chestikoph1

2nd round went great, almost made top ten in class, finished 11th in tarmac 2wd over 2000cc. And 35th out of 60 entrants this time. Final round on next Thursday, and new turbo and retune should done for the event. So looking to score some points for the final round. After that interior will getting stripped and cage going in. Feels so dodgy pushing this thing without a cage. Couple of pics from last Thursday.

Little bit earlier notice for the next round, final round of the series. So it's your last chance to come down and see some great racing and a massive variety of cars. Thursday 6th March, racing starts around 5:30.

Hi guys, Heading up to Barbagallo with the Triumph Sports Owners club, they have booked the track for tomorrow evening. (Sat 1st march) If any one wants to come and check it out, feel free to come say g'day. We start racing at 4:30/5:00 pm.

Photos as promised, vid to come....

More photos from last week. Hanging for the next round.

Event went well, and we managed to finish in one piece, well almost, lost a mirror on one of the chicanes. Course is very unforgiving with kerbs and concrete barriers at nearly every corner!! 98% of the cars were dedicated comp cars, we were one of 3 cars that weren't caged and only running street rubber. We finished 37 out of 50 outright, considering it was my first run at the course and the high level of competition ( car that was before us was a r35 GTR ) we did pretty well and I think we can improve by a few seconds per run. Next round is on the 20th this month. After that the new turbo should fitted and should ready for the final round in March. Only one photo for now, with more to come, props go to Daniel Davey photography for the posted shot, has been pinched from his Facebook page, so go check it out, he has heaps more of the rest of the event. I also have some go pro footage from inside the car, once I figure out how to post it I will whack it on.

Perth forum and local scene has been dead lately, so if you want something to do..... Just a reminder rally sprint tomorrow afternoon/evening.

Has been re scheduled for the Thursday 6th February, same time same place, Hopefully we won't have to evacuate the venue again!!

Don't head down, event canceled due to fires in the area!!

Hey people, Things have been dead here lately, if you want something to do tonight. The third round of the Mcrae rally sprint is on this evening at the Motorplex. Entry is free for spectators, starts at 5:30 pm, huge variety of cars, I will be running in my rolla. Come down and say g'day and get your fix of motorsport.

It's down at motorplex. Your welcome to come down, it's free for spectators. It's kind of like a rally special stage, you can see about half the course from bridge on top of the drags staging are.

Next rally sprint is on the 23 of this month and the last couple of runs of the event are at night. So I had to fit some better lighting, the factory sealed beams are like candles. I bought an LED light bar and mounted it on the bumper utilising the number plate holes. Also hooked up an intercooler water spray, you have to wait in line about 5 minutes for your run, so this should help with the heat soak. It's my first tarmac rally stage with a navigator and my wife is navigating for the first time, should be interesting...... I mean fun!! So for the sake of our relationship I went all out and got us a couple Stilo helmets with built in intercoms. We shouldn't be screaming at each other over the noise of the car. The course is 3.5km long, 4 timed runs, 2 clockwise and 2 anticlockwise. You get one reconasance run at 60km. There are some serious rally cars entering this and my car is probably the least prepped. Check it out at www.rallysprints.com Will be happy just to finish in one piece. Photos up soon.

Caibs check out page 6, it kind of explains how. If you need more info let me know, are you going to add some forced induction to yours?

Ok, time for some updates and photos from the latest round of mods. I cracked out the digital camera and took some proper photos this time. There also is a couple of vids from the last event i need to put up as soon as i figure out how. First off the hydro all fitted and finished, works great, so much easier to whip around the those hair pins now. Only thing is the hand brake lever took the place of the radio, gonna have took put it some where else, also fitted the remote fluid canister Rear sway bar got rid of that slight understeer Latest engine bay pics, also made up a brake master cylinder brace/stopper. And some random shots just for the hell of it!

