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About ms85er

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  1. Open to reasonable offers, the mechanics of this car are A1.
  2. I have a 1978 Toyota Crown MS85 manual with tonnes of upgrades below: Currently registered, runs like a dream and kicks over in a few seconds most days, goes hard, and reliable AF Bad bits: Bad rust in back window section, other smaller bits of rust be easily fixable and body is mint. However, paint is faded and needs respray or at-least some clear coat Picture see: https://imgur.com/8gyw6le https://imgur.com/skh7nln https://imgur.com/6h1svvm Upgrades: It has a fully rebuilt motor, low k gearbox and fully rebuilt diff professionally with receipts and warranty All items listed as New or reconditioned have roughly 12,000 kms or less on them except diff and front brakes are literally brand new 1978 Toyota Crown MS85 5M-GE 2.8L Twin-cam engine (MX73 cressida) (about 12,000 kms since rebuild) W56 Manual gearbox (2004 hilux) (low km) MS112 F series Disc brake Diff Fully rebuilt, brakes as well: new rotors, pads, brake lines (with 3.58 rt142 corona gears, ms85 pinion flange) MS112 Brake master cylinder (completely rebuilt) MS112 Royal Stub axles, Rotors and Reconditioned Brake Calipers MS123 5M-GE high volume Oil Pump (1.5" gears, relief valve shimmed 3mm) Crown 4M mid Sump and oil dip stick Auto to manual conversion: -MS85 clutch pedal, clutch master cylinder, hard clutch line & flexible clutch line, manual shifter shroud -MA70 supra non turbo shifter housing position and shifter lever, shortened shifter, clutch fork, new throwout bearing -MA70 supra non turbo slave cylinder -MA70 supra non turbo bellhousing -MA70 supra non turbo manual flywheel, gearbox stays and sandwhich plate -MX73 cressida auto starter motor -Nachi pilot bearing installed RPM heavy duty clutch 340lph in-tank fuel pump Aeroflow rollover vent valve z200 ryco fuel filter mounted with 60mm bosche fuel pump bracket MX73 cressida exhaust headers with 2 inch exhaust from collector back MX73 cressida accelerator and cable MX73 cressida brake booster bracket Radiator reconditioned heater core reconditioned Pitman arm reconditioned Tailshaft reconditioned Front calipers reconditioned Rear calipers reconditioned original motor & gearbox mounts KFFL-01 lowered front King Springs TRL-8 lowered rear Lovells springs New front HQ holden KYB excel-G shocks New Protex DR727 Front Rotors New C-tek 10202290 Front Brake Pads New RDA725 Rear brake rotors New TRW GDB193 Rear Brake Pads New Rear Protex Brake hoses H1802 New clutch fork boot New rubber gearbox mount New toyota flywheel bolts New Tridon Highflow thermostat New Gates 101R timing belt New NSK timing pulley New Gates accessory belts New Denso O2 Sensor New radiator cap New toyota genuine water pump New bosch distributor cap New aftermarket knock sensor New NGK ignition lead set New NGK spark plugs New outer tie rods LH & RH New idler arm New lower ball joints New front windscreen New Aerpro AP22 electric antenna Chinavasion JSD-520 Headunit Alpine SPJ-17C2 6.5' Coaxial speakers Aerpro 6.5' carpeted speaker spacers New windscreen washer pump SCA pod filter stainless steel Pod filter adapter ichiba 55mm 12x1.5 M12 P1.5 14.2mm extended wheel studs HQ Holden jellybean rims 14 x 7 (114.3x5) +30mm offset Aeroflow 1/4 NPT oil pressure gauge adapter (oil pressure sender hole cut to 1/4 NPT) MG-f oil pressure switch (5.7psi low oil light) Autotechnica digital oil pressure gauge and sensor SAS coolant gauge hose adapter Autotechnica BOSS adapter kit Chinese replica MOMO steering wheel 2" SAS tacho and coolant temp gauges ebay gearnob $2999.95 ono, diff is worth $1000-1500 alone -I intended on putting a torsen LSD from a IS200 sports in it, but didn't get around to it. May consider a swap but don't offer me $500 ke70s please. absolute dream donor car for a old Crown, Corona, Mark II or possibly even Cressida. Location: Brisbane, QLD Contact via messages to arrange viewing
  3. Ok thank you both for your responses.
  4. Could I kindly get a yes or no response please. Can u put different gears in a gearbox or is it too expensive?
  5. Hi thanks for the response. It's a heavy car And I already have the best diff gears for highway cruising. A torquey first and second is suitable. I need a better fifth however
  6. Hi, Is it possible to frankenstein my W56 gearbox and the fifth gear from a W58 in it. Also, how expensive would it be for a transmission shop to do it. Cheers.
