LittleRedSpirit

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Everything posted by LittleRedSpirit

  1. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    Go the Dattos!
  2. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    OK, I have a had a couple of drives on the new motor. Feels freer and a touch less fresh and tight than the newer engine, but not much really. Still pretty awesome. I have completed the oil cooler setup. I went with a 25 row oil cooler - $88 generic that was the same as the branded ones but half the price. Speedflow -10 lines, so 16mm roughly. Mishimoto Thermostatic sandwich plate with 185 degree F thermostat. Couple of m20 to dash 10 adapters in the plate with sealing washers. Made my own speedflow style lines from a mixture of stealth and speedflow fittings. Went with the all black Nylon Braid hose with r6 rubber lining. Needed 2x 90 degrees at the cooler, and 2x 45 degrees off the take-off plate. Took it for a test drive, and seems good, oil pressure takes about 1 second more to build up than before, but the cooler stays fullof oil the way it sits so its minimised. Total cost - Cooler $88 Takeoff plate - $199 Washers m20 - $1.5 M20 to dash 10 adapters x 2 $38 Lines (3m) and speedflow/stealth fittings x 4 - $238 Total - $564.5 Mounted it off a little bracket I found, cut down and attached to the headlight bracket. Also used a threaded female m8 to 6 adapter post as the mount on the lower crossbar. For how strong it is, I dont think I could have used less metal to fit it.
  3. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Hello. As some people know, I've been interested for a long time in fitting a 2azfe to an ae71 or ae86. It's something I've given a lot of thought to, but now I've made some progress and would like to use this as a place to collect my thoughts/information that I learn along the way so I don't forget what I did or how I did it. So far I've collected a lot of what I should need. I have: 2azfe 2azfe clutch, flywheel, inlet, tb, loom, coils, alternator, starter, exhaust manifold/cat, and fwd transfer case. 2azfe lightweight pulley kit. 2azfe inlet manifold flange from ross machine racing. Various starters to suit rwd config. Y and S bellhousings to suit w55-w58. W57 from a RT142 Corona. Unknown factors. Bellhousing/starter/flywheel compatability and alignment. Source for rwd mounts if any exists. Clutch combination. How to fit a starter when it has no provision for front facing starter. Sump design, lowest point drainage and oil pickup design for rwd. Engine bay fitment/ bonnet clearance. Shifter position. Why? Its the same weight as a 4age, even with the w box and centre of gravity is more than likely improved. 800cc extra capacity, with a possibility of up to 2.7 litres with a stroker kit. Standard power output of 125 KW and 220NM at the flywheel. Same as a stock smallport gze more or less, but from a motor with low end torque and no lag or Boost related issues. Why not, I've seen one done before and I believe it is still unfinshed. Its in the US and I've only ever found one photo of it. Some Formula Drift guy is using it in an ae86 one day apparently, but other than that its a rare idea. Its a very common engine. With boost its capable of 450-500KW with the right built engine. Its not as much as a 2jz but its a lot from an alloy lightweight motor, it weighs half a 2jz. Heard of stock bottom ends getting 400 hp before exploding from the boost. Cheap performance parts. Sub $500 CP/JE forged pistons. Sub $500 forged rods. BC Cams are cheap, Supertec parts for them too, lots of good gear, and 11:1 pistons if you want. I initially looked at the motor to see where the starter could go and what bell housing would fit. The S housing meets the meaty part where the S starter used to be on the 2azfe block. However cutting that metal away would remove the engine number. Also this would have the slave on the passenger/exhaust side. The y housing is the answer, places the starter in a spot where you can hack a lot of block away as its just spare sandwich plate material that can be removed. I stitch drilled and chiselled the alloy out then smoothed it over with a flap on the grinder. It also locates the fork under the drivers/inlet side. A 2az is like