LittleRedSpirit

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Everything posted by LittleRedSpirit

  1. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Hello. As some people know, I've been interested for a long time in fitting a 2azfe to an ae71 or ae86. It's something I've given a lot of thought to, but now I've made some progress and would like to use this as a place to collect my thoughts/information that I learn along the way so I don't forget what I did or how I did it. So far I've collected a lot of what I should need. I have: 2azfe 2azfe clutch, flywheel, inlet, tb, loom, coils, alternator, starter, exhaust manifold/cat, and fwd transfer case. 2azfe lightweight pulley kit. 2azfe inlet manifold flange from ross machine racing. Various starters to suit rwd config. Y and S bellhousings to suit w55-w58. W57 from a RT142 Corona. Unknown factors. Bellhousing/starter/flywheel compatability and alignment. Source for rwd mounts if any exists. Clutch combination. How to fit a starter when it has no provision for front facing starter. Sump design, lowest point drainage and oil pickup design for rwd. Engine bay fitment/ bonnet clearance. Shifter position. Why? Its the same weight as a 4age, even with the w box and centre of gravity is more than likely improved. 800cc extra capacity, with a possibility of up to 2.7 litres with a stroker kit. Standard power output of 125 KW and 220NM at the flywheel. Same as a stock smallport gze more or less, but from a motor with low end torque and no lag or Boost related issues. Why not, I've seen one done before and I believe it is still unfinshed. Its in the US and I've only ever found one photo of it. Some Formula Drift guy is using it in an ae86 one day apparently, but other than that its a rare idea. Its a very common engine. With boost its capable of 450-500KW with the right built engine. Its not as much as a 2jz but its a lot from an alloy lightweight motor, it weighs half a 2jz. Heard of stock bottom ends getting 400 hp before exploding from the boost. Cheap performance parts. Sub $500 CP/JE forged pistons. Sub $500 forged rods. BC Cams are cheap, Supertec parts for them too, lots of good gear, and 11:1 pistons if you want. I initially looked at the motor to see where the starter could go and what bell housing would fit. The S housing meets the meaty part where the S starter used to be on the 2azfe block. However cutting that metal away would remove the engine number. Also this would have the slave on the passenger/exhaust side. The y housing is the answer, places the starter in a spot where you can hack a lot of block away as its just spare sandwich plate material that can be removed. I stitch drilled and chiselled the alloy out then smoothed it over with a flap on the grinder. It also locates the fork under the drivers/inlet side. A 2az is like a 4ag it has inlet on the right and outlet on the left of the car. The stock 2azfe flywheel is just able to fit in the Y bell housing as well. The Y bell housing locates on 2 studs and centres perfect, and you can redrill a few bolts to make it bolt up no big deal. The bell housing sits a bit rotated on the motor, but this results in no more than an 8 degree lean to the exhaust side which adds inlet room, assists with starter vs steering clearance and lowers the motor in the car as well. The other motor patterns that are close are vz and mz and gr. all v6 patterns. Y, 4Ag rwd, or E starters will work, depending on how you flare the bolt holes in your bellhousing, I'm sure that a 22re one will be very close also. Y requires an adapter plate 12mm thick. E requires only a steel sandwich plate. The ringgear teeth on the 2azfe flywheel need a file taken to them or the gear spun around to take the starter from the front. So with a bit of fiddling I had a starter tested and working. Next was a test fit. The thing fits like a glove, the depressions in the firewall help and its all good, heaps of room for an inlet aswell, and the ports miss the booster and clutch master as they point abov that line, so there is 400mm of runner there if you like. The second from rearmost w box shifter is perfect for it, we made a crossmember to suit it, by just using a stock w box crossmember from an rt142 that came with the box and just moving the mounting plate 30mm. I bolts right into the ae86 chassis with a redrill on one pair of holes, which gives you 4 bolts crossmember to body, and 4 bolts mount to crossmember then 4 bolts mount to box aswell. Should be strong as hell. I have templated the engine mount components aswell, and we will be making them from steel. My friend is arranging the metal at his work, and next weekend we can finish them off and hope fully have a strongly mounted motor ready for manifolds, wiring, a cooling system and sump. Some pictures of it all.
  2. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Ill put a little drip rail in to drain water away at some point. RWC is booked for tomorrow morning. Ive done the knob, padding and the bonnet now so theres no reason to leave it off the road and let the rego tick away. I got some wheel arch trim and put rubber around the bottom of the cap, its looking pretty pro now. Gonna treat her to a nice detailing today and then I might even fit the windscreen trim since no water has come in for months. Bit of paint going wierd on the right rear arch lip, but thats happened before and can be polished out.
  3. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Plus water runs into it when it rains so a wider slot increases that.
  4. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    I had considered that but I liked it better swept back at the rear. It was an excercise in minimisation, and I think at its widest point, the cover is a bit too wide, so I liked it better swept back to minimise the size of it.
  5. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

