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"Jet advice for weber 32/36, anyone have one or know a bit about them? " A common question, with no known answer that I've seen. Most of them came of Ford Cortinas or Pinto, so a bit bigger, and most people run them as they are after asking exactly the same question. Here's the search you should have done... https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/75797-weber-3236-4k-jetting/?tab=comments#comment-720870 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/52246-2836-dcd-weber-carburettor/?tab=comments#comment-532530 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72740-too-much-white-smoke-after-installing-a-new-weber-3236-on-a-4k/?tab=comments#comment-704833 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/70427-rejetting-aiisin-vs-weber/?tab=comments#comment-688504 https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/72230-weber-3236-into-5k/?tab=comments#comment-701318 A 28/36 would be better I'd expect. Just remember that Webers don't alter the mixture with the idle screw, only the flow. For the extractors, a common trick is to measure the thickness of the inlet & exhaust flanges, cut a washer of the right thickness in half & glue a half onto another set of washers. When you fit the manifolds the half-washers take up the difference in flange thickness. Another even easier one, is to get a length of wire the right thickness and put bit behind the washers as needed. When you've done it all and its too slow, look around for some bike carbs, a quad set off a Gixxer.... I always regret not getting around to fitting a set just to see how fast it was.

OK, that's definitely better. Without going and looking this up, something I haven't had to think about for years, the vacs work like this- Manifold vac givers maximum advance at idle, that's fine because the engine gets very little air in to burn and it does struggle. The moment you press the accelerator the inlet vac falls off, the advance goes backwards to whatever you set it to for idle and the car drives away. As you accelerate the weights in the dizzy give you more advance and fire the rich mixture just before it pings. When you're up to speed and throttle back, inlet vacuum climbs a bit, so vac advance comes on and advances the ignition to minimise pollution while you have, once again, a small amount of air to burn. About 10cc of air goes into a cylinder at 100kph and about 0.7cc of fuel. Ported vac depends on the flow of air past the port, so at low revs it gives no advance, and slowly adds advance as you go faster. What that gives you is an advance control linked to how much throttle you have open, rather than just the rpm that gives weight advance. Generally cars used one or the other I think, the twin vac dizzys were only introduced in the dying days before ECU. Ah- here ya go... TIMING AND VACUUM ADVANCE 101 The most important concept to understand is that lean mixtures, such as at idle and steady highway cruise, take longer to burn than rich mixtures; idle in particular, as idle mixture is affected by exhaust gas dilution. This requires that lean mixtures have "the fire lit" earlier in the compression cycle (spark timing advanced), allowing more burn time so that peak cylinder pressure is reached just after TDC for peak efficiency and reduced exhaust gas temperature (wasted combustion energy). Rich mixtures, on the other hand, burn faster than lean mixtures, so they need to have "the fire lit" later in the compression cycle (spark timing retarded slightly) so maximum cylinder pressure is still achieved at the same point after TDC as with the lean mixture, for maximum efficiency. The centrifugal advance system in a distributor advances spark timing purely as a function of engine rpm (irrespective of engine load or operating conditions), with the amount of advance and the rate at which it comes in determined by the weights and springs on top of the autocam mechanism. The amount of advance added by the distributor, combined with initial static timing, is "total timing" (i.e., the 34-36 degrees at high rpm that most SBC's like). Vacuum advance has absolutely nothing to do with total timing or performance, as when the throttle is opened, manifold vacuum drops essentially to zero, and the vacuum advance drops out entirely; it has no part in the "total timing" equation. At idle, the engine needs additional spark advance in order to fire that lean, diluted mixture earlier in order to develop maximum cylinder pressure at the proper point, so the vacuum advance can (connected to manifold vacuum, not "ported" vacuum - more on that aberration later) is activated by the high manifold vacuum, and adds about 15 degrees of spark advance, on top of the initial static timing setting (i.e., if your static timing is at 10 degrees, at idle it's actually around 25 degrees with the vacuum advance connected). The same thing occurs at steady-state highway cruise; the mixture is lean, takes longer to burn, the load on the engine is low, the manifold vacuum is high, so the vacuum advance is again deployed, and if you had a timing light set up so you could see the balancer as you were going down the highway, you'd see about 50 degrees advance (10 degrees initial, 20-25 degrees from the centrifugal advance, and 15 degrees from the vacuum advance) at steady-state cruise (it only takes about 40 horsepower to cruise at 50mph). When you accelerate, the mixture is instantly enriched (by the accelerator pump, power valve, etc.), burns faster, doesn't need the additional spark advance, and when the throttle plates