altezzaclub

That was very neatly done! On occasions I've been pleasantly surprised to find Toyota cheaper than non-OEM brands for parts, its always nice to find out you haven't paid too much for something.

"Could using a filter with an Anti-Syphon valve have a negative impact," I don't think so, they are designed for full oil flow when running, then to hold oil in the filter when the motor is off. When we bought The Girls KE70 it had the wrong filter on, it fitted fine but had no anti-drainback valve and the bearings always rattled briefly when started in the morning. We changed it straight away and I changed bearings later on, just fitting the same size bearings again. The KE70 filter is upside-down, with the inlet at the bottom, so drains away easily without that valve "Anti-syphon valve This valve prevents the oil from running out of the filter when the engine is switched off. It has a function similar to that of the anti-drainback valve - with the difference that the valve is placed on the "clean side" of the filter. As a result, the filter is constantly filled with oil, regardless of whether the engine is running or not. After starting the engine, the anti-syphon valve significantly reduces dry friction between the parts working together, as it contributes to the rapid flow of oil to the engine. "

I see the inlet plenum is quite a different shape to the FWD smallport 4AGEs, they are more a symmetrical 'log' so the throttle body gets cut off the back and welded on the front. Is it worth modifying that manifold to put the TB on the front? The distributor is worse, they are on the front side of a 4AGE so the only thing on the back is the water junction for heater & bypass. The solution for that rear dizzy is to move to COPs and not have a dizzy, like the 20valve, but that's far more complex. Banjo is working on it- A distributorless 4K with a trigger wheel on the crank, you could chat to him about it. An Arduino ECU controlling the spark and coil-over-plugs setup, and the big advantage you have is that the ECU in the 4AFE already reads the trigger wheels, so you just need to relay that to a piggyback computer and get rid of the dizzy cap and all plug leads. You'd still need the distributor base for the trigger wheels. Ah- JohnDee is always a very clever man.. Its been done quite a bit, you can make it very simple if you fire more than one COP at a time, but you'll need more electronics experience than me!

The 4AFE should have the same block so bolt up to the T50, but watch out for the water connections jamming against the firewall. The ECU I'd expect to be non-tunable. Arduino are making some very cheap tuning computers now, Banjo showed me one a day ago. I've got an older Haltech I'm in the middle of wiring right now to replace the 4AGE ECU. I would agree about the Takumi Tax on the 4AGE, the 4AFE will do what you need in a jeep, and if not put a supercharger on it!

Not that I've seen. Where are you, not in Aussie I expect, they never came here. Probably some went to NZ as Jap used imports, there were some great 4WD versions of FWDs that were never imported new. Russia took a lot of Jap imports too, all the 4WD would be handy there. What's the drive setup like? Mechanical front and rear with a silicon center diff? The Japanese could buy them with a 4AGE 20valve in. Ah- got distracted looking up KE70s in Russia.. https://auto.drom.ru/all/?multiselect[]=9_26_4_1&multiselect[]=9_26_4_0 Ru400,000 is about $7000 here, so they are not super-cheap. So, I reckon you're on your own at the moment! What would you like to do to it?

