altezzaclub

Take a multimeter to a wrecker and try a few of them. There's a couple of KE55s in the local wrecker here, there must be some near you. I've had the Ke70 red light die on a couple of them new, so I keep a couple of spares.

Well, another trip up and back, and its a quiet time for vege farmers. First was re-wiring the back end of the blue Isuzu truck that gets used almost every day. A couple of days had that through rego. Then onto the red truck.. Much heavier, it hardly gets used and suffers from blowing exhaust gaskets all the time. Nice truck- TERRIBLE motor design! I've taken the inlet and exhaust manifolds and the turbo off, all of which hide behind that chassis rail in the smallest space they could fit them into! While I was cleaning and sorting and freezing my butt off, we took time to modernise the workshop! So good! The chimney was a job, but man it sucks! Having run out of excuses it was time to put the motor in the rally car! I've forgotten most of what the hell I did years ago so it was a while getting all the front suspension tightened up and sorted out. We now have a shopping list of odd stuff to buy, and the last job for me was moving the shock mounts on the diff. Next week that can go in and we start plumbing electrics, fuel, brakes and on and on! On the way home I popped into Lake Burrendong, it dams the Macquarie River that starts in Bathurst, flows North of Orange and over to Dubbo and further North-West past Nyngan. There won't be much water getting out there, its at 5%... Then when I get home I find the wife has contaminated the garage! So now I either have a surplus Hoonicorn or Altezza, and both will be surplus later as The Girl is going to buy an i30 she reckons!

Love it! I'm going to go and put my will onto my last 4.5" floppy, give my kids something to do! My bro hid all sorts of things like his gold nuggets and made a treasure hunt for his adult daughters before he died. They phoned me and asked if I had any because they reckoned they didn't have them all!

KE70s don't have a regular Jap diff, they have a regular BorgWarner...

I used these when changing the oil seal on the Celica T-series in my KE70. Not a lot of help to you I'm afraid, the rest will be on Google somewhere.

The last one we did was with an ammonia detergent and leaving soaking rags on it for an hour or two.

You can pull the indicator stalk apart to sand the contacts if you're keen, but the main thing is to put the headlights onto relays. There are kits made for this job on Ebay, either the $125 ones from Vic or wait for the $30 ones to turn up in Australia again. I figure they are all made in China from the same components. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Headlight-H4-Headlamp-Light-Bulb-Ceramic-Socket-Plugs-Relay-Wiring-Harness-Kit/330997592807?epid=25018508875&hash=item4d10fe72e7:g:yzwAAOSwEZtc2-CH You can re-do the wiring with relays yourself, but its nowhere near as neat and tidy, and both methods mean there is no high-beam light unless you also find a resistor to put inline. Check "The Girls KE70", it was one of the first jobs we did.

Sadly true.. I don't mind is people waste their time on Facebook etc, but if we are to actually lose the information on forums we will be looking for the non-existent town libraries to find out how to do anything on vintage petrol-powered cars in a decade or two. There may not be much desire to add anything further to the various forums, but to delete them is like burning the Bible. If there is no history on the internet, history will get re-written be every new Govt!

http://www.club-k.co.nz/Forums/ " Thanks to a generous donation from one of the clubs longest standing members (WDE_BDY) the forum will remain online until 17/02/2020. Until that time registrations have been turned off, as has posting of new topics and replying to old topics. The forum is now just a information database or portal and the search feature is your friend. The way we figure it is that if it hasn't been asked in the last 17-18 years then it can't be that important a question. " Ouch- all that knowledge will vanish!

Can you adapt one of these $50 ones?? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FUEL-GAS-TANK-GAUGE-SENDING-UNIT-FOR-TOYOTA-COROLLA-KE70-TE70-AE70-79-87/132616051279?hash=item1ee0885a4f:g:06kAAOSwVRxb2nqF

That is pretty strange, do both of them give a 100% hot gauge reading if you earth the sensors out one at a time?

Usually we have a vacuum switch on the carb side there, the dizzy side is the temp gauge. Do you think the dizzy side one broke? I don't think it should look like this- and they replaced it with the carb-side one that works? Anyway, it works... You can put a thermometer in the radiator top when its cold and just let it idle until it warms up, so you can check what temperature is which mark on the gauge. There has been many a head gasket blown from a gauge that said "half" when the motor said "boiling!" If you have both on the temp gauge, it should read twice as hot as it is, although I don't expect them to be the same units so they probably have different resistances. You could measure their resistance when cold, and again when hot, and see if they work the same.

