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  1. 2 points
    Nearly there, battery is a bit down on charge so no start today. Finished that steering wheel too, looks mint. Repco stock this zinc stuff, so put some in the oil to help the cams bed in Beer That is all, maybe start tomorrow.
  2. 2 points
    The missus finally out of Hospital and into rehab. One step closer......
  3. 2 points
    Big relief to see the missus without a tube in her head today
  4. 2 points
    Looks a bit more like a motor again! Tried to bolt the manifold on this afternoon and managed to pull a stud out of the head 🀬 will have to wait until Monday now to get a helicoil for it. Once I've done that, it's manifolds on, flywheel, clutch and gearbox and back in the car! Oh and have to change the pilot bearing as it's a bit tight and crunchy.
  5. 2 points
    Very sorry to hear of your wife's brain bleed. Really trust you get a "Good Christmas News" that She is showing great improvement. Being Christmas, which is really for kids, & lots of fun, I can imagine, how you & your kids feel. As Dave says . . . It sucks ! I really, hope that in a couple of months, She is making a full recovery, & that you can look back at this period, as a very bad dream, in the past. I'm sure the thoughts of all of us here on Rollaclub, are with you & yours, at this time. Please yell out, if we can be of any practical assistance. "We are family",. . . . . although many of us, have never physically met. Cheers Banjo
  6. 2 points
    Hey Chums, Bit of an update on the rolls. So I bought it earlier this year, had it running with the mighty K motor for a few months. Decided the 3k just wasn't doing anything it for me and had some spares kicking around from my Celica, figured I'd 3tc swap it... And while I was in the process a turbo and j160 6 speed would be easier to do at the time rather than down the track. So I rebuilt the 3t with stock 3tgte internals, made a manifold, tail shaft, cross member, converted it to hydraulic clutch, remote brake booster etc. Thats pretty much it for now, just been running on 7psi and having a bit of fun with it. In the process of sorting out an intercooler, before I up the boost a bit, going to run a water to air cooler on top of the rocker cover. Also have a M78 commodore diff I'm shortening at the moment for it. Cheers Jack.
  7. 2 points
    Hi Jasper, I would strongly suggest, if you are going to head into programmable ignition, that you seriously consider another kind of trigger, rather than just using points. Points really suck, when used in this precise application. The rubbing block wears, & the cam lobes in the dizzy wear, providing slightly different timing for each trigger. Oh, & they have a habit of bouncing/oscillating at high revs. On top of that, you have to keep the points "wet", by passing a reasonable current through them. Not enough to arc, but enough to get a good clean signal. >100mA. The reason for this, is to "burn off" the very thin film of oil vapour that builds up inside the dizzy, & on the points contact surfaces. I would strongly advise using a non contact system, such as the Accuspark, or maybe a K Series electronic dizzy with VR sensor, as Dave has suggested. The only trouble with VR electronic dizzies is, that their output is dependent on RPM, and when you are cranking, the output of the trigger, is at it's lowest. VR sensor wires are also polarised. Does not work very well, if wired in reverse. There are two kinds of K Series electronic dizzies. Those with VR sensor only, & those with a VR sensor plus an in-built electronic ignitor. The model with built-in electronic ignitor is the better one, as you simply connect the output wire to a 100 ohm, 10 Watt resistor, the other end of which is connected to +12V ignition circuit. You then get a nice square 12 volt trigger pulse out of the dizzy, to feed to your ECU. Even if you can get hold of a K Series dizzy with VR sensor, but no built-in ignitor, you can grab a Bosch BIM024 module, as Dave has suggested, & attach the above mentioned 100 ohm resistor to the BIM024 coil connections. I ran one of those for several years, without issues. The advantage of the Accuspark is, that being a Hall Effect device, it gives the same output amplitude, irrespective of the RPM. All electronic programmable ignition systems, needs a MAP sensor, so you can dispense with the vacuum advance/retard device. However, you will need to dissemble the dizzy, & remove all the bob weights & springs, & then lock the shafts up, so all advance & retard, comes from the programmable ECU. The dizzy, then becomes simply a trigger device, & distributor of the HV to each spark plug. The Accuspark has another advantage, as you can use it directly to get the engine started, & then switch automatically to programmable ECU, as soon as the ignition key comes back to the "run" position. The very best K series dizzy, that I found, to create a source for electronic trigger pulses, is the 3K Denso model, with the Octane adjuster knob. This dizzy is the physically smallest of the K series dizzies. Accuspark do a module for it specifically. They are very easy to "lock up", & remove the vacuum advance unit. I actually made one up for an experiment a week ago. Took me all of 1 hour. 3mm roll pin was all I needed. Hope that assists your decision. Let us know how you are going to trigger the ECU, then I'll give you suggested options for ECU. Cheers Banjo
  8. 2 points
    Had this car for a while now and slowly getting there. It came with the green backyard paint job, jellybeans, threaded bolts, wheel well half full of water and spaghetti wiring amoungst other stuff. Needed a bit of tidy-up. Ive had a few 4 doors over time and managed to hang onto a few bits which went into this car. I bought a written off AE82 twincam and did the conversion. I rebuilt and installed an AE86 front end still with ADM calipers. Its not quick but I like the 4AGE. Grant from NZ did the interior, He's a legend. I love the styling of 70's 2 door OZ fords, Holdens, Chargers so I like my rollas to look ADM if that makes any sense. Theres been a few guys on this site that have helped me with info and cheap parts - cheers short term plans - Dash Refurb in coming weeks new carpet I have steering issues but have parts to fix so need to sort that. Think engine mounts might need replacing (ford laser) Thinking of putting rubber bushes back in the rear suspension, rear end creeks Longer term plans - I have SSR meshies 16 x 7 fronts and 16 x 8 rears that will go on ( everyone rolls eyes but hey, its my car ). I also have some Aussie delta 13x7 that I'm refurbishing. The MK1's will go on my other Corolla. T18 diff Redo the wiring in the engine bay spare 4AGE that I will rebuild at some stage with a little more poke. I don't know much about engines so might aswell have a go and learn something new. Respray entire car, have XB side mirrors mirrors I bought to throw on at that stage if it suits.
