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LittleRedSpirit

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Everything posted by LittleRedSpirit

  1. I've seen so many adds for sale lately priced on potential. Like a stock roughish VK executive with a HSV GTS motor, on a pallet next to it, asking 25k. With a comment like, just needs to be dropped in. lol. Car is valued at 5k, motor at 6k, how do you come up with 25k. People get in too deep, cause its easy to spend if you're an idiot with cash, but idiots cant fix or finish anything. Hows the ae86 on FB marketplace with the full ra65 engine, box and interior, with positive offset wheels asking 25k. Fucking vomit spec. Where I come from people like that get slapped.
  2. Looks like old mate lives in QLD so all that engineer stuff doesn't apply. Just get a mod plate and follow adrs when you build it, and you'll be fine. Thankfully QLD motor trades are deregulated and there's even 6 shires where you dont ever require a roadworthy. My mod plate for 2az86 was about 200 bucks, and it covered engine, suspension and diff, cage and seats.
  3. Quick update. House is half built. Roof is on. Cars been sweet as can be. No real issues to report, just wear and tear from all the roadwork between here and Brisbane. Copped some gravel and rocks from trucks coming in and out of the quarry north of Gympie. Was lucky to not experience much more serious damage. Front bar took the brunt, and ejected the paint. Gave it a wash today. Much overdue.
  4. Sounds like a fun little project. Did you dribble a couple ml of oil into each cylinder to try to lube up any stuck rings while comp testing?
  5. I put it all back together minus the grill and sent it for AC repairs. It had a rubbed through a hose from my big fan that I added to the condenser. I removed the big fan for now, and will replace the 400mm unit with a much more appropriately sized 300mm one. Otherwise its all fixed mechanically now and the AC is 3 degrees C. If I'm being fussy I might grease the steering rack and tie rod ends. The suspension is performing well. Next to no body roll, or pitch and bounce with good shocks in it. The Konis are in the front now dont know if I mentioned. Just need to find someone to spray the top of it now.
  6. Im so not moved by the GR yaris.
  7. Have now done the auto fluid and filter as well as resealing the auto oil pan with a new gasket. Its got new Penrite 85 140 diff oil too. Ive fitted a rear wheel cylinder and bled brakes and fresh fluid right through. I test drove the car and found the front shocks were still in need of doing so I put my Koni Sport adjustables in that I had on the shelf, set 135 degrees back from full stiff. Car feels lovely to drive now, took a good long drive up the highway and it was superb. It now needs the AC fixed, and Im going to hand it over to a painter to redo the roof, bonnnet and boot areas as I dont have the equipment to do that here. Then it will be regretably up for sale.
  8. Ok, there has been much done on this. Been scratching out, rust converting and smoothing out crows feet in the paint. Have removed the power antenna and bought and aftermarket replacement. Have removed rear shocks and purchased a pair of monroe GT Gas shocks for it. Just standard ra65 shocks. Have the rear bumper removed, and Ive been straightening the shell with the heat gun, twisting the corner of the reo straight, and fixing rust in it. Theres a seperate part that mounts the number plate lights inside the skin, it was super rusted out for some reason, and the threaded posts that let you bolt on the skin, well 2 were so rusted they snapped. I drilled them out, replaced them with m6 allen head bolts and ground down a couple nuts to create the stepped mounting they needed and to let me attach them properly. The rusted out part that mounts the lights was then ground off the strip with the threads, and replaced with a piece of zincanneal that I had folded up by levs fabrications here in town. Instead of welding to the surface rusty metal strip that it attaches to, I used a thick gooey epoxy, to seal over any rust in the union between the pieces, stopping cavities that may increase rust problems. They also replaced for me the metal piece that secures the skin all the way accross under the bumper. Mine had been torn away and stretched and was rusty from damage to the bumper anyhow. I never intended to get into the bumper, but I always noticed some suspiciously flaky paint on this lower corner, and in the three years my mate had the car it had started lifting, so when I sanded it back found an old repair, had to remove the bumper to fix the paint there so I just decided to go for it and make it nicer. I redid the blackouts on the bottom with a Upol power can, pretty amazing quality rattle cans those Upol ones. Ive got the arch trims out on the right side, theres no rust in there. Cleaned all underneath it. Pockets are perfect, I repaired one bit of rust under a sill trim, had to just plate over the outer layer and reproduce the square hole for the body clip. Its all filled over painted and has the blackouts redone too. I had the rear screen removed, and repaired the rust that started to come back in the lower right corner. Did a much more thorough job getting any pinholes to be filled with weld, and did great prep with PPG etch primer, filler, sealer and topcoat now. Been buying matched cans from signature refinishing supplies that work great. Have a fairly good sized rust patch just isolated under the drivers door, in the shut of the door itself. Just a fairly simple shaped area that needs to be replated. Bit of a bitch cause I need to remove the door to do it. So the to do list as it stands now is as follows: - Reassemble rear bumper and install. - Repaint roof and bonnet to finish the crows feet repair. - Install the power antenna for the radio. - Install the condenser and new AC o-rings, which I have a couple assortments of thanks to an ebay miss-click. - Put the grill back in. - Change the wheel cylinder on right rear as its leaking, have the part here. - Brake fluid flush and replace. - ATF service and trans filter. Stuff Ive done so far: Waterpump, oil, filter, visual timing chain inspection, new front crank seal, resealed top cover and half moon plugs, replaced all vac lines and deleted the EGR, air pump and emissions crap once and for all, including the metal vac lines array. Resealed and painted the boot seal area. Rust repairs under the rear screen and repainted. Rust repaired the sill. Repaired old crash damage at back bumper. Replaced the top radiator hose. Flushed radiator, new cap as the old one didn't hold pressure, washed out the rad overflow.
