LittleRedSpirit

Was able to order some genuine gaskets and seals for the w58, they still sell the complete kit, 54 dollars. I thought it was a good buy.

Just switched over to summer oil, went to HPR 10 over HPR5. It runs fine on 5wt but its a bit warmer up here than in Brisbane so just being cautious with it. 367380ks.

Fitted some new panhard rod, shock absorber and swaybar bushes. Back end was a bit sloppy, feels better now.

Picked up an old neglected w58 steel case transmission at a swap meet a couple of weeks ago. Only cost me 200 bucks but it was full of leaves and grime cause it had the shifter off. Took it home, cleaned it up with a wire brush in preparation for a strip and clean excercise to asses its condition. I had only bought it because it selected every gear and they felt smooth, it turned over like it was still pretty nice inside. I found the words Dellows stamped onto each half of the cases by the steel centre plate. It had had a conversion bellhousing from an old ford 6 cylinder on it, so it must have been sold by dellows originally. So I came to find it was dirty inside the rear and around the shifter. I picked out a lot of crud, like a handful of it, and then split off the rear housing. The two rear most bearings were grimy from muck sitting against them. It had no corrosion inside or on the shafts, the output and input shafts looked new, no end float and still with the blueing sort of finish, once cleaned up. Compared to every box I've had before this one looked great. So off to the gearbox shop, I ordered in the bearings, just got it back ready to use. It owes me about 520 dollars so Im stoked to end up with a steel plate w58 for that kind of spend. It will drop my highway rpm at 100kph from 2820 to 2580rpm with the taller 5th gear. No other ratios vary from my current w57. Best part is, I started looking into the speedo drive combo I need. I know my current w57 box came from a car with a 3.58 final drive, and the 3.58 final drive cars typically use a 33-11 or 32-11 speedo drive. The w58 I have found already has the 33-11 gears in it. Its an older type manual speedo w58. According to my research it might have been from an MZ11 or MZ12, an early MA61, or a late MA70. A few cars Ive looked into: RA65 33-11 speedo drive for 3.58:1 final drive SX80 32-10 speedo drive for 3.9:1 final drive. GX80 35-10 speedo drive for 4.3 final drive. LX80 32-11 speedo drive for 3.58 final drive. RT142 32-11 speedo drive for unknown diff ratio (borg parts not in Partsfan MA70 early 35-10 /4.3 MA70 late 33-11/3.727 JZA80 NA 33-10 electric/4.083 JZA 70 33-10/4.1 GA70 1GFE 32-10 3.909 GA70 1GGEU 1GGTE 33-9/4.5556 GZ10 35-10/4.3 33-10/4.1 31-10/3.0 MZ11MZ12 33-11/3.7 RA63 18RGEU 33-10/4.1 GA61 32-10/3.9 35-10/4.3 33-9/4.556 34-10/4.3 TA63 TA64 TURBO 33-10/4.1 MA61 33-11 AND 31-10 BOTH SUIT 3.7 LX90 31-10/3.7 SX60 33-11/3.7 SX90 32-11/3.583 Can infer the rt142 diff ratio would be also 3.583 from this as thats what its speedo drive suits.

I love this car. Had a great drive down to Bribie and Back for a golfing holiday. It went flawlessly the whole trip. Just wish I had AC fitted.

Yes I've been watching his series, and chatting with him. Hes doing it his own way, which is cool. It is a good guide for a plate, and he just put out a video about making an adapter to sr manifold as well thats quite good. One or two things about that gearbox choice seem a bit inelegant to me, such as the starter position going into the firewall, and the slave on top where there is no clearance, however I think he is making it race only high power turbo build so he has a diffeent set of mechaincal outcomes in mind than I.

I had a look at the ratios on the j160 from the altezza. The 6th is actually shorter than w57 5th which seems like a wasted gear. Youd still need a tallish diff ratio.