  7. I was really hoping to avoid spending money, but thanks for recommending master cylinder exchange at wynnum. I got the master cylinder and proportioning valve rebuilt there. It was in much worse condition than I first thought, the piston was seized. He took a look at the proportioning valve as well, and machined a new part for it, it was all very reasonably priced as well. I guess it does pay to spend the money to get it repaired right otherwise it probably would of just spread rust to the rest of the system and seize up brake pistons as well. She's looking good now
  8. Awesome car, a lot of work ahead!
  9. Hi all, I've had to source a brake master cylinder and proportioning valve from the wreckers for my car. The parts are in reasonable condition with a bit of rust on the outside housing, the guy at the wreckers said the car had been sitting for at least a few years. I looked up some parts catalogs and it appears they don't make rebuild kits for it anymore because 1981 was a while ago (its not a corolla). Basically I want to throw these parts on the car but I don't want them seizing up all my brakes. I read you can soak the master cylinder in vinegar, and put it in the dishwasher apparently, don't think the misses is gonna let me do that. If I have some rust inside the piston area is this a reasonable idea to soak it in vinegar for a bit and throw it on the car, or is there any other way I can cheaply and easily do a minor reco. I wouldn't trust myself completely pulling one apart and putting it back together correctly haha. Cheers
  10. Too right. Experience helps a lot as well. Your electronics engineer mate sounds like a handy consultant.
  11. Yah my post probably seems confusing because the whole thing was confusing. It was at the point where I was trying anything to get it to work. Those multi-meter readings were wack. An interesting thing I learnt was that the alternator really does push out most of the voltage to operate the vehicle. If for some reason your not making close the 13.8 or 14.2 area at idle your 12v battery doesn't do a whole lot. It will keep the car running but they are optimised for starting the car primarily. My problem was varying voltage making lights go dim and fuel pump struggle. I had this issue with the first alternator and the second reconditioned denso alternator (thats right a faulty reconditioned denso). The denso alternator also threw the charge light but my old alternator didn't. I didn't think adjusting the idle and throttle cable was really necessary as the car idled fine. However, while it did idle in line with typical idle for that engine, its recovery from an idle drop was just too slow. This is where that idle adjustment thing also helped, so the 14.2 volts would go down below 11 volts. As I learned the battery is really only for starting the car, it just can't handle the demands of fuel pump and lights that well. It's funny because only 1 website out of 12 I visited actually explained that correctly. Every website that thoroughly explained charging systems basically gave the impression that if the alternator isn't working it just won't charge the battery.
  12. ITS FIXED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So I have no idea what those erratic multi-meter readings were all about, maybe my multi meter is stuffed, Also, I purchased a reconditioned 100amp alternator which was fitted to the car when I was having these issues and it was faulty. The problem was a combination between throttle cable and idle adjustment, although the particular motor I have doesn't technically have an idle adjustment, it's an "idle bandwidth" type adjustment for the ecu, its primarily used to adjust the idle. So overall it was a massive headache. Thanks for the help everyone!
  13. So update, I have tested everything imaginable. I get 14.2 volts at the battery at idle, however its not consistent. As soon as the idle drops the voltage goes all over the place down to 11 volts or even lower. Installed a brand new battery today. No difference. The Fuel pump was certainly not getting enough power, the ignition system is barely getting enough power at low rpm, car randomly stalls. I have put a voltage regulator on the fuel pump and it works brilliantly now, I can hear it loud and consistent now. So I was using the alternator that came with the motor when I had these issues. I installed an denso reconditioned 100 amp alternator with appropriate pulley. The pulley ratio is still very close to the original pulley that came on the alternator so that's got nothing to do with it. The only difference is since the first aged 70amp alternator and the 100 amp I now get a dim alternator light on the dash, where as the 70 amp alternator was happy. I have run a wire directly from the post on the alternator to the positive on the battery with nothing else hooked up, makes no difference. I've installed extra grounding wires and check the voltage at the post of the alternator to the battery ground and there is the same 14.2 volts at idle. The sense wire going to the alternator reads about 14.1 volts but I don't see there being any issues there as the alternator just needs to know roughly what voltage the battery is at. Anyone here an auto electrician, I give up.
  14. I'll try and get a reading with the DMM when I can get someone to help me, can't drive and get readings myself.
  15. Thanks for all the suggestions. I've thrown a 100amp MR2 alternator on it already :P So I noticed something interesting when I drove one of my other cars today. It does it as well! just not as bad. So apparently the current draw of the fuel pump just cannot be sustained at low rpm. When I reverse into a car spot I can hear the frequency of the pump drop as well. So basically the only solution is to probably bump up the idle a bit. It strange though because I would of thought if the alternator drops its output below 13.8v that the 12v battery would take the hit and act kinda like a capacitor to keep the voltage up to the fuel pump since it can handle large current draw from the starter I would of thought the small amount drawn from the fuel pump would be no problems, apparently not. So long story, me being paranoid about killing the fuel pump is just me being paranoid. The lights do dip a bit but they aren't so much of a problem. It would appear some fuel pumps don't get the required juice at low rpm is my conclusion. Think I might buy a voltage regulator to throw on the fuel pump to maintain longevity so I don't have to pull my fuel tank apart again. https://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm looking at the PST SR500 13.8v output with 15 amps continuous supply. I saw a guy on a supra forum threw one on his fuel pump to maintain a solid power supply for his 2jz supra making big power.
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