altezzaclub

I used these when changing the oil seal on the Celica T-series in my KE70. Not a lot of help to you I'm afraid, the rest will be on Google somewhere.

The last one we did was with an ammonia detergent and leaving soaking rags on it for an hour or two.

You can pull the indicator stalk apart to sand the contacts if you're keen, but the main thing is to put the headlights onto relays. There are kits made for this job on Ebay, either the $125 ones from Vic or wait for the $30 ones to turn up in Australia again. I figure they are all made in China from the same components. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Headlight-H4-Headlamp-Light-Bulb-Ceramic-Socket-Plugs-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Kit/330997592807?epid=25018508875&hash=item4d10fe72e7:g:yzwAAOSwEZtc2-CH You can re-do the wiring with relays yourself, but its nowhere near as neat and tidy, and both methods mean there is no high-beam light unless you also find a resistor to put inline. Check "The Girls KE70", it was one of the first jobs we did.

Sadly true.. I don't mind is people waste their time on Facebook etc, but if we are to actually lose the information on forums we will be looking for the non-existent town libraries to find out how to do anything on vintage petrol-powered cars in a decade or two. There may not be much desire to add anything further to the various forums, but to delete them is like burning the Bible. If there is no history on the internet, history will get re-written be every new Govt!

http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/ " Thanks to a generous donation from one of the clubs longest standing members (WDE_BDY) the forum will remain online until 17/02/2020. Until that time registrations have been turned off, as has posting of new topics and replying to old topics. The forum is now just a information database or portal and the search feature is your friend. The way we figure it is that if it hasn't been asked in the last 17-18 years then it can't be that important a question. " Ouch- all that knowledge will vanish!

Can you adapt one of these $50 ones?? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-GAS-TANK-GAUGE-SENDING-UNIT-FOR-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE70-TE70-AE70-79-87/132616051279?hash=item1ee0885a4f:g:06kAAOSwVRxb2nqF

That is pretty strange, do both of them give a 100% hot gauge reading if you earth the sensors out one at a time?

Usually we have a vacuum switch on the carb side there, the dizzy side is the temp gauge. Do you think the dizzy side one broke? I don't think it should look like this- and they replaced it with the carb-side one that works? Anyway, it works... You can put a thermometer in the radiator top when its cold and just let it idle until it warms up, so you can check what temperature is which mark on the gauge. There has been many a head gasket blown from a gauge that said "half" when the motor said "boiling!" If you have both on the temp gauge, it should read twice as hot as it is, although I don't expect them to be the same units so they probably have different resistances. You could measure their resistance when cold, and again when hot, and see if they work the same.

Yep, that's all you need. Is it easier to put the can by the dizzy/heater hose firewall? Any hose would do, so long as it doesn't kink over time. The dreaded boat anchor.. if you get up Walcha way we have a couple sitting around doing nothing as we used the AE71s for 4AGE conversions. You could do one up and swap it in.

" 12v indicate between coil(-) and earth. " No, go further... there must be 12V at one arm of the points with the points open. " BO wire goes to distributor from resistor up point." That doesn't sound right. The power must flow through the coil and earth out through the points of the distributor. So +12V to the coil +ve, then coil -ve to the distributor, through the points and to earth. Its the cycling earth of the points that fires the coil. So the BO can go straight to the coil +ve to give it 12V, just like the red wire from ignition does. More Google needed!

PCV is to burn the blowby fumes when the motor is working hard. When the throttle is well open and the vacuum in the inlet is almost nothing a small spring pushes the PCV valve open and fumes get sucked into the motor to get burned. They're replaced by clean air from the air cleaner, but with the ports so close together it hardly matters, it certainly doesn't 'flush' the block! When you lift off the throttle and the vacuum in the inlet manifold increases it sucks the PCV valve shut against the spring, so it is closed at idle. Then the fumes push out the other port into the aircleaner, reversing the flow of when the PCV was open. In theory there are far less fumes at idle with the motor not working. You could delete the PCV and close off one port. Run the other to your catch can and then vent the catch can into the air cleaner. That setup you have just covers the bonnet and everything in oil, so venting the catch can like that just makes a mess. 4AGEs don't have a PCV, they keep a continual suction on the block and must have the dipstick sealed. Probably helps with leaks through the oil seals too.

Easy- Take the wires off the coil +ve, insulate their ends and put a wire battery +ve to coil +ve. Coil -ve goes to distributor as usual. Hook it up and make sure you have 12v at the points with them open. Either a multimeter or just a screwdriver across the points to show a spark. Leave all the rest of the wiring intact and the starter motor should work. This will feed 12V to the coil, while Toyota reduce it to 9V when the car is driving around. That's what the ballast resistor does usually, as it is not a 12V coil.

