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Jammcn07

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About Jammcn07

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    Jamie mcneill

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  1. UPDATE So, I got the sender unit repaired. New plate and resistor wire done here in Perth WA at Speedline instruments. Now, I drained the tank just enough to thrown the unit back in, put 20 odd liters in it and the gauge came up off the E mark to about 1/5 or 1/4 approx.... Happy days, or so I thought..... Then off to the petrol station and filled her up, it took another 20 litres. At my estimation that's probably some where just short of 50 litres, Now without Gregorys guide I cannot remember the ke38 tank capacity, but I'm guessing its dam near full and i couldn't get anymore in it at the pump. Now my bloody gauge is ready just over half. For me its ready exactly half a tank less than whats in there.... ANY ideas why ?
  2. Ill pull the whole lot out again in the weekend, take some photos and have a look at the top of the spring in relation to its position. I was only concentrated on the bottom. I'm thinking somehow the top plate it jammed. Ill come back with Pics once its all out, Cheers
  3. Hey guys, So ive done the dirty on the front springs in my wagon, and chopped about 1 1/2 coils off to lower her a bit. Yes I did purchase lowering spring, however they changed it FA. So out came the grinder. Now or when I’m turning sharp at low speed, ie into or out of a parallel park etc. either spring dependant on the direction I’m turning gives a good “THUDDDDDD” followed by the shockwave through the car. Ive seen what the spring is doing, it’s is rotating with the turn of the wheel, the sound is when the bottom of the spring skips over the spring locator indent in the bottom spring locator plate. My my question is WHY...??? Why is the spring turning?? How to I stop this annoying and embarrassing situation!! cheers JM
  4. Does anyone know what wire I need to try and re-do this sender?
  5. Hey team, Has anyone ever had this issue before.... KE38 wagon headlights work fine dipped, they work fine when I pull the lever back to flush the high beams, even the centre blue light comes on indicating the lights are infact on beam....however when I push the lever forward to lock the high beams on the headlight turn OFF all together.... I think this this means I’ll be pulling my steering column apart one weekend for an inspection.
  6. Yeah it’s basically stuffed
  7. Does anyone know if eBay or the likes do a new fuel sender or a refurb kit or the likes for A KE38/55 fuel sender ??? Mines not cutting the mustard.....
  8. That’s my temp soldering job to that sensor as I didn’t have the right spade cup to fit it correctly. I replaced the top sensor, that Brought the temp gauge up to maybe quarter temp. Then I brought the wire for the bottom sensor to the same wire as the top and now I’m getting the full reading. almost as as if one sensor is low temp and the other is the mid to high temp range. now onto the dodgy fuel gauge.......
  9. Hey guys, please seebelow pics pics of the two sensors. the obvious one is the top side which sits on the carby side of the water inlet housing just under the thermostat inlet. The second is is on the dizzy side of the water inlet housing and slightly lower down and closer to the head. It was this wire I have traced back I to the dash is connected to the water temp gauge. So, what I’ve done since is connected the wires from both sensors (after changing the top one), taken that wire back Into the dash and to the water temp gauge. Warmed it up and all seemed to work correctly. I’ll take it for a drive tomorrow then tidy things up
  10. My KE38 wagon has a 4K in it. It Has a few gauge issues that I thought I’d iron out, but it’s not quite as easy as i initially thought. Number 1: Why does my car have two water temp sensors?? And do I need them both??
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