altezzaclub

They bolt straight in, but if you feel the performance is pretty dull afterwards you will have to sort out the weights and springs under the base plate. There's a writeup here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/4/#comments and sorting out the springs is here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594 Overall, its a great idea and much more reliable over time.

"If however, everything is dead," This! Tell us what works and what doesn't and see if it can be narrowed down. The car is divided into circuits, so have you lost all of them or only some? I've only had KE70s, so have lots on those. Toyota often have fusible links on the battery positive side, sort of giant fuses. Really its just a particular wire in a rubber casing that blows apart if it gets too much current. Later ones look more like proper fuses in plastic casings.

Luca, mine is still an open diff, but we have two KE70s up on the farm with LSDs, both OS Gikens. Expensive, but very good and long-lasting. You should be able to find OS G or Kaaz or Cusco for the AE86 diff or the Celica, they are all T-series. The F is heavier, as you say, but if you want to be a trail-blazer, check out the vans at your local wrecker...

"a small hippie town in New Zealand" What!!? They still have them? ..and no getting into all those Jap imports? Don't you want a classic Honda Civic 4WD? I suppose a side-effect of cheap Jap imports was driving out all the old cars on the market.

Yep, Celica T series are a bolt-in, check out The Girls KE70. Also head to the wrecker & look at van diffs, they are stronger than a KE70 but lighter than a 4WD. All sorts these days, discs on them, 5-links or leaf, wider than a KE70, 20mm would be good. As Dave says, you want it as light as you can for the job you're doing.

"i had an AFR of 12.0, mid range revs was about 13.0 and high revs about 13.5 " What were you using to read that? Lamba gauge fitted? This guy reckons that driving around casually in closed loop mode DOESN'T use the AFC, but at wide open throttle it just ignores the oxy sensor and reads the AFC chart. "Basically what the S-AFC does is alter the voltage the ECU receives from the MAP sensor. This causes the air/fuel mixture to either go leaner (-) or richer (+). You can adjust in increments of 2%. You can fine-tune the mixture at different RPM points (800rpm, 2400rpm, 4000rpm, 5600rpm, 7200rpm). The ECU won't use the values of the AFC while in closed loop mode (under 80% throttle). But when you step on it (when racing), the ECU goes into open loop mode, ignoring the O2 sensor and only relying on the MAP sensor for data. So the Gen1 AFC is only usable under what (Wide open throttle) situations. " https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/apexi-safc.145432/ Which means no, it won't help your AFR anywhere in the rev range unless you have the throttle wide open, not what I expected at all. However, you might get a wide-band controller- Wideband controllers with simulated narrowband outputs are on the web, they read a wideband sensor and send an adjusted narrowband voltage to the ECU . I wonder why ITBs make it rich, I thought they would flow a lot more air and lean it out.

I put mine under the intake system in the engine bay, there's a lot of room there. The lift pump just runs into the stock lines, a small surge tank and the main pump & filter are close to the inlet manifold. The only piece of high-pressure fuel line as about 30cm long. At 100kph you're using 7L of fuel per hr, so 120ml per minute, or 2ml per second.. How long do you want your surge tank to run the motor? 10seconds around a corner when the lift pump can't pick up the last bit of fuel? That's a 20ml surge tank! How about 45seconds going up the Moonbi mountain range with the last fuel in the back of the tank? Well, a minute is 120ml of fuel. Most people install giant surge tanks they will never use, so work out what you want it to do and then pick a size to use. I re-purposed a Subaru fuel filter canister that was free at the wrecker- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/11/#comments

Buy a reverse-current kit off Ebay and fit it... Toyota has power from the relay to the bulbs and back to the dipswitch, this burns out the column switch eventually. The kit uses one relay between the 'on' switch and the dip switch, and this works a second relay between battery and light bulbs. Much brighter lights. Check out- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Saying that, I've had your problem recently with the Ebay kit I've just described, turned out to be a dirty connection on the relay earth. It has been in there quite a lot of years now. Otherwise, replace that stock relay and see if it fixes it. One-finger typing as I await the second half-hour on the ph to Telstra, they've given up playing their ad for the Telstra app and are just playing an endless music loop... T'was 45minutes last time, I swear they punish people who refuse to use the web. Fking pathetic company!

