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Everything posted by altezzaclub
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"or the ignition barrel, has gone faulty." Yeah, could be. The wiring diagram shows the wire to the coil on cranking to be separate to the wire to the starter solenoid. If the contacts in the ignition barrel are burnt out for the coil wire, it will crank and crank but not start until the key is released and it catches on the 'run' wiring. The next time that contact might work and it starts perfectly. "My car using electronic distributor not contact point version..so do I still need use ballast resistor?" Check if that Bosch coil you bought is a GT40 or a GT40R. The R means it needs a ballast resistor, the other Bosch GT40 doesn't. Did the moving baseplate of the dizzy move easily and look lubricated when you had the dizzy apart? They do get seized up over the years and stop the ignition advancing correctly.
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KE70s run a 9V coil, so the ballast resistor cuts the voltage back to 9V when the car is driving. However when starting there is extra wiring to by-pass the ballast resistor and feed full power straight to the coil. With the starter motor working the battery voltage drops to 9V, so the coil works perfectly. As you let the ignition key go back the wiring goes through the ballast resistor again to run the motor at 9V. 12V will burn the coil out eventually. You might have a fault in the wire that was connected to the ballast resistor and now that has been deleted, who knows where that wire goes? The red wire goes from the ignition key 'Start' position to the coil positive. The 'run' wire is the black/orange one that goes to the ballast resistor. Follow those two wires and let us know what you find.
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Start a new thread with a couple of photos Rory, there's a lot you can do with these cars. Are the rims & lowering just for cool looks or are you after handling performance? Are you running coilovers on the rear shock mounts?
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A year or two back I bought a new fuel sender unit off Ebay, but the thing only reads zero to half a tank, even when filled up. Actually, when I got it the reading was half to full, so it ran out of fuel at half, I could move its zero point OK, but the range is too small. I figure its for the flat tank in a wagon, so if you get a sedan one by accident we can swap!
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There's no wires, they are all on a sheet of plastic... I kid you not! I assume you have seen it when you checked the 3 plugs at the back. If you want to pull it all out the instructions are in this topic about changing auto to manual gearboxes from years ago- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/58879-how-to-convert-an-auto-to-a-manual-ke70/ and a wiring diagram is here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 Red/Green supply the clock, yellow/red and yellow/green the fuel gauge and temperature. See how you go, it might be a bad earth, or separate problems, or a need for a review of all the wiring.
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It would be good if that solves it. I expect the electronic unit has a diode in it so power can only flow one way, whereas the old coil wouldn't worry.
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Well, if the positive coil terminal is on the left of the photo, they are the wrong way around. They will run with the polarity reversed, but I hear it wears the spark plugs out strangely as the spark is jumping the wrong way. Run it for 6months and let us know... Ah- brown wire is probably tacho, that runs off the same side as the black. Other option would be a capacitor to stop spark noise in the AM radio, but it would be just beside the coil.
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I used the YZZN2 in the Altezza, the 4K and the 4AGE. The KE70 had a startup rattle when we bought it, and a filter with no non-return valve. I pulled the motor and replaced the bearings once, and decided to use Toyota filters after that. Just inspect each brand of filter and remember what the quality of the threads and how fine the machining looks. Some are absolute rubbish!
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If you run into that hose problem ever again, just stop straight away and let it cool down enough to take the rad cap off. Put it back on loosely enough that it wont hold any pressure, then just tape over the split hose and drive it home. So long as it doesn't go over 100deg it will be fine running with zero pressure in the system, and I always carry a roll of duct tape in the boot. I see the wagon has the ever-present rust in the rear 1/4 window, how's the sedan?
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How's the starter motor & solenoid? It may just be worn out electrically. The wiring diagram above will show you which minimal wires you need to start it, as Banjo says, but it is a lot of hours chasing wires once someone has been cutting and replacing stuff. I've done several now and am looking at another to upgrade the ECU in my car, but it looks like a daunting task! There are a lot of wires you don't need, the looms included a range of add-ons that were never fitted here such as anti-pollution gear needed in California.
