LittleRedSpirit

Over the weekend I had fitted the cube speed short shifter. I didn't like it so I removed it and returned to stock. Crazy short throw, but I like the feel of a stock one better. I fitted a new pivot cup, gasket and rubber boot to my stock one, and greased it up as well, feels like new. Looked into a new bonnet from Blits, but it will be pricey, so I need to save up.

Looks really strong!

More to the point, stop buying and replacing things till you have definitive proof whats wrong.

Must be a record short time between episodes!

It doesn't matter how big the radiator is the thermostat should regulate engine temp to an even 80-90 degrees at all times, so fit a thermostat as yours is faulty or missing. That will help you establish a hot running condition that is consistent and wont affect your test results. Engines wear prematurely if they never get to an even up to temp state for general use, as the pistons need to expand with the heat of the system to give ideal tolerances. Fouling plugs is usually a symptom of too much cold enrichment, a general rich state or incomplete ignition in that cylinder leaving the sooty deposits that block or insulate the spark from occurring in the correct way. So from what I can gather the issue was with cylinder 1 and now its with cylinder 4 as well. If it was a choke issue specifically you would see all cylinders affected in a similar way. Is your rotor button worn? Do you have the correct points gap? If its worse on the freeway then your issues might be being compounded by the rushing of air or the extra motion based forces that occur in this state. I once had a car cutting intermittently as I approached 100klm/hr. If I drove under 90 no issues, but if I drove over 95 I would experience misfires. I stopped on the side of the highway and saw that the wire attached to the ballast resistor was faulty, so I wandered over to a nearby house, asked for some tape, taped it on and drove home no worries. So look for loose connections in the ignition system, and check that your engine grounds and battery to body grounds are clean and well attached. I think were past expecting this to be a basic service related problem and its going to be something more obscure.

If its an AE102R you wont have one.

If it has a knock sensor its usually on the side of the block between cylinders 2 and 3. Under the inlet.

I finally got a new laptop battery and it cost only about 39 dollars from China. Now I can do all day logs again. My old battery was down to about 45 minutes on a good day. Took a half hour drive in the pouring rain yesterday. Tyres are great in the wet unless you introduce too much sideways g force and right foot. However pulling off the lights is quite easy, even with all the torque, while everything else creeps off you can get away like its dry in a straight line. The new hatch didn't leak any water in. Stoked about that. I could not say the same about the fibreglass one until I put sealant between the rubber seal and the fibreglass.

I did a little bit more on this. I changed the power feed for the wideband so its ignition power only. It used to be accessory so I could turn it on, get it working then start the car. Now that I have a stereo worth using I dont want it on all the time. I also put some more dynamat in the hatch.

Asking questions on the internet isnto going to pull it apart and diagnose it. Maybe just pull off the lines from the master down and clean them all out and start over. Inspect them when off the car and re-install if good.

I was stoked to show them. I forgot to add, i was having this small issue with the itbs not closing as crisp as I wanted them to. Sometimes they were perfect, other times they were not quite shutting down the torque. So anyhow, I made an aligning rod to perfectly try to align all the shafts in the butterflies, so I loosened them up on the spacers, bolted them to some thick 3mm 20x20 extrusion and retorqued them down. Shafts came much closer to perfect alignment, and I was able to get them to close a little smoother. I also noticed the cable had some drag to it, so I undid and silicon sprayed inside the throttle cable, and its smoother running now. I also bent the throttle rest ever so slightly down and made its alignment with the throttle puller perfect, as it seemed to rub a little on the endge of the groove as it approached closed throttle. Having adjusted this, I re-synced them all and its running fine now. Ill have to make some fine adjustments with the dials at some stage but its pretty smooth and nice anyhow.

So after being on the road for a few years I finally got stopped and checked over by traffic task force. No defects! I was given a couple of warnings but the Police were really great to deal with, and even told me I had my head screwed on straight as they were finishing up. The female officer had even given me the name of a company that makes ADR approved fibreglass bonnets. Awesome! They check the blue plate codes, looked for the emission gear required and I showed them how it all works. They were satisfied with the quality of it all. Luckily I just tossed the glass hatch last weekend, and they weren't able to find a second glass panel on the car, might have been pushing my luck. They were as understanding as they could be when they pressed me about the bonnet, I explained that up until last weekend I had a fibre hatch as well, and that after several years of looking I was able to buy and repair a metal hatch for the car, and I'm doing the same with the bonnet, but I just haven't found one and the one I have was all I could get. One worrying thing, the ticket for a fibreglass panel comes under the hooning legislation and effectively is a strike. The Police mentioned I needed better roll cage padding, and I added that already, and I even reduced the size of my interior light by half to work with it better. Apparently its only important to stop potential head strikes on the cage, so with this in mind I fit the padding around the top of the drivers seat, and stopped it with just enough room that the seatbelt fits past it. The bonnet I hope I can get away with for another month of two, and see if I can find a good one to modify with a steel cap and bulge. I was going to make some new parkers a priority because my parkers are original adm zenki from 1983 and one just blows the park bulb over and over. The Police mentioned that's not an infringement and that I'm better making the bonnet priority one. I also adjusted the hatch over a little after I noticed it was a tiny bit misaligned where it flows down from the roof. All fixed now. I also tossed a brass hose joiner that extends the catch can hose in favour of a plastic one to save weight, and I unbolted, cut off and re installed the bonnet pins as a further weight saving measure.

Hi. Its not all about diameter, I like the look of anything from 13 to 15 inch, but its all about the correct offset to space them perfectly under the arches.

Before Anika was born, I was really enjoying taking long cruises that took up entire afternoons on a Sunday. I had 2 amazing drives to Jimna up the range there and back, went around the dams a couple times, went up and explored glasshouse. Just dealing with stress. It was the best time just being completely alone at the wheel. Just getting to know this machine I made really well. Things keep growing, things keep evolving, and as it turns out, a little child is not the big scary thing you thought it would be. Its just a another little thing you've created that surprises you in all the best ways.

Yeah we took a long walk around the place and just left the cars there. The crowd was real respectful, nobody I saw touched anyones machine. It was good. Maybe should have left my number on the car in case someone wanted to ask some questions.

Thanks mate I was pretty bummed to be the only ae86 there. However it was an awesome day and well worth the early start. Should have said hello, what did you bring?

Hatch is painted and fitted. Looks great. Gearbox cross member is done too.

Id like to tag along to one of these things.

So clean you could eat off it!

Even still, the exchange of 4.4 litres for 2 seconds a lap is kinda disappointing. I'm not saying it couldn't go better as is, but I am saying it could go better with a smaller engine with more driveable power. Imagine the 3k traded for a 4age, it would be a real weapon on that course.

The ke20 with a v8 in it was only 2 sec a lap quicker than the 3k ke20 there.

Thats some quality looking sheetwork.