ideal mixture & you could tap into it's wire to read it. Maybe take it to a garage who has one to get a reading at cruise. Chase down Parrot's 4AGE diagnostic manual and use a copy of that. If you can't d'load it I can email you a copy, its only 6meg compared to the full 4AGE manual at 90meg. A lot will be common between the engines. I think if you can make sure the mixture is correct you will solve the pinging at the same time.

Well, the usual ones are getting power to the solenoid and then the starter motor, and then earthing it back. Seems you have that sorted. Then there's the contacts inside the solenoid that burn away until they can't provide enough power to the starter even though the solenoid clicks into place. Then there's the windings in the starter, which your new motor should have sorted. ..and that leaves the teeth on the flywheel that get hammered out of shape as the engine always stops in the same relative position so only a few flywheel teeth every get smacked. So, was it a new new starter and solenoid you fitted, or just another used one? Can you remove the starter and somehow view the teeth it will crash into each time on the flywheel?

Swap the mains between them and see what difference it makes. It sounds like its running lean. Might pay to check the choke operation too, it should open the throttle as well as closing the flap in the throat, and often you can adjust those separately. Make it open more throttle as it closes the flap. A 32/36 is bigger than a stock 4K can handle easily, but if you've got it you might as well use it.

Well.. The ECU I don't know what power it can deliver, someone else will have done it though. The T50 will get you running and be OK if you're not hard on it. What options are there? A W box or a J160, both harder to fit. What happened to the previous owner's cross-member he used with the 4AGE??If you can't get it just make engine mounts. In Aussie the exhaust usually runs down the Euro driver's side, the yellow path right to the rear. You might have steering in the way as you drive on the wrong side! Don't worry about the width of the diff, you can easily flare the guards over the tyres if you need to. I'd check out newer van diffs at your wreckers, they carry more weight than car diffs, so stronger, but not as heavy as big ute diffs like Hilux. You'll have to modify the mounts and driveshaft anyway, so it doesn't have to be a Toyota at all. Leaf springs if you have to, but fit a couple of traction bars at least. Just investigate what is needed for floor pan cutting to fit a 5-link, maybe its not too hard. With the high fuel tank you can easily fit a low-pressure pump to fill a surge tank and then feed the high pressure pump. Make a tall surge tank in the boot or the engine bay, it just depends where there is room. The filter and high-pressure pump can go in the engine bay. Superchargers, I don't know.. Someone can help I'm sure. Having three coolers in a row is a worry, it just heats two of them up to the third. Can you put two beside one another?? Overall, I'd aim for getting it driving as easily as possible, then modify it as things break. You don't want it hanging around in the shed for 5years while you find all the best parts and make them fit together...

That is a full colour HD KE70 wiring diagram!! They only came in black and white, and the each letter is 3mm high on my screen, so you won't do better than that. The other one I use is this one- It should be 656kB unless it got re-sized as it loaded.

Fair enough- check this topic & see what you think. Budget & planning are all !! I don't know enough about those old leaf-spring buggies to be much help, but the principles for a successful project are always the same.

Are you asking about the right-hand 14pin plug shown here??

"If we made a huge jump in climate action (whatever that means..what does it mean?), what is the worst that can happen? " Well.. The obvious one is that we might spend hundreds of billions of taxpayer money investing in stuff that has no return. That may give us an unworkable electricity grid with power so variable we have daily blackouts for a few hours here and there, like most of Africa. Of course the taxpayers don't have hundreds of billions, so the Govt will borrow it & expect the next generation to pay it back, which means the next block of Govts will just inflate the shit out of money until the debt is worthless. Its really about heading down a dead-end road. Comparable to spending Australia's energy budget just mining Bitcoin, then having everyone rush off and use something else. There is a lot of ways to throw money away, and Govts know them all. Of course we may still be whining about global warming and pouring money in when the next ice-age hits and you'll never find a politician or "influencer" who would own up to their stupidity! I'd be quite happy is there were no regulations forcing people to use renewables, and no subsidies. That way we will get new ideas that are actually economic. But instead some brainless shit on Council in Orange calling for Council to "create a market for recycling"!! That's is the epitome of throwing ratepayer's money away! We should have all that stuff running on private investment, so when enough people believe in it they will adopt it. Maybe we should be adopting one of the many newer forms of nuclear energy. Maybe we should just burn coal or gas and grab the particulates & sulphur from the exhaust, but while its politics and not economics, we can't discover the real price of energy. As for the IPCC, NONE of their predictions in the last 20 years has come true, so they just don't count!

Well, here we are in the annual fire season, and because its a drought its worse than usual. Of course all the media and Socialists (and crony Capitalists looking for Govt handouts in wind & solar!) are screaming "its global warming doing it!" No-one seems to be looking anywhere else. For example- This arrangement of the planets happens less than once in 300years. 300years ago is before the "history" they mean when they say "worst fires in history"... The sun has run of of sunspots.. It happens in 11-year cycles that grow each cycle to a maximum, then decrease each cycle to a minimum, but NOT as minimum as currently. We've been counting sunspots since the 1600s, so those who learn about them have noted how the climate is affected. The IPCC is NOT included amongst those! The sun's magnetic field usually flips every second cycle, we don't know how this will affect electronics, but our own magnetic North pole is moving towards Russia. (Of COURSE the Russians are doing it!) Others are saying the Earth is overdue for a magnetic pole flip, as has happened many times before. Even within the drought the weather has a greater chance of rain than at others. I'm a great believer in Kevin Long here in Aussie, as I was in NZ with Ken Ring. Ken reckons our forefathers used astronomy to predict the climate for generations, but when Britain was expanding their empire around the world they need weather forecasts for their ships. The invention of the barometer solved that, but is only over a week at the most, and its popularity resulted in it excluding the old methods for all Western Govts. The moon is the biggest impactor on weather. I LOVE the BOM's phantom rain, it appears a week away and gets less & less as we approach it. As people say, if they can't predict the weather a week away, how can they say what's going to happen in 50years? I say, I'll believe in their global warming crap science when they can explain how water divining works! I've seen it happen, I believe completely in it, yet no scientist can explain it... so, what else don't they know? How good are their models when they can't even explain something that has been around for tens of thousands of years? Meanwhile, we're all going to get screwed by completely ignorant politicians who are captured by big business and grandstanding to their peers, they're all trying to outdo each other as they pander to the 'woke'. It will all end badly...