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Headlights Hazard And Horn Not Working
altezzaclub replied to 19914afc's topic in TExx Corolla Discussion
If you hover over his name you will find he last visited here in 2015... Search the web for a 1970s Corolla wiring diagram and it will show you how those circuits are powered, as distinct from the others that only work on 'Accessories' or '"Ignition". On a KE70 one of the three fusible links just does headlights, horn and hazard lights, they are powered all the time. Its a red & black wire from the battery and each circuit has its own fuse. The stop lights have a different circuit, maybe it changed in a KE70. Any wiring diagram is better than none- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 -
Pull out the starter motor and check the solenoid connections. You can un-solder the +ve wire that goes into the solenoid and take off the end-cap, then look at the two contacts and the copper bar for erosion. I've put a washer under each contact before, that puts them closer to the bar and gives them a few more years. Check starter motor brushes and the burn on the commutator as well, it sounds like worn-out brushes. I've put a wiring diagram up here- https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0 and although you can't absolutely guarantee the colours it will give you a good idea of what each wire is meant to do. That's a 'dry' coil, I've never seen one on a KE70, much too modern. Obviously it runs with it, and it looks like it is running on the 9V ballast resistor. It won't affect your poor starting anyway. Photos 2 and 3 are stock, the loom in the car did a lot of extra things that Aussie never fitted. The first photo shows wiring that on my car does the engine loom, oil pressure and water temp, and the red wires are usually lights. The previous guy must have run other circuits if everything on your car works.
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Contact Point To Electronic Distrubutor
altezzaclub replied to knibusu's topic in General Discussion
They bolt straight in, but if you feel the performance is pretty dull afterwards you will have to sort out the weights and springs under the base plate. There's a writeup here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/4/#comments and sorting out the springs is here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/49927-how-to-fix-your-brand-new-ke-motorsport-electronic-distributor/#comment-511594 Overall, its a great idea and much more reliable over time. -
"If however, everything is dead," This! Tell us what works and what doesn't and see if it can be narrowed down. The car is divided into circuits, so have you lost all of them or only some? I've only had KE70s, so have lots on those. Toyota often have fusible links on the battery positive side, sort of giant fuses. Really its just a particular wire in a rubber casing that blows apart if it gets too much current. Later ones look more like proper fuses in plastic casings.
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KE70/AE71 Differential Upgrade options?
altezzaclub replied to LucaKE's topic in AExx Corolla Discussion
Luca, mine is still an open diff, but we have two KE70s up on the farm with LSDs, both OS Gikens. Expensive, but very good and long-lasting. You should be able to find OS G or Kaaz or Cusco for the AE86 diff or the Celica, they are all T-series. The F is heavier, as you say, but if you want to be a trail-blazer, check out the vans at your local wrecker... -
What's going on around here?
altezzaclub replied to B.L.Z.BUB's topic in Rollaclub Social (Off-Topic)
"a small hippie town in New Zealand" What!!? They still have them? ..and no getting into all those Jap imports? Don't you want a classic Honda Civic 4WD? I suppose a side-effect of cheap Jap imports was driving out all the old cars on the market. -
Yep, Celica T series are a bolt-in, check out The Girls KE70. Also head to the wrecker & look at van diffs, they are stronger than a KE70 but lighter than a 4WD. All sorts these days, discs on them, 5-links or leaf, wider than a KE70, 20mm would be good. As Dave says, you want it as light as you can for the job you're doing.
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"i had an AFR of 12.0, mid range revs was about 13.0 and high revs about 13.5 " What were you using to read that? Lamba gauge fitted? This guy reckons that driving around casually in closed loop mode DOESN'T use the AFC, but at wide open throttle it just ignores the oxy sensor and reads the AFC chart. "Basically what the S-AFC does is alter the voltage the ECU receives from the MAP sensor. This causes the air/fuel mixture to either go leaner (-) or richer (+). You can adjust in increments of 2%. You can fine-tune the mixture at different RPM points (800rpm, 2400rpm, 4000rpm, 5600rpm, 7200rpm). The ECU won't use the values of the AFC while in closed loop mode (under 80% throttle). But when you step on it (when racing), the ECU goes into open loop mode, ignoring the O2 sensor and only relying on the MAP sensor for data. So the Gen1 AFC is only usable under what (Wide open throttle) situations. " https://www.driftworks.com/forum/threads/apexi-safc.145432/ Which means no, it won't help your AFR anywhere in the rev range unless you have the throttle wide open, not what I expected at all. However, you might get a wide-band controller- Wideband controllers with simulated narrowband outputs are on the web, they read a wideband sensor and send an adjusted narrowband voltage to the ECU . I wonder why ITBs make it rich, I thought they would flow a lot more air and lean it out.