Grab vernier calipers or put both manifolds face-down on a flat surface and grab feeler gauges. Measure the thickness of inlet and exhaust tabs where the washers press them onto the head and put a half-washer or bit of wire on the thin half... anything to make the washer push down evenly on the two manifolds. I had a set of washers with thin half-spring-washers brazed onto them.

The Girl is in Cape Town for a cuzzies wedding- First thing she sees.. Being South African, it will have a T motor & box, they didn't use the Ks.

We're seeing more of these flush pins on rally cars, still a very positive lock and need to be carefully installed to line up. Usually you have to cut the ribs under the bonnet to get the body of the lock in place. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272689133211 https://www.autoware.com.au/shop/ford-mustang/exterior-ford-mustang/exterior-accessories/aerocatch-plus-flush-bonnet-latch-pin-kit/ The plain old radiator bar mounted ones are still the most foolproof, you just need to remember to put the pins in! https://www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/buy/speco-chrome-bonnet-hood-lock-pin-kit-clip-lanyard/121540 The sliding version of those with the trapped pin tend to wear out. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/saas-hood-pin-kit---silver/SPO2459321.html

You don't want to vent the bonnet? A rearwards facing one right above the carb that sucks air out when you drive and the lets hot air rise and go out when you stop. I'm working on one for the Evo3 as we suffer heat problems at the radiator from oil cooler and intercooler being in front, and there's no place for hot air to exit around the back of the bonnet. Evos already have vents facing backwards at the front, but with sump guard on its still not enough open area to get good air flow out from the engine bay.

Those tubes are used on the early Great Wall utes, which had Toyota motors. They are much cheaper than from Toyota if you can find them at a Great Wall dealer. The starting point for the idle mixture screw is turn it right in until it gently seats, then turn it out one and a half turns. A motor with nothing wrong should be within a 1/4 turn of that. With a warm motor at idle you should be able to turn the screw in and out by 1/4turns and pick the smoothest, fastest idle with the screw furthest in.

"Once you've driven with that "cool white" light out front, You can never go back to that "yellowie" light, again." I'm not so sure.. Having fitted an LED light bar to the KE70 for the 40Km country drive home at night, I find the reflective markers show up much more, the highway signs are blindingly bright and there is a big pool of very white light on the road for about 30M. What there is NOT, is any illumination 100m and more ahead, which is what I wanted. The LED bar is a 'spotlight' type, not a floodlight type too. LEDs literally work according to the one inch reflectors behind them, and having 50 one inch reflectors does not throw light a long way. I'm thinking of swapping it for a pair of 6" pencil-beam spotlights. So, great for close-in lighting, they throw light in all direction, up, down and sideways, but no good for distance.

That's unsurprising Banjo, LEDs are very high in blue light and low in yellow/orange. Even the longer-wavelength 'warm' LEDs are still more blue than the old tungstens. Horses for courses really, they probably don't put out enough of the red end of the spectrum to make the dye worthwhile either. That will filter out all of the blue end & drop the overall lumens. They use a phosphor coating on household bulbs to drop blue wavelengths into more orange for a white light.

If you run into idle problems when you have it running, try a different air filter setup, especially lengthening the tube before the MAF sensor. Quite a few guys had troubles with aftermarket air filters like that, the airflow was too disturbed for the sensor. One guy filled the tube with plastic straws to reduce the turbulence.

"Any crappy old 2TG is going to cost a shitload to buy, and 5 shitloads to rebuild." Yep! Always the problem.. For a show car you would use something old, but for a daily I'd look at the newest you can. The 3SGE setup is 20years old already, so that's at least 250,000km on the motor and gearbox. It's a tall motor, I'll tell you more when we finally get this one fitted into Steve's AE86. I'm leaning towards an MX5 motor & 6-speed for the next setup in The Girls KE70, that 4AGE won't last forever. Do you put $4K into rebuilding an old motor and another $2k or $3k into a gearbox rebuild, or buy $6K worth of newer but used motor? A lovely option, even better to drive, would be the dead stock setup from my son's Fiesta ST turbo, they bolt on to a RWD gearbox, or my daughter's i30 N-line, both turbo 1.6L. The hard thing is making a conversion reliable, as Parrot said. Leave it all dead stock with all the stock ECU setup..