Here's a starting point for which jets and chokes should be in there-

"ems as tho my carbs are out of tune won’t hold idle with out choke out, " Take the tops off, unscrew the various jets and clean them out with a can of carb cleaner. Shoot cleaner down the holes and drillings where the jets go. The fuel cell may have been replacing a rusty fuel tank, and dirt from that might be blocking the idle jet on one carb now. Hold a carb top up vertically and have the float hanging so the arm just touch the needle and seat valve, and measure the gap float to top with verniers. Compare the two carbs, the gap should be 11mm from memory. That gap determines your fuel level in the carb, which also determines the leaness. Another one is the gasket between the carb and the manifold, a difficult choice. Some get bolted up tight, other theories reckon they must float so the engine vibrations don't disturb the fuel. See if they are rigid now. Then take the carbs off and inspect the O-rings or the gaskets to the manifold. Any leak in there will run a carb lean. Then back the junction screw off that joins the carbs so they are independent at idle and see if each one makes a distinct clean 'click' when you let its throttle drop 5mm. If the idle stop screw is not set correctly it will not have a clean click, or if the throttle shaft is bent so one of the two plates hits first. Check each carb then run it so you can play with each to see which one is lazy. Take a length of hose and listen to each of the 4 throats, they should each make a clean distinct 'thop' sound at idle. The quiet or fuzzy ones need their idle mixture screw adjusted. get each pair sounding as similar as possible. Then set the idle speed screw on each carb to make the carbs sound the same. Then set the balance screw joining the carbs so they open the same from that idle point. There, you've set them up! Of course the jets may not be ideal, but you need the car running as best you can before driving it and doing 'plug cuts' to compare the 4 plugs and see if the same fuel is getting delivered to each throat and if the mixture is correct right through the range. A mixture display and an oxy sensor is the modern way to do this, with an oxy sensor port in each exhaust branch... The trouble is, you spend that money and once you have the right jets in the carbs you never need the gear again. There're books written on how to tune twin carbs, this is just a quick reply...

Interesting- A couple of grand ($US!) would buy one that might do it... https://www.keconversions.com/product/3RZ-ST141-corona-sump-custom-turbo-conversion/167?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=27 and does it work with their KE20 conversion kit? https://www.keconversions.com/product/3RZ-2RZ-KE30-KE55-TE31-engine-conversion-mounts-swap/35?cp=true&sa=false&sbp=false&q=false&category_id=27 If not, you need to be a very neat sheet-metal welder and make your own sump welded onto the 3RZ base. Get hold of KEConversions and ask them. I can't get excited about the 3RZ though, its 175kg stuck in the nose for a low-power engine with lots of torque. Nothing better you could use?

You'd be short of room I'd say, DCOE Webers take up quite a length, plus an air filter on top of that. They'd make it quicker, I'm sure, use more fuel because of that, make a lot more noise and probably cost a chunk to get tuned with the right jets. But they were the go-to for any car being hotted up in the 60s and '70s for a good reason! A DD Weber, not so much, it would be much more like the carb on there. The downdrafts are not designed for sport, they're designed to fit in a small space. To make it really work you'd need some head porting to match it all up, a hotter cam grind and ideally a set of extractors, although that stock manifold looks pretty good. You'd spend as much as getting a 4AGE and fitting it, but that might be quite worn out and at least you know just how good your own motor is right now.

The lash cap gap will change the geometry of the rocker, you will have to check that. If you take them out you will have a gap of 10 or 20thou or more, depending on how thick they are. Screwing the rocker down to take that up will make it tilt more in one direction right through its movement, so it may jam against the pushrod end at one extreme or run the rocker end off the valve tip. The company that set the motor up would have trimmed the valves to shorten them by the cap thickness so the rocker maintained ideal geometry (I hope!) so look at the movement carefully and leave them in if the rocker is biased one way or the other without them. A bigger tappet gap will reduce cam duration, but we're only talking a few thou or you move off the 'soft' part of the ramp and the cam hits the whole valve train with more of a whack. Ah Grasshopper, one day you will learn about the 4AGE motor...

Hey Grandpa, what's a pushrod? ..and I thought a rocker was those old guys who get off on the Rolling Stones. How high are you planning on revving your 2TC Acpolish? I don't think you'd need lash caps for the metals involved unless you're adding some flash new-tech valves, and its just another thing to jump off at 8000rpm. Wiki tells me 2Ts were made up to '85, when the 4A series engine really got going and took over from engines that only hit 7000rpm on a good day. Does it go in that Seven?

I expect the engine won't start if its not in Park. Don't all autos have a lockout so you can't start them in gear, you must be in 'Park'? Just join those two wires. I'm way behind with all this safety stuff, I can't drive my daughter's i30 its so stupid with the way and the amount of things you have to do or an alarm goes off. ..and press the "Start" button to turn it off! So the Starlet is getting a massive makeover, it will be better than brand-new when you're done! Ah- you'll have to identify those wires on the engine loom, so do you have the neutral switch plug that goes on the gearbox?