open, manifold vacuum drops, and the vacuum advance can returns to zero, retarding the spark timing back to what is provided by the initial static timing plus the centrifugal advance provided by the distributor at that engine rpm; the vacuum advance doesn't come back into play until you back off the gas and manifold vacuum increases again as you return to steady-state cruise, when the mixture again becomes lean. The key difference is that centrifugal advance (in the distributor autocam via weights and springs) is purely rpm-sensitive; nothing changes it except changes in rpm. Vacuum advance, on the other hand, responds to engine load and rapidly-changing operating conditions, providing the correct degree of spark advance at any point in time based on engine load, to deal with both lean and rich mixture conditions. By today's terms, this was a relatively crude mechanical system, but it did a good job of optimizing engine efficiency, throttle response, fuel economy, and idle cooling, with absolutely ZERO effect on wide-open throttle performance, as vacuum advance is inoperative under wide-open throttle conditions. In modern cars with computerized engine controllers, all those sensors and the controller change both mixture and spark timing 50 to 100 times per second, and we don't even HAVE a distributor any more - it's all electronic. Now, to the widely-misunderstood manifold-vs.-ported vacuum aberration. After 30-40 years of controlling vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum, along came emissions requirements, years before catalytic converter technology had been developed, and all manner of crude band-aid systems were developed to try and reduce hydrocarbons and oxides of nitrogen in the exhaust stream. One of these band-aids was "ported spark", which moved the vacuum pickup orifice in the carburetor venturi from below the throttle plate (where it was exposed to full manifold vacuum at idle) to above the throttle plate, where it saw no manifold vacuum at all at idle. This meant the vacuum advance was inoperative at idle (retarding spark timing from its optimum value), and these applications also had VERY low initial static timing (usually 4 degrees or less, and some actually were set at 2 degrees AFTER TDC). This was done in order to increase exhaust gas temperature (due to "lighting the fire late") to improve the effectiveness of the "afterburning" of hydrocarbons by the air injected into the exhaust manifolds by the A.I.R. system; as a result, these engines ran like crap, and an enormous amount of wasted heat energy was transferred through the exhaust port walls into the coolant, causing them to run hot at idle - cylinder pressure fell off, engine temperatures went up, combustion efficiency went down the drain, and fuel economy went down with it. If you look at the centrifugal advance calibrations for these "ported spark, late-timed" engines, you'll see that instead of having 20 degrees of advance, they had up to 34 degrees of advance in the distributor, in order to get back to the 34-36 degrees "total timing" at high rpm wide-open throttle to get some of the performance back. The vacuum advance still worked at steady-state highway cruise (lean mixture = low emissions), but it was inoperative at idle, which caused all manner of problems - "ported vacuum" was strictly an early, pre-converter crude emissions strategy, and nothing more. What about the Harry high-school non-vacuum advance polished billet "whizbang" distributors you see in the Summit and Jeg's catalogs? They're JUNK on a street-driven car, but some people keep buying them because they're "race car" parts, so they must be "good for my car" - they're NOT. "Race cars" run at wide-open throttle, rich mixture, full load, and high rpm all the time, so they don't need a system (vacuum advance) to deal with the full range of driving conditions encountered in street operation. Anyone driving a street-driven car without manifold-connected vacuum advance is sacrificing idle cooling, throttle response, engine efficiency, and fuel economy, probably because they don't understand what vacuum advance is, how it works, and what it's for - there are lots of long-time experienced "mechanics" who don't understand the principles and operation of vacuum advance either, so they're not alone. Vacuum advance calibrations are different between stock engines and modified engines, especially if you have a lot of cam and have relatively low manifold vacuum at idle. Most stock vacuum advance cans aren’t fully-deployed until they see about 15” Hg. Manifold vacuum, so those cans don’t work very well on a modified engine; with less than 15” Hg. at a rough idle, the stock can will “dither” in and out in response to the rapidly-changing manifold vacuum, constantly varying the amount of vacuum advance, which creates an unstable idle. Modified engines with more cam that generate less than 15” Hg. of vacuum at idle need a vacuum advance can that’s fully-deployed at least 1”, preferably 2” of vacuum less than idle vacuum level so idle advance is solid and stable; the Echlin #VC-1810 advance can (about $10 at NAPA) provides the same amount of advance as the stock can (15 degrees), but is fully-deployed at only 8” of vacuum, so there is no variation in idle timing even with a stout cam. For peak engine performance, driveability, idle cooling and efficiency in a street-driven car, you need vacuum advance, connected to full manifold vacuum. Absolutely. Positively. Don't ask Summit or Jeg's about it – they don’t understand it, they're on commission, and they want to sell "race car" parts.

