altezzaclub

Take the dizzy out, turn it one tooth and put it back in. One way or the other will get you in the 10deg timing range, and even if you turn it two teeth it won't worry it. Just play with it until you get it where you want it. While you have the cap off the dizzy, suck on the vac advance tube and make sure the dizzy base plate turns. If its jammed it is likely rust under the base plate where there are three ball-bearings it rotates on. Maybe your electronic setup runs on a different method, but it should rotate under vacuum. Make yourself a series of timing marks with whiteout correction pen around the crank pulley. When you have the motor running check the advance against it every 500rpm and generate a timing curve. That curve is generated by the centrifugal weights under the baseplate, and that's the ignition advance that is important. I've got a topic about it here- Most race cars disconnect the vac advance with Webers. The vac advance is just to advance the timing advance at cruise speeds for emission purposes, the moment you open the throttle to overtake someone it retards back to the centrifugal weight's setting, and then when you lift off and cruise again the vac advance sucks the timing up a few degrees to make sure the burn is better in a lean cylinder. So just disconnect it and see how you go. 4Ks can run with a lot more than the factory advance, they seem quite resistant to pinking, but too much advance does cost power. The whole reason for it is that flame propagation in the cylinder takes place at a constant speed, so to get the fuel burnt before the exhaust valve opens you have to light the fire earlier as piston speed goes up. Obviously from this it depends on compression, throttle opening, points gap, fuel octane, cam timing... there is no 'right' answer between different motors. It sounds like a fun motor! Can you balance the Webers yourself? Its not hard once you know the tricks.

I haven't heard of any available Ben, but I can check our local wrecker on Friday. Do you need the whole throttle body or just that throttle position sensor above??

Just blank it off with a plate Banjo, its warm enough up there to make the cold idle un-needed. Its adjustable if you want to go to the trouble, you could make it hardly by-pass any air at all, or none. The main problem is the ECU can't run a stepper motor for an idle control. Just that one advance in electronics simplified so many problems in an engine, Josh just turns the key and the racing car engine fires up and idles at 1250rpm perfectly. What do you reckon we are looking at? The resistance of the TPS? Not much reason for Toyota to change that. Size of the throttle plate? The 4AGE changed the orientation of the actuator arm between the big port & the small port, but you can move that around.

Anyone know if that throttle body was on another car of the same age? An early Camry or something? Toyota were keen to use the same parts over a wide range...

Its a lot of years since I had to do it, but yes, you can change the sump gasket with the motor in the car, and it is a hard job. You will need to lift the motor upwards, I used a jack on an engine mount, and it is still very difficult to get the back part of the sump forward between the oil pickup inside and the cross-member outside. You soon run into the limits of the radiator hose lengths, or the exhaust hitting the floor, and in the end its easier to pull the motor out! Getting the motor out is very easy compared to any other car. For just changing the gasket, once you lift the motor a bit you can drop the sump an inch or two and get the old gasket out, then drive yourself insane cleaning the block and the sump with the cross-member in the way, and finally fit the new gasket. Pull the four studs out of the bottom of the timing cover, the ones that hold the sump on and stop it sliding forward easily. Replace them with bolts ready for the next time you have to do the same job. Good luck!

There's a used one on Ebay for over $300... I reckon you could make one cheaper!! You don't need one as I changed the seal on my T-series Celica diff a stack of years back and I don't own one. The trickiest bit was making a jig to measure the friction in the bearing as its only a few inch.lbs torque. I had a measured weight on a piece of string hanging off a little flat bar bolted to the flange and sitting out horizontally.. This is probably the same manual you have-

There's a range of diffs you can fit, although the leaf-spring ones will need 5-link mounts welded on. I expect all of them will need a new driveshaft-diff end. The 5-linked Celica T-series diffs bolt straight in, that's what I use. There are F and G Toyota diffs off heavier cars, they will need mounts, and really, anything out of a Hilux or van that is designed for carrying more weight. Nissan Skyline diffs too. Along the way you will find them getting too wide, it depends on your car use, so they need to be shortened, which makes the conversion quite expensive. More modern vans use 5-links and come with disc brakes, I've run a tape over a couple of those. You'll just have to spend a few hours at the wreckers with a tape and a camera..

In a KE70 it comes off the coil negative, the black wire going to the distributor. There is a dedicated wire for it in the stock loom, even though the standard KE70 didn't have a tacho. You might find it in your wiring, or run a fresh wire from the coil -ve.

