altezzaclub

I posted these somewhere for you I thought.. Both these cars are 1983, but the Hoonicorn is a flat-front with a 4K & K50 on a cable, & The Girls beast is a slanty with a 4AGE on a T50 hydraulic. So that pedalbox is from an AE71 that had a 4A-C motor. I hadn't noticed the pedals were so different, even though I converted them both from autos!

Well, I wonder which reason they did it for? The pressure difference is important or the accelerator pump is important? The high fuel pressure richens it for acceleration(11 or 12) and when its cruising it goes back to 14.7. I'm running the mixture display on The Girls 4AGE and it will go down to 16 or 17 on over-run, so it leans right out. After the head rebuild the display showed it was running at 13 or 14 a lot in times when it never used to, and sure enough it used 7.9L/100km instead of under 7 like it usually did. I don't know what has changed to do that.

The final tidy-up was the new whining noise from the cambelt. Actually measuring the tension made me realise it's meant run looser than I expected. Its just lovely to have it on the road again!

Got any figures for fuel use in L/100Km?? Maybe its quite normal.. "the fuel pressure gets lower when vacuum drops??" That depends on what Dave means by a vacuum dropping. The vac operated fuel pressure diaphram makes it richer as you open the throttle and the vacuum reduces, and then the high vacuum of a closed throttle drops fuel pressure as you lift off, a cheap fuel injection version of an accelerator pump.

Threre are no tricks that I know of, have you sprayed it with CRC or WD40 or similar. I usually turn it as I hit the other side. Leave the nut on the end to protect the threads of the bolt.

Well, the rest of the head gasket has just one steel ring holding in the fire.. maybe you don't need more between cylinders! Here's Phil's project, a 4K block over-bored by 6mm.

The head is just a flat surface where it sits on the gasket, so it doesn't matter how big the bore is. Wet liners were used too, they had an O-ring or similar seal at the bottom where they sat in the block and water circulated around the liner. Check out the twin-cam 4K, philfrederick bored a 4K to take 4AGE 1.6L pistons. A few guys have done that.

I think you will get a compression of the distance between the top of the piston/head gasket and the head, versus the stroke. So the air column in your 73mm stroke is going to be jammed into about 3mm, about 25times. Think if you kept the same combustion chamber and bowl in the piston, but bored it out to.. say, a metre! There is a massive flat area around the piston bowl going up to meet a massive flat area around the combustion chamber, compressing that volume 25times. Soon the combustion chamber and bowl in the piston would be so small that your compression ratio would be 25:1. So reboring it wider must give you a compression increase each time, but small rebores will make a small difference. That's providing the piston shape stays the same of course, and it reaches the same stroke height. Someone used VW pistons to get a flat-top piston a few years back, but I couldn't find one with the right gudgeon diameter and deck height. You might be able to get some really interesting parts we wouldn't see in Aussie.

The advantage of liners is that they are factory honed & ready for use, and always use standard size pistons. The head gasket seals on the lip at the top of the liner, so no problems there. They're the precision part and the hole you machine out is pretty simple. I expect they are too expensive a system to use in Aussie, we can precision rebore a block easier.

Of course... there's drought on! So lots of feeding out, a couple of thousand dollars worth of feed every second day, and two guys for a day. When Pete sold part of the farm he got permission to use the giant steel hay barn..complete with its giant 6M X 6M roller door that someone had driven into and the gears slipped when you pulled it up on the chain! So three days were spent rebuilding the planetary gears, and having had it unroll unexpectedly and release the springs we had to wind the tension back on. That's me winding the gears up Steve's mate Ronnie on the haybale ladder with a pipewrench and Steve on the pallet with the other pipe wrench. Its working better now than it has since new! You have to pull it down its so keen to go up! Actually, we DID do something more related to the rally car! We bought 4 straps for tie-downs and are halfway through making mounts for them. It will be "see a KE70 and Gone In 60seconds!" So, next time.. more workshop stuff to do, more carpet up on the walls, fireplace installed, tools moved over, 240V electrical supply..Ha! that's a topic all of its own! Three electricians, no prices yet and solar looking like a good option! We might just beat Project Binky!

Of course more delays were involved with new staff memberss.. I don't know what they are meant to be doing, they're sleeping on the job a lot! I think they're doing QC, they watch a lot from the ceiling.. Typical staff, lots of in-fighting Mao has been up on the hoist for a week, a couple of new steering joints, center driveshaft bearing, and fitting the terratrip sensors. ::Sigh:: there a noobs rally on next weekend, only 45Km of stage, but you don't need a cage and someone I know reckons he can teach them all a thing of two.. Speaking of panelbeating, another job was to tidy up the nana auto for sale, to pay for a MIG welder and welding generator. The back bumper was slightly out of shape and nana had run down the side of a gate or something, but the main things are original, low Km and no rust! If you want a lovely untouched KE70, pony up $4K and its yours! Steve will advertise it properly later.