Yep, that's all you need. Is it easier to put the can by the dizzy/heater hose firewall? Any hose would do, so long as it doesn't kink over time. The dreaded boat anchor.. if you get up Walcha way we have a couple sitting around doing nothing as we used the AE71s for 4AGE conversions. You could do one up and swap it in.

" 12v indicate between coil(-) and earth. " No, go further... there must be 12V at one arm of the points with the points open. " BO wire goes to distributor from resistor up point." That doesn't sound right. The power must flow through the coil and earth out through the points of the distributor. So +12V to the coil +ve, then coil -ve to the distributor, through the points and to earth. Its the cycling earth of the points that fires the coil. So the BO can go straight to the coil +ve to give it 12V, just like the red wire from ignition does. More Google needed!

PCV is to burn the blowby fumes when the motor is working hard. When the throttle is well open and the vacuum in the inlet is almost nothing a small spring pushes the PCV valve open and fumes get sucked into the motor to get burned. They're replaced by clean air from the air cleaner, but with the ports so close together it hardly matters, it certainly doesn't 'flush' the block! When you lift off the throttle and the vacuum in the inlet manifold increases it sucks the PCV valve shut against the spring, so it is closed at idle. Then the fumes push out the other port into the aircleaner, reversing the flow of when the PCV was open. In theory there are far less fumes at idle with the motor not working. You could delete the PCV and close off one port. Run the other to your catch can and then vent the catch can into the air cleaner. That setup you have just covers the bonnet and everything in oil, so venting the catch can like that just makes a mess. 4AGEs don't have a PCV, they keep a continual suction on the block and must have the dipstick sealed. Probably helps with leaks through the oil seals too.

Easy- Take the wires off the coil +ve, insulate their ends and put a wire battery +ve to coil +ve. Coil -ve goes to distributor as usual. Hook it up and make sure you have 12v at the points with them open. Either a multimeter or just a screwdriver across the points to show a spark. Leave all the rest of the wiring intact and the starter motor should work. This will feed 12V to the coil, while Toyota reduce it to 9V when the car is driving around. That's what the ballast resistor does usually, as it is not a 12V coil.

OK, so it does run when wired correctly, we can assume no components like alternators or regulators are faulty. The wiring diagram will show you which wires go from the alternator to the voltage regulator and where they connect. It will have the colours of each wire too. Three wires go from the alternator to the regulator, you should have the alty contacts labelled F, N and B. When they are on the alty you can test each one at the regulator to make sure you have a circuit, then plug them in. The ignition light wire comes off the regulator as in the diagram. Wire that all up and see if the ignition light works. The fuel cutoff valve is on the side of the carb, you might not have one fitted. The click you hear might be the main relay, you can feel it click with you fingers. Good luck!

Was the motor running before you did whatever you did?

Post up a photo.. I can't think of why you'd need two, are they the same units? Are they both wired in? Where do the wires go? Does it have an electric fan? You use a second sensor for those.

Lack of spark or lack or fuel or lack of timing. Was the motor running before you did whatever you did? Have you tested the ignition with a spark plug on the block sparking, or a screwdriver across the open points? Do you have a multimeter to make sure there is voltage at the points and coil? Have you connected the fuel cutoff valve and does it work? Have you wired the ballast resistor into the circuit.

This will be a good start.. best one I've ever found. https://www.dropbox.com/s/s0xs2udvrv9qfl2/downloadfile.jpg?dl=0

Awesome Dave! Takes me back to my my Datsun 1600s! I suppose it ends up looking like a small Celica... There ya go Pete, just copy that.

Yeah, its a slanty. The usual quad lights fit straight onto a flatty, but your slanty has different panels from the screen forward, including the radiator front panel. So you either do the whole flatfront conversion and cut the radiator panel to suit around the headlights, its not a lot of cutting, or you just modify the front to make it like the blue one there.

What did it look like in the flesh Dave?? I only saved that photo because I think about doing it now & then...

If its a slanty, then yes, that is true, change everything back to the windscreen. Although you could just make the lights fit... If its a flatfront, which I expect it is, then all you need are the lights as far as I know.