altezzaclub

...and the general motor noise was much quieter too! I put a manual over-ride with that light on mine.

"there're many zones on the web just where a person can very easily spend their spare time." Work on your Rolla much?

Were any numbers stamped on it? I thought they were 1.53mm, but it could be anything with so many carbs for different countries. 1.7 to 1.8 would be good. Anyway, give it a whizz and see how it goes!

Nah, it won't boost free-reving, that takes no power to do. If you haven't done it already, PM 68KE15 and Taz_Rx and ask them what advance and jets they used, at least they've both built turbo 4Ks in the past. You'll end up needing a mixture display or some dyno time to make sure the mixture doesn't lean out somewhere in the power curve. I've used a mixture display a lot, I like being able to glance at it under all sorts of driving conditions.

Well done! Now you're halfway there! Sort the teething problems and then start the long difficult process of making it run cleanly. I assume there's a boost gauge in there somewhere, what do you think it will hold before it blows up? 7psi? 10? 12? Anything that is above zero will make it a lot faster! oh- If you haven't drilled that second throat jet I wouldn't rush until you're driven it for a few weeks, you'd need to be pretty sure that is the right thing to do, and that size is the right size. If the stock jet is 1.53mm then the 1.8 will be 40% larger in area. Do you think you'll make 40% more power?

Ah, you're right- No photos yet. I've just sent you an email, we will see if email works between us. Some people it doesn't, I can send them an email and it just never arrives, and of course I don't know if I fail to receive email from other people. You can click and drag photos into Rollaclub pages, both forum pages like this one or PM pages, its at the bottom of this 'reply' box I'm writing in. Cheers

1986 is very late. I'm sure you're not in Australia. The change is from having indicators in the mudguards for the phase one flat-front to indicators in the headlight edge in the phase 2 slant-front. You will find the colours listed on the wiring diagram here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Basically green/yellow wires are right-hand side, green/black left-hand side indicators and white/black are earths. Plain green wires are for the 'markers', what I would call side-lights or park lights.

OK, it should be screwed from the front, right through the light and into the frame behind. The end of the screw is shown by the yellow arrow. Of course the moment you have a little crash, that's the end of that corner.. See what you have in that spot.

Nah, stick with one thread.. edit the title to "The Training Wheels Nightmare.." The BorgWarner diffs are rubbish, as whiny as all shit. Replace it with a Japanese-made banjo-style diff when you can. Any of the 5-link Celicas (imports) and some Coronas I think. Google banjo and salisbury diffs and see the difference in the way they are made. Banjo diffs have limited slip centers available for later on. Watch the ratio when buying one, you want a 4.1 or a 4.3 over a 3.9 if you can. Maybe its got no oil in... (black engine bay remember!) You better get under this car! I sometimes park a low car over the gutter to jack it up. I can't figure out what you want for the headlight, I had a look at my slanty and it looks like that one in the photo but without the dent! Maybe another photo..

" I figured if there is wrong with the fusebox or wiring loom I could switch it all" Excellent idea! Painful under the dash, but it will remove any mistakes someone else may have made in your loom.

"I was thinking about starting to pull every fuse one by one while the fan spins to see if i could isolate the problem to a specific area " Yep! Start with that! Even if you find one that stops it spinning, continue on to check them in all fuse boxes in case two of them affect it. There are three sets of fuses, drivers footwell, steering column, and that big box on the battery, and 3 relay boxes I can think of, one in driver's footwell, one in passenger's and one on the battery.

Well, I really don't know if it matters. The vacuum diaphram that opens the 2nd throttle might get a surprise... it may not open the 2nd throttle at all ! I'm dying to see!

Well, if you moved the i'cooler upwards close to the bonnet, put a foam square around it for the bonnet to seal to, and put a rear-facing vent in the bonnet it will suck air up through it. Do you think the carb will work without blowing petrol out backwards somewhere? Taz enclosed his in a box so pressure was at boost inside and outside the carb. He's got a write-up all about it on here. 78pages long! Hard to see the carb with Photofucket covering everything.

Yeah, it is awkward. I was wondering about horizontally above the fan and use an electric fan. Then you'd need an exit duct in the bonnet so air came in through the rad and upwards through the i'cooler. Then I figured its easier to cut a hole under the i'cooler where it is and box air through it and upwards to go out a bonnet vent there. Maybe even fit an electric fan to the i'cooler itself instead of relying on passive airflow. Put a couple of temp sensors in there Mr P, one before the cooler and one after, we will be fascinated to see what temperature drops can be achieved. It looks a simple cheap way to get some grunt. Taz can give you pointers about timing and mixture, he's the turbo K man.

