LittleRedSpirit

I cant see why you dont just buy a tape measure its gotta be quicker than hit and hope on the forums. Super unlikely the tailshaft will be correct. The width is ok though, ke70s arent very wide I think thats in the ballpark. I remember 1420 being the number but I could be wrong. Most people on the rollaclub forum are based in Australia, and we didnt get much U series diff stuff, and only got S series in our poverty pack ae86 chassis and the occasional panelvan..

Yeah I know that but somehow I didnt get the right model out when I typed it. Sa63 is different package again to the st141 as its got a proper W box.

Got another box of interior bits for the ae86 yesterday. Very happy. I finally have the nuts that will stop my light and wiper switches from rattling.

rt142 2sc is a poor engine with a poor borg warner transmission behind it. Look for any kind of 3sfe 4sfe or 5sfe before that. You can get rwd ones from jdm chaser/mk 2 platform or from spacia vans. Bout 90kw and efi. You could even revert to carb quite easy with a 3sfc manifold.

Pulled 2az out of the camry. Had the good pink stuff in it. Oil was old but seemingly good quality as there is no sludge in the top end. Cooling system looks brand new inside.

nav life

So you want a bolt in cheap high power capable diff for a 40 year old low powered car. I want a three way with Miranda Kerr, Kahili Blundell and Myself but that doesnt mean its possible. Most people look for a hilux diff with lsds available and shorten and modify. Costs a lot but any good thing does.

Sorry to hear mate.

Yesterday I dumped out the spent oil and I put a new filter on. Bit of a waste of an oil and filter dumping 3000k old oil. Just for science sake I decided to clean out the drain pan totally perfect, then I strained the removed oil over a fine paint filter, and examined the contents. No metal just a few foreign bodies like hairs and fluff and one small lump of sealant from the sump, but nothing alarming. I unplugged the injectors and primed the oil system first. I noticed when I removed the oil and put it into a bottle, it was about 3.7 litres, so that's about 200ml more than stock change volume with filter. Noting this I plan to run it a few mm below full on the dipstick to keep the oil levels ideal. The motor will sweat a little oil from the sump seal if you dont keep it a little below my custom slightly safe full mark anyhow. Also did an air filter wash and trimmed down my throttle cable mount so the wire aligned better. Im still not totally happy with how the throttles close. Its fine and drive able, but I think I might end up removing my inlet and rebuilding it on a bench to get all the mounting plates and pivots perfectly aligned, and if I need to adjust the port matching so be it. Id also like to drill some small holes into the adaptor plate to allow some vacuum feeds that dont have to be re plumbed into the idle control when you want to sync the itbs. Could also be used for NOS. Just saying.... I'm kinda tempted to put the 70000k motor in and then put a 50 shot on it to see how it goes while I try and push this newer engine to 11:1 compression. Bought another box of bits for the car from the same dude as before. Got a spare bunch of interior bits on the way, ac switches, cluster, shifter, ac and radio surrounds, under dash stuff, ashtray, bit of a lucky dip but it does contain some of what I'm missing.

Took it for a drive early and late yesterday. Had a bit of a hard drive up the hills, and noticed oil got to almost 120c. Seems the OEM cooler is fine for daily driving but not 30 degree plus days where you thrash it up a mountain. I'm looking into an oil cooler setup now. I plan to use something thermostatically controlled but Im not sure if its elegant to use an external thermostat or buy one thats built in to the takeoff plate. My shit is so custom no kit will be perfect so I think I should just buy the right components and make some hoses.

Picked up a box of bits for the car. Finally got some front seatbelt stalks that are still stiff enough to use 1 handed. I also got a good condition rear deck trim, and a set of switches to control the hatch wiper and washer and defog. In the box I also found spare front bar blinker lenses, genuine number plate lights, additional seatbelts, glove box, speaker trims and door handle bezels and window winders. Also a spare hatch seal and rear wiper motor. One random back seat speaker cover, and a bunch of other seat belt stuff. I also found a hatch and boot latch in unmolested condition in the box. Could only have been better if the box contained some ac bits I need or front arch liners! After this Ill be able to put my rear wiper washer setup in the car, once I work out how the rear washer works.

The link is for T series diff gears. They are 6.7 inches. The KP diff is 6 inches.

Its a jap style diff so you can remove axles, then the centre, and put a complete taller ratio centre in if you like. Or you can remove the one you have and have different gears fitted to it if you can find them.

Liberals think they can change the world, with other peoples money.

Pics dump. Put fire ex back in. Door hinges always full of misery because no gaurd liners can be found. Restored a couple of lenses in my front bar. Couple pics of warm and cold oil pressures. Tyres doing good still.

ITBs were balanced again the other day. I purchased a JDM ae86 oil pressure sender and installed that. Oil pressures seem strong, steady 2/4 to 3/4 on the gauge. Slight increases as you rev it up. Looking good. I will repurpose the oil pressure light as a shift light soon.

Yes David, dont buy a depreciating bluetooth technobox from the dealer, buy that McLaren M1 youve always wanted. its a better finacial move.

Building cars is rarely a financially sound plan. Cars, whether projects or new, are simply expensive to own and run. At least if you build a project you own every dollar, not like when you go buy a new Hilux or something, borrow 55k and end up paying back 95 to 100k. At least if you spent 100k on an old car youd have 100k worth of stuff, and if the result is good, its still better value than paying an eventual 100k for a car that is going to be worth 22k when you sell it in 6 or 7 years if your lucky. In that sense, if you buy into a car that will or is appreciating, then you can at least be in a better position.

I used simple tie wire and twisted it off with the tie wire pliers to secure the ends, you couldnt really see it and on the headers I did you could get it into pretty small spaces. Id like to see it done on the collector:

Almost everything youve mentioned doesnt bolt into a ke35. The engine and box will need mounts made, the diff also, as ta22 is coil and ke35 is leaf springs. Coilovers can be added on any vehicle, you just might have toi fabricate stuff. Buy a good MIG welder!

Im sure theres a Cypriate member on here somewhere...

Sweet jesus. Thankfully welding exists!

Over the weekend I had fitted the cube speed short shifter. I didn't like it so I removed it and returned to stock. Crazy short throw, but I like the feel of a stock one better. I fitted a new pivot cup, gasket and rubber boot to my stock one, and greased it up as well, feels like new. Looked into a new bonnet from Blits, but it will be pricey, so I need to save up.

Looks really strong!