  9. I know you all enjoy a good love story, especially when it comes to an RA65. I bought her back, my mate was ready to upgrade so now I own her again. Since I owned her he's done about 30,000ks, its about 142,000 now. It needs a general tidy up. I'm looking at doing the timing chain, waterpump, shocks, some bushings, greasing the rack, and detailing it. Needs a few small touch ups, maybe one or two small rust repairs. Nothing serious. Just going to do the work, then drive it around and try sell it I guess. Jst wanted to get my hands back on it and tidy it up. oh and the AC has stopped working so will also fix that up ASAP. We've already done front brakes and bearings, and the alternator with Medicine mans help while my mate owned it.
  10. Looks awesome Dave, all the better for it. I think youve got your terms backwards with the refrigeration bits, the condenser is in the front of the car, the evaporator is under the dash, unless im learning something. Ride height is perfect yes.
  11. Man its great up here, been making a few friends, I love it. The bank just approved our finance to build starting next month. Weve bought 1.2 hectares, 12,000 sq Metres, thats about 32 Brisbane house blocks, and were just dropping a big 3.5 bed home right in the middle of it, with a 12 x 18 x 4.8 high shed to follow soon after.
  12. I've ordered a replacement Bosch 984 pump. I've rewired the loom for it, and its 25 amp wiring all the way. I reduced the fuse from 30 amp to 20 AMP so that if the wire heats up I will know and it will blow before it burns out the fuel pump. I further shortened the wiring, each circuit is about 1.2metres now, defintely not going to experience voltage drop with that. I also stripped a shitload more paint off under the ground strap where the fuel pumps also ground. I drilled a hole through the boot floor directly above the pumps which also happens to be right below the fuse and relay that powers the fuel system, and applied a toyota grommet to it. If it fucks up now I'm seriously wondering what I could do. Ive wrapped the wires in self closing braided insulation. I shook the old fuel pump out to see if it had contaminants in it, it did have a few bits and pices in it, a few very small bits of rubber debris from the lines, and one concerning steel chunk about 1mm accross. Reading about the pumps, thats not good for them, although it would have just failed outright had that ruined it, not been worse over time while driving. Just to be sure Ive got a new z200 fuel filter to replace too. Im keen to get the pump, the car is ready to just slip it in and drive away, Ive even got the right tools, and equipment there all piled up ready to do the work under the car.
  13. Had the local locksmith fix the boot lock so it opens all on the same key and I dont have to use the popper in the car to open. Way more convienient! Fuel pump is finally dieing, gonna change it before it stops altogether, its dropping to about 1.6kg/cm2 from 4.4kg/cm2 when hot, and the relays are getting to almost 90 degrees. I think its more or less burned out from running with too much voltage drop inthe past. I'm gonna just replace it with another Bosch 984 and rewire it with 2 x 30 amp circuits instead of 2 x 15 amp circuits, and it will hopefully hold the pressure now. I have a good sense for it now, if the car starts to get extended economy and stalls when stopping at the lights I know its going away again, and after a brief while where it was good, its doing what it did before when I realised I had voltage drop. Might even consider a different brand of pump.
  14. Still playing steering. Have found you can buy the rack preload stopper and spring for 35 bucks, so Ive ordered a set for me and a set for a mate that needs a rack and pinion conversion in his t18. Stripped a rack for him and Ive drilled and tapped a grease nipple into it so its easy to grease in car. Waiting for bits to arrive in a few weeks so we can rebuild the rack and fit it up to his car on a ke70 crossmember. Went to a local Harvey Bay meet the other night. Some nice cars and even nicer people up here. Everyone just stoked to be there. All kinds of cars from series 6 rx7, silvia with a built rb25, vk v8 308, stroked ls Holdens, Mazda MPS, Hiluxes, r34 4 door skyline, you name it. People just love cars here and they all seem to get along.
  15. Did some parts ordering for the car. I have found that randomly Toyota now lists the left side internal rack shaft bush, that both my racks need. It was unavailable for years but I was able to order 2 of them 66 each genuine. I also have found the bizarre steering column bush bearing stopper thingo with the delrin case can be ordered : Its NSK 30BSCT01A toyota 45808-20020 but its about 200 bucks. The uni between pinion and steering shaft is also available for about 200 bucks. I ordered some rack boots, a tie rod end and rack ends as well from Autobarn to replace the parts I used up on my repairs last week. Its been pissing rain everywhere here on the eastern seaboard, and my back yard is mush so the car will be sequestered until I can escape the shed without getting bogged again.