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Fuel Pump / Serge Tank Relocation Ideas ??
altezzaclub replied to MichealM's topic in AExx Corolla Discussion
I put mine under the intake system in the engine bay, there's a lot of room there. The lift pump just runs into the stock lines, a small surge tank and the main pump & filter are close to the inlet manifold. The only piece of high-pressure fuel line as about 30cm long. At 100kph you're using 7L of fuel per hr, so 120ml per minute, or 2ml per second.. How long do you want your surge tank to run the motor? 10seconds around a corner when the lift pump can't pick up the last bit of fuel? That's a 20ml surge tank! How about 45seconds going up the Moonbi mountain range with the last fuel in the back of the tank? Well, a minute is 120ml of fuel. Most people install giant surge tanks they will never use, so work out what you want it to do and then pick a size to use. I re-purposed a Subaru fuel filter canister that was free at the wrecker- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/page/11/#comments -
KE70 - Headlights not working from relay.
altezzaclub replied to MissKE70X's topic in KE70 Technical Questions
Buy a reverse-current kit off Ebay and fit it... Toyota has power from the relay to the bulbs and back to the dipswitch, this burns out the column switch eventually. The kit uses one relay between the 'on' switch and the dip switch, and this works a second relay between battery and light bulbs. Much brighter lights. Check out- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Saying that, I've had your problem recently with the Ebay kit I've just described, turned out to be a dirty connection on the relay earth. It has been in there quite a lot of years now. Otherwise, replace that stock relay and see if it fixes it. One-finger typing as I await the second half-hour on the ph to Telstra, they've given up playing their ad for the Telstra app and are just playing an endless music loop... T'was 45minutes last time, I swear they punish people who refuse to use the web. Fking pathetic company! -
Black oily plugs idle nightmare
altezzaclub replied to clovertex's topic in KE70 Technical Questions
Grab vernier calipers or put both manifolds face-down on a flat surface and grab feeler gauges. Measure the thickness of inlet and exhaust tabs where the washers press them onto the head and put a half-washer or bit of wire on the thin half... anything to make the washer push down evenly on the two manifolds. I had a set of washers with thin half-spring-washers brazed onto them. -
The Girl is in Cape Town for a cuzzies wedding- First thing she sees.. Being South African, it will have a T motor & box, they didn't use the Ks.
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We're seeing more of these flush pins on rally cars, still a very positive lock and need to be carefully installed to line up. Usually you have to cut the ribs under the bonnet to get the body of the lock in place. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/272689133211 https://www.autoware.com.au/shop/ford-mustang/exterior-ford-mustang/exterior-accessories/aerocatch-plus-flush-bonnet-latch-pin-kit/ The plain old radiator bar mounted ones are still the most foolproof, you just need to remember to put the pins in! https://www.kingswoodcountry.com.au/buy/speco-chrome-bonnet-hood-lock-pin-kit-clip-lanyard/121540 The sliding version of those with the trapped pin tend to wear out. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/saas-hood-pin-kit---silver/SPO2459321.html
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You don't want to vent the bonnet? A rearwards facing one right above the carb that sucks air out when you drive and the lets hot air rise and go out when you stop. I'm working on one for the Evo3 as we suffer heat problems at the radiator from oil cooler and intercooler being in front, and there's no place for hot air to exit around the back of the bonnet. Evos already have vents facing backwards at the front, but with sump guard on its still not enough open area to get good air flow out from the engine bay.
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Black oily plugs idle nightmare
altezzaclub replied to clovertex's topic in KE70 Technical Questions
Those tubes are used on the early Great Wall utes, which had Toyota motors. They are much cheaper than from Toyota if you can find them at a Great Wall dealer. The starting point for the idle mixture screw is turn it right in until it gently seats, then turn it out one and a half turns. A motor with nothing wrong should be within a 1/4 turn of that. With a warm motor at idle you should be able to turn the screw in and out by 1/4turns and pick the smoothest, fastest idle with the screw furthest in.