  9. 2 points
    Well I don't like to brag but this time I can't help myself. The Garagmahal is finally complete. Just a bit of a shack to store the Princess' rolla and all the family cars with a bit of room for a long overdue work space. No more laying in a gravel driveway swapping a gearbox for me. I am currently in the process of linning it with a bathroom and kitchen as well as living and sleeping quarters. You see fellas this time I got smart, I bought the land, I got the shed before the house so if I run out cash ooops sorry no fancy kitchen instead of too bad not enough coin for a decent shed. We will be living in it until the house is built then its mine to do with as I please. I was even thinking of getting my own project rolla as well as looking after the Princess' KE55 but we will see. #Rollahouse
  10. 2 points
    No worries. I intend to keep the lights on for as long as humanly possible. The fact that 80%+ of our traffic comes from google these days suggests people are finding something valuable here. Things are looking pretty stable now and I blacklisted the worst offending bots that were causing significant resource consumption.
  11. 1 point
    in the middle of doing a conversion on my ke30 to a ca18det , just need a bit of advice on a couple things .. πŸ‘
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    Man, the blue is good. I wasn't too fond of it when I first saw it - now it would be my go to!
  14. 1 point
    This one always brings back the memories. Original little red spirit and all! I cant find a better resolution copy on the internet, its at home on a harddive somewhere.
  15. 1 point
    That is a common misconception mate, we don't drink Fosters, i personally haven't seen anyone drink it since the early 80's, let alone seen it for sale in bottle shops.
  16. 1 point
    Quality of AE86s at the show looks excellent. Nice pics. One day i will have me a levin notch back like that red one. Something cool about that shape.
  17. 1 point
    The big job was fitting a plastic roof to make a glasshouse for growing seedlings- and it even has a wind-up wall! The electricity went off one evening and all the next day, and that's when I discovered there were no lamps or candles at Auburn Vale. What sort of 1920s farmhouse is this?? I dug out a lamp and made sure it worked for next time! I'd moved one of Steve's farm cats down to Auburn Vale and she'd had kittens down there. Now I have them living under the deck outside my room- but that's preferable to what lives IN the room with me! ..and if you're ever taking bets of centipedes versus redbacks, I can give you a clue.. Anyway- back up tomorrow for another hit! Maybe get those struts done AND the gearbox mounts if the MiG is back. No doubt there will be lots to do setting up the inside of the glasshouse too-
  18. 1 point
    Excelling news mr Coln72. Thats a milestone!
  19. 1 point
    Well, Just got a call from the missus. SHE IS COMING HOME TOMORROW
  20. 1 point
    That’s looking pretty good!
  21. 1 point
    '. It doesn't get any better' You're right! I'm up here this week, I'd better take the photos I never remember to take!
  22. 1 point
    Well, the missus ain't home yet but has been moved to Bendigo. Only 45 min down the road now....πŸ˜€
  23. 1 point
    I had only heard of height issues on 7k into ke70 but I could be wrong. Point being a 7k is a lot more findable at least in Australia as the 5k powered vehicles arent really on the road anymore but the 7k vans continued up past 2000 model year. I think a 2.7 litre RZ Hilux motor would be a good conversion if you couldnt find much else. Might be hard to find a tall enough diff, but they really do make great torque and theyre hard to kill. Would be annoying having a useless first gear but youd get used to it. Dont try and make a 4wd box into 2wd, its not worth it. 2azfe engines are everywhere, but judging from the questions your asking, making mounts, oil pickups and manifolds might go over your head at this stage in your modifying career. Also the required W5x box is getting hard to find. I remember when Terry tried to sell one here 5 years ago for 150 bucks, no takers. I just saw one up for $850! Makes it seem like me paying a grand to get a car with one spare was worth it.
