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Found 19 results

  1. Selling my 5K Engine... Unfinished Project... Block has been bathed, crack tested and decked by Jack's Brothers in Underwood... New double row timing chain and tensioner, Hoses, Oil filter, Thermostat gasket and Radiator Cap. Genuine Parts include, Head Bolts, Rocker Assembly Bolts, Head Gasket, Main Seal, Cam Seal, 45mm Welsh Plug and Spark Plug Stems x10 (spares). $600 ono
  2. Keihin CVK-36 Quad carby setup for 5K Engine... Bought them for my 5k project that never eventuated... $500 ono
  3. Chasing a harmonic balancer for a 5k. Helping a friend out. Its a 1990 liteace. Hers has split in two. Or an alternative if there is one. Luke
  4. Planning some work on my KE55, time for a build thread. Here goes: I bought this stock as a rock KE55 a few months ago, and have been pouring time into learning how everything works and repairing whatever issues spring up. So far, I've changed the stock carby to a 32/32 weber off a fiat 500 (or similar), given it a thorough tuneup, done a couple of suspension bushings, etc. and changed the clutch after it exploded when I was interstate. It's developed a decent misfire, and I've diagnosed this as a piston ring issue. The motor also has just on 200k kms on it. I figure if I'm going to take the motor out to fix it, I may as well change it for a 5k! I picked up a 5k (not sure what vehicle it was from) that has had a full rebuild and never been run: cylinders have been honed, oversized pistons, all new bearings, head tested and cleaned up, new double row timing chain and a clive cams 265 duration cam grind. It didn't come with anything attached, so dizzy, manifolds, carby, alternator, fuel pump, flywheel clutch, oil filter, engine plate, etc. are all going to come off the old motor. It's also missing the pushrods, so I am planning on getting these this week and putting the motor back together with a new head gasket, doing the welch plugs, gaskets and seals, and generally getting it ready for the other motor to come out so the old parts can be transplanted. This is my first time doing anything this involved, so there has been a lot of reading the yellow book, gregory's manual and the how to build a tough 4k thread. All things going to plan I will find a hoist to borrow and try and drop the new motor in in the next fortnight. I think I'll need to take it to an exhaust shop and get a full exhaust (including extractors), before the swap, since the cammed 5k in unlikely to run too well on the stock exhaust. Here are some photos of the engine bay as is, and the 5k parts: I'll update as it comes along, and will probably need advice on this or that! Thanks for reading Jasper
  5. I know a lot of people aren't interested in playing around with the stock K series Aisan carburettor. I reckon they're tops and if it wasn't for the ridiculous cost of a rebuild kit and a dip in the acid bath, i'd spend my days rebuilding these little gems. I've handled a quite a few 3k and 4k variants but i'm looking for any information on jet sizing in regards to the 5k version. I know there are variations between each and every carb but sizing on the idle, mains and power jet would be great. Below are my ke70 4k and ke30 3k carbs.
  6. Hey guys just recently brought my 1987 Ka67 AUTOMATIC Toyota Carina for a steal. Its running a 5k 3 speed automatic box and was curious to see if a k50 manual would bolt up to it? If so, what pedal box can i use to operate the clutch which was never there? I know its not a corolla, but i thought I'd give it a shot, sick of the crummy auto box already! Cheers!
  7. Might be looking for a new engine for the KE30 soon, if anyone has a functional or close to functional k series for sale let me know. Thanks, Goose Edit: I'm also considering a 4age swap, but I'm researching that further. So if anyone has parts that would help towards that I would be interested. I need to find out everything I would need for that conversion first though.
  8. Hi Guys, Ive had to let my car go due to financial reasons and i have the drive train parts still available and thought i would offer for sale here first. Located Brisbane $2500 - accepting offers Looking to sell everything together as below 5k Short block still in box from toyota - Would cost you $3k USD to have one sent from Japan 3k Bigport head still in factory wrapping Twin 1 1/2 SU's and lynx manifold 4k rocker cover / sump / oil pickup and other parts to complete the short block k50 5 speed box - good condition k40 4 speed box if you want it Also have some bike carbs and assorted stuff which will go with engine. So rather than rebuilding an old engine why not have a 0K factory balanced block. Happy to talk about offers either here or you can text on 0417 449 641
  9. Hey guys, I want to convert ke20 stock 1200cc engine to 5k liteace 1500cc engine. Can you list things that I supposed to retrieve and do to my ride. Well I already found the 5k 1500cc engine but its not a halfcut... Just an engine with sort of wire with it... Is this a perfect engine to do convertion on my KE20? Or do I need to add some more to make it perfect? I want to make my KE20 more silence and reliable car with efficient fuel consume... BTW, I found this engine but I haven't buy it yet because I want to learn about it and preventing from overusing my money on something that doesn't really necessary to buy... Help me to do the "list to do" guys... Need your help so much... TQ rollaclub.com
  10. Recently purchased a twin downdraft manifold from a KP31. I am now considering putting 2 Webers 36 DCNF on it. Will that be a proper thing to do or should I consider 2 32/36 DGV's FYI: The engine is a 4K from a KE70 with a K50 gearbox, all these replaced my stock 2K engine on my Publica KP36. Any suggestions?