That's a great increase in the exhaust! Do you compare notes with oldeskewltoy? Datsun found the same with their SSS back in 1969/70s, the big-ports never got enough revs up to really use the ports size, and they went to a medium ports afterwards. What cam size are you planning this around?

Here's the tridon catalogue. I'd go for a 95-90deg normally open thermoswitch, so it closes at 95deg and runs the fan, then when it cools to 90deg it opens the switch and shuts the fan off again. A TFS 106. To mount it you cut the top rad hose and buy a fitting like this- https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/40-mm-Water-Temp-Temperature-Joint-Pipe-Sensor-Gauge-Radiator-Hose-Adapter/283477383868?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200514085037%26meid%3Db600116c03ac42299b7505989c0a4b55%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D8%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D161306026253%26itm%3D283477383868%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWeb%26brand%3DGPI+Racing&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851 So, you need a thermoswitch, then an adapter that fits the radiator hose diameter (new cars have smaller hoses) AND it must fit the diameter and pitch of the thermoswitch. So make sure the thermoswitch will bolt into the adapter and the adapter will fit the hose. Beware, Ebay is full of Chinese dickheads who don't list the diameter and pitch of the t'switch fitting in their adapter, they just give you the hose diameter! Hmm... you might have to be ready to drill out your $15 Chinese crap and re-thread it to suit the Tridon switch. They all seem to be 1/8th NPT on Ebay. I bought mine from these guys- https://www.ddiauto.com.au/ Then a cheap 20amp 4 pole relay for $15 and we can tell you how to wire it when you're ready. DO NOT overheat the motor because you forgot to turn the fan on! ..unless you feel like learning how to do a head gasket job!

Are the hoses on the tappet cover connected to the air cleaner/inlet manifold?? If one is unconnected it will be the source of your oil smoke. Otherwise, as the guys day, wheel bearings and engine mounts are no problem, ask how when you're ready to do it. The thump is a misfire in a cylinder that is amplified by the bad engine mount. We could easily assemble a list of everything you should check and how to do it on a new car. Basically what the mechanic should have done if he could be arsed, but he couldn't. Most of it involves having the car on a jack so get your stands back. I'd start with suspension joints front & rear, look at them carefully, look for loose bolts and then lever against them with a big screwdriver or crowbar. Check the exhaust while your under there. Check the driveshaft universals Check the clutch cable Check the g'box and diff oil leaks. Check the steering when doing the wheel bearings with one wheel up. Shake it left and right looking for slack and any noises. I get someone to swing the steering wheel left & right by varying amounts and speeds while I look underneath. Bounce on each corner and see how the shocks behave. That will tell you the state of the suspension/steering. You don't need a mechanic one these cars, they are dead simple! When you've got the engine mount fixed you can start on the motor... Does it start easily? Plugs set correctly? Plug leads within spec? Points and timing correct? Tappets set? Any leaks in the coolant system? Is the coolant fresh and green? (or pink) Loose bolts/nuts in the manifold system? Oil clean and filter newish? The headlights are crap! They earth back through the dip-switch, a terrible idea. Its not hard to double the brightness, if you are driving at night do it in the future. In the end you can have a car you know everything about and feel confident it will drive to Perth without a problem! Ah fk! A black engine bay! You poor bastard! When you have the motor out in a few years, make sure you paint it white! They paint them black to hide oil leaks, I'd much rather see any leaks and fix them! That battery bracket is not stock either, make sure it holds the battery down firmly. Well, there's enough to do your head in! Have fun! Now, what turn on the electric fan? I assume there is one?? Is there? There's certainly no stock mechanical one. It needs a thermoswitch somewhere to turn it on at 90deg or so, and usually I put them in the top rad hose. We also run a manual switch so you can turn the fan on from the dash.

As I remember it, the old fusewire melts when too many amps go through it. The new RCD circuit breakers compare the positive an negative currents and when they are different it trips out. They do trip out too often when they're old and need replacing. If you have RCDs in the house it would be a short going out through the welder somewhere, or the RCD is old and worn out. Swap the RCD for another one & see. So you've had the motor running without a problem on 12V, and if you run the motor with the cable but no handpiece it drops out?? That suggests a short in the cable somewhere before the handle. The option would be that the motor is crapping out and the RCD can sense that, but a 12V battery doesn't worry and keeps feeding it current.