  6. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Bit of a design for the bonnet cap.
  7. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Pic dump Got a wide assortment of spare ae86 interior stuff. This is only half of it. Bloke called Bill came around to get parts in this ra65. Another rare bird in great condition like the one I just sold. Visited swamp garage one arvo and helped do a kouki to zenki diff conversion to get his Kouki trueno coupe running again. If anyone's looking for something awesome to watch on YouTube, I can highly recommend Juicebox for you. Its a kinda fast paced Video blog full of Irish AE86 and JDM car shenanigans. Epic stuff. I binge watched 18 episodes when I first found it. This is the sealant I use on everything from petrochemical fuel lines, vac fittings and water fittings and everything in between, you just buy it at trade link, its great stuff. Beats any auto sealant product by a mile. You can see the drains I added to let the water that collects there run away either side of the bolt. A couple photos of exactly how clean the 2azfe is inside after 79000ks. Lets hear it for oil changes. Heres the roll cage padding I need to clear the defect. $55 at Clark rubber. So here's the work I did to get a vacuum feed from each port that is separate from idle air feeds. I also port matched each mani to adapter join with a brake hone to make it even smoother. Killed the 9 dollar china brake hone but the ports look terrific.
  8. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    I'm not thrilled about an offset bulge, I would rather have something symmetrical, but we will see I guess. Doesn't have to be vented.
  9. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    So I've been looking for some likely candidates for bonnet skin, maybe from a 7x series cruiser. I'm not sure how high it rises but I'm sure it would be larger than the ae86 bonnet and it would be flat enough overall. Plus Toyota. I'm open to suggestions if anyone has one. ae86 bonnet gap is 1320 rear and 1270 front. Its 1100 of flat panel on top and about 25mm extra to the front edge at the sides. I'm not sure how much natural curvature the stock bonnet has left to right, because my floppy fibreglass one is pretty flat across the middle in front of the cap as the cap forces it that way under its weight. If I put a straight edge across the guards left to right, I need 75mm of rise at engine and 88mm at TPS for safe clearance, which is the highest point of the manifold. Using my angle gauge I calculated that if I add 9 degrees of downwards tilt to the itb adaptor then I can get the tip of the throttles 30mm lower before I get to a safe gap below throttle 4 trumpet. So if I were to do that, I would only have a rise of 58mm at tps required to clear it safely. I'm definitely not going to shorten the inlet, so I need to make it work. I've always wanted to try an in between setting with my throttle plate location. The company makes 50 and 80 mm spacers for the kit but only had stock of the 80mm when I purchased. I was thinking I might design the new adaptor to be 85 not 35mm long and use the 100mm trumpets not the 37mm ones. All the performance gains of this inlet is from the port length, and I would like to try a more balanced setup with the longer trumpets and slightly shorter ports before I feel I know enough about the engine. It had such strong bottom end before but it didn't feel happy up top. Now its definitely happy to rev and it still drives well down low. I dont want to lose the revvy feel of it but I also wonder if gains can be made everywhere by having a better trumpet design.
  10. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Its good to have something minor any cop can spot, so they get their fix of reaming your ass-hole without picking on anything more difficult for you to fix. Funnily enough the previous Police made a big song and dance up about needing the mod papers in the car, so I found them, laminated them and she didn't even take the time to read them. I will read the code of practice and get back to you. Finally, someone who gets the mad max vibe of the bonnet, and after its off the road. The problem is that, and I'm quoting the police, "If you have an accident in that thing it will shatter into a million pieces and the debris will injure bystanders." Yes, that's the stupidest reason you could give as an explanation. I then of course asked "How would an adr approved bonnet be any different if its made of the same materials?" and she just didn't seem to care what the actual reality of the physical world was, she just wanted a piece of paper to trust because bureaucracy. QLD laws have pretty clear statements about what to do with your bonnet scoops. Basically my big alloy cap would be fine if it was fitted to a steel bonnet, aside from the hole in it, which she also chipped me about. The interaction had all the hallmarks of how you would stereo typically be spoken to by someone with no personal confidence or intelligence. Someone who derives all their confidence from a gun and badge. For example, she went off down some specific rabbit hole about roll cage padding, I asked a clarifying question, to which she said "I'm not a mechanic, OK." in a certain tone. So you want me to sit through the long winded, poorly worded shit you speak, but I cant clarify because ego/lack of background knowledge/ignorance. I've already bought some roll cage padding, black this time, not blue, and I will find the H knob and put it on. That just leaves the bonnet. Need to get time to see Craig, and then I need to find a wrecker who you can still explore in Brisbane, all the U pull it ones are closed now. I think I might have to go to Tingalpa to browse a wrecker now.
  11. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Yeah I have the label from a 5 speed knob to glue on but I cant find it, so Ill have to find it or another. The padding is about 50 bucks to sort. I'm gonna buy a rusty bonnet off just jdm and see how I need to hack it up. I'm even considering re-skinning it with a bulged panel, but Ill have to see. Wondering if I can find a bigger bonnet at a wrecker and trim it down and re-skin mine with it. Nothings off the table really if it passes inspection.
  12. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Bonnet, H pattern not on my knob, and they want more roll cage padding.
  13. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

