LittleRedSpirit

So I decided to tighten up the rear brakes, they were getting sloppy. The usual routine is to remove the drums and vacuum out all the dust, and then brake clean and adjust the shoes till its ever so fiddly to slip the drum on freely. Its generally only needed when the pedal starts to feel shit from needing to move so much fluid for the rears, as it is I guess with most of these cars. I was able to click each side adjuster 6 times to find the correct shoe adjustment. Seems like they wore evenly, but a lot also, the friction material is about 1/3 gone. Handbrake has gone from about 4 clicks to 2. Only problem to report is the left wheel cylinder leaks for some reason, so I dropped by Bursons and ordered that and a new rack boot, as the one closest the headers has split and needs swapping out. As a matter of interest in pedal feel adjustment, I went through some parts boxes to see what I had lying around to play with to adjust brake feel. I found I had the JDM disk style and ADM Drum style brake valves and splitters, so I stripped and cleaned them up. Inside I found the spring area was very much a holding cell for any muck thats travelling through the lines. Both devices, the disk and drum valves were full of contaminated crud when I opened them up, so I cleaned them both up and bagged all the bits for storage in case I use a disk rear end some day. I also had a spare ae86 brake booster of unknown condition connected to those bits, so I stripped the Master and lines off it, and I wire brushed all the corrosion and scale off of it, masked it, etch primed with this intensely great PPG Protec Etch pro product, and then painted it satin black with my touch up gun. Result looked so good I really hoped it was working, so I looked up all kinds of test procedures, and it passed them all. A bit surprising since it looked like it came from a halfcut that sat on Fukishima Docks for 2 years. That's now been wrapped up in a soft old shirt, bagged and put away for a rainy day, or if I ever buy a ke70 again. After all that the pedal felt completely decent after the rear brakes were adjusted, so I didn't fit any of it, but at least I know what I have now, and its stored properly, and ready if needed. Engine wise, I'm very happy with it. It really appreciated the new plugs and some road tuning after, the ones that came out had some pitting on the centre electrodes, they were Denso, so likely the original spark plug for the engine. When removed they were not fouled, they were that nice even olivine grey colour you get when god loves gasoline. Their condition was even too, with all cylinders fairing fairly equally. I made a global fuel correction between the 2 phases of the engine as the ports 1 and 4 have the slightest bend in them, and the ports to 2 and 3 are straighter right through, so I added 1 percent fuel to cylinders 2 and 3 as a test and found idle afrs to be more notably more stable. I dont know if its just anecdotal, but it seems to work and feel correct, its only 1 percent. I had tried as high as 3 percent but found it made a couple extra pops when you went to overrun, but it sounds clean with the 1 point addition, and the torque is strong feeling along with it. It loves the cold air this time of year too. I want to get a crew together and go to the drags soon. I think I can do an NA 2369cc 13 second pass.

Looks pretty even across each cylinder, do you know the cause?

Doh isn't that always the way. Good to see you dropping in.

I've got some parts on the way so I can make an even longer throttle cable. KE70 cable is just a little short of the length I need, since my throttle cracker pulls towards the exhaust side of the bay. I've got a Teflon lined Venhill kit coming with 2.35m of cable outer. 2.6m of inner 2mm braid, adjusters and Ill make a cable from that with the ends from the stock ae86 cable which is a borderline too short for anything length. Its actually a clutch kit, but it comes with the cable that has a 6 diameter x 10mm cylinder cast onto the engine side end, a slight increase over my stock throttle cable with its thickness, 1.8mm to 2mm, and the little screw lock fitting to set the length under the dash. I think Ill work out the length required and just make it on a bench to the same spec as the ke70 one, but with an extra 30 or 40cm length to smooth out the turns in my set-up. The man issue is that is you dont let off the throttle kind of abruptly, it returns to not quite all the way closed, and you have to tickle the pedal to make it drop the rpm right off to idle. Just a bit sick of doing that although it just makes you practice heel to in every situation as the heel toe release is abrupt enough to make it find the stop. Hopefully this new set-up has some more gradual bends and less cable drag.

Been tracing a coolant leak that started occurring. I removed the heater circuit after seeing coolant run from under that, but it turned out to be the bung in the old heater hole behind the head not being tightened up fully. I must have left it cracked to bleed out air and forgot to tighten it up. I looked over how the cooling system works, due to there being an internal bypass the heater circuit isn't needed, so Ill probably leave it out until such time as I decide to fit a heater core. All it would do is cycle water over the dash temp gauge, which now doesn't see any warmer temps till the thermostat starts to move. I already just started using the ecu temp in the head instead of the one in the pipe so running the car is normal. It quickly jumps to 65 then 80 degrees in 2 cycles on the speco gauge and dash gauge, and then were up to temp. It demonstrates correct function of the thermostat so I'm loathed to change it now. Ended up with some taller, softer springs in the rear, its just so much better. I noticed that I had 2 bent upper rear 4 links so I swapped those out, and clearanced the mount that bent them. Noticed a sweat of diff oil in one spot on the diff housing, no where near the centre, I'm thinking there's a pin hole there to fill up. I decided the car was a little bit poor running electrically, and I got to thinking, I didn't know what plugs were in there. I never did swap the iridium's from the other motor, so as an experiment, I bought a set of NGK R plugs for it from Bursons, for the princely sum of 17 dollars for all 4, and the car is a lot better, a lot more drive-ability, better afrs at low tps, its a lot sweeter running. I guess that's the benefit of using such a high volume engine, they did a lot of r and D, so its hard to kill, and the OEM parts are cheap and plentiful.

