altezzaclub

I bought a Gregorys years ago, but it didn't have wiring in for anything except lights, so I started on Google... Since then I've vacuumed up all sorts of data from the web and just use that. Grab any manual you can for basic stuff, then ask questions here! (you'll love the manual over the auto, so much quicker!)

You can buy a new Mig welder for that money, so everyone does. Makes it difficult to compare..

Well, there's a big difference between what you own and what you are looking at buying, and that is RWD compared to FWD. They take quite different driving styles to get the maximum, and some people are suited to one, some the other. FWD have an inbuilt stability that comes from the driving wheels pulling the car along behind them, so the rear wheels follow the front more easily. The tradeoff is the constant understeer and wicked oversteer if the tail does lose grip. Watch the European 2L saloon championships on Youtube and see how many people can catch a FWD when the tail slides, almost none of them. They are faster for the power as they lose less in the drivetrain. RWD have the rear pushing the front straight ahead, so any turning lets the rear step out into oversteer. The advantage is far better turn-in at a corner, and if the tail steps out you can steer it with the throttle. So for me there is no question, a RWD. I'd go for a KE70, cheaper than a Celica yet has the same motor and suspension. The suspension becomes the important part if you're going track racing. An MX5 will have all the tech developed to be a race car, they've been popular since they were new, and if you're not fussy about car make then that would be the best bet. If you want a FWD, find a 20valve for the car you have, I think its the same shell isn't it. If you like racing it then keep your eyes open for the one with the fancy rear suspension. No matter what you decide on, go do dirt gymkhanas in it to sort out the drifting feel, or wet tarmac ones. You don't want to start learning at full speed in a new car! --------------------- Check out mark blundell at 1.46min in here- This is a great series for pitting FWD against 4WD against RWD from the different manufacturers, and there's no doubt FWD lightness and power does well.

Are the weights set up for a car in those dizzys? It would be a better buy than those made for fork hoists or whatever they were! Yeah, I'm hearing stories from him about having to wear a mask every day. Good thing he didn't buy a house in central Melb... Good luck you guys down there-

Love it! Especially the water tank! Shame about the dog dying...

The red dots are where I blocked the hoses off, leaving only the vacuum advance on the dizzy and the charcoal canister. I haven't got a 4K anymore, but take a look and see if that diaphram hooks into the throttle stop. It might be just to slow the throttle closing down so it doesn't snap shut. That's for emissions control, like injected motors these days lose revs slowly. Seeing I blocked it off and the car ran fine, its not crucial, although that was a lot of years ago to remember. Ah- the HIC is a hot idle compensator, so it holds the throttle open in some situations and lets it close right down in others. The 'jet' is often a vacuum delay, so no vac is allowed through until its stronger than a spring. OK, here its called a Throttle Positioner, and seeing its marked late model it shouldn't be on a 3K

They will lower fuel consumption, which I watch pretty carefully. Sadly the half a L/100Km it will save you is never enough to justify the very noticeable extra cost, so I settle for United's 95octane. Like you, I can't feel the difference, but those long 500Km runs over the same roads to the farm give me pretty sharp figures.

OMG! Time flies! I've made one trip up to the farm in the KE70, and one in the Altezza. Then back home since Easter or so. With 4 cars and three drivers the KE70 stays in the garage with the Altezza in the driveway in front of it, so I drive the Altezza. Naturally, when I go to drive the Corolla.. the battery is flat! Charge it up and take it downtown, and it suddenly cuts out and dies! The guy behind at the lights helps push it off the road, and of course it fires up without me doing anything. Drive for another Km and it dies again! Wait a minute and it fires up! I figure fuel starvation as there are no error codes and so I have re-fit the mixture display, which shows it leaning out as it dies. I look inside the tank in case the lift pump has dropped off again, but its fine. I take the fuel rail return line off an run it through the car with some clear hose. It never empties. I start thinking the main pump may be dying from a bad relay in the COR setup, so put a wire from the battery direct to the pump, tucked away under the air filter... and that's when I find one of the wires on the pump is not firmly on the terminal at all! I assume it was moving off under some acceleration or other, the motor dies and it falls back into place! Having put it on firmly and seeing it do two days of running around, I hope that was the problem and the fix. I've sold the Altezza and its one car each now!