Take both vac hoses off the dizzy and block them, and set the timing without them to see how it runs. With a timing light on it you will see the ignition advance as you rev it. It should go from 10deg to 30deg or so. Then drive it and see if it pings. Usually you have to retard it to stop it pinging, but that does kill performance. Here's what I found- But if yours was running fine, the curve should be OK. That leaves timing that has shifted, or a vac hose problem, crappy fuel.. The coil dying gives a misfire rather than pinging, and the fuel pump shouldn't affect the firing.

Nice! I hope you had a drill in the vice and put the valve stem in the chuck then spun the carbon off the back with some #80grit dry paper & followed up with #180 wet 'n dry and some WD40... All that extra flow adds to the power you know! I thought you'd be converting it to an outboard engine!

So, the Whiteline Events are on Thursday over summer, and on the Tuesday we had got this far.. It had the exhaust made up by then, so Josh's brother & Mum took it to Sydney for a day on the dyno- It came back on Wednesday and we fitted most everything else, and on Thursday it was off to Sydney! Two big thunderstorms howled through, the track never dried out all night- But amazingly absolutely nothing went wrong! It ran perfectly all night and now Josh just needs to work out how to drive it. Anyone used launch control on a race car?? Feels very weird! Sequential boxes- don't leave your hand on the gearlever between short shifts, it will sense your hand and engage the throttle cut.. Not to mention twin-m'cyl brakes on Tilton pedals with bigger calipers, so many things different! Then back home, swap cars Friday and off to a gravel rallysprint in the Evo3 on Saturday. The 3 is behaving beautifully at the moment, not needing touching in the last three or four events. Last week, we bought the workshop expansion package and sorted out the slabs. They've both been poured, so while Big G sorts out the steelwork, Josh & I can get the Subaru finished... finally! Yeah, there's a scratch down my camera lens.. I should throw it away but I can't bring myself to do it...

Take the dizzy out, turn it one tooth and put it back in. One way or the other will get you in the 10deg timing range, and even if you turn it two teeth it won't worry it. Just play with it until you get it where you want it. While you have the cap off the dizzy, suck on the vac advance tube and make sure the dizzy base plate turns. If its jammed it is likely rust under the base plate where there are three ball-bearings it rotates on. Maybe your electronic setup runs on a different method, but it should rotate under vacuum. Make yourself a series of timing marks with whiteout correction pen around the crank pulley. When you have the motor running check the advance against it every 500rpm and generate a timing curve. That curve is generated by the centrifugal weights under the baseplate, and that's the ignition advance that is important. I've got a topic about it here- Most race cars disconnect the vac advance with Webers. The vac advance is just to advance the timing advance at cruise speeds for emission purposes, the moment you open the throttle to overtake someone it retards back to the centrifugal weight's setting, and then when you lift off and cruise again the vac advance sucks the timing up a few degrees to make sure the burn is better in a lean cylinder. So just disconnect it and see how you go. 4Ks can run with a lot more than the factory advance, they seem quite resistant to pinking, but too much advance does cost power. The whole reason for it is that flame propagation in the cylinder takes place at a constant speed, so to get the fuel burnt before the exhaust valve opens you have to light the fire earlier as piston speed goes up. Obviously from this it depends on compression, throttle opening, points gap, fuel octane, cam timing... there is no 'right' answer between different motors. It sounds like a fun motor! Can you balance the Webers yourself? Its not hard once you know the tricks.

