altezzaclub

It would be nice to see what helicopter was lifting the Hilux. A Jetranger lifts 400Kg odd, so we might just get away with one of those, but I reckon 6 burly young men are more likely. Tables delivered, everyone impressed, and apparently we have a Megane sitting in the workshop awaiting a half-cage..

Well, the weather has definitely turned to crap! The wreckers said we can take the shell and replace it with ours when we're done, which is great of him... but he can't get a forkhoist down the muddy lanes until it all dries out. He's looking at early spring!! So we need a method of getting the KE70 down off the Skyline it is sitting on, with double-stacked cars front, both sides and behind, without bending the roof or similar! Meanwhile the Cake stays outside as we have a contract to build 4 steel mesh tables for the Botanic Gardens Volunteers... another one of my hobbies.

Well, things went sideways fast after that! I rocked up on Thursday morning to find the Cake outside and a giant press brake sitting in the middle of the floor! It came up for sale in almost-new condition at a good price so it had to be bought! Now we can bend ute trays and similar. What it really meant was the day turned into a massive workshop rearrangement to find room for it! Dig out the motors stored in the back to put the mill there.. hang on, the three motors need stands so they can be stacked.. The steel rack and random sheets of steel that came with the press were to go in the back room too, but that would block access for the stairs that hadn't been built to the mezzanine yet.. So by Friday arvo we had the stairs in place, the steel rack in, the mill moved... and I took the CA20 engine loom out of the Pintara. The next twist was asking Jase at the wreckers if we could take the whole KE70 shell we were about to chop up for its almost-rust-free rear quarters! That will be difficult as its blocked in by other wrecked cars, but hopefully we just re-shell The Orange Cake and avoid the rust problem. We shall see...

Well, it was looking like this this morning- and like this by late afternoon- A tall skinny motor, we just cut the mounts right off the cross-member and re-shaped them to fit. Josh was making the g'box cross-member when I left. We'll stick to injection after long discussions, complicated, but it is all there and working. It means the loom swap will be a hurdle, but not as bad as the rust problem! They make the hydraulic clutch conversion look simple!

I thought I'd start this for fun, its just what I've been doing over the covid time. Josh used to navigate for Steve in the rally car, although he had his own 180B rally machine at the time. Since then he moved down to Blayney, about 40Km from Orange, and seeing I'm not building rally cars up in Walcha I've been giving him a hand. These days he has an Evo3 for gravel work and an Evo5 for tarmac stuff, and a few cars lying around. I figure we can build cheap entry-level race cars as a sideline business, Josh does roll cages and general fabrication as a business, so we are well-suited for it. The first candidate was a rusty orange KE70 we knocked up last year as a gymkhana car, meaning he extended the LCAs, shortened the steering arms, welded the diff up and bolted on a 32/36 Weber! Seeing there is a 2L injected Pintara sitting there we pulled the motor out of that yesterday and then started on the KE70. By the time I go down there after writing this I expect the 4K will be outside and the CA sitting in its place. Anyone want a running 4K & K50?? I'll get some photos today, obviously it will need engine & g'box mounts, a driveshaft, radiator, fuel system and all the ECU looms hooking up, but I'm sure we will have it running in a few days. Then we tackle the rust... Whether to cage it or not, or run twin SUs or injection, hasn't been finalised yet, but we plan to make it look passable, use it with big "For Sale" ads on it, and sell it to someone keen to get into motorsport. I went to the Whiteline tarmac rallysprint with him last Thursday, my first time there, and I was amazed at the wide range of cars entered. You can run anything that passes scrutiny, so a road car to a race car, and I figure that's the sort of place we build cars for. Josh came 2nd in the Evo5, as usual trailing an Evo8 worth several times as much money and driven extremely well. It started raining halfway through the night, which really added some interest! Here's a Moke we caged recently for his cuz- The previous one was a Corolla for a racing team- The Bluebird he bought off Steve 5years ago has become a drift weapon, radiator in the boot, giant turbo, tube chassis.. The Evo3 was ruined in the Armidale rallysprint in 2019, the brakes failed on a fast downhill to a bridge, so it needed a complete front quarter replacement- It sat for all of 2020 untouched, then when rallying started up again we assembled it for the test day two weeks back. I better go, I will be late!

My tinnitus has got worse, and I haven't had the vaccine! That'll be the 5G, an extensive description of how electromagnetic radiation affects us (and all animals and plants) since we discovered making it is in a book online called "The Invisible Rainbow". Fascinating stuff on how we have degraded ourselves since the early 1800s with electricity, radio, TV, radar, microwaves and mobile phones... and tinnitus gets mentioned along with the nervous diseases and the new virus pandemics that come along with each new wavelength. The Doctor that wrote it even mentions the collision-avoidance radar in new cars and the thousands of satellites all beaming radiation down onto us, so its pretty recent. I was reading about the sickness in the crew of HMAS Sydney straight after they were given the vaccine, and Mr Hunt being rushed to hospital also just after it, but it was in an overseas paper and they had a much stronger slant on it all than the Aussie media. There is no truth anymore, and no-one can be trusted..