It should look like this I believe. The little layer of oil left in the sump was OK according to Toyota

January & back into it! That custom tray has finally left the workshop, it goes on a Patrol that is 12years old and never been registered. Someone bought a pair of them and kept on to do up, but never got around to it, and the current owner bought it to do the same. So its never even been dealer-prepared, it went straight to a farm on a delivery truck. The Evo5 is getting close, the firewall is in and awaiting sealing- The fuel system is done- All the work is in the wiring- We started on the Subaru again last week, and this week should see that cage finished. Then its Cake time!

I'm with Colin... Many people lower their car without thinking about the bump stops at the back. I reckon the best is to take the springs & shocks off and jack the diff up so you can mark where it hits the body and measure how much smaller you can make the bump stops. Then get or make thinner and softer bump stops so you still have something to slow the diff down before it smacks the body and dents it. The driveshaft often grinds into the tunnel as the diff nose rises under acceleration, another one to watch. There's always room to lower a car designed for 140kg of passengers in the back seat plus 70kg of luggage in the boot, and for the same reason you can run softer springs. If you do lower it with smaller bump stops, make sure the shocks compress more than the minimum distance, you don't want the shocks bottoming out first. I reckon it looks great like it is!

Well, things slowed down over the month, Josh had a job that actually paid money and the Evo5 was just getting bigger and bigger! The body was sprayed except for doors & guards, and the re-assembly commenced. Its actually very difficult to build a car without scratching the new paintwork.. Josh's dad is onto the wiring with his bro & I've been making the 7-piece rear firewall. Motor and mechanicals are mainly in, front & rear suspension, fuel & brake setups.. ..and the first Whiteline Tarmac Sprint is next week! So, in reality we will roll in the Evo3 gravel car on Monday for a check-over, and take that to Sydney on Thursday. Of course with the Troll being used as a test-bed for the tray we're building we figured it was a good time to fix the head gasket leak. Its now got a new head on and with a few more days work it will be ready for a Christmas break. Josh welded up a lot of the spotwelds holding the tray together, but then it was just too tempting as flat surface! So... Evo5 finished for the Whiteline events early next year, finish the tray, finish the Subaru cage sitting in the back shed and THEN onto KE70s!! (this is getting slower than Project Binky and not as entertaining!)

Any chance fuel from the return line gets out under the cap?? Have you ever checked how much fuel comes out of the return line? When I did I was surprised it was such a flood. Although I expect fumes from the vent pipe are the most likely culprit. Your diagram seems fine, vent the system to a charcoal canister and burn it. Would you be better to vent it from the where your current return is, and put the return in the port you're planning the vent on?? From taking the fuel cap off at the gas station, do you think the tank is under vacuum or pressure?? I've often felt its a rush of vapour out of the tank, not a rush of air into it. I put it down to the return line feeding heated fuel back into the tank so its thermal expansion, but I'd like second opinions. I'm running a different setup, the Ke70 fuel tank under the floor is more a pain, but I still smell raw fuel now and then.

True, true. (note to self- include manual when buried with The Girls KE70..)

You really think you own Windows 10 when you buy it?? No, you just own a licence to use it, subject to a lawyer's feast of conditions.. Cars will get to be the same, touch something and your warranty is void and the car won't start. (or be illegal to take on the road) Imagine self-drive cars being fiddled with by backyard mechanics! I'm amazed they even allow electric cars after so many have caught fire and can't be put out. If we converted a Falcon 50years ago, sold electrical conversion kits, then had 4 or 5 catch fire and be inextinguishable, we'd be in jail! Its only the push by the global warmists for electrics that even allows them to exist. There'll be some big changes, especially in motorsport, when it comes to modding cars.

There's only one astounding 4K conversion.. This one! But it shows that you can bore a 4K block out 6mm!! Lighten & knife-edge the crank, fit a 4AGE head and pull 9000rpm! That block is tough! As for running a motor in, I reckon get it running and take it driving, just general driving without letting the revs drop low enough to make it lug, or booting it so its pulling max power up into the rev range... just keep it lightly loaded driving around for half an hour while you watch the temp gauge. Then again, in South Africa Toyota took the cars off the end of the assembly line straight to the dyno room and ran them briefly at full power before parking them. Who knows?

