chestikoph1

I don't want to fuel any fires here, but I can attest to the ability of the ae86 strut in an enthusiast motorsport application. I have been running them for a while now including the rx7 brake setup. I also run pretty high spring rate, 400lb of memory, a very thick 24mm front bar, all solid/rose jointed front end and usually around -4 camber. My car is consistently exposed to high cornering loads, and directional changes you would expect from tarmac rally and circuit racing. I am putting out 300hp at the wheels so it's relatively high powered and it is exposed to decent lateral forces. Rubber is 205/50/15 semi race slicks, but no stupid offsets on the rims. I have not had a failure of a bearing yet. I feel the key is regular maintenance (quality lubrication and correct bearing adjustment) I think just because the original spec of the car may not exceed a certain speed or you mod it more than stock, doesn't mean that the components won't handle more loads than stock and be reliable. In saying all this, any upgrade that is providing more safety or durability and is not cost prohibitive is a worth while upgrade. Just my opinion and only that.

I hope you did this in a controlled environment. Stating this and posting a picture of your car with its number plate showing isn't the best thing to do. I am all for enjoying our cars and testing their limits, but there is a time and place. I sure wouldn't feel safe getting overtaken by a stock 30+ year old car on the freeway at 130 kmh!! For sake of this thread and not just posting up my concerns, I will join in.... Me personally I have been just shy of 180 kmh in my ke55. ( on the track )

Cables were done by a brake place on Augusta st in Willeton, can't remember their name. About half way up the street on the right. Bad luck with the job mate, I know what it's like been there before. If you need any help shoot me a message.

Kinda frustrating at the moment though. Had to get my shoulder done, three weeks post surgery now and another 6-8 months to full recovery. Should be able to swing a spanner in a couple of months. Until then it's sitting in the garage, can't even drive :( I am glad it's inspiring others. How did you go with your hand brake issues Caibs?

You reckon it will be ready by the next sprint, be good chance for us to have a get togethor and cruise and all meet up at Motorplex. Might be some thing to organise for the WA gang.

Caibs, the r31 handbrake mechanism is notoriously crap, it's a shit design. Useless for any comp work. Most skyline guys upgrade to a commodore caliper instead and run a hydro set up for the handbrake. Just a heads up though, the hydro will slowly bleed away over prolonged parking and the car will roll away. I am running Rx7 fronts with 2 sets of caliper on the rears, skyline for foot brake and stock hand brake and commodore for hydro handbrake, with a commodore MC. With a decent set of pads you will love it. On a side note stay on to Dave,s back about your gear otherwise it may take another 2 months. The guy gave me the run around as well.

I run a custom 24mm front bar on my car, my car does see a lot of track time and hardly any road use. If your set on a 24mm bar I suggest you run a rear sway bar to help balance out the handling of the car, with out it you may experience understeer. If your just after a firmer ride, just go for some uprated coils and shocks on the front and add another leaf and better shocks on the back. If you want a more aggressive/race set up, do the above and then do the sway bars, in my experience they are usually the last thing to sort out once you decide on the handling characteristics you would like to achieve.

It's at the stage where it wont go any faster, the chassis is the letting it down. I figured while the cage goes in and the shell is stripped i might as well do the front end as well. Nothing too major. It will be from the strut towers forward only and most likely chop out the front part of the wheel tubs. And will link up the the rear of the strut tower with the cage. kinda like this... but obviously without the front bar set up. It will make a whole lot easier to do work on the car and simplify damage repair.

some picys from the weekend...

Here you go....

Its a Powered By Max set up from the states, it is a pull type with the cylinder facing forward. They have a website called parts shop max i think. They do all quality bits, no chinese rubbish, you do pay a bit more for it though. Will put up a pic up for you.

Always good fun to drive. Couple of shots from last weekend. I will try and put up some video footage as well Major changes coming up though, the whole thing is getting stripped soon. Full cage and maybe a tube front end going in. Should be some progress shots in a couple of months. In the mean time enjoy.

No worries Ken, glad you enjoyed it! Hopefully it will be ready by the next round in November, full cage and might even tube frame the front half of the chassis. But for now it's on stands while I get my shoulder fixed.

If you only need small adjustment, the best way to go is a set of adjustable strut tops. More expensive but the proper way of doing it and it won't effect track width. If you need more, as mentioned new longer lower or adjustable control arms are the way to go.

