boingk

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About boingk

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    NSW, Australia
  1. Very cool mate, very cool indeed. I've read through a lot of your posts as I'm looking at doing something like this to my own KE20 and saw the AMR500 units listed online. Do you still have the car? - boingk
  2. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    More milestones - working brakes! I fitted a new brake master cylinder, which wasn't without hassle as I had to replace the line insert with the one from my old unit as the thread was different on the new setup. Pro tip, you need a solid vice and a large wrench to break the seal on that insert! Bleeding brakes wasn't such a hassle and everything is now working fine, although I need new rear bleed nipples as the old ones are pretty worn and fragile. After that I gave her a wash 'n' wax, cleaned the engine bay (a bit) and vacuumed out the interior again. She's ready for rego now, no issues at all. A quick test-drive in the back lane saw that she's running nicely and tracking true under brakes, too. More as it happens.
  3. boingk

    Ke 55 auto to manual conversion help

    Hi mate, so by "the crossmember and gear stick aren't even close to aligning" do you mean that the gearstick won't come up through the hole? Or it won't mount up to the chassis and bolt in place under the car? A new hole in the tunnel for the shifter is fine, making a new crossmember is a bit more involved. - boingk
  4. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    Thanks mate, no pictures for now but I did replace the water pump with one from a wreck someone pointed out to me. It was another KE20 that has been abandoned under a tree and is missing windows, wheels, interior and pretty much anything not made of steel. Sure enough, the water pump was still there and after a quick clean-up with a soft wire wheel it went on just fine. While I was at it I replaced the thermostat - I tested the old one in boiling water and it seemed okay but may as well be sure. Also, I made a milestone - I drove it! I figured seeing as most of the big stuff was done I may as well see how she drove, so took her down the back lane and back up again. No real issues there, everything seems pretty normal and I'd say the 53,000km on the dash is legitimate as the suspension and transmission feel pretty good. The tyre and wheel combo scrub slightly up front at full lock but no problems otherwise. So, looks like I have the brakes to fix and and I'm off for rego, woo-hoo! Pictures to follow after I get the engine bay cleaned up. - boingk
  5. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    Thanks mate, and yeah the more you do the more you find. With anything this old I'm pretty well prepared though, hence my entire take-apart of the electrical system to clean ALL the contacts. She's getting close to driveable so the end of the tunnel is definitely in sight! Cheers, she sure was awful (especially inside) when I got her. I couldn't let her rot away out at the scrap merchants, so here we are. The plan for the engine bay is to get stuck into it with a pail of boiling water, toothbrush and kitchen scrubber. If that doesn't tidy it up I don't know what will. I'd pressure wash it but don't want to undo all my hard work on the electrical system! The last bit of work I did yesterday was trying to replace the water pump. It didn't go well - the pump I got sent was the extended spindle type, so I had to lower the drive on it. Then I found that the drive was a different pattern and spindle size to the pulley I have... come on! I've got a new pump and pulley on the way to cover me, fingers crossed. - boingk
  6. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    Today I got stuck into the fuel system. The stock pump is working fine so it is staying, but the rubber line and filter before it were horrible. I replaced them with a clear filter and new line, much better now and you can see the condition of the filter as well. Before I connected the new line and filter to the pump I ran all the old fuel out with a small electric pump, then put 10L of fresh fuel into the tank and used the same pump to draw it through. There was only about 6 litres or so in the old tank but it was pretty brown and off-looking. I'll see if it runs in the lawnmower (it runs pretty much anything) and failing that I'll take it out to the chemical disposal site at the local dump. With the new hose and filter connected and fresh fuel in the tank she runs nicely. All up a successful day.
  7. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    Minor progress, I replaced the points and condenser, as well as cleaned all the individual contact surfaces. Bit of a fiddly job but well worth it - she starts easily now. Next job is to properly drain and flush the tank. - boingk
  8. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    I finally got the tyres on the car. The brakes aren't seized and everything went off without a hitch... minus having to convert to shank-style bolts for the alloy wheels. A master cylinder and brake flush and I'm in business.
  9. boingk

