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LittleRedSpirit

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LittleRedSpirit last won the day on May 23 2019

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About LittleRedSpirit

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    http://www.rollaclub.com/board/index.php?autocom=gallery&req=user&user=2885
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  • Location
    Brisbane
  • Interests
    MMA Fighting, Skateboarding, dirt bikes.

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  1. Commuting to Brisbane for work in this car is very cold this time of year. I stopped here at my favourite spot for coffee. My hands were stiff. The sunrise was amazing though.
  2. Ive now been for a long highway mission to Brisbane and back for work. The Maxxis tyre is actually very good. The straight line grip is good, probably about as good as the non warmed up 595rsr. It feels like it rolls really easily, it doesnt tram track, and the steering is more laid back and airy as opposed to fighting you a lot on rough roads, it just goes straight. When turning you feel the lesser grip, a little more prone to understeer on harder steering inputs, responds better to being a bit more measured in the corners. Havent had wet roads to drive on yet, but I will report in due time. Wheel is easier to move in slow going, makes the quick rack lighter to handle. Compared to the rsr tyre, these are quieter on the road too, could run the stereo about 25 percent quieter and still have adequate volume. They are loud and chirpy when spinning, the rsr just quietly slipped.
  3. Im keen to see as well, obviously not going to have the dry grip Im used to, but I need to be able to get from maryborough to Brisbanein all weather so I really need something that wont aquaplane in the wet. Im going from 205/50 to 195/50. This should also help with the aquaplaning. This is the tyre. Guy at the tyre shop was a big fan of this tyre. I could have gotten a similar spec federal for a lot less but according to the reviews they are not as good in wet.
  4. Driver seat was flaking dandruff from the foam so I had the local trimmer, Reg mckenna, do the work to repair the bolsters and side panels. Totally stoked with it, its a stronger fabric and stiffer foam and he wrapped the seat from with some material to stop the foam deforming. Breaking it in again now. Got some steel cut and folded up by a local fab shop, and Ill be making a super low seat rail for passenger side to match drivers soon. Ive got some new sliders to fit in with it, should be great. I decided to re angle the radiator and add clearance for the fans, so I redrilled how the top cooling plate mounts, and tightened up the seal between the rad support and rad with some more rubber seal. made an extra 10mm or so space to be able to work on the front of the motor and to fit a fan shroud some day. Ordered some more streetable tyres so I can travel to Brisbane for work in greater safety. The old 595 rsrs are showing their age especially on the back end. It looks like someone has tried to slash one of them unsuccessfully. They aquaplane above 80 klm per hour. Going with some Maxxis HP5, theyre a V rated (240ks and hour) road tyre with fairly nice wet performance.
  5. Is that an R33 4 pot on a machined xt130 upright?
  6. on point 4, a desirable oil system just hits 100 degrees C to make sure any condensation in the motor is evaporated. Any hotter for prolonged periods will deteriorate the oil.
  7. Wouldnt it be illegal with the cut firewall anyhow? Probably the adr tag.
  8. There are fuel tank restoration products that let you treat the rust and seal it over before using the tank.
  9. My friend, that looks like something a pensioner cobbled together, they certainly arent factory.
  10. The left rack boot is changed, its been dead for a while. Put some fresh moly grease into the rack after cleaning it up and regreased the tie rod ends. Spilit boot on the left side and no spare to change it, but theres no play and when the thing is installed the remaining rubber caps it off. Ill just let it die a slow death and change it down the line. Decided to fix my tacho, as it stopped working when I rewired the fuel pumps. Decided to untape and trace many things, ended up shortening up the power feeds to ignition and ecu power by about a metre since they are side by side in the glove box. I checked over all the tacho wiring, and removed the old fuel pump circuit that was balled up in the back seat area since the rewire. This meant a lot of dash and cluster had to come out, and also the blower motor and vent for the fan. While it was all apart I re routed a lot of things, tested all the tacho wiring from the pullup to the dash, and the pullup to the left kick and all was well, so I checked the power side and realised that it was powered by the spare pin 87 on the old fuel pump relay. All I had to do was reinstate a relay there to power it, and to put it all back how it was minus the now removed fuel pump circuit. So I tidied it all up, put it back together all but the last couple screws, fired it up, and tested it, and tacho still dead. Had a quick think, decided the work I had done was sound and then checked the fuse to the relay, and of course it had blown when I rewired the fule pumps most likely. Changed that, then perfect tachometry. Yesterday I clearanced the bonnet a bit more under the reverse cowl and drilled a drain hole so water can flow out and not build up under it. Ive had a bit of an issue with the number 1 filter rubbing through on a sharp endge it now passes freely where it needed to. I also took the breater outlet off my catch can and sealed it to reduce the amount of rich running smell you get while its warming up. Seems unaffected by the change as far as how it runs. https://youtu.be/O_-iBGJGoBs
  11. I think thats your only option, except that will negate the whole thing. A professional shop that produces for major manufacturers will insist you dont produce a product thats an exact copy right down to the branding of TRD unless licenced to do so. They certainly wont risk the sustainable aspects of their business by reproducing IP they dont own.
  12. Aiming for racing is easier than ADR approval but do your research and see whats involved before you do much else.
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