Hi mate this is just a cut and paste from my rides thread, in my opinion it probably one of the best upgrades, More work than I think you wanted to do, but the info is here any way. Sorry about the essay. This info is for use in a ke55, but some or most can be used on most ke/Ae cars. Just to clarify this brake upgrade is for use with the AE86 strut and hubs. As far as i know the ae86 struts and hub conversion can be used in most KE/AE cars ( i have even seen it used on a KE10 ) if used with the standard AE86 brakes its a brake upgrade in it self over any KE/AE offerings. When you use the ae86 strut there are so many more performance shock absorber options, because it uses a larger diameter strut tube casing. ( main reason it's used ) As far as i know the king pin inclination isn't too bad compared to the other common swaps, xt130, celica and so on ( there's not as much positive camber ) But it might be a good idea to run some adjustable strut tops top correct any camber issues. As for the strut hight, mine were cut down too suit a short stroke insert and a adjustable coil over set up was used, not too sure how they would be with the standard AE86 spring/spring seat set up. ( i think too tall ) You also need to use the ke55 strut tops ( or use the adjustable strut tops as mentioned before, Cusco #109410A, and Noltec #N44025 are an option for KE25/30/55) The strut top PCD is different on Ae86, but i think it is the same for KE/AE70. AE86 hubs and steering arms need to be used, the arms should bolt up fine to the ball joint and tie rod ends on a KE55, can't be sure on others. ( you can also use power steering arms for more lock) The rotor used is from an EG Honda Civic and it needs to be re drilled to a 114.3 PCD, most brake specialist or machining shops should be able to do this. ( don't try and do it your self !! ) EG Civic rotors are available in slotted and cross drilled and pretty sure they are even available in a two piece performance combo from DBA for the serious racer. Calipers are from a series 4 Mazda RX7, they are an aluminium 4 pot caliper and are a massive upgrade over standard, also a heap lighter than the pug/landcruiser option. ( less unsprung weight = better ) Being from a performance car, they have a heap of after market pad options. To be able to bolt up the caliper you need to use a custom adapter, there are a few guys who sell this item off the shelf locally and over seas. ( too suit either eg civic or mini cooper s rotors ) If you want to know where i got mine from please pm me, i am not going to promote any one specifically. You also need to get your brake lines re done to suit the RX7 caliper. And would recommend upgrading your master cylinder to 7/8 or 15/16 to get the correct pedal feel and effort, off memory a master cylinder from an early model commodor VH/VK will bolt up to the corolla booster. The only thing you will have to do is swap the slanting brake fluid canister for the flat corolla one. ( the lines going in to the master cylinder may have different flared ends to that on the corolla one, mine did ) All this should bolt up fine with out many problems, the only small one i encountered is the clearance from the lower control arm to the rotor, a few taps with the hammer to flatten out the end of the arm fixes that, it only need a few mm, don't hit hard enough to deform where the ball joint sits. Hope that helps, like i said if any one has any corrections or additions don't hesitate to make them. Cheers

Do you really need that much rubber? Granted you may get some decent power out of that prospective engine, but not enough to warrant that much grip. Just remember you have to get those things turning, that sort of high reving engine is not gonna have a lot of tourqe. I think some decent 205's or 235's on a 7" or 8" rim would be sweet and less of a head f@ck to fit.

New catch can finished and hoses fitted, also painted and finished the rear brakes. Looks kinda weird with two calipers, still waiting on the actual handbrake mechanism to arrive from the states. And the sway bar mounts have been welded onto the diff as well, just have to drill and fit the mounts into the chassis rails. Really need to start using the real camera again.

No, 79 ke 55 usually has the later apron, if your going to cut it up you may as well get a universal one.

The lip was from Thailand I will dig up the guys details and pass them on, the lip was a perfect fit made to suit the earlier ke35 apron, It won't fit the later ones with a little bottom lip. Thanks, they never stay that shiny though!!

One step closer to startup again, injectors have been fitted, and also installed a set of rocker arm stoppers. While I had the plenum off I gave it a few hours of love and polished it, and painted the rocker cover with a lick of wrinkle finish paint. I also tapped the outlets to suit some new fittings, the catch can I had didn't meet CAMS regs, It was about half a litre too small, so I need to fab a new one. New Z32 AFM fitted and base tune has been done to get it running and able to drive to the tuners. Still have to run the new brake lines for the second set of brake calipers and fit the hanbrake. Also need to fit the rear swaybar bar as well. So heaps to do and prep before the next event in early December, the sprint series actually starts on the 7th of November but no chance of making the first round.

The dual caliper brackets are finished, just need to source another set of rear calipers, run a another set of lines to a seperate hydraulic handbrake master cylinder. The fluid reservoir will be remotely mounted in the engine bay. So I will be running two sets of hand brakes, the standard cable one for parking, and the hydro for the track.

Here's a few shots Jack Barnes (fellow rolla owner) took at a local sprint.

Been a while since the last update, and there has been a few things happening since the last one. The sway bar links made a huge difference, so it's the way to go if your going to run big camber. Have done a few sprint events and car is developing every time, new semi race Federal RSR tyres made a big difference as well as some decent brake pads have brought times down. Also soon to be done is a hydro handbrake running off a second set of calipers, and going to trial a rear sway bar to see if I can enduce some slight early entry oversteer. For the moment its the chase for some more power, installed some bigger Nismo 555cc injectors and a bigger airflow meter, so hopefully that will nett me the magic 200kw atw. Will update after the re-tune. I think that's about all the chassis will handle before there's an adverse reaction, it really needs to have a cage fitted,you can see the flex in the body when you corner hard, the door windows move away from the seals, and being a coupe doesn't help. Thought about linking the front and rear chassis rails, maybe that will help reduce the twist in the shell. Any one done this? Only one pic for now, will upload more once I get a chance.

Hey mate congrats on getting her on the road, bad luck with the bearing though!! At least it's an excuse to go bigger and better. Out of interest who did you use for engineering?

Was having issues with the excessive angle of the swaybar link, due to the heavy castor and camber changes. The lower control arm was fair bit more forward and with rose joint, it was pushed about an inch wider. That was causing the link pin to tilt rather than act on the swaybar. So I have knocked up a bracket and changed the swaybar link to another rose joint link. .