  11. Hi all, I have a strange rattle I cannot diagnose. I drive a Ke74 Corolla, 5kj engine and T40 box, there is a rattle when decelerating. I can't tell if it is coming from the drivetrain or the engine... it only seems to happen in 3rd or 4th gear, when decelerating and completely off throttle between 4000 - 3000rpm. Adding a little throttle or clutch in ever so slightly and the noise goes away. Could it be a lean condition when off throttle? A bearing in the gearbox? Cheers for any input, Ol.
  12. Hi all, I have two issues with my 87 Toyota Corolla "Ke74" that I am fairly certain are drivetrain related. This is a T40 gearbox. When I bought the car 6 months ago the seller told me the clutch had recently been replaced with a new heavy duty unit. Firstly: In 4th gear, there is a rattling sound under load, ie, accelerating up hills, or decelerating downhill (no accelerator). The sound stops when the clutch is depressed even slightly. Secondly: When shifting on a bumpy road, the bumps can be felt within the transmission. It is like the the internals of the transmission are moving, blocking me from shifting into gear. This one really has me scratching my head. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  13. Hey all, thought I'd share a few pictures and details of my ke35. I bought the car last year in 2015. I traveled about 3 hours south of Sydney to pick it up! It has a 4sp manual powered by a 3k. I've been toying with the idea of building this car and swapping the engine but I'm still undecided. Torn between the idea of power and keeping things original. This is the not long after I bought it. It was sitting on 15x6.5 inch Lenso wheels at stock height. The car had no center console so I rigged up a ke70 handbrake surround and installed the gear stick surround also. I installed a head unit in the centre console and carpeted the rear parcel tray. I put two 6 1/2 inch speakers in the tray, they still look sleek and don't take away from the car. At this point I decided to begin cleaning up a 5k from a ke30 that I had. The motor was filthy, I took it apart, replaced all seals, welch plugs and cleaned the valves up. Here's a few pics of the progress. After taking everything apart, the internals seemed to be in decent condition after a good clean. At this point I lowered the front and rear to get it sitting a little nicer. I used 2 inch lowering blocks to raise the diff. I then welded up a full 2 inch stainless steel exhaust and bought extractors also. I put a hotdog muffler in the middle and a normal oval shaped resonator/muffler in the rear. It doesn't drone at all and has a nice tone to it. I don't wake the neighbors up late at night either. I then put on some black chaser wheels. They are 15x5.5 inch. The offset is suited for FWD but I have wheel spacers to make up for this. I was happy with the look of the new wheels but I decided to add chrome dress rings and white walls. I also purchased original rear venetians. Within the next month or so I'll be putting the 5k motor in and installing a 5 speed manual (I've already picked this up). I hope you enjoyed reading some of the changes and stay tuned for any updates!
  14. Hey RollaCLUB Fans ^_^ This is my corolla, my daily. I love this car so much its a great daily/weekend cruiser. Its running a 5k apart from that its pretty stock. This wont be a crazy build thread, prob just randoms pics n lite mods. [Old rims,old pic] I got some new rims over the last few weeks. Has nice dish too ^_^ Front: SSR Star Sharks 14x7 -2. with 165/65 tyres Rear: Enkei AP Racing 13x7 -1. with 175/70 tyres
  15. so here i am, the fat beareded non santa that should be but not really... I'm 6'3" and 120kg with a ke35 and all i want is to do dirty mutherʞ©$ɟing burnouts and love this car. ive just had to put the neighhbours dog back in their yard and fucck..... so my story runs.... ke35 off a mate years ago, rust and injury free apart from a Tbone in a drivers door...... other than that and a ʞ©$ɟing mega stack of beers ive started. origninally i built this weapon to run a 5k i bought fro a ke70.. loved it.... minimal issues, got the car running and registered for a dick weed mate who drove it round. he finally got a work car and i took it off the road to put a 3t in it. ʞ©$ɟ!!!!!!! man what am i doing swapping gold out for pewter?>!?!?!?! that motherʞ©$ɟing 3t had more bark than alot of 4cyls and yet still I'm a ʞ©$ɟing retard to hold back...... sold the best engine i had for some garbage rebuild 5k and thats where I'm at.................. Now,........ Anyone whos half cluey with 40mmdcoe twins with my setup i need some love. ive just built a 40thou over 5k bottom end, crank, rods and slugs balanceds, the compression ratio I'm running is with 5k solid slugs which have been cut down to give me 11.6:1 compression ratio I have phill duggan making me a tropppo cam to suit the head flow and compression, but now my issues is what the ʞ©$ɟ do i do with with my 40mmdcoe webers................ Blown4k off clubk says run big venturies..... now my issue is well this is the last step before cam install in my engine.................... but i want to start with the right carb setup. anyone half cluey who can help me out would bew aw0esome because I'm about to set these carbs up to suit this engine. the cars a bucket of shit..... alll go no show but i can't wait to have some little k motor on the streets
