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LittleRedSpirit

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LittleRedSpirit last won the day on May 23

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About LittleRedSpirit

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  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Interests
    MMA Fighting, Skateboarding, dirt bikes.

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    http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?autocom=gallery&req=user&user=2885
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  1. Hey this isnt facebook, all the info is usually here but youneed to search for it.
  2. Does it still have the mechanical fuel pump, might be getting weak.
  3. Why not just track down a 3tgte. Factory dohc turbo. Not very powerful, 160hp 150NM, but ticks your boxes.
  4. Always loved the 2 door body.
  5. Im working on parts sourcing all the obscure bits I need to put together more 2azfe conversions. Theres some interest, but nobody wants to do the work. I think I can put together a parts package that makes it quite easy to do from everything that Ive learned. I figure people spend over 2 grand just relocating the shifter on a Beams for use in a differnt car, so the 2az has be a good option. Main issue being a lot of the source vehicles arent around any more, so Im just patiently looking for bits. I think to overcome the rarity of finding a 2azfe flywheel, I can just have NPC make them to spec with the correct design, offer a few different clutch packages, and have a couple ready to go so when people want to do the conversion they can get the bits off me and get to work. So many motors around now.
  6. A few photos for the fans haha. One from the rollaclub Cruise on the 14th. A couple nice JDM cars Ive seen lately. The repaired front end of the car, with a nicely done bonnet and bars now. Time slips from the drags. Clutch can no longer hold the power. Ive quoted a HD 30 percent stronger one that will cost 570 bucks or so from NPC. Got best MPH and 60 foot, but bogged on one run, and clutch slipped on the faster one and I backed out of it. Restored some actual ae86 rear plate lights and threw away the thai knockoff ke70 ones that were super cheap, but lasted 3 years before going to powder in the sun and snapping wires off. Kouki Headlights are way way brighter eh. Little Anika just wont stop growing. Her and her mum are up North in Cairns right now, having a holiday on Omi and Opas sail boat.
  7. Ok where to begin, its been a long few weeks waiting to get her fixed, which went about as well as it could have. Ive been wathcing fuel pressure lately, been struggling with fairly inconsistent torque. Car has always gone really well cold, and semed to get asthmatic when hot. I started heavily examining fuel pressure and temp as a possible cause. Along the way I noticed my Tomei reg was a shitty knockoff, and that my fuel pressures were dropping to half what they should be after the car was running for a while. I decided a good quality fuel pressure reg was a good investment. I ended up buying an FPR1200 from turbosmart with the dash 6 fittings to the rail. This meant the restriction to 1/4 inch on the outflow of the rail was removed so the feed and return is fully 8mm now. Installed new hose clamps and the fresh efi hose required. Must be getting good at it cause nothing leaked. Unfortunately, the reg wasnt the issue, so now I needed to look at the pumps, and why the fuel pressure might be dropping. It seemed like a worse problem when the car was hotter, and the longer the car ran, the more the fuel pressure dropped. Was looking into density loss due to heating the fuel. Just couldnt work it out. As a basic test I looked at the voltage at the fuel pump when the car was running, and found 11 volts when it should have been 13.8. Viola! Voltage drop. Used the IR gun to test the temp of the wiring, 65 degrees C. Relays, same temp. Seemed bloody hot. Must be a high resistance problem. Spoke to Medicine Man who had wired it originally, and we decided to shorten and simplify the wiring, and relocate the relays. I loked up the pumps and they have a combined total draw of 14.5 to 15 AMPS constant. The twin running them was 15 amp twin, and the one wire jumped apart into both pumps at a sub connector on top of the tank. My solution, was to add the relay to the fuse and relay box I had recently set up in the back of the car, next to the battery. This allowed the shortest possible run from battery to pump to ground. I used a twin 87 5 pin relay and ran one wire per pump, and ran the grounds back to the battery negative. Instantly had the same voltage as the dash gauge when I tested. Fuel pressure does drop a small amount from cold to hot, but only what the temperature of the system dictates, and not from voltage drop. The icing on the cake is the car goes like stink now, feels like the motor got bigger. It also wanted the VE tables massively adjusted. Went from peak values over 120 to around low 90s at peak, so the overall fuelling has come way back to account for adequate pressure. A bit of quick mental math says it has twice the fuel available at double the pressure, but that the ve tables only went down 25 percent, so it will atoimise and burn more of it now. Also, the car hasnt lost any real economy so far, as I got onto retuning it quicker than usual, which makes me think when complete, I will have a nice further increase in economy, and power to boot. Im pretty sure I can get into the 13s now.