Has been confirmed, anyone who's coming down and would like to come for a lap around the course can do so. I am happy to take fellow rollaclub members on lap, it has to be during the non timed morning session. 9:30 to 12:00 So come down and say g'day. Just need to sign a passenger disclaimer form.

Yep more than likely to be condensation, hot oily air going into a relatively cold catch can leads to that exact muck. Same as Parrot This also used to happen on my old Mk 1 cortina, bottom of the can had milky oil in it and a little bit of water as well. It's not legal, but best to vent to atmosphere. That oily vapour into intake reduces O2 going into your engine, so you'll definitely see better performance and A/F readings with out it.

No worries Jack, see you there. I am there for both the targa and rally sprint. With the Targa, it's a non competetive test day, and I think their allowing passengers aside from navigators. So if you sign a waver I should be able to take you for a ride. Bring your camera there should be some awesome cars, I saw the entry list the other day and there is even a GT40 competing!

The mid year Mcrae Rally Sprint is being held in conjunction with the Targa West test day on the 20th July. Location is Perth Motorplex, check out the Targa West or Mcrae Rally Sprint websites for details. The same course is being used for both events, there are heaps of things scheduled for the day, state Motorkhana round is on, as well as Polaris rides and heaps of other motorsport activities. Sounds like a great day of fuel powered fun. I will be running in my corolla, so come down and say g'day.

Pretty much finished. Turned out ok, I think? Doesn't give too much away when the plates are on. Only need to do the short hose from the block to the thermostat. Thermostat fully opens at 86 degrees, but while closed maintains 10% oil flow to the cooler so you don't air pockets in the system. I pity the poor fool that has to ever work on this car (oh wait, that's me) there is bugger all room in the engine bay. Took half a day just fit the new oil filter relocation block onto the side of the engine. Still have the larger capacity sump to do, hopefully it turns up soon. Also have a temp gauge with warning light and buzzer to fit up as well.

Have started the oil cooler and thermostat set up, wasn't many option for placement. Running out of room!! And didn't want to go full Boso style, Although I did have to cut the front bumper for it to fit. Number plate covers it nicely for any road driving, the only thing that gives it away are the tops of the fittings poking out. On the track plates are off and it will have full airflow exposure. Speedflow would have to be a great stock option for shares, the amount of money they siphon for a hand full of fittings and hose is ridiculous, but didn't want to scrimp when engine vitals are at risk. Targa West testing/sponsors day is on the 20th with the mid year Rally Sprint on that same venue and same track. Should be good to go up against some great cars. Any way will post up some shots of the finished product.

Things have been a bit quiet, wet weather has kept me off the track lately. Have added and changed a few things since the last post, new turbo back stainless exhaust, and also dropped one of the mufflers. Made up a cooling panel to divert more air towards the radiator, and during last couple of events I have been adding some bonnet raisers to help vent out some heat. Some serious heat build up in the engine bay, with the new turbo glowing after each session. Also hooked up an intercooler spray, and in the process of fitting an oil cooler and larger sump. Some big changes coming soon though, as it develops into more of a dedicated track car, full weld in cage, linking front and rear chassis, and new seats and harnesses. And if there is any tax money left over, some wider race rubber. So will be stripping it down, hopefully only out of action for a month or so. There is another rally mid July, I may wait until after that. Pics of the air diversion panel.

Is this still on? Any way I am keen for a run up to mundaring tomorrow, if any one else is let me know.

Vid as promised, from last night.....

here is vid of one of the runs last night. the escort that went before us hit the concrete barrier on the last corner!! Not sure if this will work, never posted a vid before.

Well new turbo went on and had it retuned, and finished the last round of the Mcrae Rally Sprint. Power delivery is way different, and its actually easier to drive, it doesn't come onto boost mid corner now and it has heaps more mid range and top end power. We dropped 7 seconds from our previous best time and theres heaps more boost left in the turbo to wind up. The day it got tuned was 36 degrees, and every race day has been the same. So we kept boost down to 17psi and a pretty conservative tune. I am also having issues with the water pump spinning to quick and just causing cavitation of the coolant, apparently SR water pumps don't work to well above 6000rpm. Its causing the car to run hot towards the end of each run, as soon as you slow down the cars temp drops. old vs new