Steve bought a Yaris as soon as they were announced, I haven't seen it yet. I'd love to know how it feels against his Dad's Focus RS! I saw one in Orange yesterday, a damm ugly car especially around the rear corners. Somehow looks bent or broken, or maybe some extra bits were tacked on as an afterthought.. The Corolla was a good buy, I'm hoping I get more for my Datsun 1600 when I finally get around to finishing it.

Well, I don't have enough time left in my life to watch youboob videos, but I can tell you lightening a car works.. When I was on the track in Clubmans Racing in Cape Town we ran under handicap rules. I would head out onto the track for practice with everything in the car just as it was driven to the track. After we were awarded our handicap times I took out the tools and rubbish inside and went racing. If you didn't exceed your handicap lap time by a certain % you were OK, so it paid to be a bit quicker but not too much. The handicaps were re-calculated for the next race, so out went the spare wheel & jack & back seat. Enough to keep me close to the front, if not on the podium. Handicap racing is extreme, EVERYONE catches up with everyone else on the last half of the last lap, so going long the back straight to the hairpin with Jaguars, Falcon GTs, Camaros, Perana Capris all going past until the braking markers is exciting to say the least. Sorting out how to get past them under braking is even moreso! ----------------------------- ... and the DMC is still talking about coming back! https://robbreport.com/motors/cars/new-delorean-dmc-12-models-coming-soon-2894768/

Fair enough- if you have an external regulator that will be the next most likely culprit. Both my flatty KE70 & the slanty had internal reg altys, but maybe they had been replaced and factory was an external reg. Your original alty may be good and the external reg has died. See which setup you have, the external reg is a small black metal box with wires running out of it.

No, the battery should be fine, it is not in the ignition light circuit. Was it a new alty or a reco, or just one out of another car? It sounds like the alty is charging OK, maybe its a wiring issue. The charge light circuit looks like this- or like this- which shows both internal & external regs. Have a read through this too- http://wilbo666.pbworks.com/w/page/39441708/Toyota Alternators

Unless someone has done that conversion into a KE20 you'll have to measure it up with the motor in. I used the stock RWD manifold and made up the pipes going from two to one under the floor. Doing it cheap, I even bought a good exhaust system off a VL Commodore at the wreckers and cut it up to remake it into the shape I needed. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/10/#comments There are several big companies making beautiful shiny extractors for the 4AGE, sure to fit a KE70 or an AE86, but I don't know how they would fit over your steering.

Yes, take the wires off first then one bolt on top, and two on bottom.

The red light comes on when there is more power going out of the battery than into the battery, so yes, things weren't charging. You have the 12volts a battery stores energy at, but no stored energy behind it, it has no amp-hours stored. Put it on a charger overnight. If you start the motor & check with the multimeter you should get over 13V. If you don't, check the wires and wriggle them for fractures or loose connections, then pull the alty out and strip it to check the carbon brushes, they wear away while it is running. The other likely suspects are the diodes that convert AC power into one-way DC, they burn out over the years. Alternatively, whip the alty out and drop it into an auto electrician or similar.

Thanks parrot- Yes, intermittent faults are the absolute worst! That idle up sensor had me flummoxed when I fitted the motor until I figured out what it was. I ran it for sometime with a dash switch, although that has been re-purposed for an electric fan over-ride since. I do remember even the idle up couldn't keep it running in its determined-to-die spiral sometimes. I might hook it back up just to see... These are the 270deg cams apparently, it can't pull the skin off rice pudding under 2000rpm. I was intending to swap the head for the rally car's stock setup eventually, just swapping cams means doing tappet buckets as well and its no longer a 5minute job. Its interesting you didn't have the jerky over-run, I'll keep searching....

Well, over 6months later, that was the solution & no further problems. Rego came around last week & the usual garage I go to has been handed down to one of the sons, and he pinged me for tyres and exhaust leak. Fair enough, I could have squeezed 6months out of those tyres before the wear strips, but meh.. Worse was, it didn't idle for him so he put a comment on the sheet & needs it to idle in 12months. He was really keen on a dyno garage in Dubbo, but that's a 300km round trip from here and I dunno how many hundreds of dollars on the machine. He said it would be a thousand dollars well spent.. Nearly killed me! The difference comes in that he thinks the dyno guy can alter the ECU to make it idle with its race cams, while I understand that you can't alter anything in the ECU. All there is to play with is ignition timing & idle speed, and as I have played with, the waxstat cold idle adjustment. It idles a lot of the time, but then drops a couple of hundred rpm, then another couple, then dies.. Doesn't worry me, I'm used to it, I heel & toe naturally. I reckon the jerky over-run is also cam related, there is just a very poor idle vacuum for the MAP to work off. Any ideas?? Things improved when I put the mixture display back in and hooked it onto the oxy sensor wire. I'd taken it out to calibrate a mate's system and ...found I never re-connected the oxy sensor to the ECU as I planned on putting the mixture display back on that afternoon, and didn't! Its better now it doesn't have to run on the ECU map in open loop, and of course when I took it back to the garage he talked about it but didn't try it! Tyres are meh... Falkens on the front, Bridgestones on the back, and at least the Bridgestone's soft sidewalls give it that lovely sharp tail-out turn in. I already know putting them the other way around gives gentle endless understeer. There are just no good 13" compounds made any more.