I haven't heard of any available Ben, but I can check our local wrecker on Friday. Do you need the whole throttle body or just that throttle position sensor above??

Just blank it off with a plate Banjo, its warm enough up there to make the cold idle un-needed. Its adjustable if you want to go to the trouble, you could make it hardly by-pass any air at all, or none. The main problem is the ECU can't run a stepper motor for an idle control. Just that one advance in electronics simplified so many problems in an engine, Josh just turns the key and the racing car engine fires up and idles at 1250rpm perfectly. What do you reckon we are looking at? The resistance of the TPS? Not much reason for Toyota to change that. Size of the throttle plate? The 4AGE changed the orientation of the actuator arm between the big port & the small port, but you can move that around.

Anyone know if that throttle body was on another car of the same age? An early Camry or something? Toyota were keen to use the same parts over a wide range...

Its a lot of years since I had to do it, but yes, you can change the sump gasket with the motor in the car, and it is a hard job. You will need to lift the motor upwards, I used a jack on an engine mount, and it is still very difficult to get the back part of the sump forward between the oil pickup inside and the cross-member outside. You soon run into the limits of the radiator hose lengths, or the exhaust hitting the floor, and in the end its easier to pull the motor out! Getting the motor out is very easy compared to any other car. For just changing the gasket, once you lift the motor a bit you can drop the sump an inch or two and get the old gasket out, then drive yourself insane cleaning the block and the sump with the cross-member in the way, and finally fit the new gasket. Pull the four studs out of the bottom of the timing cover, the ones that hold the sump on and stop it sliding forward easily. Replace them with bolts ready for the next time you have to do the same job. Good luck!

There's a used one on Ebay for over $300... I reckon you could make one cheaper!! You don't need one as I changed the seal on my T-series Celica diff a stack of years back and I don't own one. The trickiest bit was making a jig to measure the friction in the bearing as its only a few inch.lbs torque. I had a measured weight on a piece of string hanging off a little flat bar bolted to the flange and sitting out horizontally.. This is probably the same manual you have-

There's a range of diffs you can fit, although the leaf-spring ones will need 5-link mounts welded on. I expect all of them will need a new driveshaft-diff end. The 5-linked Celica T-series diffs bolt straight in, that's what I use. There are F and G Toyota diffs off heavier cars, they will need mounts, and really, anything out of a Hilux or van that is designed for carrying more weight. Nissan Skyline diffs too. Along the way you will find them getting too wide, it depends on your car use, so they need to be shortened, which makes the conversion quite expensive. More modern vans use 5-links and come with disc brakes, I've run a tape over a couple of those. You'll just have to spend a few hours at the wreckers with a tape and a camera..

In a KE70 it comes off the coil negative, the black wire going to the distributor. There is a dedicated wire for it in the stock loom, even though the standard KE70 didn't have a tacho. You might find it in your wiring, or run a fresh wire from the coil -ve.

It should look like this I believe. The little layer of oil left in the sump was OK according to Toyota

January & back into it! That custom tray has finally left the workshop, it goes on a Patrol that is 12years old and never been registered. Someone bought a pair of them and kept on to do up, but never got around to it, and the current owner bought it to do the same. So its never even been dealer-prepared, it went straight to a farm on a delivery truck. The Evo5 is getting close, the firewall is in and awaiting sealing- The fuel system is done- All the work is in the wiring- We started on the Subaru again last week, and this week should see that cage finished. Then its Cake time!