  16. Hi everyone! My name is Jose Garro, and I'm from Costa Rica, Central America. Last year, I bought a 1974 KE20 from a friend's uncle. In general, the car is in a very solid state, and because of previous modifications, has good potencial as a project. It has a 5k engine, a 5 speed T50 tranny, and a OEM brake booster (I believe from a newer Corolla or Starlet). The previous owner put in a set of wide 12" wheels, with low profile tires, and because the bad roads we have in Costa Rica, the suspension (bushings, dampers) and the underbody was in a very bad condition. Also, all the body rubber is, literally speaking, toasted, and the rust problems tipical of this Corollas are present and in very advance state: airbox, firewall, around the wheel openings, in the floor, in all the doors (in the lower parts), around the front and rear windshields, and in the trunk. The electrical was another nightmare, with bad wires, incorrect connections, and so on. My plan is, in a period of (hope for) 2 years, restore it using new or OEM parts, but with a few upgrades. To this date, this is a short list of the work I'm done: - Suspension: new KYB dampers, arms and tie rods, and new bushings all around, keep the stock front springs and rear leafs. I need to replace the pitman and idler arm, working on it. - Brakes: reconditioned drums and brake cylinders, new brake shoes, new hand brake cables, replaced brake fluid. - Engine: new water pump, belt, spark plugs, filters, oil, restored electronic distributor, new distributor cables, regulator and coil, new mounts, new OEM carburator. - Transmission: new OEM clutch kit, replaced oil, new mount. - Electrical: new engine bay's electrical installation, new connectors, proper wire to the alternator, starter and battery, reconditioned starter and alternator, new battery, cleaned and checked all the interior (under the dash) wires, connections and switches, new ground connections. - Lights: New H4 sealed beams, OEM front and fender turning lights, OEM rear lights and license lights. - Body exterior: painted all the exterior plastic parts, SR5 grille, Formula 13" wheels (I can't afford real Minilites) with new Firestone 205/60 tires, lowered suspension in the back using wood blocks, installed a used but like new Cusco strut tower bar, new mirrors. - Interior: new OEM dash pad from Japan, reconditioned dash plastic parts, Nardi 36cm leather steering wheel, OEM like new steering column plastic cover, made a new tray behind the rear seat, new seat belts, cleaned and reconditioned gauge cluster, new 5 speed engraved shift knob, new OEM interior light/mirror combo. - Other: cleaned and checked the fuel tank and lines, did a water pressure wash in the underbody and repaired (temporaly) with glass fibre all the rust holes in the floor and trunk. At this moment, the car is driveable again, and passed with flying colors the local inspection. The engine has lots of torque and is very economical, but because of the stock differential, the terminal speed is low, 120 kph tops, beyond that the aerodynamic instability and small carburator put a solid wall to the fun. With the new tires, the handling is good, but no brilliant. I'm working in a dash central piece, my idea is recreate the Levin/Trueno part, using VDO gauges (tach, ampmeter and oil pressure) in place of the stock radio, and instead of the heater controls, I plan to create a mini glove compartment for put in small items, like the cell phone or glasses. Also, I like to test front fender flares for cover properly the front wheels (with this wheel and 205/60 tire combo, the front wheels excel about 1 inch of the fenders). I'm looking for all the windshield (front, rear) rubber, also for the doors and the door's glass, a good condition rear bumper (the actual has damage from a old accident and is very rusted because of the tailpipe) and a proper accelerator pedal. In the near future, I plan to make all the electrical system new, my idea is update it to make more room for other items, like a modern radio and amplifier, an alarm, internal lights, etc., using relays, an updated alternator and actual technology. Also, the seats need to be upholstered, and I want to upgrade all the suspension bushings using urethane (of similar) parts. And then, I need to save big money for repair all the rust problems, and at the same time, add reinforcements using bars in strategic points, my idea is to gain structural stifness but without using a proper roll cage. And of course, paint it in a period correct color (the actual color is very, let me say, colorful, and not period correct). But I'm thinking in a 2 year period for do this. I like to thank all the people of this forum for their help, advice and of course, OEM parts (I can't remember all their names, so please forgive me). And of couse, some photos of my car...hope you like it!
  17. Hi all, I have what appears to be an early model valve cover, with only one opening which i assume is for a breather. I wish to put this on my 5k (due to the fact that its polished), however I have concerns over pressurising the valve cover. Can anyone advise me to how were they vented/set up on the earlier models (ie, do they have a PCV valve, or are they vented directly to the atmosphere), or if you have fitted one to a 4/5k, how did you plumb the system. Cheers in advance Andrew
  18. ok just finished putting the 5k with k50 in my ke55 and surprise of all surprises it wont start. things to consider; there is fuel. jet is ok. there is spark (my heart is still going.....) cam timing is definitely right. so this leaves me at ignition timing. what i need to know is, what is the firing order (can't find it anywhere!)a link to a photo would be best! HELP need the car to run asap as it needs to go off to the shop to get an exhaust from manifold back to be made up and all tuning etc etc before i get my licence back!!!!!
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