Viterbo! How's that wild KP61 you had? The two wires are probably the ones at the gearlever, there will be a few there. A pair make the light work at night so you can see the gear you're in, a pair make the reverse lights work and a pair are to tell the ECU you are in neutral so it can start the car. This thing- https://www.tcorolla.net/adjustment-1174.html Hmmm.. for a Camry its on the gearbox, not the lever. https://carpedia.club/en/Ustanovka-perekliuchatelia-polozheniia-stoianka-neitral-avtomobilia-Toyota-Camry-2001-2006 and it is on the AE111 too! https://toyota.epc-data.com/corolla_levin/ae111/17734/electric/8401/ Looks like you'll have to sort out which wires do what in that switch. Ah, here you go- As a start I reckon power comes in on the top yellow, then goes to the ECU via green park, red reverse, blue/white neutral, blue/black drive, 2nd gear yellow and low gear red/yellow. So do you want to tell the ECU its in neutral or park?

Do it! it would have to be the simplest engine swap possible and a great way to get experience. Buy a halfcut or a whole parts car so you get everything from the windscreen forward and as parrot said, be prepared for it to take a month. Keep everything from your car in case the 4AGE blows up within a couple of months, any second-hand engine is a risk. The ECUs are very particular too, they may not swap at all. Lots of people must have done it already, is there a fan site for just this swap? I assume they're 4AGE smallport motors we are talking about here. You do realise its worth all of not much in terms of torque increase... what, 4NM extra..... 4AFE is worth 77KW & 142NM or so, 4AGE 85-90KW with 148NM . You might not even feel it if the 4AGE is a bit worn! What can you do to your 4AFE to get that much extra grunt?

I had one when I first came over here in 1976, a Beetle I bought in Sydney with a blown clutch, the rounded but not split rear window. Stayed with my sister and changed it in her driveway, then drove to Canberra where I was staying. It was resprayed down there while I worked at a panelbeaters, then GF & I went to Darwin in it... well, not quite, it melted a piston in the summer heat around Grafton & I hitched in to Glen Innes to get a new set from a wrecker. It never felt right after that so we left it in Townsville to be sold and hitch-hiked on to Darwin, where she flew to Indonesia and I hitched back to pick up the money. The dealer paid me, said the timing was out and the car was so good he sold it to his daughter! The adventures of youth! Many of them involved VWs back then!

Plus one! Always great to see a project finished and working, and that's a smart-looking sleeper.

"The Corolla looked a bit too try hard. " Definitely! The last decent-looking car Toyota made would be the Altezza, it followed on from some lovely Supras and Soarers, then devolved into weird angles and mis-fitting panels. The Yaris is like the Ford Ka, a ewe pissing, just not as bad. After Josh's bro bent his Golf R we fitted all the mechanicals and wiring from that (including the boot floor) to his Mum's 1.4L Golf. Now she has a shopping rocket that his Dad swipes most days, and it looks completely stock. The boot floor was the only part that needed altering (shallower floor) to fit the 4WD. Keeps your eyes open for an R at the auctions/wreckers, you never know...

True- There's no sidewall in a /35, and rally tyres are fat and heavy for a good reason! We had one throw the tread off recently, just left big areas of the wires on the surface, gravel is much harder on tyres than asphalt.

Have you had it running with a stock coil on the ECU only? I thought mixing bigport and smallport ECUs wasn't a good thing. I don't know if that is because they have different ways of handing cam timing & ignition, the distributors have different toothed wheels in them between the VAST and the ESA systems. I suppose you need to confirm ignition timing and injection timing to start with, if you can get it running on the stock setup at least you know the rest of the system like the wiring is good, The try the Razorback and make it work before trying the COPs. I'll know more when I finally get around to fitting a Haltech to replace my bigport ECU, or I'll be asking you for answers....