Yeah JC is centre red, same as my old ae71 spirit.

Spray your fuel in at the top of the system and the fuel will cool everyting, atomise amazing and yield better performance than just cold air will.

Yes it will be the BW68. Most folks would weld it. Its not a diff that is highly praised despite being pretty tough up to a point. Ive seen one come out from behind a ca18 with smashed axles, so it would be tough enough for na motor thats not too torquey but I would recommend getting it upgraded to something bigger if you want the car to be reliable as possible. Especially considering the more brutal loads transferred without any sort of torque metering of an lsd. Which engine are you playing with?

For which diff? Borg Warner. Its called a BW68. Nothing seems available. If you have a T diff there's midget racecars in us that use T series Zenki, and have mini spools available.

They can buy a new window reg but its 3 weeks plus ex Japan so Im just waiting for that to come in. Drove to Goldy with a mate in this and played Royal Pines Gold Course twice. Bloody top weekend. Car went good. Put it onto closed loop, and it went nice and smooth. Only issue was its so low I'm about 20mm off the bump stops. Add in the spare, basic tools, two golf bags, luggage and two dudes, and you find you dont really have suspension. That said, I found it really cruisy and comfy on the highway.

Ive got approval now for the repairs to the door, and window regulator, that were damaged in the attack. I also ran over something so they will check out under the car and see also. I just had the rear section of the exhaust remade with a 2.5 inch Magnaflow hi flow catalytic converter, resonator just before the diff, and the same muffler and tip. Main reason being because there was some tension in the pipe because of how the engine has been repositioned over time, especially cause the gearbox crossmember mounts the gearbox as high as possible, and also now that the car is lower than ever, I was having issues with the exhaust hitting the diff and panhard rod. That now has a reshaped area, still made with mandrel bends, that gives the clearance needed. Havent noticed a difference with the cat as far as power goes, but the car seems a bit smoother where it used to have reversion. Will have to see how the afrs go and make some changes as needed. I did a fair bit of research before fitting a cat, and just decided it was worth it after all the defect bullshit Ive had this year.

You can probably buy one from Just JDM in QLD, but I dont know where else except maybe Corolla Spares in Sydney. Begs the question, whats the engine?

Theres a rwd 3sfe in a spacia van if you can find one.

Its a G254 diff code. This would mean its a G series so the size is 8 inch, the 25 refers to the ratio so this would mean its a 4.556:1 and the 4 means its a 4 pinion open centre. This is the stronger open centre design of the 2 they made. Heres a list of known G series cars and what they had, as a starting point for finding an lsd. http://www.ae86drivingclub.com.au/forums/showthread.php/26905-G-series-Diff-info-Discussion

Looking good mate. What size is the diff? Whats the diff code on the 4 runner firewall? Is it already an LSD?

Election looking bleak. Neither party will stand up for Australia against globalism. Labour wants to send your money away to the carbon gods, and Liberals want to forgo tax income to help out big business, and neither party gives a fuck who we elect or why, its already become an over reaching beurocracy that fucks everything up no matter what the citizens think. Its actually time for a revolution. Then they go and call an election for a weekend Im away playing Golf. This governemnt is just completley pointless.

Yeah man its been pretty hard to fathom, and Im pretty resilient. Have now noticed a dent in the drivers door from the guys knee, and I dunno what we ran over but the cars steering feels wierd. It will be assessed soon and Ill have a plan of action for getting it fixed. Shannons has been really good about getting it looked at. Because the assailants are both known Identities and have been charged by Police, there is no excess to pay. Ive made my statements to Police, who, due to the nature and severity of the crime, have fast tracked the court process. Its nice to see some real action towards justice this time. When I was king hit and had my nose broken I got no help from Police at all.

I think they both fled but the mexican gangster looking fella managed to hurt himself fleeing and was immobile I later found out.