Typically Toyota rngine codes are as follows. eg 4AGE: 4 - 4th design revision, A - Engine Series, G - Wide valve performance design head typically from Yamaha, E - EFI eg 3SGE: 3 - 3rd design revision of S Engine, G- Performance Head, E - EFI. eg 4AFE: 4 the revision of A engine, F - Narrow angle valve layout for economy, E - EFI. A T later in the name means turbo, Like in 3SGTE - So thats 3rd revion of S engine, with performance head, turbo, and efi. Dont confuse this with the earlier series of Engines, the T engines, eg 3TC, 3TGTE which is the 3rd T engine desin with a carb or turbo efi respectively. Over time they added more codes for more features. A Z Later on in the name typically refers to a supercharger, eg 4AGZE. It gets weirder the later the motor, with most Toyota engines now featuring two letter model designations, Like UZ, ZZ, AZ, NZ, MZ, VZ, GR, GZ, JZ etc, and these typically are just engines produced after a certain date, but it gets confusing when they reuse letters that used to mean SC in the engine codes. Some new tech that came out got different designations in the name, for example, an gernerator tuned engine that a hybrid uses is Usually designated with an X, For example the camry hybrid 2AZFXE. The direct Injection motors are S designated, for example 2GRFSE. If thats all clear as mud then factor in how enhusiasts like to build and name their own combos, from which weve seen things like the 1.5JZ, for the man who wants more power but wont upgrade turbo, heads and manfolds on his 1JZ build, or the 7age, Which is the 1.8A 4AF engine with the GE head. This is extra confusing with the 4age aftermarket, because an original takao special 7ag is just specific build of 4a 1600 that revs super high, but a later enthusiast will think its 1.8 litres. So yeah long answer to what should have been a simple question. Heres a pic of the Beams 6 speed, the starter is in a good spot at least at first glance its on the inlet side of the engine, so if its in the right spot compared to the block you could do what I have done and just chop away some extra block and give yourself the clearance you need. To be honest, a 6 speed would be a nice addition because it has the power to highway drive an ae86 at 1800rpm but it does 2900 at 100kph. Even with a 3.58 rear end gearset. You could run 3.9 or 4.1 gears and be perfectly happy with it, and make the engine haul the IS body around a bit more spritely when youre not in overdrive. To clarify my comments, the 6 cylinder G engine in the Altezza shares the pattern with the older T engine, which makes your transmission an upgrade for older corolla and celica platform cars, E and A chassis codes, that had a T engine. So thats who could use your box aside from an altezza G engine owner. I'd suggest to offload the G box and swap it for the S pattern 6 speed from the RS200 altezza, and then the 2azfe would at least connect to the box thats in the car, and you can start investigating clearances for inlet, exhaist, steering, crossmembers etc.

Hello, thanks for reading. As far as I know the Toyota G engine pattern is shared with the old T engine, making your gearbox ideal upgrade for an older corolla or carina with 3tgte etc. The best option for a 2azfe would be a beams 6 speed, and custom flywheel to make it work. As far as I know the beams 6 speed has the desireable cold side starter, but Id have to see one to confirm, but being S pattern the dowels will centre the box correctly and you might just need to drilll and tap a few holes.

