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Everything posted by chestikoph1

  1. Got a couple of spare KE35 front lip/spoilers. Knocked up a couple of extra ones, after making a replacement one for my car. Fits early style front apron so if you are running an older one on your KE30/35/55 this will fit. May fit later style but haven’t tried. Easy to fit, finished in gel coat ready to paint. $130
  2. Thought I might drag this thread out from the archives!! Cars still in one piece and running well. I was doing a few track days throughout 2020 in between lock downs and restrictions mainly sprints and Time Attack at Barbagallo. Couple of upgrades and changes since the last post include wider 15 x 8 wheels, 225 tyres and some bolt on flares to fit them under. Bought tears to my eyes taking the grinder to the rear arches, they were absolutely rust free! Oh well she’s long past ever returning to a standard shell. Also dropped in some cams for a bit more top end. Now into the mid 66 sec around our local track, weight reduction is my next project. Will have to get back into more regular posting, some recent pics.
  3. Well it's been a while since the latest update, where do I start. The Rally Sprint series concluded with the remaining 2 rounds going well and really helping with the development of the car. The sway bar link setup worked well and contributed in reigning some lateral weight transfer. I also changed up the ride hight a bit by dropping the rear by half an inch and raising the front by the same, this coupled with a heavier front spring rate dialled in the rear to front weight transfer. The car was now more settled under braking and was a lot more balanced and nuetral turning in to corners. I did end up changing the brake pads and this was probably the single most performance improving part I changed. The QFM's I was running weren't bad but just didn't perform the same as a proper race pad. At $600 for a set of pads I was pretty nervous at dropping so much cash at just brake pads. But the change was massive, dropped 6 secs over one lap, the confidence going into corners was amazing the harder you push the pedal the more they bite, and with out the booster the modulation you get is great. This was all great and I was super happy with the results. At the end of the 5 round series we ended up mid field out of 80 odd cars and were beating much more modern and more powerful 4wd cars. But Tarmac Rallysprint on streets is pretty unique, very fast sraights into slow and very tight corners over and over again. I was interested to see how this setup would go on the race track. I have done a couple of track days with the Rolla in the past but none since the cage and the latest rebuild, so I thought I would sign up to the very next event available at Barbagallo Raceway it just happened to be the first round of the WA Time Attack Series. Definitely not the sort of event you would expect an old Corolla at. Anyway I was super excited and they had just resurfaced the track for the upcoming V8 Supercar round so I was keen to check it out. Put it this way It was the oldest car there by a loong way and it attracted heaps of attention amongs the Skylines, Evo's, WRX's, Civics and Porches. Three classes, Street, Tuner, and Race, I was allocated to Tuner class. There was aero as far as you could see and I don't know if you can count my front lip as aero but car went great and surprised a lot of people. Out of 58 entries I finished 36th, ran a best time of 68.8 sec. The fastest lap of the day was a 58.4sec and slowest was 78.4 sec, overall super happy with the result and I think with a couple of tweaks and changes I should get into the mid 60's. I have couple of things in mind to sort then I will chase more HP and that should help get me further up the field again. Well that's it for now I will post up a few things I am working on soon. A couple of shots from the track day...
  4. Manual pedal box from my KE55, converted to hydraulic clutch, can still be used as cable (dual purpose) Will suit KE 30/35/55 Comes with 5/8 clutch master cylinder. Prefer local sale, might be cost prohibitive to post $165
  5. Yeah I've seen those Si, they do look good but hard to justify the price considering the exchange rate at the moment. It would be pretty straight forward to fabricate just need to sus out the ball joint or maybe use a spherical bearing instead. Getting the wheel alignment redone on Saturday so I will see if this has made a difference, gonna run a little bit of toe out aswell see if that improves turn in. I also grabbed some higher rate springs of a mate to swap out and experiment after a couple of runs.
  6. In getting things ready for the next round I thought I would fix somethings that I was never really happy with for a while. The extra positive castor and negative camber I am running causes my lower control arms to sit at a pretty high angle compared to standard. The sway bar link pins were at a bad tilt and I wasn't getting full benifit from the swaybar also the castor rod was starting to bind even though it has a rose joint connection. I did have go at a fix for the sway bar link a while back but it wasn't the best solution. Before... So I have changed the orientation of sway bar hole to the vertical plane and welded and redrilled the castor rod mounting holes on the control arm. link is nice and straight now and the castor rod pivots freely. Ultimately I wouldn't mind making up new control arms from some chromoly tube with multiple mounting options, but this is fine for now. After...