  16. Steering was getting sloppy and notchy. Pulled the whole system apart. Rack preload was lacking, so removed the preload adjuster, cleaned as much as possible and regreaesed and ran the grease right through the housing. Replaced a tie rod end. Found that the removable uni joint was worn and notchy. Replaced with a near perfect one. I also removed the column and changed the top bearing, as I had a ke70 one here, and it was the same bearing, and the lower bearing that I can't buy was stripped and regreasesed and put back together. I also found the rack shaft telescopic section was loose, so I reset the length and crimped it some to hold it firmly once again. This was allowing a lot of shaft play. Net result is it all feels great again. The wheel is actually more centered now and even before a wheel alignment the play in the column is gone and the dead zone at centre is removed, and it feels smooth and lubed from lock to lock. One awesome thing, the rack is easy as piss to get out, you can get to all the bolts and it slides out easier than when its under a 4age or 4ac. Steering uni despite the proximity to the motor and slave is all easy to undo and remove. Theres no compromise to serviceablility to have the 2azfe engine there. While the front wheels were off I fitted some hubcentric adapters.
  17. Was able to order some genuine gaskets and seals for the w58, they still sell the complete kit, 54 dollars. I thought it was a good buy.
  18. Just switched over to summer oil, went to HPR 10 over HPR5. It runs fine on 5wt but its a bit warmer up here than in Brisbane so just being cautious with it. 367380ks.
  19. Fitted some new panhard rod, shock absorber and swaybar bushes. Back end was a bit sloppy, feels better now.
  20. Picked up an old neglected w58 steel case transmission at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago. Only cost me 200 bucks but it was full of leaves and grime cause it had the shifter off. Took it home, cleaned it up with a wire brush in preparation for a strip and clean excercise to asses its condition. I had only bought it because it selected every gear and they felt smooth, it turned over like it was still pretty nice inside. I found the words Dellows stamped onto each half of the cases by the steel centre plate. It had had a conversion bellhousing from an old ford 6 cylinder on it, so it must have been sold by dellows originally. So I came to find it was dirty inside the rear and around the shifter. I picked out a lot of crud, like a handful of it, and then split off the rear housing. The two rear most bearings were grimy from muck sitting against them. It had no corrosion inside or on the shafts, the output and input shafts looked new, no end float and still with the blueing sort of finish, once cleaned up. Compared to every box I've had before this one looked great. So off to the gearbox shop, I ordered in the bearings, just got it back ready to use. It owes me about 520 dollars so Im stoked to end up with a steel plate w58 for that kind of spend. It will drop my highway rpm at 100kph from 2820 to 2580rpm with the taller 5th gear. No other ratios vary from my current w57. Best part is, I started looking into the speedo drive combo I need. I know my current w57 box came from a car with a 3.58 final drive, and the 3.58 final drive cars typically use a 33-11 or 32-11 speedo drive. The w58 I have found already has the 33-11 gears in it. Its an older type manual speedo w58. According to my research it might have been from an MZ11 or MZ12, an early MA61, or a late MA70. A few cars Ive looked into: RA65 33-11 speedo drive for 3.58:1 final drive SX80 32-10 speedo drive for 3.9:1 final drive. GX80 35-10 speedo drive for 4.3 final drive. LX80 32-11 speedo drive for 3.58 final drive. RT142 32-11 speedo drive for unknown diff ratio (borg parts not in Partsfan MA70 early 35-10 /4.3 MA70 late 33-11/3.727 JZA80 NA 33-10 electric/4.083 JZA 70 33-10/4.1 GA70 1GFE 32-10 3.909 GA70 1GGEU 1GGTE 33-9/4.5556 GZ10 35-10/4.3 33-10/4.1 31-10/3.0 MZ11MZ12 33-11/3.7 RA63 18RGEU 33-10/4.1 GA61 32-10/3.9 35-10/4.3 33-9/4.556 34-10/4.3 TA63 TA64 TURBO 33-10/4.1 MA61 33-11 AND 31-10 BOTH SUIT 3.7 LX90 31-10/3.7 SX60 33-11/3.7 SX90 32-11/3.583 Can infer the rt142 diff ratio would be also 3.583 from this as thats what its speedo drive suits.
  21. I love this car. Had a great drive down to Bribie and Back for a golfing holiday. It went flawlessly the whole trip. Just wish I had AC fitted.
  22. Yes I've been watching his series, and chatting with him. Hes doing it his own way, which is cool. It is a good guide for a plate, and he just put out a video about making an adapter to sr manifold as well thats quite good. One or two things about that gearbox choice seem a bit inelegant to me, such as the starter position going into the firewall, and the slave on top where there is no clearance, however I think he is making it race only high power turbo build so he has a diffeent set of mechaincal outcomes in mind than I.
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