a 4ag it has inlet on the right and outlet on the left of the car. The stock 2azfe flywheel is just able to fit in the Y bell housing as well. The Y bell housing locates on 2 studs and centres perfect, and you can redrill a few bolts to make it bolt up no big deal. The bell housing sits a bit rotated on the motor, but this results in no more than an 8 degree lean to the exhaust side which adds inlet room, assists with starter vs steering clearance and lowers the motor in the car as well. The other motor patterns that are close are vz and mz and gr. all v6 patterns. Y, 4Ag rwd, or E starters will work, depending on how you flare the bolt holes in your bellhousing, I'm sure that a 22re one will be very close also. Y requires an adapter plate 12mm thick. E requires only a steel sandwich plate. The ringgear teeth on the 2azfe flywheel need a file taken to them or the gear spun around to take the starter from the front. So with a bit of fiddling I had a starter tested and working. Next was a test fit. The thing fits like a glove, the depressions in the firewall help and its all good, heaps of room for an inlet aswell, and the ports miss the booster and clutch master as they point abov that line, so there is 400mm of runner there if you like. The second from rearmost w box shifter is perfect for it, we made a crossmember to suit it, by just using a stock w box crossmember from an rt142 that came with the box and just moving the mounting plate 30mm. I bolts right into the ae86 chassis with a redrill on one pair of holes, which gives you 4 bolts crossmember to body, and 4 bolts mount to crossmember then 4 bolts mount to box aswell. Should be strong as hell. I have templated the engine mount components aswell, and we will be making them from steel. My friend is arranging the metal at his work, and next weekend we can finish them off and hope fully have a strongly mounted motor ready for manifolds, wiring, a cooling system and sump. Some pictures of it all.
  4. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Fuck bonnets.
  5. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Got the new engine all sorted and rwd converted. Its installed and running, just bled the cooling system. Seems just like the old motor so far. Was able to just use the ecu temp sender in the head, instead of the one in the big outflow pipe. The plug reaches perfect and there's plenty of room, unless you want to run a heater. Otherwise its much the same except that the heater plug in the back of the head is a bigger size, seems Toyota ran a different sized hole in there on the other motor. It tapped perfect to an m16 on the first engine, this one needed to be m18. Had to dash over to auto-barn Virginia and buy a cap yesterday to close it up. Every hose clamp I undid was redone with a new Norma clamp. Still have to fix the broken idle controller plug, its taped on. Loctited all the engine mount to block bolts. Used ARP flywheel bolts, pro series 200000psi rated. Re used the spigot bearing and throw out bearings as they were just fine. Did a better job routing and securing the fuel feed and breather lines. Bent it over where its supposed to go and got it into the stock mounts, as I had some of the little rubber spacers saved up from a jdm ae86 that had 8mm feed line. Changed the efi feed hose out as it needed to be longer. Took the rail and injectors out as a set and put them in the current motor. Figured this would make the tune as accurate as possible. Tweaked the front bar to lessen the gappy look created by the shitty front right chassis rail. Pulled the rad support a bit so the headlights lined up better. Depressingly found a 20 cent patch of rust each side coming through in the bay. The classic spot where they always get rusty at the lower inside area of the strut towers. I think once the other motor is built and sitting there at 11:1, I'll have to take this engine out and fix it all properly, tug the rail out, fix the rust, the front lower crossbar is a bit sad also. Not rusty, just flogged and scabby. Car looks 8/10 from the top, and about 4/10 from underneath. It really needs flipping over and going over properly some day. I think that will have to wait till after I buy a house and build a shed though.
  6. LittleRedSpirit

