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LittleRedSpirit last won the day on May 23

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  1. I weighed ma61 hub with rotor 6.1kg, ra40 hub with rotor 6kg, and the YR39 hub with rotor 6.6kg. They all give the same 37.5mm clearance from the wheel face to the friction face of the rotor. This seems standard on the Toyota hub and rotor designs of this era to clear a single piston calliper. As for the hubs: They are all about a 95mm bearing set width, across the middle from inner seal to the face where the grease cap presses in. This is guess what the bearings require to cover the stub axle. The vented rotor types have more offset space from the strut, to allow for the thicker rotors. YR39: about 70mm from inner edge to wheel face. About 21mm from wheel face to the rotor mounting face, leaving 49mm from inside edge to the rotor mounting face. Rotor is 45mm thick and leaves 4mm approx from rotor face to inner edge. MA61: about 72mm from inner edge to wheel face. About 32mm from wheel face to rotor mounting face, and that leaves 40mm from rotor face to inner edge. Rotors are 26mm thick overall, so that leaves 14mm inside. RA40: about 60mm from inner to wheel face. About 33mm from wheel face to rotor face, leaving 27mm from rotor face to inside edge. Deduct the 16mm thick rotor assembly and you get 11mm from the back of the rotor to the inner edge. The snout is obviously longer on this hub, as the wheel is set 60mm out, not 70 or 72mm. Ill firm these up when I get some vernier callipers to measure with. Mine broke. At that time Ill make a spreadsheet that's useful. One thing that's obvious, the ra40 hub gives less offset than others, and if I use the ma61 or YR39 hub, I end up with 20 or 24mm more front track respectively. My front guards wont enjoy that, it might mean switching back to a stock length LCA from the XT130 LCA. I guess if I was dead set on 4 piston callipers, Id be trying to use the YR39 rotor on the MA61 hub to maximise the distance from friction face to wheel face, which would be around 49mm with that combo, but it pushes the inner rotor edge just past flush with the inner hub edge, which means you need a more complex bracket that steps back. This isn't a deal breaker, but I'm tempted to make a set-up that's so oemish its not funny, with cost, and ease of service and parts collection being the priority. I noticed the zze122 has the same rotor dimensions, so I might try and investigate those callipers. Being Corolla platform the master cylinder change wont be too much, and to make the drums work I might just need to go to the bigger wheel cylinder size. Using a single piston later model calliper it should be cheap and easy to obtain and have easy parts availability. I also wont need to do any real trickery with the bracket which keeps cost down and also means I can use the stock hub and rotor combo from the YR39. Should be an easier thing to find for people, rather than a combo of multiple things.
  2. Sometimes you need to tap the end fold of the LCA a bit flatter to make clearance, but not usually with rcas.
  3. So the Venhill kit arrived, and I fabricated a new throttle cable. I ripped an old one apart and wire brushed the threaded adjuster and nuts. I used a Genuine one from an ma70 because it has Teflon inside the adjuster. I etch primed the metal parts, scrubbed all the plastics clean and cut the firewall end off of the old ke70 cable. I cut, pulled and drilled the ends out to suit the 7mm cable housing for the 2mm Venhill wire. I then super glued the adjuster onto the cable housing, and posed it up to find the length of the housing. Once established I ran the inner wire through about 400mm extra and then cut both with the angle grinder. This gave me spare wire to sort to length. Before cutting the ke70 cable up I measured from the pedal clips shoulder to the end of the cable, 147mm, that is the magic number of extra wire vs housing. I marked this point and finished off the cable by ensuring all the correct bits went on in the correct order and orientation, then I soldered on the cable end for under the dash. I did the birdcage technique to ensure a strong bond that cant pull off. Very happy. I also found a couple of adjustments to make to the itbs, which also helped the throttle return as crisp as possible. Once I adjusted idle, all was good. Been researching a brake upgrade. I have these 25mm Liteace rotors that seem really well vented and only make the hub 600 grams heavier than the ra40 solid rotor.
  4. Its the earlier style, whereas the later drums in the 80s seemed to have the ratcheting adjustment. I had an ae71 once that had a locking drum. When I pulled it apart the adjuster was backwards, and it ratcheted tighter every time you pressed the pedal and didn't release. Flipped it and it worked fine.