    7k Sprinter Build

    Cool project, glad to see someone else considering the lowly 7k as an option. I like the fact that they're stroker motors as in the light KE10/20 bodies they will have great punch through twisty backroads and can use a bit more camshaft without killing the bottom end compared to the 3/4k. Keep up the good stuff!
  10. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    A few days ago I took delivery of my Cheviot wheels in 13", the seller said they were 7.5" width but the stamp says 13x6JJ so I'm assuming 6". Either way they are in decent condition (apart from flaking paint on one) and I fit some cheap 185/70R13 Bridgestone Supercat radials. They were a slight stretch but went on just fine with hand levers and a bit of the old spray 'n' pop method. The seal on the rims seems good and are holding 24psi just fine. I'll be removing the old wheels tomorrow and seeing what I can do with the old brakes, too. I'm anticipating that the calipers will need rebuilding. At least with the new wheels on I'll be able to move it around as at the moment its smack-bang in the middle of my yard! More as it happens.
  11. boingk

    Chestikoph Sr20Det Ke55 Coupe

    Lovely fabrication work. Straight-forward, functional and structural. This will be super cool to see finished.
  12. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    I haven't taken the trim panels off, good idea though. The seats I left out for a few days to air, and vacuumed the underneath of the seat pans as they were dusty and had a bit of debris in them. Otherwise they look pretty good, the seat foam isn't stained, discoloured or dried out etc. I may take them back out to air. I'm not sure if the insulation has absorbed anything but it didn't look discoloured. I suppose its possible that the humidity brought into the car by washing the floor has released the smell? Its nowhere near as bad as it was but just seems to be hanging around more, if that makes any sense. The hood lining is perfect apart from a few cobwebs. The vents look pretty good but I am yet to get right through them, although I have opened up the heater box and given it a good vacuum. I will probably still get a foul blast once she's opened up on the road, though. Thanks for the kind words! - boingk
  13. boingk

    Boingk's KE20

    Thanks for the kind words gents. The carpet surprised me, too, I'm always a bit wary of reproduction items whatever they may be so it was good to find a mob who made reasonable carpet pans. The listers name is johnnysautocarpets2014 on eBay, the pan was about 120 posted. Progress was getting the ignition to work - the electronic system I fitted didn't cooperate so I will have to find out what the issue there is before going further with it. It could just be a bad module. I did manage to fit a new coil, leads and plugs though. She fired up pretty well with the points dizzy after I cleaned and gapped the points correctly, then I ran a timing light over her and got everything in sync. Idles fine, 13.4v charging, no issues there. Even sucks fuel from the tank which is still partially full... Shortlist for the road: Wheels and tyres. Brake master cylinder - this one is seized solid. Refurbish and fit the resistor for the coil so the points last more than a few hours. Other than that she's pretty good... apart from the lingering smell. I'm trying everything I can to get rid of it but it is sticking around. I've even cleaned the insides of the windows and the rear venetians. Any suggestions? - boingk
  14. boingk

    1977 KE35 CS Coupe

    Goodo, anything up to a KE70 will work - engines, transmissions, some driveshafts.
  15. boingk

    1977 KE35 CS Coupe

    Nice find mate, even if it does need a little work its very original and complete as you said. There will be not a whole lot below 3000rpm in these little guys, especially with the automatic box that both you and I are cursed with. The converter and hydraulic pump both suck energy out of the drivetrain that could otherwise go to the wheels... manuals are much better in these little engines as you've noticed. A K40 will bolt right up, it may be worth a trip to the wreckers to see if they;ve got the whole lot - a rusted and wrecked Corolla to scavenge would be ideal. Timing should be 10 degrees before top dead centre at idle. The bog in the carby may be a bad accelerator pump diaphragm. With the engine off, take the aircleaner off and look into the carb throat. It should shoot fuel down its venturi when you push the throttle linkage. If it doesn't, or only a dribble comes out, you will need a new pump diaphragm. These should be fairly cheap and easy to replace. E10 will destroy carby parts so keep on using 95 or 98. All up, nice ride!