    Engine and electric issues.

    Epic.
  7. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    A few photos that would help people with a 2az conversion.
  8. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Pulled the engine today. Ports were very clean. Head was clean and sludge free. Left the trans in the car, and found it much easier than pulling both, all the bellhousing bolts are easy to get to, and the starter just rests to the side. Started rwding the new motor. Fitted the top cover, fuel rail, heater line, and thermostat housing. I think Im going to paint a few things while its apart and re route a couple of things. Only broke one thing, the idle controller plug crumbled in my hand. Its absolutely worth every cent to get an engine leveller. So much safer and easier to remove an engine.
  9. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Does anyone have a metal lathe in Brisbane? I have a minor turning job to do to adjust the dimensions of my oil sandwhich plate bolt.
  10. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Took a spin up to Bribie Island. Wheel alignment seems good, albeit with wheel slightly to the left, but not annoying and near enough to centre. After mostly around town driving, and the squirt on the highway up to Bribie, it averaged 10.25klm per litre.
  11. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    and a priceless ae86 halfcut on top...
  12. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

  13. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    Left, Trivia, thats Trevs old man scrapping it.
  14. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Hahah you bet, she sits in the car when Im tuning, so I guess the answer is yes!
  15. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Car handles poorly since being lowered, only in that I can feel excess toe out, and its climbing out of ruts in the road. I think Im just going to adjust it since I cant get to the mechanic this week. Ani is a bout a month older now that shot was a few weeks ago. This is a week or two ago.
  16. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    Red thing was really good if you wanted to meet lots of new people.
  17. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    There was another cruise on a rainy foggy day but only three people showed up and it was a really fun one, but not sure if the video is still on youtube but Ive already said too much. There was also that one where des showed up in a falcon wagon and we went up nebo.
  18. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    The dinner was October 2010, and the cruise was 11/11/2007.
  19. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

    Heres mine
  20. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Yes we should, but I dont have enough room without the big black bonnet. To do that with the steel bonnet Id have to make a different adapter plate and pivot the inlet down another 8 degrees. Im most excited about dyno tuning the car again, or at least running it up to see how its going. Driving it the other day, I went tps100 to redline from very low revs, and hit the limiter once not too hard as I shifted, the car pulled hard gear to gear but I sensed the limiter came in a bit low, logs reflected this, as a bit over 6000 the afrs went funny as if on limiter. My limiter is 6700, it seemed to come on at around 6100, so Ill have to inspect my settings and see if its correct. Theres no engine protection that would cause an early rev limit, unless the logs just failed to capture the data and the tacho was reading very low in the dash, which is a possibility, as it falls behind a bit at top revs. Needs more investigation at a test and tune I think. Theres an overtemp and overboost rev limit, but unless the ecu had a momentary high fluctuation that triggered this, I cant really explain it. Its never had an issue before. When you break your weldiing helmets headband and also are a farmer at heart, you logically staple it to a trucker cap.
  21. LittleRedSpirit

    Kicking it, old school

  22. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Fuel consumption is good still. Im almost 300 still a bit above 1/4 left. Used to get about 265 to this point about town. Been online shopping this morning for oil cooler parts. Ive bought a cheap 25 row cooler, since its the same as you can buy everywhere branded or not. I have purchased the mishimoto sandwich plate adapter with 185f (85c) thermostat. Ive also bought the fittings to attach the lines to the plate. I need to get it all installed and design the lines and their routing once its all situated. Saw the MCM ls1 kingswood at Strathpine SCA. Saw myself and my car in the background of the skid factory video about all Japanese classic day. Threw in photo of the relocated fpr. Cool cat came over and put a kamei lip on a tarago.
  23. LittleRedSpirit

    What Grinds My Gears.

    Kids on Facebook selling gearboxes stood on the bellhousing face. Kids on facebook selling mint k boxes for 350 stood on their end. Bah.
  24. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Haven't quite got it where I want it with open loop yet, so I'm not ready to drop it in closed loop and sail off into the sunset. I log every other drive, and run the wideband 24/7. On the previous 2 weekends, ever the tinkerer, I continued to work on things. Fuel system mainly. After hearing a throwaway comment about fuel pressure regs buzzing, and transferring that to the body as vibration if rigid mounted on "the skid factory", I decided it was time to bolt the reg to the front of the motor instead, which I did. Not to stop there, I found a nipple in a vacuum test kit to replace the one that unscrewed and fell out of the reg, which prevented me from using vacuum reference previously. I hooked it up and tested, it was right on spec. I also inspected and rerouted some fuel lines, they could still be neater, but I'm confident now its all had a tonne of heat cycles and its kinda sitting where it sits, I've mounted a few things better and insulated some other things. I've heard too many stories of cars burning up. I also got under the car where the pumps are and wrapped and covered any line that had any proximity to an edge or surface that could, in time compromise the hoses and leak fuel. Not pretty stuff but pretty important. After putting the vac signal back to the fpr, I have had to richen up the first few rows of the map, and it seems the top of the map is a touch richer. I've got a bit of a lean spot at 6percent tps and below. I seem to get one little lean spot about 2300, one about 2700 and one about 2900. Its odd, I'm playing with timing and I've smoothed it out, and it was a bit lean, but its a bugger because it takes about 2 percent tps to maintain light acceleration so you end up in the annoying map a lot. I cant see anything weird in the logs except for fluttering afrs which makes me think its a fuel atomisation thing at low throttle openings and load. Might try to filter map sensor, because the lean jumps seem to correspond with slight increases in manifold vacuum.
  25. LittleRedSpirit

    The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Yes I was well impressed with the turnout, a Toyota always wins peoples choice. Not bad for a Mazda show.