11:1, fettle with the head. I was driving this car when I was flagged down and robbed on Sunday afternoon. Bloke runs out kinda friendly near my home up the other end of my street from a bike path, at first looks like a jogger. Thin white guy light brown hair bout 6 feet tall. As I slow up I get a vibe, so as I pull up cause hes on the road in front of me I cover the keys, and accidentally bump the thing off as it stops. Second guy looks like a mexican gangster appears. First guy jumps straight to the open drivers window. Says hello like a Bogan would, I smell alcohol, then he just kinda tries to shake my hand and snatches the wallet off the seat next to me. It has 230 bucks in it that I need. I start on him like give me that cash back NOW. He snatches the cash out and goes around the car talking shit like what you gonna do about it cunt. I dont want him to get away so I just jump out, which is met with do something cunt, so I rip out the Samsung7, double tap and snap and this pisses them right off. Demands for my phone are now met with my demands for cash, all kinds of threats to kill me. Mexican gangster tries to come around behind me while the other guys shaping up to me, I move so that the two guys are always in front of me. I shoved the first guy back a bit, that was abgout as violent as it got from me, but now the first guy wants the phone badly. We kinda get away from the car at this point, which is sitting with the keys in it, so I jump back in and the pair of cunts came back to get me cornered in the car and take the phone off me. Im talking all kinds of shit to the first guy, but not bad stuff, just messing with his head, appealing to his conscience and shit, and then I say, if you just give me the cash back your 100 percent. He impulsively pulls out the cash and throws 150 bucks back into the car. I start the car, and Im like give me the rest of it and your good, and the other guy reaches in and chokes me while Im sitting in the car, obviously bummed that old mate is giving cash back as the second guy I think knows hes not in a photo cuse of where he was standing. Anyhow, he screams some mad dog shit like I should kill you your a meth dealer my girl died of meth. Then he stops trying to choke me after about 15 or 20 seconds of this mad dogging and the other guy gives me another 20 bucks back, so hes got 60 left, and Ive got 170 back in the car with me now, and I still havent given up the photo. So Im like fuck it Im doing alright now, and I make an attempt to snatch the last 60 bucks cash from the cunts hand but narrowly miss, and this pisses him off so I throw it in gear and smash the throttle, but he jumps in the window legs dragging hollywood style, so hes like arms locked for survival, and Im swerving all over, tyres lit, trying to find something to wipe him out on, and Im shoving his face with my spare hand, and he need 2 to live, and Im yelling fucking jump out cunt, and hes like I cant slow down and Im like fuck you let got, and hes likeI cant, so I slow to where he might be ok if he lets go, but he looks more like hes gonna try and free up a hand and do something, so I smash throttle again and by now were 100 metres up the road, around the corner in front of the traisn station, so I blazed along the road, and slowed a little to give him a slight opportunity to bail and off he goes, tucked and rolled. I never looked back, Im like not a scratch or dent on me or the car, only lost 60 bucks and didnt have to fist fight two drunk meth heads so lifes good. Was within site of home, so I went a few blocks away, pulled up, 000, cops came grabbed the second one up that choked thretened and robbed me, luckily the one I didnt have a photo of. Shared photo with cops, they know the guy already so now hes on a warrant to be picked up soon. Two positive IDs of suspects made including photo line ups, car has been printed, Is covered in dust, I now own a CSI suit. Lost 60 bucks, me and the car are fine. Im getting a gun. Thats the next mod.

Went for a shakedown drive in the hills. Car performed great. Nothing leaked. The small weep of oil at the sandwich plate has stopped itself after a heat cycle. Got the water to 101C and the oil to 110C. It was a very hot day ideal for testing thermal maximums. It held in there, and cooled quickly when I backed off and went down the other side of the range. I can induce scrubbing on the arches from hard driving quite easily, more on the front. I need to do some more gaurd rolling. Shits tucked and all but I still have the stock metal lip in the arches.

Wheel alignment done, zero toe, -2.7 camber and 3.4 caster. Oil cooler working great, sits about 95 in traffic, 105 or less when you thrash it! Just hot enough to evaporate any condensation inside the engine. Lowered a bit more to even out the heights. Stopped on the next street over and met a bunch of dudes there working on JDM cars, miatas and rb30 skyline wags mostly.

My 85 RA65 had the original spare in the car, on an alloy rim too. Someone really took care of that thing. You can tell by the date stamp on the tyre when it was made. Look for a month year tag somewhere.

Go the Dattos!

OK, I have a had a couple of drives on the new motor. Feels freer and a touch less fresh and tight than the newer engine, but not much really. Still pretty awesome. I have completed the oil cooler setup. I went with a 25 row oil cooler - $88 generic that was the same as the branded ones but half the price. Speedflow -10 lines, so 16mm roughly. Mishimoto Thermostatic sandwich plate with 185 degree F thermostat. Couple of m20 to dash 10 adapters in the plate with sealing washers. Made my own speedflow style lines from a mixture of stealth and speedflow fittings. Went with the all black Nylon Braid hose with r6 rubber lining. Needed 2x 90 degrees at the cooler, and 2x 45 degrees off the take-off plate. Took it for a test drive, and seems good, oil pressure takes about 1 second more to build up than before, but the cooler stays fullof oil the way it sits so its minimised. Total cost - Cooler $88 Takeoff plate - $199 Washers m20 - $1.5 M20 to dash 10 adapters x 2 $38 Lines (3m) and speedflow/stealth fittings x 4 - $238 Total - $564.5 Mounted it off a little bracket I found, cut down and attached to the headlight bracket. Also used a threaded female m8 to 6 adapter post as the mount on the lower crossbar. For how strong it is, I dont think I could have used less metal to fit it.

Fuck bonnets.