How's it going?? Done any more??

Lovely! I've just returned from the Botanic Gardens chasing my cuttings forcing cabinet as one probe seems to give ridiculous readings. I measured the resistances and voltages produced and found the dud one to be out. It was showing 39deg in the gravel on the bottom of the cabinet while it was cold and wet. So I check Rollaclub over lunch & what do i find? Here's Banjo with the readings and temperatures of the two-wire thermistor thingy I have in my hand! Well done that man! So the dud probe reads 0.3 to 0.2mV and 5.9Kohm, shows 40.4deg The probe I put right next to it reads 0.1 to 0.0mV and 10.2Kohm, shows 24.6deg The top probe reads 0.1mV and 8.2Kohm, showing 29.7deg I'll find out what it is I need to buy and replace that one. How do they go wrong Banjo? Mechanical flex changing wire resistance? Anyway, now you've solved my problem... back to the electronic K motor!

OK, generate a timing curve with a timing light & tacho, and see if the electronic dizzy has been re-curved to suit a car & not a forkhoist. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/ That make a the biggest difference to performance once I'd fitted the electronic dizzy, maybe yours has been done already. The mixture display works well as you can watch it under all sorts of driving conditions, although once the jets are set up you don't touch them again. Here's the Weber jet suggestion list-

Nice job! That looks really smart! What exhaust do you have on it? Stock manifold? You could measure the cam specs yourself with a protractor on the crank. That would give you opening and closing, and hence degrees. A dial gauge on a rocker at the same time would give you lift. Fiddly, but not hard. Power range comes from where the inlet closes, that's why people use adjustable cam drives with hot cams. If you want to do it I'll give you details, but you'll need big protractor and preferably a dial gauge. Pop the base plate out of the distributor and make sure its clean and greased underneath so the weights can work smoothly. Are you using stock points or electronic?? If they're stock make sure the gap is correct and there is no volcano on one face giving a false reading. If you replace the points always replace the condenser. Set to 10deg at idle with a timing light, no vac advance. Check it advances out to 35deg or thereabouts when you rev it. K motors will take more advance than 10deg, it really depends on your carbs, your fuel and your altitude. First do a plug cut by pulling a good full-power run in 3rd one day, whip your foot off the accelerator & kill the ignition at the same time. Take out the plugs on the side of the road and check for colour. Really white will be lean, any soot on the center will be rich. There are jet suggestions on the web, I'll look some up later. The best is a mixture display running off an oxy sensor in the exhaust, or a dyno tune. That's a start....

Ah, OK, so you have a blank slate for engines. Still cheapest is a 4K, and anything else depends on the balance of how good the motor is, how hard it is to fit & how big your budget is. You could just buy a 4K until you're off your P's, although even that will need a stack of other bits like clutch cable setups, throttle cables, choke cables, exhaust system, driveshaft, and other bits you might not have been sold. You'll need someone wrecking a KE70, or a good local wrecking yard. Buy another KE70 to run around in for a couple of years!

Its quite possible, but a pain. The crank comes down a long way so the sump doesn't drop clear of the crossmember. Undo the engine mounts and jack the motor up on one side, I think I used the exhaust manifold to jack on. The studs Banjo is talking about are the 4 under the cam chain cover on the front. If you do the job replace those with bolts. I took the sump right off as I recall, cleaned it all up and glued the new gasket in place as its easy to muck up sealing the back of it under the car.