I'm with Colin... Many people lower their car without thinking about the bump stops at the back. I reckon the best is to take the springs & shocks off and jack the diff up so you can mark where it hits the body and measure how much smaller you can make the bump stops. Then get or make thinner and softer bump stops so you still have something to slow the diff down before it smacks the body and dents it. The driveshaft often grinds into the tunnel as the diff nose rises under acceleration, another one to watch. There's always room to lower a car designed for 140kg of passengers in the back seat plus 70kg of luggage in the boot, and for the same reason you can run softer springs. If you do lower it with smaller bump stops, make sure the shocks compress more than the minimum distance, you don't want the shocks bottoming out first. I reckon it looks great like it is!

Well, things slowed down over the month, Josh had a job that actually paid money and the Evo5 was just getting bigger and bigger! The body was sprayed except for doors & guards, and the re-assembly commenced. Its actually very difficult to build a car without scratching the new paintwork.. Josh's dad is onto the wiring with his bro & I've been making the 7-piece rear firewall. Motor and mechanicals are mainly in, front & rear suspension, fuel & brake setups.. ..and the first Whiteline Tarmac Sprint is next week! So, in reality we will roll in the Evo3 gravel car on Monday for a check-over, and take that to Sydney on Thursday. Of course with the Troll being used as a test-bed for the tray we're building we figured it was a good time to fix the head gasket leak. Its now got a new head on and with a few more days work it will be ready for a Christmas break. Josh welded up a lot of the spotwelds holding the tray together, but then it was just too tempting as flat surface! So... Evo5 finished for the Whiteline events early next year, finish the tray, finish the Subaru cage sitting in the back shed and THEN onto KE70s!! (this is getting slower than Project Binky and not as entertaining!)

Any chance fuel from the return line gets out under the cap?? Have you ever checked how much fuel comes out of the return line? When I did I was surprised it was such a flood. Although I expect fumes from the vent pipe are the most likely culprit. Your diagram seems fine, vent the system to a charcoal canister and burn it. Would you be better to vent it from the where your current return is, and put the return in the port you're planning the vent on?? From taking the fuel cap off at the gas station, do you think the tank is under vacuum or pressure?? I've often felt its a rush of vapour out of the tank, not a rush of air into it. I put it down to the return line feeding heated fuel back into the tank so its thermal expansion, but I'd like second opinions. I'm running a different setup, the Ke70 fuel tank under the floor is more a pain, but I still smell raw fuel now and then.

True, true. (note to self- include manual when buried with The Girls KE70..)

You really think you own Windows 10 when you buy it?? No, you just own a licence to use it, subject to a lawyer's feast of conditions.. Cars will get to be the same, touch something and your warranty is void and the car won't start. (or be illegal to take on the road) Imagine self-drive cars being fiddled with by backyard mechanics! I'm amazed they even allow electric cars after so many have caught fire and can't be put out. If we converted a Falcon 50years ago, sold electrical conversion kits, then had 4 or 5 catch fire and be inextinguishable, we'd be in jail! Its only the push by the global warmists for electrics that even allows them to exist. There'll be some big changes, especially in motorsport, when it comes to modding cars.

There's only one astounding 4K conversion.. This one! But it shows that you can bore a 4K block out 6mm!! Lighten & knife-edge the crank, fit a 4AGE head and pull 9000rpm! That block is tough! As for running a motor in, I reckon get it running and take it driving, just general driving without letting the revs drop low enough to make it lug, or booting it so its pulling max power up into the rev range... just keep it lightly loaded driving around for half an hour while you watch the temp gauge. Then again, in South Africa Toyota took the cars off the end of the assembly line straight to the dyno room and ran them briefly at full power before parking them. Who knows?