  5. There's 2 ways to do it, pop the cover on the back and stick in a tool and crank it over, but I find it easier to take off the drum and clean it out and do it from the front. There's two sprung levers in my drums, as they are from the old corona mx13 diff. They simply interlock, and adjustment is given by their relative positions. I can just adjust it with a screwdriver by pushing it over the required number of teeth. I always scribe the base position mark so I know where I started if I move it too much.
  6. Here you can see the salts left behind by the coolant leak. This is my heater delete mod, its 5mm Aluminium plate sealed on the original gasket and holding the dipstick ala factory. This was the real culprit, this thing wasnt tight where the heater pipe lived before removal for rwd. You can clearly see the trail of the leak. I love this road, it takes you to a place called camp Somerset, it would be a great road for a time trial event, it just rolls over the hills until coming alongside the lake shore. Only downside is the 2 cattle grids, because they come up fast and unexpectedly. There's also a portaloo there, which comes in real handy after a drive. When I lowered the car, i did not realise the custom top mount brackets were in need of clearance, as they both hit the arms and kinked them. I've since put straight arms in and clearanced them properly. You can see the tell tale marks here on the brackets. And the 2 bent arms in situ awaiting removal. Dent from a Junkies Kneecap. 2azfe needs this much fuel pressure. My little flywheel locking rig. Handprint from a Meth head. Only real men hack up perfectly good things to make other things perfectly better, lol. I was particularly proud of the one hole that pierced the alloy rib all the way through. You could say bonnet clearance is not quite a thing.
  7. Putting 2 and 2 together, you see small bubbles after bleeding with the cap off at idle, it ejects the coolant at higher rpm. It could well have a blow from combustion pressure to water jacket that wont affect oiling, it will just pressurise the heck out of the cooling passages at higher revs and cylinder pressures. Compression test the engine. Pressure test the cooling system at the same time and see how much pressure in the water jacket coincides with compression events in the engine. If there's any correlation you will have your answer.
  8. So I decided to tighten up the rear brakes, they were getting sloppy. The usual routine is to remove the drums and vacuum out all the dust, and then brake clean and adjust the shoes till its ever so fiddly to slip the drum on freely. Its generally only needed when the pedal starts to feel shit from needing to move so much fluid for the rears, as it is I guess with most of these cars. I was able to click each side adjuster 6 times to find the correct shoe adjustment. Seems like they wore evenly, but a lot also, the friction material is about 1/3 gone. Handbrake has gone from about 4 clicks to 2. Only problem to report is the left wheel cylinder leaks for some reason, so I dropped by Bursons and ordered that and a new rack boot, as the one closest the headers has split and needs swapping out. As a matter of interest in pedal feel adjustment, I went through some parts boxes to see what I had lying around to play with to adjust brake feel. I found I had the JDM disk style and ADM Drum style brake valves and splitters, so I stripped and cleaned them up. Inside I found the spring area was very much a holding cell for any muck thats travelling through the lines. Both devices, the disk and drum valves were full of contaminated crud when I opened them up, so I cleaned them both up and bagged all the bits for storage in case I use a disk rear end some day. I also had a spare ae86 brake booster of unknown condition connected to those bits, so I stripped the Master and lines off it, and I wire brushed all the corrosion and scale off of it, masked it, etch primed with this intensely great PPG Protec Etch pro product, and then painted it satin black with my touch up gun. Result looked so good I really hoped it was working, so I looked up all kinds of test procedures, and it passed them all. A bit surprising since it looked like it came from a halfcut that sat on Fukishima Docks for 2 years. That's now been wrapped up in a soft old shirt, bagged and put away for a rainy day, or if I ever buy a ke70 again. After all that the pedal felt completely decent after the rear brakes were adjusted, so I didn't fit any of it, but at least I know what I have now, and its stored properly, and ready if needed. Engine wise, I'm very happy with it. It really appreciated the new plugs and some road tuning after, the ones that came out had some pitting on the centre electrodes, they were Denso, so likely the original spark plug for the engine. When removed they were not fouled, they were that nice even olivine grey colour you get when god loves gasoline. Their condition was even too, with all cylinders fairing fairly equally. I made a global fuel correction between the 2 phases of the engine as the ports 1 and 4 have the slightest bend in them, and the ports to 2 and 3 are straighter right through, so I added 1 percent fuel to cylinders 2 and 3 as a test and found idle afrs to be more notably more stable. I dont know if its just anecdotal, but it seems to work and feel correct, its only 1 percent. I had tried as high as 3 percent but found it made a couple extra pops when you went to overrun, but it sounds clean with the 1 point addition, and the torque is strong feeling along with it. It loves the cold air this time of year too. I want to get a crew together and go to the drags soon. I think I can do an NA 2369cc 13 second pass.