  7. My first event since the rebuild and couldn't be happier, still a lot of things to work on particularly the balance of the car, it's like starting all over again with handling setup, but it ran well with no issues. It feels significantly more rigid with the cage now and definitely getting a heap more feedback on the cars behaviour. First thing to look at is the brake pad choice and brake balance, currently running some QFM AR1M but just not getting the bite they were when I was running the boosted setup. Considering a couple options one being Forza FR 6 carbon fibre based pads, after chatting to the guys at GSL Rallsport they said these are more suited to a non vacuum assisted setup. Once that's sorted I will sus out the front to rear brake balance and then move onto the springs and sway bars. Next round on the 7th, in the mean time a couple pics pinched from the web.
  8. Thanks fellas. Motor back in yours Matt? New tyres on and rolling smoothly now, oppted for a set of AR1's, great reviews on these and priced really well. Definitely more of a slick than the RSR, heaps softer with a tread wear rating of 80 compared to 140 of the Federals.
  9. Happy new year everyone!! What a better way to kick this new year off for me than to get this car running, fuel in, oil pressure up and started first crank. Quick check over for leaks and funny noises, all good. Went for a slow drive around the block to set up initial brake balance, brakes seem pretty good, balance feels ok straight off the get go, a bit it more pedal effort required without the booster but the feel is great with no vagueness at all. On the bad side tyres are shot, they have gone square from sitting on the one spot for so long, its like driving on square wheels. I was going to freshen them up soon but was hoping to run them for the shake down event on the 10th. Anyway here she is out of the garage properly for the first time in ages.
  10. Passenger side done, I have raised this side above the floor by about an inch to try and avoid the heat from the exhaust, it runs directly under the passenger footwell. Can't have the passenger burning their feet!!
  11. Remade the accelerator pedal and repositioned closer to the brake pedal, also drivers side heel plate done.
  12. Thanks altezzclub, unfortunately I know it won't stay this clean even though it's only going to see tarmac. Finally got around to re doing the exhaust, it had to remade due to the floor of the car now being lower and flatter, the resonator used to fit into a slight rise in the floor but that section was cut out. This system should flow better though it's a more direct path to the muffler which I swapped out to stainless on as well. Couple more things to hook up in the engine bay, prime the oil system and it's ready to restart after a long hiatus.
  13. Just the small stuff left now, foot rest for clutch pedal made up and fire extinguishers mounted. Need to make up the heel plates next and mod the accelerator pedal so it's closer to the brake pedal.
  14. Re positioned the hydraulic handbrake to the side of the tunnel, it's a more rigid area to mount it to. Having it bolted to two surfaces rather than one like before has made it a lot stiffer than before. Loving owning a tig welder, I made up mount with some 3mm aluminium plate and drilled a few holes to access the mounting bolts and lighten it a bit, just need to plumb it up and remount remote reservoir.
  15. Selling a couple of bits not required. Greddy remote oil filter mount. (Filter mount only) $50Suit any SR20DET, or other application , just need take off block from engine.Great for relocating your oil filter for easy access or running an oil cooler.Uses a Z442 oil filter. ENV-100 Improved Racing Engine Oil Thermostat. $180Activation temp 82cFull flow temp 95cAs new condition, less than 100km old. Selling due to change of engine set up.Crucial when running an engine oil cooler. High performance vehicles require large oil coolers to ensure that the oil does not overheat during strenuous use. These coolers also introduce the danger of over-cooling the oil and delaying engine warm-up, resulting in horsepower loss, excessive engine wear and reduced fuel mileage. Oil thermostats perform the critical function of bypassing the oil cooler until the oil has reached its minimum operating temperature. Reduces excessive engine wear and horsepower losses while improving fuel mileage by preventing oil temperatures from dropping below optimal levels.Maintains a minimum fluid temperature according to the typical stabilization temp /- 1°C.High flow, low pressure drop design locates the valve assembly completely out of the primary fluid flow.Allows a small percentage (less than 10%) of fluid to continually circulate through the cooler to eliminate air pockets and prevent cold fluid trapped in the cooler from shocking the system.