This!! "You strip it gradually, & tag everything, so that when you put it back together; in months to come; & that everything is in plastic bags or bottles, clearly marked; particularly nuts & bolts. " Then run up a budget and see what costs the most and what gives the best bang for buck. Think about what you're going to use the car for and what rpm you'll be using.. Most of what you are talking about I did in here- https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/ Its not hard to cc a combustion chamber, the answer I got was 31cc, the area was 30Sqcm and in the end I took 20thou off the head, in theory giving it 9.7:1 compression ratio. Nothing great or radical. It ran on E10 most its life. The thing most people don't have is a pipette to measure the volumes of turps put in a head, its worth buying a 25ml one. The area is just tracing around a bit of graph paper and counting the squares. Then a stock motor has a cylinder volume of 322cc, that's just multiplying bore & stroke, so add 7.3cc for the head gasket and add the chamber volume of 31cc and you get a total volume of 360cc, which crushes down to 31+7=38cc. That's a compression ratio of 9.4:1, which is just what Rollaclub Wiki says... I sent my cam off & bought a Crow 606 grind, not wild but an improvement, and you don't need to change valve springs. I had the flywheel lightened, bought some extractors and then the hard work started. I wouldn't use a DD Weber, go for SUs or better would be a single DCOE Weber, and I reckon best would be quad bike carbs off a 1000cc Suzuki GXR or similar, the Keihins are pretty common on older bikes. Tommys KE11 has them on here- Make sure the manifolds all line up perfectly & give the ports a bit of a cleanout to match all the joints. Have the electronic dizzy looked over for its timing advance curve, you don't want it as slow as a forkhoist! Another really handy tool is a mixture display, especially if you're tuning things yourself. Let us know how you go-

"the indexing of the pin that locates the front of the camshaft to the rear of the camshaft sprocket, is incremented in 12 degree camshaft degrees, whereas, leaving the pin in the original pin hole, & moving the chain one tooth on the camshaft sprocket only moves the timing 10 degrees. " So if you go forward one tooth and back one pin, you change it 2deg?

Advancing the camshaft (turning the cam sprocket clockwise) makes the inlet open earlier and close earlier, as you say, but it also makes the exhaust open earlier on the power stroke and close earlier on the top of the exhaust stroke. It turns the diagram here backwards, anti-clockwise. So inlet opens 15deg BTDC, exhaust closes 15deg ATDC, and at the other end the exhaust opens 50deg before the bottom and inlet closes earlier at 50deg ABDC. The piston is hardly moving at the top if you measure mm per deg, so these changes are not a big deal. At the other end its more important. The exhaust opens earlier, using less of the expansion of the burning fuel pressure, and the inlet closes earlier so the cylinder may not fill with fuel & air quite as much. The inlet closing is usually the most important one. If your adjustable wheel is anything like the Datsun ones, the teeth and the holes will not line up. The tooth will move 16deg, but one hole moves 4deg, a 2nd makes it 8deg and the 3rd 12deg, then the next tooth is 16deg back on hole 1. This should be fun!

"the large one is jammed " How did you try to make it open? Govt emissions regulations of the 1980s meant that manufacturers moved away from manual twin-choke carbs to vacuum operated secondaries or delay diaphrams or other systems that mean they won't open if you just open the throttle wide open. Even revving the engine with no load will not always open them. If you had all the linkages disconnected and it was jammed you could expect corrosion and dirt in the axle bush and around the plate edge, usually from sitting on a bench for a decade. The other thing that jams them is being bent or twisted. Start a new topic for it and give us some photos.

Ah, I didn't know you knew Parrot- "I don't suppose this source is Philip Colina aka pfncolina / dhee / dhee77 / Budi / etc. based in Manila?" Page 2 of this thread.

I'll swap you a Commodore V8 & a fish tank.. Just imagine how worn-out a motor is when its 50years old, and then you find there are no pistons available, or bearings or seals.. You'd be better selling us Filfrederick's one, at least its current.