LittleRedSpirit

Had another thought, I know I set the fuel pressure high enough when I got the car running, I wonder if the retarded cunt that dynoed the car and didnt even change any timing, Gary Coombes, who left it really over advanced, might have knocked back the fuel pressure when the car was in his hands? I cant imagine a reg adjusting itself down.

Thanks Graeme, Im pretty excited to hit the highway and see what it will do.

I do once ive found a happy place with the tune, I switch it over to closed loop, and it goes fine, but I hadnt really tested the difference in economy if any.

No I meant KPA. I need minimum 50 psi at idle. I had 43. I'm running about 55 now constant with no vac reference except the atmosphere. Manual says 50 -57psi from memory. I thought I had it right. I just hadn't checked it since I set it up originally. Don't know if I had a poor setting from the outset, if I just set it low and got my kpa conversion wrong the first time around. Or possibly the reg doesn't work that well its just the usual cheap Tomei one that cost about 70 bucks. Nothing special. Ill have to keep an eye on it. If I do decide to use the vac reference, its no big deal to setup, tuning that out is just gonna be the first couple of rows in the map. Probably fluffing up the fuel a bit considering it will effectively drop the fuel pressure a bit at light load. Economy seems to be good too, maybe best ever. Half tank 230ks, thrashing it around the place trying to get logs to tune from. Used to get about 180 from half a tank in the city and that worked out to 9.25klm per litre. I could do 12 klm/litre on the highway. If I make the most basic of calculations and scale up the economy in tune with the 230 ks half tank, its a factor of 1.27, so is it possible its doing 11.75ks/litre around town now just on this change?

What usually happens after an aggro dose of carby cleaner is the engine runs faster, and then you realise it needed a clean many times over the years and people just kept opening up the idle screw to keep it alive. Especially with autos, where a stall is particularly annoying. Just reset it all to factory specs once done. Check base ignition timing, the motor might be out, and you might have a weak idle as a result also.

At a certain point, you realise you have an aftermarket ecu, so why not tune like a madman and make sure you are fully utilising everything properly before worrying about spending all kinds of money on things like cams or turbos.

Breakthroughs that yield to more power! I noticed the fuel pressure on 2az86 was low. Adjusted it up 20 percent, atomises way better, car sounds and drives totally differently. Had to adjust the fuel down only 9 percent at top end not 20 percent like the pressure variation should dictate. Its swallowing more of it! It used to go spastic at the top end, but now it goes spastic everywhere. Such a simple thing... Taller gears feel amazing, its like the motor got bigger the way the car feels.

I had a KE with such a worn ignition once that I never did find the way to turn the key all the way off. I could turn it to accessory and didn't need to do the push and turn to switch back to off position to remove the key, so I just thought that's how it worked. lol. I did at one point work it out and then my battery stopped flattening itself. Give us more info. Which chassis and engine for a start, and were these problems present on the old engine and carb, did you rebuild the carb? Is it a known working unit? I always use lots of carby cleaner just to blast the crap out, and rev it up with the carb inlet half obscured to create a strong venturi effect and suck the shit out of the jets. Try the fuel filter, they are cheap to swap out, and go from there. You will need to make sure the fuel pump can move the fuel, that the filter lets it flow, and that the car didn't sit for long enough for the fuel to become stale. A car will idle poorly on old fuel, if at all.

I had a look at the 5th ratios. I have the w57 .861, you have w56 .85, so slightly taller than mine already, the w58 is of course tallest at .783. In my drive-line with 3.58:1 final drive and 6700rpm available, I was only able to calculate a 70 rpm drop at 100klm/hr. While this would be good, 70 rpm isn't a whole lot of difference for the money spent on this exercise, which is why I asked about the engine, as there might be a more suitable box available.

Throwout bearing.

Been chasing more consistency from one day to the next. I realised my fuel pressure reg was capped so it didnt even have an atmo reference, so I would have had slight variances in fuel pressure day to day. I also rechecked the setting, I noticed while running it was only 25kpa. I reset to the minimum 31kpa, and oh my gosh what a difference it makes. Its like a new engine. I think I was getting poor atomisation from the 12 hole injector nozzle. So much more torque now, and rather than just pull really hard for the top 1500 rpm, it seems to have filled in whatever was missing below that in the midrange. Its so much better I'm tempted to throw it on the dyno and see, or go to the drags and check the time it will do. Took a lot of retuning, and the fuel map looks a bit different in overall shape. Took out between 8 and 18 percent, and I've been adding some here and there as well. I also took the time to sync the inlet and adjust idle as best as possible. Ive got a new cable routing that makes the throttle cable return a bit better. I also worked over the timing map and smoothed it right out, just trying to get the smoothest feeling as the tune moves around the table.