  16. Looking shmick, good to see her getting driven. With the rear light surround I know you can get plastic chrome plated. I think they hit it with a special primer and then chrome plate it.
  17. Thanks Dave, yeah it's great having the Tig, I have knocked up a few bits and pieces with it now it's been so useful particularly for the aluminium fabrication side of things. Definitely worth grabbing an ac/dc model for the versatility of material capabilities. I made a new catch can with it last week, it's not perfect but for a first attempt it turned out OK.
  18. Another weekend and another task completed, this time the cover for the fuel tank under the car to stop crap hitting it and also to stop crap dirt getting into the boot. But I still needed to access the tank drain from under the car. Anyway pictures tell a thousand words.....
  19. Thanks Matt. Some of you may recall before I pulled this apart I had just fitted a thermostat and oil cooler to help with oil temps on the track. I bought a thermostat from Improved Production and a Mocal 16 row oil cooler and mounted the cooler to the front bumper, there wasn't many other options where to mount it. Now this had a great effect and oil temps dropped significantly and it even helped with coolant temp as well. But the bad thing was if I ever needed to take the front bar off or beaver panel the oil cooler had to get disconnected. Not the most practical or the easiest of tasks, pretty messy as well. So I for this rebuild I had to think of an alternate location for the cooler that was unobtrusive yet still functional and had good air flow. I settled on where I had the oil catch can, this area is out of the way and gets great air flow if you remove the headlight. So I reworked the oil lines and changed the thermostat to a thermostat and oil filter relocator unit in one.
  20. Thanks, trust me it won't stay this nice. First round of the sprint series is on the 15th November, I am going to struggle to make it I think. I have had trouble getting a new front windscreen, the original one broke in the process of taking it out for the cage install, there is not one single screen in WA, so I am having one shipped from South Australia. Anyway some more pics of the interior which is almost done, still have to remount the hydro handbrake and make some aluminium heel plates.
  21. Finished product polished up and installed with a small filter on the outlet.
  22. One side completely welded. I wanted 2 inlets initially but then ended up with needing 3, I bought some 1" mandrel bends to direct the oily fumes directly to the bottom of the tank and welded them in place. Next I added a plate to help separate the oil from the air evacuating from the tank via 1.5" outlet, I have drilled a heap of holes in this plate and will also have some Stainless Steel Wool sitting on top to further help separation. It got super tricking getting the Tig torch inside the tank to weld this but I got some good welds in order to keep it in place. I only bought two 90 degree bends for the inlets, so I cut a piece of tube at a 45 for the last inlet, not ideal but it will do. I welded the last side on, also the 3 -10 an inlet fittings and the outlet, all that left is the drain, brackets to attach it to the car and a quick clean up and polish.
  23. Before i started the latest rebuild of the race car I bought myself a small AC/DC 180amp Tig welder, through out the build I knew I would requiring some Tig welding for some stainless and aluminium fabrication. I was sick of paying I stupid money for even the smallest of welding jobs, it seems like anytime a fabricator whips out the welder its a minimum $100 even for a 2 minute job. Anyway this post is about the fabrication of a custom catch can, now my Tig DC welding skills are average at best and my AC ally skills are crap, but after a bit of practice I was ready to try and fab myself a catch can. I used 2mm ally sheet, cut out using a jigsaw and bent up with a pan brake. I have found I got way better results when the fit up is perfect, you could almost fusion weld if there is no gap. Tacked the main box and one side... Once each side had a tack on it and I was happy with the positioning I started to weld it up, I welded about 3 inches at a time alternating sides. Ally gets hot really quickly and retains heat a lot more than steel and I don't have foot pedal to able to adjust the amps on the fly. This is what happens when you dab you tungsten in your weld pool, I tend to do this a lot, a pain in the ass, you have to clean your work and resharpen the tungsten.
  24. Center consol re-done with brake bias adjuster, shift light and new switches, I did have the hydraulic handbrake coming through the consol but I am going to mount it differently this time.
  25. New power distribution/fuse board and gear shifter cover. Also added an inline brake pressure switch to activate brake lights, the Tilton pedal box doesn't have the facility to run a mechanical switch. Another issue I had was the roll cage section that went through the firewall to the strut tower used the original wiring loom hole, so more metal had to be removed to accomodate the loom.
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