So I have been continuing to drive and work on this car. Ive done a whole ot of commuting down to brisbane for work in it. Its capable of over 600klms to a tank, which is great. Bris to Maryborough return on 1 tank is nice. Ive made some great advances with the running of the car lately too. Its always been quite fine to use, but just have always been chasing performance at the low tps openings, on and off throttle smoothness, typically in the zones where I guess the map sensor is compensating. All this came to a head when I decided for spacial reasons (after rubbing through some uni filters on the bonnet and exploding 4 more at 170kph - photo attached) to put the shorter inlet back on, and to test the performance of it now that Im running more consistent fuel pressure. I was worried the voltage drop I was having in the past gave me a poor idea of how that setup perfomed. Well I discovered that the shorter inlet is indeed less powerful, and it actually really caused some problems with tuning in the map sensor areas too, as the car started surging at cruise rpm and tps and the idle went to shit and it started idling high, idle creeping, and hunting. I tried a number of things. I checked the plugs, and I actually found an odd one in there with a different electrode height and a higher heat range. I suspected that might have been causing some uneven performance accross the cylinders so I chucked those plugs and put some new NGKs in at 1.05mm gap, just about 0.05 under the stock gap. Well this made it only marginally better, and I was still at a loss. The first touch of the throttle was becoming kinda snappy, like hesitation then over enrichment, like the transient throttle enrich was coming in late. It was beating on the diff. I was looking at the maps and logs and adjusting things incrementally trying to smooth it out, and not getting anywhere. I noticed there was a big fuelling change occuring between rich and lean in the first few percent of tps opening, when the map sensor was correcting. I noiticed that the map sensor values were switching up and down by 20kpa at low tps. I was baffled. I got onto Adaptronic tech suppoirt for ideas, because I didnt want to keep making adjustments to a tune that was pretty good otherwise. They said to test the map sensor with a vacuum pump, and to try running without map prediction on, and see if the uneven fuelling clears up. That was a good tip, because the transient enrichment seemed to be the thing coming in uuneven and giving the lean rich event. It drove smoothly with no map prediction enabled, albeit with less power during transient events. This was a big clue. So what now? Well, I revisited all the data in the map senmsor prediction tables, I checked against recent logs and was able to update the values and there were some that were 10 or 20 percent out of whack. WHat you see in the logs is the Map value the ecu is calculating fuelling from, the final value after prediction is applied, so it kinda chwecked out that it was lean by 20percent where the map prediction table was 20kpa different to what it should have been, That should have fixed it in theory, but it didnt. SO wtf now? Well I started on other theory around the map sensor. I was considering putting an external one on, or actually finding a vacuum pump and trying to do the test on the sensor in the ecu to rule it out when I had another idea. I thought, since this first touch has never really been a smooth event in this car it might be a problem thats beyond software and in the mechanical system. I had the idea that I might be taking my map sensor reading from a bad location. I had been getting the map sensor data from the idle control maifold that I had designed. I started to wonder if everything going on here was a problem for generating a clean accurate signal. The cylinder type manifold connects the 4 ports to the idle controller with even access to air, it also accepts the pcv via the typical one way valve off the top cover, it gets the purge valve returns input to it, it provides the vacuum reference for the fuel reg, which could also lead to a lean spot if its too slow to rise the pressure as the throttle opens, and it was also the place where the map sensor gets its signal. I started thinking about it and I wondered if the signal quality was poor and I would be better off getting this signal from a dedicated connection to map sensor only. I decided that since the fuel reg and map sensor are about the metering and finer running of the car, that they would have a dedicated feed of MAP signal. I made a 4-2-1 hose setup from the calibration ports on the manifold adapter, and teed in the extra feed for the fuel reg reference. I plugged the old map sensor hole in the idle bottle manifold. Problem solved. The car now feels as smooth from the first touch as any car I've driven, even the single throttle ones, its just as driveable, can hold constant throttle just off zero without hunting or surging, its just dead smooth. Total win. In other news, Anika is amazing and were very lucky she is such a good kid. Thers also this low key R31 skyline posse up here, I see about 3 or 4 different JDM look r31 here around town. I also treated my self to a dished wheel and extra long bosskit, its great, really easy to control.

Been a fan for many years. I saved a video of the black fastback many years ago doing some rings. Glad youre still playing Corollas.

Ive got the 2az tuned on 98. I want extra knock resistance because its on itbs that suck in hot air. Have run it on 95 and 91 before with only a small loss of torque detected on the 91, with no tune adjustments made. Its nice to know I could buy any available fuel in a pinch to get home. Im sure if I clipped the timing slightly at peak there would be no long term differences to worry about. Unable to report economy as Ive not run enough of the lower octane fuels.

Commuting to Brisbane for work in this car is very cold this time of year. I stopped here at my favourite spot for coffee. My hands were stiff. The sunrise was amazing though.

Ive now been for a long highway mission to Brisbane and back for work. The Maxxis tyre is actually very good. The straight line grip is good, probably about as good as the non warmed up 595rsr. It feels like it rolls really easily, it doesnt tram track, and the steering is more laid back and airy as opposed to fighting you a lot on rough roads, it just goes straight. When turning you feel the lesser grip, a little more prone to understeer on harder steering inputs, responds better to being a bit more measured in the corners. Havent had wet roads to drive on yet, but I will report in due time. Wheel is easier to move in slow going, makes the quick rack lighter to handle. Compared to the rsr tyre, these are quieter on the road too, could run the stereo about 25 percent quieter and still have adequate volume. They are loud and chirpy when spinning, the rsr just quietly slipped.

Im keen to see as well, obviously not going to have the dry grip Im used to, but I need to be able to get from maryborough to Brisbanein all weather so I really need something that wont aquaplane in the wet. Im going from 205/50 to 195/50. This should also help with the aquaplaning. This is the tyre. Guy at the tyre shop was a big fan of this tyre. I could have gotten a similar spec federal for a lot less but according to the reviews they are not as good in wet.