Well, I've never driven a 3K, but Wiki says- 3K, 1166cc, torque 67-69 4K, 1290cc, torque 72 5K, 1486cc, torque 85lb.ft The 4K is 10% greater in capacity, and the 5K 15% greater again. You can see that in the torque, the 68 to 72 (6%) is less than a worn motor to a more-worn motor, while the jump to 85 (18%) is noticeable. So not much between a 3K and a 4K. You could warm the 3K up to make it faster, but that is all revs to get power, rather than getting any more torque. You could slip a turbo or supercharger onto it, but if you had that much money for fun you could fit a 4AGE. Even a cam, a head job, twin carbs and extractor, and a bigger exhaust will add up in dollars. A 5K would be a great choice, but there aren't that many old forkhoists or vans around now. The Y motors would be a close fit too, also out of vans etc, and they're out to 2L with 120lb.ft of torque. Price up rings and bearings on the 3K, do yourself a head job if the valves and seats are OK, get it skimmed and look for a cam with more lift but not much more duration. I can't think of a cheaper way for a little more grunt unless you're a welder who can make his own turbo manifold. All that stuff I did to The Girls KE70 made it a lovely car to drive, although fitting the 4AGE to it was chalk and cheese. Not so much faster, but it doesn't notice hills. Oh, and #4 cylinder wasn't doing any work, it shouldn't be any blacker than the others. Was the gasket blown between #2 & #3, the usual place when a head warps? or was it a problem at #4, the area where the motor gets really hot due to shit in the block? Banjo has a lovely solution for that, he made a bypass system that moved water around the back of the head more efficiently. The water holes at the front of the motor are blocked off by the gasket to force water to circulate to the back, so Toyota became aware of this problem early on. You know, you could cheat by fitting a 5-speed box and lowering the diff ratio.. Quicker acceleration & up the hills, and let 5th drop the revs for cruising.

What Dave said!! ..and remember 56% more power will be more than 56% more heat, so get an alloy radiator as well. I expect you'll sink the same amount of money again into the whole project, the new ECU will soak up a lot. The Haltech Sprint 500 is $1200 plus, & tuners don't work for less than $1000. As Dave said, buy the ECU and learn how to use it. Check the sales conditions very carefully, if it blows up you may or may not get a refund. It doesn't run a boost controller by the look, so it boosts as hard as it can and the BOV on the inlet controls the pressure going in. A great way to get power, but they radiate massive heat straight into the back of the radiator and then into the sump as the red-hot exhaust goes under it. With the Mitsi Evos we build for gravel and tarmac rallies, controlling the heat is the biggest headache. If you think your car runs hot now....

Those plugs will fit a whole lot of options the Japanese have but your car doesn't. You'll need to web search a wiring diagram and look at the colours of the wires. Chase the over-heating quite soon, its easy enough to cook a motor over the summer. When does it overheat? and how easily does it cool down again?? Fan come on OK? fan only does something until about 20kph, after that the airflow from moving does the work. Short out the sensor straight to earth & make sure the gauge goes to full hot. Start it cold with the rad cap off and check the gauge when it first gets warm from sticking your finger in it. Check the gauge again when its too hot to put your finger in.. Obviously a thermometer is the best tool, but use what you have. At least you know the gauge shows 'warm' or whatever when the thermostat opens, and hot for your hand is about 55-60deg. That's some sort of range or temperature.If you have a thermometer and find that halfway on the gauge is about 90deg, that's fine, and 3/4 gauge is worth worrying about. Alternatively, look up the resistance of the sensor and measure it with a multimeter, both hot and cold. If it is in spec then the sensor is fine. If the gauge reads correctly at those temps the gauge is OK. Then check the thermostat in a pan of boiling water to make sure it opens right up, or just replace it. Pull the rad out and flush it backwards. Let us know how you go-

As well as what Dave said, tip the block on its side and scrape all the rust and gunge out of the water jackets, particularly around number 4 cylinder. The slow water flow at the back of the engine means the rubbish piles up around there and causes overheating. Clean ALL the stud holes out with a rag on a screwdriver, then with a rag soaked in petrol on a screwdriver, then with a bolt of the same thread that has a wedge cut out of it with a grinder or hacksaw. That will clean the threads out. I usually spray it with Brake-clean aerosol after that and wipe them out again with a rag. Make sure you clean all the bolts and nuts, and oil them when assembling. The manifolds need a straight-edge along them too, the differential expansion of the alloy & cast iron distorts them over the years and leaking exhaust gaskets result. What I did is here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

Well, they did the job OK.. That's all we put in the Purple People Eater for Steve, but Josh uses them to make the body rigid. The speeds are higher these days, acceleration is much better and WRC is just astounding to watch, but looking at Racing Fail or Chopito each Friday night shows that cage damage is pretty rare even in some big crashes. We bought a wrecked Evo3 that had been imported as a rally car from Japan and hit a tree on the front driver's corner really hard. The cage broke as the tree came into the steering dept, and you could see the rust in the tube. The body was a rustbucket with fibreglass over the floor to hide it, I'm amazed the crew survived. It doesn't seem to take much to make a car strong enough to survive a big impact. One day I'll measure the torsional rigidity before and after fitting a cage, and then after putting in the gussets that attach the cage to the body. Up the windscreen A pillars, across the rear seat floor, & on the B pillars.