Well, its still crawling along... The Evo5 is fine, Josh has won 2 of the 4 rounds of the Whiteline Tarmac Sprints so far this season, one round left. The Evo3 lunched the motor on the practice day for Coffs big two-day rally, but the replacement seems ok in a couple of gymkhanas and its first 2023 rally is this coming weekend. The AE86... Ah well, halfway through Batemans Bay it tossed a rod out both sides of the block, and it's sitting out the back of the workshop currently. We have a couple of cages to build first, an RX7 & a Datto 1600, and then it gets new, lower, seat mounts (the floors are cut out already) and a 3SGE instead of a replacement 4AGE. This was going to be the motor for the Orange Cake, so that project is a bit undecided. We still want to tub the back end of the KE70 sedan with coilovers and equal-length arms, but first we need the AE86 running and reliable. It should be an interesting year...

I've shortened a few over the years, usually on rally cars, I"m not sure about the legality of chopping up stock bumpers. You can tuck them back against the body quite well, just pull the plastic off and re-shape the steel & mounts, then use a grinder to size the plastic to suit. I never took any photos unfortunately. What would you do with a Skyline's width? Cut the bumper in the middle to make it narrower, or are they close enough? Its all from a very sad time in motoring history due to the Yanks and their 5mph crash test. A lot of lovely cars were ruined by having to graft on large ugly bumpers for a decade until they integrated the whole idea with the body. Aha! Found one-

Chase up Lloyd Smith in Tassie, he built a UZ one a decade back. If you can get hold of him he will know the whole story, I think he built the complete car and sorted it.

I usually find the driver's side balljoint is the good one & the passenger's side the loose one. The road edge just hammers the suspension on that one side, a result of Aussie's crap roads. They are difficult to measure in place, but if you take the wheel off and put a block of wood or something under the hub to support it at about ride height, you can slip a big screwdriver in the LCA/strut area and see the movement from the loose balljoint. With the weight going through the strut onto the wood, the LCA is pretty much floating free. Use the screwdriver to push the LCA down, the jack to push it up until it takes weight, & lever down again. There shouldn't be any movement in there at all. I've changed both mine, some years back now, and the new ones were tight but smooth.

Yeah, I wouldn't be happy about the amount of distance the rubber has to swivel if it was locked by the crush tube, it seems a long way. The 5 arms in the rear suspension of a KE70 have the same bushes, and in the front LCAs, its why you never do them up tight until they are at ride height. I think they used them as they don't wear like the tapered bushes, they hold steady until the rubber fractures and then they are a throwaway. Because they are vulcanised into the metal bush the tolerances are smaller & more accurate.

The one pictured doesn't move on the shaft, it relies on the rubber distorting to turn, so gets done up tight on the crush tube. Others have two tapered bushes that do swivel on the shaft and have a castellated nut, although I can't swear to Toyota following the other Japanese manufacturers in the 1970s. I think I've seen swivelling bushes on Celicas.

I did drag a 3SGE out at the wreckers (A Celica fwd one) for a young guy in Walcha to put in his Corona. He had it in but the Webers were not working in it last time I saw it, I listed what to do but I don't know if he ever got it running. The 3S is a very tall motor, you'd want to be sure before you started the job. Sorry I can't be any more help. Ah- make sure the gearbox fits too, I'm sure the J160 is too wide at the bell housing. I expect you'll need a W box.

Check what tyres you can buy before getting the rims. You will find good 13" are not so available these days, and 14" are also shutting down. I like the 13" look myself, 13x7 would be great. The Escort guys reckon 195/45 x13 for the handling, 205/60x13 for the looks.