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LittleRedSpirit

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LittleRedSpirit last won the day on October 29 2021

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About LittleRedSpirit

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    http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?autocom=gallery&req=user&user=2885
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    Brisbane
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    MMA Fighting, Skateboarding, dirt bikes.

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  1. Olympic Gold edition isn't something really special more of a curiosity. I saw a mint 33000k olympic gold one go for about 4 grand a few years ago from a deceased estate. Ill try to add a pic. Should make the condition argument for yours pretty well.
  2. You have a speedo drive that suits the automatic final drive ratio.
  3. Not to mention the leather seats!
  4. Yeah make mounts to suit your chassis. Custom headers and inlet. Y starter ring gear and bellhousing. Have a bellhousing set for sale if you're keen message me. Use a W transmission. I have a w57 now but will put a w58 in soon. Fuel system, wiring, ecu, tuning etc.
  5. I've seen so many adds for sale lately priced on potential. Like a stock roughish VK executive with a HSV GTS motor, on a pallet next to it, asking 25k. With a comment like, just needs to be dropped in. lol. Car is valued at 5k, motor at 6k, how do you come up with 25k. People get in too deep, cause its easy to spend if you're an idiot with cash, but idiots cant fix or finish anything. Hows the ae86 on FB marketplace with the full ra65 engine, box and interior, with positive offset wheels asking 25k. Fucking vomit spec. Where I come from people like that get slapped.
  6. Looks like old mate lives in QLD so all that engineer stuff doesn't apply. Just get a mod plate and follow adrs when you build it, and you'll be fine. Thankfully QLD motor trades are deregulated and there's even 6 shires where you dont ever require a roadworthy. My mod plate for 2az86 was about 200 bucks, and it covered engine, suspension and diff, cage and seats.
  7. Quick update. House is half built. Roof is on. Cars been sweet as can be. No real issues to report, just wear and tear from all the roadwork between here and Brisbane. Copped some gravel and rocks from trucks coming in and out of the quarry north of Gympie. Was lucky to not experience much more serious damage. Front bar took the brunt, and ejected the paint. Gave it a wash today. Much overdue.
  8. Sounds like a fun little project. Did you dribble a couple ml of oil into each cylinder to try to lube up any stuck rings while comp testing?
  9. I put it all back together minus the grill and sent it for AC repairs. It had a rubbed through a hose from my big fan that I added to the condenser. I removed the big fan for now, and will replace the 400mm unit with a much more appropriately sized 300mm one. Otherwise its all fixed mechanically now and the AC is 3 degrees C. If I'm being fussy I might grease the steering rack and tie rod ends. The suspension is performing well. Next to no body roll, or pitch and bounce with good shocks in it. The Konis are in the front now dont know if I mentioned. Just need to find someone to spray the top of it now.
  10. Have now done the auto fluid and filter as well as resealing the auto oil pan with a new gasket. Its got new Penrite 85 140 diff oil too. Ive fitted a rear wheel cylinder and bled brakes and fresh fluid right through. I test drove the car and found the front shocks were still in need of doing so I put my Koni Sport adjustables in that I had on the shelf, set 135 degrees back from full stiff. Car feels lovely to drive now, took a good long drive up the highway and it was superb. It now needs the AC fixed, and Im going to hand it over to a painter to redo the roof, bonnnet and boot areas as I dont have the equipment to do that here. Then it will be regretably up for sale.
  11. Ok, there has been much done on this. Been scratching out, rust converting and smoothing out crows feet in the paint. Have removed the power antenna and bought and aftermarket replacement. Have removed rear shocks and purchased a pair of monroe GT Gas shocks for it. Just standard ra65 shocks. Have the rear bumper removed, and Ive been straightening the shell with the heat gun, twisting the corner of the reo straight, and fixing rust in it. Theres a seperate part that mounts the number plate lights inside the skin, it was super rusted out for some reason, and the threaded posts that let you bolt on the skin, well 2 were so rusted they snapped. I drilled them out, replaced them with m6 allen head bolts and ground down a couple nuts to create the stepped mounting they needed and to let me attach them properly. The rusted out part that mounts the lights was then ground off the strip with the threads, and replaced with a piece of zincanneal that I had folded up by levs fabrications here in town. Instead of welding to the surface rusty metal strip that it attaches to, I used a thick gooey epoxy, to seal over any rust in the union between the pieces, stopping cavities that may increase rust problems. They also replaced for me the metal piece that secures the skin all the way accross under the bumper. Mine had been torn away and stretched and was rusty from damage to the bumper anyhow. I never intended to get into the bumper, but I always noticed some suspiciously flaky paint on this lower corner, and in the three years my mate had the car it had started lifting, so when I sanded it back found an old repair, had to remove the bumper to fix the paint there so I just decided to go for it and make it nicer. I redid the blackouts on the bottom with a Upol power can, pretty amazing quality rattle cans those Upol ones. Ive got the arch trims out on the right side, theres no rust in there. Cleaned all underneath it. Pockets are perfect, I repaired one bit of rust under a sill trim, had to just plate over the outer layer and reproduce the square hole for the body clip. Its all filled over painted and has the blackouts redone too. I had the rear screen removed, and repaired the rust that started to come back in the lower right corner. Did a much more thorough job getting any pinholes to be filled with weld, and did great prep with PPG etch primer, filler, sealer and topcoat now. Been buying matched cans from signature refinishing supplies that work great. Have a fairly good sized rust patch just isolated under the drivers door, in the shut of the door itself. Just a fairly simple shaped area that needs to be replated. Bit of a bitch cause I need to remove the door to do it. So the to do list as it stands now is as follows: - Reassemble rear bumper and install. - Repaint roof and bonnet to finish the crows feet repair. - Install the power antenna for the radio. - Install the condenser and new AC o-rings, which I have a couple assortments of thanks to an ebay miss-click. - Put the grill back in. - Change the wheel cylinder on right rear as its leaking, have the part here. - Brake fluid flush and replace. - ATF service and trans filter. Stuff Ive done so far: Waterpump, oil, filter, visual timing chain inspection, new front crank seal, resealed top cover and half moon plugs, replaced all vac lines and deleted the EGR, air pump and emissions crap once and for all, including the metal vac lines array. Resealed and painted the boot seal area. Rust repairs under the rear screen and repainted. Rust repaired the sill. Repaired old crash damage at back bumper. Replaced the top radiator hose. Flushed radiator, new cap as the old one didn't hold pressure, washed out the rad overflow.
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