Good grief! November already! Well, we got sort-of half a cage in each of the Subbie and the Evo5, but decided we needed to get the Evo5 ready for Whiteline. Then Josh had a spell of driving the big Kenworth, and I've only just got back down there this week. The underside has been cleaned and painted- The rear of the cage is finished, it mounts onto the rear suspension towers- The front is in place. You can't put your fingers anywhere between the cage and the bodywork, it is jammed in there- An hour ago we tweaked the last gussets into place- So there's just some welding up of the tacked gussets here and there, and the cage is finally done. No orders for a MiG cage please! The two bars heading forwards go through the firewall and weld onto the front suspension towers, so its end to end.. The car should be stiff! Then it heads out the back shed for painting while we tackle the Subbie, then get the Evo5 running for Whiteline, and FINALLY back onto the CAKE!

You'll find that question asked a few times in the forums. Sadly the answer is that seeing the 4AGE was available, no-one bothered to do much for the poor old 4AFE. How much do you want to spend? New air filter system? Quad throttle bodies? Extractors and larger free-flow exhaust? I don't know who will grind the cams for them, but there's that to do. Really you could look at pulling the head off and porting it, like any petrol motor. I'd say, first find out what holds the motor back. Somewhere must be someone who has found the weak link & made it better.

Aluminium is the only household product worth recycling, it takes a lot of electricity to turn bauxite into metal so once you have it you make sure it stays as a metal. Copper would be the next, lead, and the contents of the catalytic converters. Steel is OK in bulk, and then the rest of the cardboard, plastics etc only exist because of public money subsidies. The first part of the Save the Planet with taxpayer money that is still going on in Glasgow. I can't see much advantage is hammering those batteries to bits unless some components are water soluble. You end up with such a mess it makes separating compounds more difficult. You could see the typical mess on the floor in one photo, so I expect they're not flammable when powdered! I don't know what happens to the crushed cars from the wrecker, they don't strip anything so to get the organics out you would need to hammer-mill the entire car and burn the result. That would get rid of the cardboard, the paint, the grease/oil & the plastics, leaving copper wires, aluminium components and steel as pieces all mixed together. The wrecker said after 2007 the bottom dropped out and the Chinese just emptied the ships straight into the harbour to get them moving again. Massive pollution either way, but like any of the third world, someone got paid a lot of cash to ruin an environment he didn't care about. Yeah, I wouldn't sleep above an electric car on charge.. just look at the airliners with the batteries in the tail to replace the APU.

hmm.. tricky.. you're talking about the performance-killers that Australians unbolt and throw away the moment they buy a Corolla. No smog testing here. He just said the EGR wasn't working, so it may be 'not working' by not opening even if the diaphragm is fine. So if it jammed shut the car will go better than ever! ..and I'm sure your one car in umteen million emitting more smog than they like won't kill the planet! If it is stuck open I expect you'd notice a poor idle, but if its stuck shut it might not make enough difference to see. That might be why it fails at low speed and not higher up, usually at low speed the vacuum would open the EGR to let exhaust back into the intake, but the lack of vac at more normal speeds would see it closed. Here's a generic sort of trouble-shooting. Given the different types of EGR valves, it is always best to follow the troubleshooting procedures detailed in the service manual, however, there are a few generic steps that can help to pinpoint diagnosis: Read any fault codes on electronically controlled EGR valves using a diagnostic tool. Check that all vacuum lines and electrical connections are connected and positioned correctly. Use a vacuum gauge to check the vacuum supply hose for vacuum at 2000 to 2500 rpm. No vacuum at normal operating temperatures would suggest a loose hose, a blocked or faulty ported vacuum switch or solenoid or a faulty vacuum amplifier/pump. Check the vacuum solenoid while engine is running. On electronically controlled EGR valves, activate the solenoid with a scan tool and check the vacuum at end of pipe. If the solenoid does not open when energized, is stuck in the open or closed position or has a corroded electrical connection, loose wire or bad ground, EGR operation will be affected. Identify the root cause before replacing. If possible, check the movement of the valve stem at 1500 to 2000 rpm. The valve stem should move if the valve is functioning correctly – if not, and there’s vacuum, there’s a fault. Apply vacuum directly to the EGR valve using either a hand vacuum pump or scan tool depending on the type of EGR valve. If there is no change in idle quality, then either the EGR valve is faulty or the passages are completely restricted. If the engine idles rough or stalls, the problem is being caused by a malfunctioning control system. Remove the EGR valve and check for carbon build up. Where possible, remove any carbon, being careful not to contaminate the diaphragm. Inspect the EGR passageway in the manifold for clogging and clean if required. But a good one is apparently to reduce the ignition timing a couple of degrees. See here- https://community.cartalk.com/t/ca-emissions-test-fail-hi-nox-at-low-speed/32210