Well, I've never driven a 3K, but Wiki says- 3K, 1166cc, torque 67-69 4K, 1290cc, torque 72 5K, 1486cc, torque 85lb.ft The 4K is 10% greater in capacity, and the 5K 15% greater again. You can see that in the torque, the 68 to 72 (6%) is less than a worn motor to a more-worn motor, while the jump to 85 (18%) is noticeable. So not much between a 3K and a 4K. You could warm the 3K up to make it faster, but that is all revs to get power, rather than getting any more torque. You could slip a turbo or supercharger onto it, but if you had that much money for fun you could fit a 4AGE. Even a cam, a head job, twin carbs and extractor, and a bigger exhaust will add up in dollars. A 5K would be a great choice, but there aren't that many old forkhoists or vans around now. The Y motors would be a close fit too, also out of vans etc, and they're out to 2L with 120lb.ft of torque. Price up rings and bearings on the 3K, do yourself a head job if the valves and seats are OK, get it skimmed and look for a cam with more lift but not much more duration. I can't think of a cheaper way for a little more grunt unless you're a welder who can make his own turbo manifold. All that stuff I did to The Girls KE70 made it a lovely car to drive, although fitting the 4AGE to it was chalk and cheese. Not so much faster, but it doesn't notice hills. Oh, and #4 cylinder wasn't doing any work, it shouldn't be any blacker than the others. Was the gasket blown between #2 & #3, the usual place when a head warps? or was it a problem at #4, the area where the motor gets really hot due to shit in the block? Banjo has a lovely solution for that, he made a bypass system that moved water around the back of the head more efficiently. The water holes at the front of the motor are blocked off by the gasket to force water to circulate to the back, so Toyota became aware of this problem early on. You know, you could cheat by fitting a 5-speed box and lowering the diff ratio.. Quicker acceleration & up the hills, and let 5th drop the revs for cruising.

What Dave said!! ..and remember 56% more power will be more than 56% more heat, so get an alloy radiator as well. I expect you'll sink the same amount of money again into the whole project, the new ECU will soak up a lot. The Haltech Sprint 500 is $1200 plus, & tuners don't work for less than $1000. As Dave said, buy the ECU and learn how to use it. Check the sales conditions very carefully, if it blows up you may or may not get a refund. It doesn't run a boost controller by the look, so it boosts as hard as it can and the BOV on the inlet controls the pressure going in. A great way to get power, but they radiate massive heat straight into the back of the radiator and then into the sump as the red-hot exhaust goes under it. With the Mitsi Evos we build for gravel and tarmac rallies, controlling the heat is the biggest headache. If you think your car runs hot now....

Those plugs will fit a whole lot of options the Japanese have but your car doesn't. You'll need to web search a wiring diagram and look at the colours of the wires. Chase the over-heating quite soon, its easy enough to cook a motor over the summer. When does it overheat? and how easily does it cool down again?? Fan come on OK? fan only does something until about 20kph, after that the airflow from moving does the work. Short out the sensor straight to earth & make sure the gauge goes to full hot. Start it cold with the rad cap off and check the gauge when it first gets warm from sticking your finger in it. Check the gauge again when its too hot to put your finger in.. Obviously a thermometer is the best tool, but use what you have. At least you know the gauge shows 'warm' or whatever when the thermostat opens, and hot for your hand is about 55-60deg. That's some sort of range or temperature.If you have a thermometer and find that halfway on the gauge is about 90deg, that's fine, and 3/4 gauge is worth worrying about. Alternatively, look up the resistance of the sensor and measure it with a multimeter, both hot and cold. If it is in spec then the sensor is fine. If the gauge reads correctly at those temps the gauge is OK. Then check the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens right up, or just replace it. Pull the rad out and flush it backwards. Let us know how you go-

As well as what Dave said, tip the block on its side and scrape all the rust and gunge out of the water jackets, particularly around number 4 cylinder. The slow water flow at the back of the engine means the rubbish piles up around there and causes overheating. Clean ALL the stud holes out with a rag on a screwdriver, then with a rag soaked in petrol on a screwdriver, then with a bolt of the same thread that has a wedge cut out of it with a grinder or hacksaw. That will clean the threads out. I usually spray it with Brake-clean aerosol after that and wipe them out again with a rag. Make sure you clean all the bolts and nuts, and oil them when assembling. The manifolds need a straight-edge along them too, the differential expansion of the alloy & cast iron distorts them over the years and leaking exhaust gaskets result. What I did is here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/