SamQ has a list- https://www.sq-engineering.com/tech-articles/toyota-a-series-flywheels/ Mine is on the left, stock bigport, yours on the right, 4AGZE. ...and.. "yeh only 4agze flywheels have the pedestals. all the n/a flywheels are flat. " https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57585-flywheel-help-toyota/

Ask the Dept Transport or whoever it is now, and even then you might get an opinion rather than a law. Any answers on here are just opinions and wouldn't constitute legal advice. You would get away with a 5K, but for what improvement it is you might as well just fit a good 4K. You could try the 5K pistons into a 4K block if you have a ratty 4K that needs a rebuild, but really no K motor is worth spending thousands of dollars on. A 4AGE KE70 is a great combo, ask them about that as it was in the AE86 and that would weigh the same, and I'm sure you'd be allowed a FWD Corolla with a 4AGE on your Ps. However the 4AGE means another whole crossmember-engine-gearbox-driveshaft change and that won't be cheap. I expect that putting a 4AGE in will cost you more than the car. Even the engineering can cost thousands of dollars and they can ask you to do some stupid things to the rest of the car. Actually, what brakes are on it, and was it road legal with certificates when you bought it? Sure as hell that CA18 won't be good for it. What diff did he fit??

Wooo! That's a lot of work! How far into the manifold ports did you fill?

" The horn circuit should be alive, in most cars, even when the ignition is off. " Yep, this bit. The white wire should be live all the time, carrying power to the horn. The green wire will be live also if the horn is OK. Its the steering wheel button that earths it out and makes the horn work.

There should be two horns, one on each side. There should be more bolts holding on the stone tray than what you have there too! It looks a mess, all you can do is sit down and work out what the last guy did. The indicators on the slanty KE70 are in the sidelight, in the flatfront they are in the guards. Both have them in the bumpers. From the diagram, most 'green and something' wires are indicators, the horns being white and then green/black. If you can find a white wire, check for permanent 12V. If you can find a permanent 12V wire there, (no ignition on) then that's a start. The return wire to the horn will have to be green /black.

Yes, from the hazard fuse to the horns, they're in parallel and likely to have dirty, poor connections, then back to the steering wheel and earths out via the ring behind the steering wheel. That's another place to get poor contact. If the hazard lights work I'd check the wiring for 12V at the horns, and if it still doesn't work then pop the steering wheel apart and see if 12V is arriving back there. The contact pin that is pushed against the ring for turning the steering wheel obviously wears away.

Tor! You're the man! That explains it all !

"Be warned that part number is for a KE70/AE71/TE72 or Tercel. Will it fit a KE20? I have no idea. " I would say KE70/AE71 don't fit any other KE, they have a strange assymetrical hole pattern in the 3 studs at the top. Measure the distances between the 3 holes and see if they are the same, older Toyotas tend to be, but KE70s aren't. They're 111mm, 106 & 116 to the outside of the studs in each case.

Are those wires yellow/black, yellow/blue & yellow/green?? Are you sure they are alternator wires? From the KE70 wiring diagram they are , yellow/black oil pressure sender yellow/blue fuel warning light yellow/green water temperature sender. Alty wires with external reg are- Red, alty F to ext reg F Blue, alty N to ext reg N White, Alty B to reg B and off to fusebox White/black, alty E to earth point. The KE70 may be different, but Toyota were loath to change things. The power to the battery, white, will be a much thicker wire.

Those K gearboxes will all die later, there are no bearings available for them. So a quick & easy conversion would be any bigger K motor like a 5K, with a K40 or K50 until you run out of gearboxes. The 4AGE carries a T50 gearbox, there's more of those around, and the last RWD performance version would be a 3SGE with its Asian J160 6-speed. How's your general car mechanics & welding/fabrication? The 4AGE conversion isn't that bad, although I'm talking KE70 rather than the older cars I haven't done it on. The 3SGE has been done, but its a tall motor and I don't know how the cross-member works with it. Same with the 2AZ motors, look at littleredspirits great work on his AE86. If the motor in yours is a bit worn, drill it out to 5k and use it while you plan something bigger for later on. Its not worth spending a lot on as the power gains aren't that great, but even carbs/cam/exhaust helps.

Woolshed rallying has fitted 5 or more of the Ebay all-alloy ones to various cars, and after a few years one has leaked where the core is welded to the tanks. I was worried about putting more weight in the nose so I weighed stock and alloy rads, the alloy is half the weight of the copper, and measured what they held. The alloy holds twice the water so the weight ends up the same. I ran the 4AGE on a stock 4K radiator & electric fan without problems, but it was on the limit of what it could cool really. It didn't heat up much over half, but took longer to cool down, so in the end I went alloy.