  14. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    So it seems I was too stupid too learn from being stopped the other day and this morning I got pulled over by the traffic squad and received a defect. WTB stock Levin Bonnet.
  15. LittleRedSpirit

    Aisin Carby Alternative

    I also know of 4sfi engine from sx80 import that had single point efi and a very carby looking setup aswell with I think the injector in the neck of the throttle. Possible boosted option?
  16. LittleRedSpirit

    What Grinds My Gears.

    Thanks for the update. I'm happy that shes on a positive trajectory. All the best to you and the family.
  17. LittleRedSpirit

    Ben's 4A-Ge Ae71

    Just take your time bud, it will be worth it. I wished I took more care when I built my first ae71. It was sick but it could have been better sorted. Nothing worse than progressively doing over stuff you could have nailed first time around. There's plenty of wiring gurus on rollaclub, I'm sure if you ask people will answer.
  18. LittleRedSpirit

    Ke70 coilovers

    No need to buy ae86 lca. Its the same as ke70.
  19. LittleRedSpirit

    Ke70 coilovers

    Yes, you need the ke70 strut tops though so dont buy ae86 cambertops be sure and buy the ones for ke70. You may need to measure the setup you have, I know TTT does a lot of different top plates depending on market and year.
  20. LittleRedSpirit

    Ke70 coilovers

    KE70 strut goes in the bin. Inserts are smaller than every good thing out there, you have to have ae86 struts as a minimum. AE86 suspension is completely compatible with ke70. Personally I prefer ra40 struts as they are like ae86 struts except you have a bigger bearing, and brake. You can buy Wilwood kits for ra40 strut from TTT if you want big brakes. A lot of people use xt130 strut, they are much like ra40 but without a bolt on caliper mount, its cast to the strut leg. Takes more work to modify the standard brakes, but there is a twin piston caliper on wagons or there's a Hilux 4 piston caliper that fits with Peugeot rotors if you search. This requires some machining on the end of the cast stalks. Dont use the ra60/sa63/rt142/ra65 or st141 strut its too odd for the chassis, and it can never quite feel right. You could also use any coil over that's built for ae86. If you like that low life, then look for something that's based off of ae92 length strut insert, which is the same as Tokico HTS, short stroke TRD, or the like. I personally had coil overs this short once on a previous car and I would categorise the ride quality as unsuitable for Australian roads. When I had the chance to build something for another car, I used the longer sw20 mr2 front strut insert and the HSD weld on 5kg coil over kit. Its ideal for what I wanted. Legal clearance, a safe amount of droop, and a car that can handle the bumps and potholes we have installed in our highways up here in QLD. I also used TTT needle bearing top hat spacers so that I didn't hear my springs adjust as I turned in carparks. This combined with sticky tires and a type 2 torsen lsd is a great traction setup, and I can run a height range thats anywhere from on its nuts to slightly lowered over stock. If your interests are drift. Then You would want it a lil stiffer than me, lower, with a stiff as possible rear swaybar, swap the torsen lsd for a clutch type 2 way so aggressive pedalling will equal more drift. The torsen looks for the most traction and sends power there, the 2 way more or less, once a certain power input is surpassed, will just burn 2 wheels and give you the feeling of a controllable burn on the wheels as opposed to just putting the power to the road. You might end up adding caster to make high speed initiations easier. More tyre pressure will get you sideways faster but limit your control when your there. Im rambling, damn holidays...