  9. Looks pretty even across each cylinder, do you know the cause?
  10. Doh isn't that always the way. Good to see you dropping in.
  11. I've got some parts on the way so I can make an even longer throttle cable. KE70 cable is just a little short of the length I need, since my throttle cracker pulls towards the exhaust side of the bay. I've got a Teflon lined Venhill kit coming with 2.35m of cable outer. 2.6m of inner 2mm braid, adjusters and Ill make a cable from that with the ends from the stock ae86 cable which is a borderline too short for anything length. Its actually a clutch kit, but it comes with the cable that has a 6 diameter x 10mm cylinder cast onto the engine side end, a slight increase over my stock throttle cable with its thickness, 1.8mm to 2mm, and the little screw lock fitting to set the length under the dash. I think Ill work out the length required and just make it on a bench to the same spec as the ke70 one, but with an extra 30 or 40cm length to smooth out the turns in my set-up. The man issue is that is you dont let off the throttle kind of abruptly, it returns to not quite all the way closed, and you have to tickle the pedal to make it drop the rpm right off to idle. Just a bit sick of doing that although it just makes you practice heel to in every situation as the heel toe release is abrupt enough to make it find the stop. Hopefully this new set-up has some more gradual bends and less cable drag.
  12. Been tracing a coolant leak that started occurring. I removed the heater circuit after seeing coolant run from under that, but it turned out to be the bung in the old heater hole behind the head not being tightened up fully. I must have left it cracked to bleed out air and forgot to tighten it up. I looked over how the cooling system works, due to there being an internal bypass the heater circuit isn't needed, so Ill probably leave it out until such time as I decide to fit a heater core. All it would do is cycle water over the dash temp gauge, which now doesn't see any warmer temps till the thermostat starts to move. I already just started using the ecu temp in the head instead of the one in the pipe so running the car is normal. It quickly jumps to 65 then 80 degrees in 2 cycles on the speco gauge and dash gauge, and then were up to temp. It demonstrates correct function of the thermostat so I'm loathed to change it now. Ended up with some taller, softer springs in the rear, its just so much better. I noticed that I had 2 bent upper rear 4 links so I swapped those out, and clearanced the mount that bent them. Noticed a sweat of diff oil in one spot on the diff housing, no where near the centre, I'm thinking there's a pin hole there to fill up. I decided the car was a little bit poor running electrically, and I got to thinking, I didn't know what plugs were in there. I never did swap the iridium's from the other motor, so as an experiment, I bought a set of NGK R plugs for it from Bursons, for the princely sum of 17 dollars for all 4, and the car is a lot better, a lot more drive-ability, better afrs at low tps, its a lot sweeter running. I guess that's the benefit of using such a high volume engine, they did a lot of r and D, so its hard to kill, and the OEM parts are cheap and plentiful.
  13. Yeah JC is centre red, same as my old ae71 spirit.
  14. Spray your fuel in at the top of the system and the fuel will cool everyting, atomise amazing and yield better performance than just cold air will.
  15. Yes it will be the BW68. Most folks would weld it. Its not a diff that is highly praised despite being pretty tough up to a point. Ive seen one come out from behind a ca18 with smashed axles, so it would be tough enough for na motor thats not too torquey but I would recommend getting it upgraded to something bigger if you want the car to be reliable as possible. Especially considering the more brutal loads transferred without any sort of torque metering of an lsd. Which engine are you playing with?
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