OK, here is how to use private messages, PMs. I've sent you one, so you just need to find it. So, that motor still has a dud cylinder in #4, and I reckon it will be valves. Still it will run, and it sounds like Manuel needs to learn welding before worrying about motors. He should restore the car in his brother's honour. Certainly I wouldn't scrap the motors, they're not making any more of them!

" issues that involve the starter motor / solenoid" Yes, that sounds like the place to look. Although you could actually start by checking the points and timing, getting the spark to fire at the right time makes it catch first time rather than third try. You'll need feeler gauges, a dwell meter if you're keen, and a timing light. You'll use them all your life. (well, maybe not if we all go electric!) "But i find when i start and stop it continuously the problem just gets worse and worse; " So, temperature related.. Check the earths from motor to chassis and chassis to battery. All must be tight and clean. Then check the +ve to the starter solenoid and the black activation wire on the solenoid. If all are tight and working, then its starter out time. Awkward to get to on a 4K, but you'll learn... The solenoid comes apart with a soldering iron on the wire that sticks out by the bolt terminals, and you can clean up the big contacts inside with a file and put a skinny washer under each of them. This makes up for the copper that has burned away on the contacts over the last 40years. It will let you inspect the teeth on the starter (usually OK) and the teeth on the ring gear that they hit. Take photos.. An auto electrician will check the starter windings, the copper wire loses its resistance and that is temperature dependent. The motor is a throw-away if that's the problem, in the good ol' days someone would rewind it. When it goes "click" quite solidly the solenoid magnet has slammed the starter teeth into the ring gear and simultaneously pushed the copper contacts together over the battery cables. If that is happening correctly then the starter takes over and turns. So the failure to turn can be lack of power going through those contacts, or the teeth jamming so it can't turn. Once you've sorted out the starting you can figure out how to tune it to make it start sharply and run well. They are simple motors and a great way to start modding cars.

Lol! I hope you bought a nice chunky wooden one, those plastic ones are rubbish! Did you factor in the arm of the stock sender unit, it sits away from the hole and measures depth at a different place. Maybe they read the last 10litres.

Now, did Manuel have the throttle held full down when you were cranking?? I've seen people crank it with the throttle closed and wonder why the reading were low. Anyway, now he has a spare motor, he can build the original up, a valve grind would probably do wonders for the compression, although I have a feeling that if you're in Costa Rica the car is probably a rusty and he has no cash! With the internet these days most parts are available, its amazing what you can buy.

I'm sure you have enough experience to look at the crank and decide if it 'will do' with just a new set of bearings. All I did after the oil filter/worn bearings problem was buy a new standard set of bearings and fit them, it was a little side-job while doing head mods. It backfired as the crank seized when I fitted them, because there was an edge of 'dried oil' beside the old bearings and the new bearings were a fraction wider. Lesson learned, always get the crank cleaned ! I expect all Japanese car manuals have been translated in English, and one mistake by the translator would give the world the wrong figures. I ignore the manual and have the hot smaller than the cold, the inlet smaller than the exhaust. As a motor the 4K is very tolerant of tappet gap, and also ignition timing. You can have 10deg extra advance without it worrying the motor, they were build for reliability, not speed!

Ah- These guys list the specs for all K motors as the same, but separate the capacities. (I figure the three of us are all past the age of chasing women, so we have nothing else to do during the day!)

The rule of nine means turning the motor to put one valve on maximum lift, which is easier to see as it lasts a short time because the nose of the cam sits on the follower for a very short time. It doesn't matter which valve you start with, what ever is opening when you start. You set the tappet clearance on the valve that adds up to nine with the one you have on max open. So if you start with valve number 3 on max open, you set tappet number six. Then you turn the motor until another valve is at max open and set the tappet that is adding up to nine with that valve and so on. I don't know what the actual order is, I've only used rule of nine a couple of times. But for the #1 valve being open you set #8, for #2 valve being open you set #7 etc As for 3K and 4K, imagine you're the chief engineer at Toyota and the boss says "we have a bigger Corolla coming out, so we need a motor that's 100cc bigger, and I want it as cheap as possible.." What would you do? Grab a clean sheet of paper? I reckon the chief engineer walks down the 3K parts bins and picks out everything except the crank, which he makes to a 73mm stroke instead of the 66mm. Why change anything else? For the 4K- Oil pump rotor tip clearance 0.002-0.006. max 0.008" Drive rotor to cover 0.001-0.004 max 0.006" Outer rotor to pump body 0.004-0.006 max 0.008" Here's a handy page from the manual...