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(Monk) last won the day on June 25 2018

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  1. First thought is how would I fit this engine in the ke20....Toyota GTV
  2. It’s run by the Toyota Club so should be plenty of Rollas there.
  3. I haven’t seen this mentioned yet on Rollaclub. Who’s going?
  4. (Monk)

    5k Wanted

    Next on the list for the Ke20 is a 5k. I have a 3k bigport head and twin carbs for it. Let me know what you have. Located in Victoria.
  5. Looking good mate. Ever feel like the more you do to the car, the more you find that needs doing? It will be worth it in the end!
  6. I looked at a lot of different designs before making my one. The one with the hoops would be smooth to flip over but there is significant cost and complexity in having the steel rolled to shape, bearings to roll on and some reliable system to hold it from rolling when you don’t want it to. Also if you wanted to shift the whole car to the side you would need to mount the rollers on castor wheels. The octagon has minimal ground contact so it slid quite easily side to side on the garage floor. It sat sturdy on each plane with no risk of it accidentally rolling over. I had the bolts and some scrap plate already but if I had to buy all the materials it would be less than $100 worth. That YouTube clip is a pretty complex setup. I imagine something like that would be useful for handling different size, weight and shape cars. Fully adjustable etc. Totally overkill for a home job resto.
  7. Happy to help make you one parrot. It only took a half day or so to knock up. I sold it on gumtree to a bloke. He was sketchy about what he was using it for... maybe making his own Starwars TIE Fighter?
  8. Another couple of pics showing mounting etc.
  9. I am in Melbourne but I sold the Jig 6months ago when we moved house. There is not a whole lot to the design, from memory each side of the octagon was about 850mm long. Then it was a matter of mounting bolts through the spring perch’s and front tow points and adding steel to transfer the load to the octagon. I also had a single tie bar running between the front and back octagon to stop them flopping over. With the shell stripped it was lite enough for me to roll to the next side of the octagon and slide the whole car side to side on my own. I doubt it would be so easy with a larger car but...
  10. Hi Banjo, The rotisserie made some particularly nasty tasks a lot easier. Simple is almost always best! The whole thing cost me maybe $60 to make and saved me endless hours on my back under the car stripping chip guard etc. The more I read about the 7k the more I’m leaning towards finding a 5k to start with. In theory the 5k should be more reliable at high revs? This whole project has been about learning so I’m happy to take my time and do most work myself. I have a spare 4k I can mess round with to get my head round the motor. Then once I can find a good 5k I’m thinking a cam, twin carbs, head work. Basic stuff right... If anyone has a complete 5k sitting round that they would like to sell, please message me. I have a few photos I will put up at some point of the rebuild so far. This site has been an awesome source of info during the project.
  11. Progress! The car is running and passed a roady yesterday with nothing more than a brake adjustment and two tyres to do. It’s a couple of months under being a two year project and it’s a great feeling to see it moving. The next step is going to be to build a better K motor for her that I can switch in with minimal fuss. I have a set of twin carbs stashed and am on the lookout for a motor. So my question is... 5k or 7k? Any reason not to use the 7k? (I’ve found one). I don’t think I’m chasing stupid figures but would like to aim for 100hp? Any feedback or suggestion welcome. Cheers
  12. Thanks for dropping by today kickin5k. I really appreciate the help mate. I will add a one way valve to be safe.
  13. There is no charcoal canister that I’ve seen. That’s not to say a previous owner hasent removed it? It’s a Ke20 though, you mention ke70, would it be something added to the later model? I like the idea of removing unnecessary line and dealing with it at the back of the car. Is there any advantage to having the breather vent into the induction system? I assumed it would capture any lost vapour and half my fuel bill... ;-)
  14. I think I might leave it in its factory layout and just add an inline check valve. This at least positions the end of the line on the carb side of the engine bay to mitigate having a loose hose draped over the engine. Don’t go to any trouble finding the valve please mate, I have just ordered one on eBay. Thanks for your help Banjo!
  15. Thanks Banjo, That makes sense, the line loops up the fire wall at the steering box, across to the passenger side along the fire wall top seam then down to the chassis rail height again before termination inside the rail. Your comment about an anti siphoning measure fits... The loop would be higher than the tank at this point. Strange Toyota has so many different methods to achieve the same result for such a simple item. Thanks for the suggestion, I will look into a non return valve. Cheers!
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