Meanwhile at the house we were running the bore pump every couple of days, so I started measuring the tank twice a day. Turns out the bore pump doesn't pump 9000L up the hill in under an hour, like it used to, in fact it was only pumping 3000L then struggling to get any more water up. There's a drought you know.. So then I chased water usage and found about 1000L/day of the nearly 3000L/day we were losing, probably 2000L/day going down at the shearer's cottage where Steve's bro lives! We were losing a day's bore pumping every day and a half! We went to town & grabbed a pump and fittings, removed a leaking tap completely and moved the pipe valves inside out of the frost. Now we can switch from the bore tank to the rainwater tank, and we'll run on rainwater until the 20,000L has gone, with NO leaks. Rallying..?? Hang on, the Maxima has a blown head gasket! I have a particular interest in the Maxima, having solved a long-term missfire a few years back, then the injector woes, and I'm not letting it die from just a BHG! So lots of time draining the water system, taking out the t'stat and filling it with some head gasket sealant or another. Every trip had water going into a plastic drink bottle and it was measured. Its only taken a month but damm you can do anything now and it behaves like there was nothing ever wrong. No water goes into the bottle and we ignore the sodium silicate coating everything!

Well, the best-laid plans of mice and men go aft astray.. The Girls KE70 died on me, my fault entirely, and that head gasket change is in the build thread. It did mean I spent May and half of June up on the farm. i suppose it started one night at 2am when I vaguely woke up and heard water dripping.. I leaned over and put the light on, and thought "its coming from the armchair where I throw my clothes".. but when I sat up and knelt over on the bed a drip hit me on the butt! It was dripping onto the bed, through the joins in the tongue & groove ceiling.. So I moved the bed and got a pot..when the drip moved over a board I moved the bed again.. and so on! Next morning trip in the ceiling showed the drain tray on the gas heating unit had rusted out, and it took over a week to get a stainless one copied. So THAT was the start of this trip! Meanwhile we had the benches all welded up, then cleaned and painted. The mobile work bench was earning its money! I will say that working on clean white benches is just so nice!! The first big customer for the hoist was Cobar the Landcruiser that didn't like to go into 2nd gear. Yep, you could lift it up and still walk under it upright! The new gearbox jack made that job simpler too. The box was mailed to Terrain Tamer for two or three weeks, and is now back to be fitted this weekend. Dammit! THAT's where that rope went, I was looking for it yesterday!

Well, I'm stopping at an intersection and the car dies as it idles.. not unusual, the cams give it a rough idle, but this time it was 3 cylindered and it stayed that way the couple of minutes home. So I spent a week chasing the problem until I was due up at Woolshed rallying, and this happened.. Steve to the rescue and we headed up to Walcha. It was head off time, to find a perfect fossilised imprint of a phillips screw in the top of a piston- One of those experiments with the idle speed had got out of the cage some months before, and the screw had popped in, got stuck beside a valve and on the next stroke jammed the valve and bent it! So a couple of valve seats got recut, a new valve and a precautionary skim, and its back together, sitting outside on the verandah ready to drive home tomorrow. Of course it didn't take the month I've been up here, but that story is in How To build a Rally Car, or better named, the 465th reason we are not rallying!

Your Y/G wire is for the temp gauge accoding to the wiring diagram. There's a good copy up on rollaclub somewhere.

What does or doesn't it do?? Do you get 12V at the coil with the key on? 12V when you're cranking? Do you get 12V at the points when the key is on and the points open? If you have a short where the wire goes into the dizzy or at the points the coil won't work.

Grab a larger diam master cyl from the wrecker if the throw is insufficient. I don't think you'll notice the heavier pedal.

That's obviously the breather that goes into the charcoal canister on the KE70. The outlet on those goes into the chassis rail. How about running a plastic one up around the boot and out somewhere inconspicuous with that non-return valve on the end? That's what Datsun did.

Try the nut without the shock in and note how far it screws in. Then put the shock in and try it, and the nut should be maybe 4mm above where it was without a strut in there. Then you know you're clamping down the shock onto the bottom of the strut + spacer.

So, if you suck on just the diaphram units neither of them move the arm in?? Do they leak air through into your mouth? Does the base plate turn easily with your thumb? They are swaged over so wouldn't be repairable, but I expect you can by a new one from some distributor tuning specialist.

Can you turn the base-plate by hand?? If it doesn't move around freely & smoothly take it out and lube the rusty ball bearings it sits on. Unless the vac diaphram has really died...

"Apparently I'll need a spacer in the bottom of the strut body to make it compatible?" maybe... when you do the strut nut up on the new shock it should clamp down on the shock body & hold it in the strut tightly. If the shock can move up and down a little then yes, you need some sort of spacer under it in the strut. Just measure how much play there is with the nut done up, then find a couple of big washers or whatever you need to match the play plus a few mm. Let us know if there is any play in it and how much.

Well, apparently a KA67 is a Carina, so surely you have the right shocks. All you have to do is put the shock inside the strut...

Nice work, that's a pretty subtle problem!

You're confusing me with shocks and struts.. So, the original toyota shocks would have been a wet shock inside the strut. That is a twin-tube system with the strut full of oil. The shock you bought is a sealed unit that needs to go inside the strut to replace the original wet shock. You should pull the big nut off over a container with the shock in the vice like you have and catch all the old oil. Collect the wet shock and put it aside, and clean the strut out. Put your new shock in the strut, fill it with oil to an inch below the top or so & screw that big nut back on. Keep the wet shock as you can rebuild and revalve them for fun if you can find seals for them. That's how you adjust your own shocks, whereas the sealed units you can't do anything about. If you open the strut and find a sealed shock inside you know somone has changed them in the past.