  21. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Got the cable and throttle feeling nice. I still need to find some screw on nipples to add as vacuum taps. Then I can sync it all perfecto. Im also thinking about installing hard lines for the idle air feeds. Spent yesterday helping a mate fix the ra65 he bought off me. Rang up saying battery is kaput. I picked one up at sca and went over there. Dropped it in, started the car, and tested the voltage. Just the same 12.2 the battery had, so out it and the alternator came. Then I called Medicine man, and I shot up to see him where he tested the alternator and found the stator was burned out. I looked around at the options overnight, and the easiest thing was to just get the stator out of the 4sfe alternator on the parts car. Medicine man popped it back together and I went and refitted it with a charged original battery. It seems perfect again. I was also able to return the battery to sca and the total repair simply cost a part I had lying around and some skilled oversight from medicine man. Winning.
  22. LittleRedSpirit

    What Grinds My Gears.

    Im glad shes stable. Were thinking of you and your family. Rollaclub family for life.
  23. LittleRedSpirit

    BLZBUB has another 4AGE.

    You're a steam punk living in a yuppie world.
  24. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    I removed the entire itb system yesterday for some adjustments. There was a spot behind the inlet manifold flange that held water when you washed it, so I drilled some drain holes in the flange. I also flared a couple of mount holes on things so I can correctly align and match the ports and throttle butterfly centrelines. While it was aprt I die ground the bottom mm off of the brake booster barb that stuck into the port. I also drilled all but the last mm of some extra vacuum points, I will have to find some 3mm nipples, drill and tap to suit, so that I can get a vacuum signal without having to muck around with much. I currently need to add some T pieces into the idle lines, but I'm suspicious of these as they might not seal too well and might hold back the quality of the balancing I can do. Best to leave the idle air lines as they are and take separate vacuum signals from a set of equally located ports. As I re assembled the manifold I did it very carefully to make sure I could get all the butterflies as tightly closed as possible, and it worked out great. I haven't checked the sync yet but I have the lowest idle yet, I had to open up the controller 6 points of duty cycle at idle to get a strong idle. Its also a challenge to get a perfect return to the zero point, mostly because of cable drag. The ke70 throttle cable would ideally need to be a foot longer to lessen the kinking required.
  25. LittleRedSpirit

    Oil pump failure

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ELECTRIC-BYPASS-HEATER-VALVE-KIT-Heat-Buick-Cadillac-Chevy-Ford-Dodge-NEW-D83/401022119552?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 On sale right now Banjo.