Driver seat was flaking dandruff from the foam so I had the local trimmer, Reg mckenna, do the work to repair the bolsters and side panels. Totally stoked with it, its a stronger fabric and stiffer foam and he wrapped the seat from with some material to stop the foam deforming. Breaking it in again now. Got some steel cut and folded up by a local fab shop, and Ill be making a super low seat rail for passenger side to match drivers soon. Ive got some new sliders to fit in with it, should be great. I decided to re angle the radiator and add clearance for the fans, so I redrilled how the top cooling plate mounts, and tightened up the seal between the rad support and rad with some more rubber seal. made an extra 10mm or so space to be able to work on the front of the motor and to fit a fan shroud some day. Ordered some more streetable tyres so I can travel to Brisbane for work in greater safety. The old 595 rsrs are showing their age especially on the back end. It looks like someone has tried to slash one of them unsuccessfully. They aquaplane above 80 klm per hour. Going with some Maxxis HP5, theyre a V rated (240ks and hour) road tyre with fairly nice wet performance.

Is that an R33 4 pot on a machined xt130 upright?

on point 4, a desirable oil system just hits 100 degrees C to make sure any condensation in the motor is evaporated. Any hotter for prolonged periods will deteriorate the oil.

There are fuel tank restoration products that let you treat the rust and seal it over before using the tank.

My friend, that looks like something a pensioner cobbled together, they certainly arent factory.

The left rack boot is changed, its been dead for a while. Put some fresh moly grease into the rack after cleaning it up and regreased the tie rod ends. Spilit boot on the left side and no spare to change it, but theres no play and when the thing is installed the remaining rubber caps it off. Ill just let it die a slow death and change it down the line. Decided to fix my tacho, as it stopped working when I rewired the fuel pumps. Decided to untape and trace many things, ended up shortening up the power feeds to ignition and ecu power by about a metre since they are side by side in the glove box. I checked over all the tacho wiring, and removed the old fuel pump circuit that was balled up in the back seat area since the rewire. This meant a lot of dash and cluster had to come out, and also the blower motor and vent for the fan. While it was all apart I re routed a lot of things, tested all the tacho wiring from the pullup to the dash, and the pullup to the left kick and all was well, so I checked the power side and realised that it was powered by the spare pin 87 on the old fuel pump relay. All I had to do was reinstate a relay there to power it, and to put it all back how it was minus the now removed fuel pump circuit. So I tidied it all up, put it back together all but the last couple screws, fired it up, and tested it, and tacho still dead. Had a quick think, decided the work I had done was sound and then checked the fuse to the relay, and of course it had blown when I rewired the fule pumps most likely. Changed that, then perfect tachometry. Yesterday I clearanced the bonnet a bit more under the reverse cowl and drilled a drain hole so water can flow out and not build up under it. Ive had a bit of an issue with the number 1 filter rubbing through on a sharp endge it now passes freely where it needed to. I also took the breater outlet off my catch can and sealed it to reduce the amount of rich running smell you get while its warming up. Seems unaffected by the change as far as how it runs. https://youtu.be/O_-iBGJGoBs

I never get tired of this.

Pulled off the inlet system and test fitted the beams intake on a wooden pattern I made. Fits great, tucks under bonnet by a cm or two, misses brakes. Requires clutch fluid relocation but the master can stay. Need to have the pattern turned into a cnc adapter and Ill be good. Hardest bit is the proximity to the radiator, but with t tight bend it can be fitted. Tore down the back left drum. The handbrake adjuster slipped ages ago, it still worked, it just could not be adjusted tighter, and caused a clickin noise when brakes applied. I pulled it down and reshimmed the pivots, cleaned it out, and changed out a leaking wheel cylinder for a new one. Seems great now. Also had a stuck caliper in my triton, so it was a week of brake rebuilds at my house. Triton was getting poor economy, and I detected extra drag when creeping, so sure enough, for the second time the back left caliper had stuck. I tore it down, ordered 2 new pistons and a seal kit, hones, cleaned and rebuilt the caliper and all is well now. Got 2 rwd kits ready to go. Got 3 more in the build. Need orders so I can have the budhet to do the single tb manifold adapter.

I wrote a guide on 20v into ae71 years ago, check it out in engine conversions.