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chestikoph1

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chestikoph1 last won the day on December 20 2018

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About chestikoph1

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  • Birthday 11/14/1976

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  1. Manual pedal box from my KE55, converted to hydraulic clutch, can still be used as cable (dual purpose) Will suit KE 30/35/55 Comes with 5/8 clutch master cylinder. Prefer local sale, might be cost prohibitive to post $165
  2. Yeah I've seen those Si, they do look good but hard to justify the price considering the exchange rate at the moment. It would be pretty straight forward to fabricate just need to sus out the ball joint or maybe use a spherical bearing instead. Getting the wheel alignment redone on Saturday so I will see if this has made a difference, gonna run a little bit of toe out aswell see if that improves turn in. I also grabbed some higher rate springs of a mate to swap out and experiment after a couple of runs.
  3. In getting things ready for the next round I thought I would fix somethings that I was never really happy with for a while. The extra positive castor and negative camber I am running causes my lower control arms to sit at a pretty high angle compared to standard. The sway bar link pins were at a bad tilt and I wasn't getting full benifit from the swaybar also the castor rod was starting to bind even though it has a rose joint connection. I did have go at a fix for the sway bar link a while back but it wasn't the best solution. Before... So I have changed the orientation of sway bar hole to the vertical plane and welded and redrilled the castor rod mounting holes on the control arm. link is nice and straight now and the castor rod pivots freely. Ultimately I wouldn't mind making up new control arms from some chromoly tube with multiple mounting options, but this is fine for now. After...
  4. My first event since the rebuild and couldn't be happier, still a lot of things to work on particularly the balance of the car, it's like starting all over again with handling setup, but it ran well with no issues. It feels significantly more rigid with the cage now and definitely getting a heap more feedback on the cars behaviour. First thing to look at is the brake pad choice and brake balance, currently running some QFM AR1M but just not getting the bite they were when I was running the boosted setup. Considering a couple options one being Forza FR 6 carbon fibre based pads, after chatting to the guys at GSL Rallsport they said these are more suited to a non vacuum assisted setup. Once that's sorted I will sus out the front to rear brake balance and then move onto the springs and sway bars. Next round on the 7th, in the mean time a couple pics pinched from the web.
  5. Thanks fellas. Motor back in yours Matt? New tyres on and rolling smoothly now, oppted for a set of AR1's, great reviews on these and priced really well. Definitely more of a slick than the RSR, heaps softer with a tread wear rating of 80 compared to 140 of the Federals.
  6. Happy new year everyone!! What a better way to kick this new year off for me than to get this car running, fuel in, oil pressure up and started first crank. Quick check over for leaks and funny noises, all good. Went for a slow drive around the block to set up initial brake balance, brakes seem pretty good, balance feels ok straight off the get go, a bit it more pedal effort required without the booster but the feel is great with no vagueness at all. On the bad side tyres are shot, they have gone square from sitting on the one spot for so long, its like driving on square wheels. I was going to freshen them up soon but was hoping to run them for the shake down event on the 10th. Anyway here she is out of the garage properly for the first time in ages.
  7. Passenger side done, I have raised this side above the floor by about an inch to try and avoid the heat from the exhaust, it runs directly under the passenger footwell. Can't have the passenger burning their feet!!
  8. Remade the accelerator pedal and repositioned closer to the brake pedal, also drivers side heel plate done.
  9. Thanks altezzclub, unfortunately I know it won't stay this clean even though it's only going to see tarmac. Finally got around to re doing the exhaust, it had to remade due to the floor of the car now being lower and flatter, the resonator used to fit into a slight rise in the floor but that section was cut out. This system should flow better though it's a more direct path to the muffler which I swapped out to stainless on as well. Couple more things to hook up in the engine bay, prime the oil system and it's ready to restart after a long hiatus.
  10. Just the small stuff left now, foot rest for clutch pedal made up and fire extinguishers mounted. Need to make up the heel plates next and mod the accelerator pedal so it's closer to the brake pedal.
  11. Re positioned the hydraulic handbrake to the side of the tunnel, it's a more rigid area to mount it to. Having it bolted to two surfaces rather than one like before has made it a lot stiffer than before. Loving owning a tig welder, I made up mount with some 3mm aluminium plate and drilled a few holes to access the mounting bolts and lighten it a bit, just need to plumb it up and remount remote reservoir.
  12. Selling a couple of bits not required. Greddy remote oil filter mount. (Filter mount only) $50Suit any SR20DET, or other application , just need take off block from engine.Great for relocating your oil filter for easy access or running an oil cooler.Uses a Z442 oil filter. ENV-100 Improved Racing Engine Oil Thermostat. $180Activation temp 82cFull flow temp 95cAs new condition, less than 100km old. Selling due to change of engine set up.Crucial when running an engine oil cooler. High performance vehicles require large oil coolers to ensure that the oil does not overheat during strenuous use. These coolers also introduce the danger of over-cooling the oil and delaying engine warm-up, resulting in horsepower loss, excessive engine wear and reduced fuel mileage. Oil thermostats perform the critical function of bypassing the oil cooler until the oil has reached its minimum operating temperature. Reduces excessive engine wear and horsepower losses while improving fuel mileage by preventing oil temperatures from dropping below optimal levels.Maintains a minimum fluid temperature according to the typical stabilization temp /- 1°C.High flow, low pressure drop design locates the valve assembly completely out of the primary fluid flow.Allows a small percentage (less than 10%) of fluid to continually circulate through the cooler to eliminate air pockets and prevent cold fluid trapped in the cooler from shocking the system.
  13. Looking shmick, good to see her getting driven. With the rear light surround I know you can get plastic chrome plated. I think they hit it with a special primer and then chrome plate it.
  14. Thanks Dave, yeah it's great having the Tig, I have knocked up a few bits and pieces with it now it's been so useful particularly for the aluminium fabrication side of things. Definitely worth grabbing an ac/dc model for the versatility of material capabilities. I made a new catch can with it last week, it's not perfect but for a first attempt it turned out OK.
  15. Another weekend and another task completed, this time the cover for the fuel tank under the car to stop crap hitting it and also to stop crap dirt getting into the boot. But I still needed to access the tank drain from under the car. Anyway pictures tell a thousand words.....
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