Here's the dimensions I measured off my 1983 slanty when I converted it to Diahatsu Move vented discs. They would be the $52 discs at 218mm. I wonder if the 229mm ones are on AE86s. The longer life ones, 83-87, are on wagons & vans. They stopped making KE70/AE71 in 83.

That last photo looks great! I'd say that's a perfect ride height.

Well, if you can write an update your pancreas must still be working.. what made you check for diabetes? My wife developed type 1 a few years back, she's never really got it under control, any stress like going to work does crazy things to her sugar levels. Hopefully yours is more straightforward, and a couple of weeks in the shed should be relaxing!

We had a full brake hose set made in stainless steel for the rally car, just sent off the extended lengths we wanted and that all worked out well. These sorts of guys- https://www.braidedhoses.com.au/ https://www.powerbrakes.com.au/brake-and-clutch-hose-manufacturing

Well, here's another myth blamed on "global warming" being debunked.. and an ongoing problem as electric cars will still need tyres. ---------------------------------------------- Just last year, PBS and Popular Science were screaming about “climate change” being the cause with headlines likeClimate Change is Killing Salmon in the Pacific Northwest and Climate change is cooking salmon in the Pacific Northwest It seems they were wrong, dead wrong. New University of Washington research published December 3rd in the journal Science, exonerates “climate change” in the salmon killing caper and finds a surprise villain; an additive to automobile tires, not “climate change.” In fact, the researchers specifically ruled out climate-driven temperature increase as a cause. Basically, the process is like this: stormwater runoff carries tire wear rubber particles into streams from the nearby roads, where a chemical called 6PPD-quinone, a biproduct from the 6PPD preservative added on tires to prevent breakdown by ozone, leeches into the water. It has been determined that this chemical is highly toxic to salmon. Researchers say they identified 6PPD-quinone as the “smoking gun” behind salmon deaths in freshwater streams. Here are some relevant quotes from the University of Washington press release, Tire-related chemical is largely responsible for adult coho salmon deaths in urban streams, bold mine: “We had determined it couldn’t be explained by high temperatures, low dissolved oxygen or any known contaminant, such as high zinc levels,” said co-senior author Jenifer McIntyre, an assistant professor at WSU’s School of the Environment, based in Puyallup. “Then we found that urban stormwater runoff could recreate the symptoms and the acute mortality. “[We]…found something called 6PPD, which is used to keep tires from breaking down too quickly. “It’s like a preservative for tires,” Tian said. “Similar to how food preservatives keep food from spoiling too quickly, 6PPD helps tires last by protecting them from ground-level ozone.” “But when 6PPD reacts with ozone, the researchers found that it was transformed into multiple chemicals, including 6PPD-quinone (pronounced “kwih-known”), the toxic chemical that is responsible for killing the salmon. This chemical is not limited to the Puget Sound region. The team also tested roadway runoff from Los Angeles and urban creeks near San Francisco, and 6PPD-quinone was present there as well. This finding is unsurprising, the researchers said, because 6PPD appears to be used in all tires and tire wear particles are likely present in creeks near busy roads across the world.”

"buy a different project car to build" If you can, then yes! Get something cheap, very average and ratty and use it to learn on. Do the motor up, change the suspension and hit the autocross circuits!

True! Trade economy for performance and fit a Weber, but it won't do much if the exhaust is restrictive... and then the stock cam won't be able to push the revs high enough to make the most of the bigger carb.. and higher compression will really get it going up top, and then port matching and sizing.. Its a punishing spiral once you're on it! The thing about building an individual car is that Toyota built a giant compromise to try and suit everyone, but each of us can make the car much better for fewer things. I hardly ever have another person in the car yet it seats 5, I'll never tow anything, or fill it to max load, so I can concentrate on making it light & nimble. Decide what your car is for and lay out an overall plan. Weber sure, but what else will optimise it.

I've got the little 4K manual here, but its a .pdf so you will have to PM me an email address. I have the full workshop manual for an AE86, but its printed out & I can't remember where I found the file.. somewhere on the net. Parrot has some good tech books, he might see your post or PM him.

Pretty straightforward- Screws into plastic clips in the rubber strip across the car under the bonnet, tabs on the scuttle panel that slide out under the screen. Clean the box out the best that you can, a lot of leaves and dirt gets in there and hold moisture in so it rusts. Oil the joints in the wiper arms while you're in there too. I can't remember if you HAVE to take the bonnet off, or if it just helps to make it easy. I'm only taking the scuttle off when I have the bonnet off anyway.

Interesting.. what diameter is the barrel? Asian are using a dual-choke for the same size engine. Put two of them on a 3K twin manifold! We want before & after dyno graphs!! Even smartphone GPS ones on the same bit of road... Car weighs 860kg, even lighter than a KE70.