OK, so it does run when wired correctly, we can assume no components like alternators or regulators are faulty. The wiring diagram will show you which wires go from the alternator to the voltage regulator and where they connect. It will have the colours of each wire too. Three wires go from the alternator to the regulator, you should have the alty contacts labelled F, N and B. When they are on the alty you can test each one at the regulator to make sure you have a circuit, then plug them in. The ignition light wire comes off the regulator as in the diagram. Wire that all up and see if the ignition light works. The fuel cutoff valve is on the side of the carb, you might not have one fitted. The click you hear might be the main relay, you can feel it click with you fingers. Good luck!

Was the motor running before you did whatever you did?

Post up a photo.. I can't think of why you'd need two, are they the same units? Are they both wired in? Where do the wires go? Does it have an electric fan? You use a second sensor for those.

Lack of spark or lack or fuel or lack of timing. Was the motor running before you did whatever you did? Have you tested the ignition with a spark plug on the block sparking, or a screwdriver across the open points? Do you have a multimeter to make sure there is voltage at the points and coil? Have you connected the fuel cutoff valve and does it work? Have you wired the ballast resistor into the circuit.

This will be a good start.. best one I've ever found. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

Awesome Dave! Takes me back to my my Datsun 1600s! I suppose it ends up looking like a small Celica... There ya go Pete, just copy that.

Yeah, its a slanty. The usual quad lights fit straight onto a flatty, but your slanty has different panels from the screen forward, including the radiator front panel. So you either do the whole flatfront conversion and cut the radiator panel to suit around the headlights, its not a lot of cutting, or you just modify the front to make it like the blue one there.

What did it look like in the flesh Dave?? I only saved that photo because I think about doing it now & then...

If its a slanty, then yes, that is true, change everything back to the windscreen. Although you could just make the lights fit... If its a flatfront, which I expect it is, then all you need are the lights as far as I know.

Well, it drove back to Orange without problems, except for a plug lead jumping off the dizzy in the first 5minutes. I'll buy a new coil & put Ronnies back, and watch for carbon buildup in the cylinders. Maybe drive it harder too, I did glance down when overtaking one time & saw 7000rpm, and it sounded no different to 5000rpm, so its amazingly smooth and enthusiastic. Well over my usual 3300rpm cruise for hour after hour. Back up in a couple of weeks!

All organic, so we never even wholesale it. There are lots of restaurants and small organic shops that will buy it, more than we can produce at the moment. Give it a couple of years to get sorted out and we'll see how big it can grow. The next step is for Steve to work out a 12-month planting timetable and just see how it goes. Organic Certification is being done right now. Tomorrow is Monday, so that means a late afternoon picking greens & packing them in the freezing wind, followed by picking greens frozen in the frost on Tuesday morning before he heads off in the Hino for deliveries.. I'm hoping to head home then and sit by the heater in Orange!

OK, its been weeks working on it now and then, but it was finally assembled yesterday.. and didn't start! I checked one cyl and it had 150psi, which shows what hot cams do at cranking speed compared to stock cams in Mao at 200psi. Long story short, I swiped the coil & igniter off Ronnie's 4AGE, he hasn't done the conversion yet, and tried the coil. That didn't make it spark, so I tried the igniter as well, and THAT didn't work! So i went through all the testing in the manual, which showed the dizzy sensors for iGf and iGt were OK, the coil had a fine low-voltage side but the resistance on the high-voltage circuit was high (it was a stock 4k coil..) so I fitted Ronnie's one properly, and I measured the wiring from the ECU to the igniter. The final test is to put 3volts into the pink wire of the igniter and see if the coil sparks... which it did! So i hooked it all up and it ran! Fked if I know, maybe it needed to be reminded that it was an igniter, or maybe there is some really subtle intermittent fault in a wire that I'm about to discover on the trip home. Maybe the coil got hot on the trip up and couldn't keep going.. It was old and corroded inside the high-voltage contact. Anyway, now I know a lot more about 4AGE igniters, and tomorrow it needs the ignition timing checked. Seems to be running rich too, I can check that on the mixture display when its tuned. Maybe that's where the carbon comes from, the oxy sensor has been lying to me and the cleanup this time has sorted it out. I re-did all the manifold and exhaust joints and tidied up quite a few little things.

In the general chaos Lewis dropped his KE70 in saying it had a terrible vibration in the car and it had ruined the clutch. He'd just paid a mech to put new bearings in the driveshaft last year and it had never been quite right, then got much worse.. So up on the hoist and we found a driveshaft with sort-of OK front universals, a new center joint, and a completely dry & destroyed rear uni! The clutch?? Well, the circlip slipped along the cable and it went all soggy, as KE70s do! "A rally car" you ask? Ah, a desk for my desktop computer so I can read Parrots 4AGE manual while fixing the Girls KE70 in the workshop! Next trip!! I promise!