Stoked!!

7 episodes in a year!

Im curious about what engine its behind? Most people get annoyed with a first, second and 5th gear thats too short is all. To be honest I have the second tallest 5th gear ratio in my w box and its only about 70 rpm change at 100klm/hr so pretty much a negligible affect for the change. Id suggest using the freely available speed in gear calculators online to see what sort of difference it would make overall before going to that effort. You could begin to consider a 6 speed conversion depending on your engine, and have it all.

Has anyone seen the above yet?

Good plan, however Im using a desktop in my office and no laptop. She has 2 laptops and acts like they arent able to print. Therefore must email to my email, then print from my office. Just select the printer on the network from the laptop. It can be done.

So my wife decided to use my computer and somehow deleted my facebook login details from the keychain and now it inputs hers instead. Now to simply get on facebook I have to upload my ID to them as I had an out of date email. Thanks Wifey. She claims to have "not used my computer in ages", however a week ago my PC had the login stored, now it doesnt. I get so frustrated with her, she freely does whatever she wants, then when negative consequences occure from her actions,she just gives you the silent treatment, as if the sin of complaineing about her actions is far far worse than anything she has ever done to anyone, through ignorance or malice. Its seriosuly hard to take, because over time it adds up. Every simple thing that could just be put behind us with a "Sorry, my bad", just stays as an open sore that I get to keep. Now it inputs her email and password instead. So im getting denials by her as if Im complaining about nothing, and simultaneously going insane out of frustration while I stare at the proof that she overwrote the info! FUCK! I wish she could just say sorry, but being the mild mannered middle child in a family bookended by 2 psychos, she cannot understand how she could ever have made a mistake, she is used to getting praise for simply not being a psychotic handful, and this makes her a psychotic handful in a different way, now that grown up levels of emotional control and introspection is requred, its muscle she never built. I fucking hate facebook too. I just need to get someones contact info to try and buy a panel.

I had only heard of height issues on 7k into ke70 but I could be wrong. Point being a 7k is a lot more findable at least in Australia as the 5k powered vehicles arent really on the road anymore but the 7k vans continued up past 2000 model year. I think a 2.7 litre RZ Hilux motor would be a good conversion if you couldnt find much else. Might be hard to find a tall enough diff, but they really do make great torque and theyre hard to kill. Would be annoying having a useless first gear but youd get used to it. Dont try and make a 4wd box into 2wd, its not worth it. 2azfe engines are everywhere, but judging from the questions your asking, making mounts, oil pickups and manifolds might go over your head at this stage in your modifying career. Also the required W5x box is getting hard to find. I remember when Terry tried to sell one here 5 years ago for 150 bucks, no takers. I just saw one up for $850! Makes it seem like me paying a grand to get a car with one spare was worth it.

Hello. the only bigger motor that will fit your existing tranny should be a 7k. That is, the biggest of the K engines at 1.8 litres. Its usually installed in liteace or townace vans. I assume you have the 4k engine, which is 1.3 litres. Take the time to read the wikipedias on different Toyota engine familys. It will really help you out. Try and understand how engines are named, theres a lot of info on this and different letters give different info about the spec of the engine. For example: 4AGE 4th variant designed of the A series engine G means wide angle between valves so more performance inclined with dohc. E equals Electronic fuel injection. Another example: 4AGZE As above but the Z placed there means it came from the factory with a supercharger. There are pages online that seem to explain this in much greater detail. Diesels are commonly overlooked, and I think great for some conversions depending on purpose. I saw a Diesel RA40 celica at a car show recently with the Hilux KZTE engine. It was quiet, civilised, had air conditioning, and it made 268 horsepower. Seemed pretty cool to me. Try to find an engine and gearbox as a set to make it simpler, but there really is nothing that just bolts in except a 7k.

Yes I do. The defect made me change plans for a week or two, and now I'm about out of holidays to do the swap to the other motor. I think I could do it in a couple of days, the main things are just parts swapping to the new engine as usual, but I also need to hack the block for starter clearance, and this is hard to do neatly, Ill probably be a bit more scientific about it and make a template to cut from this time.

Defect clear.

Thanks alot mate!

Ill put a little drip rail in to drain water away at some point. RWC is booked for tomorrow morning. Ive done the knob, padding and the bonnet now so theres no reason to leave it off the road and let the rego tick away. I got some wheel arch trim and put rubber around the bottom of the cap, its looking pretty pro now. Gonna treat her to a nice detailing today and then I might even fit the windscreen trim since no water has come in for months. Bit of paint going wierd on the right rear arch lip, but thats happened before and can be polished out.

Plus water runs into it when it rains so a wider slot increases that.