ms85er

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About ms85er

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  1. Electrical circuit issues

    I'll try and get a reading with the DMM when I can get someone to help me, can't drive and get readings myself.
  2. Electrical circuit issues

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I've thrown a 100amp MR2 alternator on it already :P So I noticed something interesting when I drove one of my other cars today. It does it as well! just not as bad. So apparently the current draw of the fuel pump just cannot be sustained at low rpm. When I reverse into a car spot I can hear the frequency of the pump drop as well. So basically the only solution is to probably bump up the idle a bit. It strange though because I would of thought if the alternator drops its output below 13.8v that the 12v battery would take the hit and act kinda like a capacitor to keep the voltage up to the fuel pump since it can handle large current draw from the starter I would of thought the small amount drawn from the fuel pump would be no problems, apparently not. So long story, me being paranoid about killing the fuel pump is just me being paranoid. The lights do dip a bit but they aren't so much of a problem. It would appear some fuel pumps don't get the required juice at low rpm is my conclusion. Think I might buy a voltage regulator to throw on the fuel pump to maintain longevity so I don't have to pull my fuel tank apart again. https://www.powerstream.com/dc2.htm looking at the PST SR500 13.8v output with 15 amps continuous supply. I saw a guy on a supra forum threw one on his fuel pump to maintain a solid power supply for his 2jz supra making big power.
  3. Electrical circuit issues

    Yah I wish. Went to supercheap bought one of these http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/SCA-Battery-Lead-18-Lug-Lug/15022 Put it between the car chassis and the nut holding the back of the alternator. Also bought some new battery terminals, hooked them up. Took the battery out of the misses' car, hooked it up. Problem Persists. The only thing I can think of is that the engine block is painted so maybe I should scrub it back with a wire brush for the ground cable going between the block and the negative batt terminal. Pretty sure my next step is to buy another alternator, failing that, give up.
  4. Electrical circuit issues

    Ok thanks Jeremy. It's a full chassis car, so it's not quiet like most peoples corollas. The body panels are basically bolted to the solid frame. Makes it awesome for removing body panels to access the engine bay but could be causing issues with grounding. The car did come with more grounding straps than usual. So I have a 4 gauge wire from the engine to the negative battery terminal, A short 4 gauge from the battery terminal to the side body panel next to the battery. Obviously the engine is grounded to the solid frame by the engine mounts. Considering its a full chassis car with the body panels bolted to the frame you would think that the ground would be fine, but I'm considering running a 4 gauge wire from the engine to the frame, it seems redundant considering the engine is bolted to the frame with engine mounts, but I'm running out of ideas.
  5. Electrical circuit issues

    Thanks for the replies Banjo, thanks for the suggestions. Alternator is good, charging fine much diagnosis says Good! 14v+ for days. I've checked all connections between engine and chassis to the negative terminal of battery, All is well. ECU has nothing to do with charge its ancient motor very simple efi. I added some earthing wires between engine to the car chassis just for the hell of it. Alternator is brand new no problems there. So something strange happened. I measure the resistance between the case of the alternator and another spot on the top of the engine 0.01 ohms or something like that. I turn the car on and I get 12 ohms. WTF? I get a reading of 36 ohms between the alternator case and the negative terminal of the battery with the car on as well. with it off it's about 1/3rd of that. Something strange is going on when the alternator is in the circuit and I'm ultra confused. Took the car to battery world, did a few tests said battery fine, could raise the idle a little bit to help the alternator out but that's just a band aid fix to get some more supply to the fuel pump/lights still sure electrical system has issues major issues. Rebuilder86 thanks for the suggestions, as mentioned above I have a 4gauge wire from engine to battery terminal and its hooked up fine with no corrosion. I don't have it going to the chassis though. I guess that's why I added some smaller cables going from the engine head to the chassis.
  6. Electrical circuit issues

    Hi all, So I have an old ms85 crown with an efi conversion in it. So strange thing, The car works perfectly running from the battery with no alternator. With an alternator in the circuit something strange is going on with the electrical system where the rpm affects the power in the whole car. So with the alternator hook up, I idle and put some load on the car and release the clutch, the lights dim, the fuel plump strains and the whole electrical system is pissed off. I unplug the main feed from the alternator to battery and run the car off the battery and everything is perfect. I have a new alternator so this is not the problem, there was nothing wrong with my old alternator either. The battery appears to be ok. I think I'm in the more advanced area of troubleshooting, maybe the electrical system is changing is reference to ground in relation to alternator output. I don't know its strange I've disconnected as much as possible to troubleshoot but as soon as a put the main feed from the alternator charge terminal to the battery on, I get rpm varied voltage throughout the whole car. Help is much appreciated.
  7. General Electrical System Question

    thanks for the responses, iv been a bit swamped, ill check out those things and report back. cheers
  8. Hi, My car is acting a little strange and I'm trying to figure out the cheapest fix. I have a Toyota crown with an efi engine conversion and I modified the fuel tank with an in tank walbro fuel pump. The car drives perfectly well, but when I first start the car at idle I can hear the frequency of the fuel pump straining, almost as if there is not enough power to it. Then when you let the clutch out and start driving, the headlights dip, fuel pump frequency drops significantly and the whole car kinda of strains because the electrical system is not supplying enough power. I know the wiring is sufficient gauge to the fuel pump and it's not an individual fuel pump issue, its power to the whole car. The battery appears to work fine because it starts first time, every time. The battery terminals are good quality, and the grounds on the car are good. It has the stock 55 or 60 amp alternator and the car idles about 1000 rpm. I'm wonder whether I need to be get a bigger battery, or would poor output from the alternator cause this. Cheers
  9. The Rwd 2Az-Fe Thread.

    Post edited I couldn't find the post delete button. Long time reader, first time poster, Awesome thread keep it up!
  10. Power Steering In Ke70/ae71

    topic has been bought up a billion times, can do but requires effort and parts sourcing and as stated above, unless its your daily and u plan on making it ur daily for a long time, and have to fit into tight parking spots, there is no point.
  11. Lowering Springs Brand Variations

    I've attached a photo, for some reason it wont let me insert it. This is before the lowered springs, I will post an after pic next time I'm somewhere near it. No droop.
  12. Lowering Springs Brand Variations

    I'll post some pics tonight, I'm being as objective as possible, a tape measure would hardly measure the difference between the original rear springs and the 'lowered' rear springs, the rear literally hasn't moved, maybe 3mm lower max. As for the front, I'm not complaining about the height of the springs they supplied me, I'm just wondering whether in anyone experience they have found variations between brands.
  13. Hi, I need a bit of help with lowering my car. I have a ms85 crown, I ordered some lovells springs for front and rear, because they were the only company that I was aware of that made a lowered rear spring for my car (since I've found pedders makes one as well). So I installed the "sports low" springs which are the first level of low. The front is now scrubbing when I go over bumps in the road, and seems to have a soft spring rate, and the rear has barely even moved, but has a solid spring rate. It's really noticeable when corner that the rears are much stiffer. Has anyone come across variations between brands?, If I get pedders lowered springs for the rear is it likely to come down?, I would cut them at least temporarily but a mate suggested against that because of the design of the springs, and for the front, If I get kings or pedders would it likely change the height, or am I venturing into custom territory? Cheers.
  14. The car is a 92 4Runner V6 3VZE, hasn't blown a head gasket for a decade now, but now leaking from the rear main worse than ever, was rebuilt about 10 years ago, the leak from rear main probably in the last 2-3 years. Makes sense, so would a small amount of RTV help on the outer edge, speaking of which, where do they normally leak? I imagine on the inner edge around the crank?