  8. Same control aems come in xt130, rt 132, ke30 and ra40. Broaden your search.
  9. Yeah thats exactly the way the dudes mind works. lol.
  10. To be honest I was on a mission, they had an sw20 there that had the same rear bulb holders as the st184. The st204 was on different more Camry like bulb holders that didn't suit. Aside from the Toyota aisle I didn't look at many cars, and I didn't explore the yard this time really at all. Always good for a haggle at the desk, guy wants 33 dollars for a few bulb holders, I got him down to 22. Haha wreckers. When I was last there a few months back they had an rn4x Hilux in decent shape, the sw20, a bunch of old FJ cruiser bodies, there's a big 1980s Toyota crown that's surprisingly complete. Then just lots of the run of the mill corolla, yaris, Aurion and Camry. There was an Aurion with a 2gr still in it there, but it was pretty water affected.
  11. Also forgot to add, removed the wiper mounted washer set-up and reverted to oem cause stock bonnet mounted nozzles were in the bonnet anyhow.
  12. Car is in the shop at the moment to be fixed. Picked up some spare cambertops a while back. Put a tuned sticker on the trim under the screen. Pulled out the stainless fasteners holding on the gaurds and fitted oem ones that I cleaned and painted. Removed all the power feeds fror extra accessories and added a shift/warning light setup in the same location the oil pressure light was located before I changed to the dash pressure gauge sensor. Removed the stereo compnents and the sturdy trims they're integrated with. Weighed it all, 23kgs. I will take it too a test and tune before it gets warm again. Building towards that with the shift light and the weight reduction. Im looking for a fair comparison to last time, so considering the extra speakers, trim and sub were added since, along with a metal bonnet and hatch, its the least I can do. All the Kouki lights were surprisingly light when they were shipped over, I wonder how kouki levin vs zenki levin lights compare for weight. Panel beater rang, knowing how I like to make things, and asked about the different wiring from zenki to kouki park lights. I had no idea, but after looking it seems the kouki uses a bigger bulb for the parker, making it equivalent to a tail light globe size. From reading around, Trueno park lights actually go brighter when you put the indicator on, as a side peeker light, which helps with finding addresses and turning visibility. Levins do not have this function. I had some bulb holders from a ke70 van tail light loom, that were in perfect shape, but they lacked the rubber seals the lights at the front needs, and the small bulb holders were a different unique pattern to the kouki blinker hole. I stopped by the shop, grabbed the bits and went to BOSS wrecking at Tingalpa. I found that there were few sources of compatible bulb holders for the small bulbs, one being ae95R 4wd corolla front bar lights. Then I stumbled across the st184 Celica, whose tail lights feature the correct bulb holders for the big bulb in the kouki lights, and whose park lights have the correct holders for the kouki blinker bulb. Both bulb holders have rubber seals suitable for the ae86 parkers. I didnt want moisture to prematurely ruin some new parkers. I remade the wiring and tested, and Im about to drop it all back to the shop ready for when they need it. They tugged it, it was out of square in the bay, its all square now. They pulled the rad support forwards, I think they gave the front of the rails a little tickle too, and they got the bar mount looking surprissingly solid and straight. Pretty excited to check progress when I pop in later today. They even found the exact same spotties and will replace those too. That was a bit of an effort on their part because they are out of production retro lights. Need to find the Kouki Eyelid trims as they didnt come with the lights unfortunately.
  13. The lights and grill have arrived, so car goes into the shop Tuesday. Was lucky enough to get the non fog grill as I prefer it over the fog type. I also installed a different relay box. Now if I want to pull the rear interior and stereo out its easy without uprooting all my relays, and its next to the battery and I can reach them all from the back of the car without climbing into the back seat. Also tightened up the cage floor bolts, and took out some redundant power feeds. Touched up a few paint chips including a little tiny rust bubble that came up, I must have missed it when I did initial prep. I dremmeled it out, rust convert, etch primed and filled, then rebuilt the 2pak. Just need to buff it down. Looking forward to driving it again.
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