  24. 1 point
    Good to hear Matt. You really need to up the comp now! πŸ‘
  25. 1 point
    You will barely notice it when it is painted. Very subtle yet functional as you will have air slip streaming into that slot at the rear of it. Less is more as they say.
  26. 1 point
    Back to 6 stud's again... Now to pick up were I left off 2 days ago!
  27. 1 point
    Well, now I have some information. CE70 wagon S-series rear axle is 1405mm wide from wheel mounting face to face so Volvo 240 axle is perfect. With tailshaft it is another story. It has to be shortened by 20mm so it is easier to find 240 Volvo tailshaft rear piece and take them to someone who has tools to join them and get them balanced.
  28. 1 point
    Is it a steel or cast manifold? If its steel someone could weld it up. But even if its cast a skilled welder could weld it up for you. But make sure they know how to weld cast. Pre heat and post heat etc.
  29. 1 point
    Can I google Kahili Blundell at work. I don't know who she is
  30. 1 point
    I bought some knock off side indicators for my ke70 back in the day. They faded and cracked within 1 year. just cheap shit. Better off finding some decent OEM ones. They will be 40yrs old and a good chance they will still not be significantly faded.
  31. 1 point
    We are in Philippines. There is a large but somewhat disconnected Liteace community here, but the most difficult thing about finding parts is there really are not junkyards. We are left with Facebook as a means of trying to buy and sell, so it is just as easy for me to order from Malaysia or Australia as it is from Manila. Having never owned aToyota, (much less an engine so small), I was surprised to learn about the 4K's and the brilliant work shown in this forum. My original thought had been to yank it out and put in a 22r, but now I'm inspired to see what can be accomplished with what we have. He will happily cruise along at 80-90 Kmh, which is as fast as I dare to go on these roads anyway. The mountains are another story, but am looking forward to the challenge. Already started on the interior. Attending to basic needs like electrical, brakes, etc.
  32. 1 point
    Good write up I'm a fan of the blue - it really fucks me off that manufacturers are not putting a $50 part in a car to push people to a $9000 increase and then don't offer major options like manual on the high spec cars. Then again, I'm get pretty excited every time I pop the petrol flap open in the AE71 and don't have to pull the key out of the ignition like a pleb.
  33. 1 point
    its very.........blue. What you think of the car? fun to drive?
  34. 1 point
    well its a good base....i think? A lot of work ahead of you to rectify all that! Maybe you could be the australian arm of motorfix!
  35. 1 point
    Thanks Matt. Some of you may recall before I pulled this apart I had just fitted a thermostat and oil cooler to help with oil temps on the track. I bought a thermostat from Improved Production and a Mocal 16 row oil cooler and mounted the cooler to the front bumper, there wasn't many other options where to mount it. Now this had a great effect and oil temps dropped significantly and it even helped with coolant temp as well. But the bad thing was if I ever needed to take the front bar off or beaver panel the oil cooler had to get disconnected. Not the most practical or the easiest of tasks, pretty messy as well. So I for this rebuild I had to think of an alternate location for the cooler that was unobtrusive yet still functional and had good air flow. I settled on where I had the oil catch can, this area is out of the way and gets great air flow if you remove the headlight. So I reworked the oil lines and changed the thermostat to a thermostat and oil filter relocator unit in one.
  36. 1 point
    While waiting for some paint to dry at the weekend, I thought I'd better replace the manifold gasket on my 5K engine, currently on the engine stand, for my distributorless project. I've not had this engine apart before, but like almost everyone who has worked on a K series engine, I know this is a weak point in the design. So off with the manifold, & "sure as eggs", those tell tale black sooty marks on the head facing, at the centre, indicate it has been blowing by. Twenty minutes with a sharp knife edge & a soft wire rotary wheel, on the hand drill, & the result looked like this. Now most; if not all K Series engines, were fitted with manifold "bolts", to tighten the manifold to the head. These are well known for coming loose. Most people tighten them up a couple of times a year. However, as the steel bolt, is screwing into an aluminium head, and that head becomes "softer" over the years, the danger of stripping the threaded holes in the head, becomes more likely. For that reason, I always replace the bolts with steel manifold studs, which results in the steel stud only ever being screwed into the head once. The manifold studs are a generic stud 10mm dia. x 1.25 by 40-41mm long. I saw some of these exact size, on a rack in an auto store, labelled as suitable for a Gemini. Available pretty much anywhere. I picked up a set, complete with nuts for under $ 20. Clean the threads out in the head, with a final tap, or an old 10mm x 1.25mm bolt with a hacksaw cut down the length of one side. Put a bit of Loctite, or similar, on the thread, and screw into the head. If it is a bit tight, & you haven't got a stud remover/insertion tool, then two (2) nuts, tightened back to back, on the outer end of the stud, will do the trick. Your head should then look like this. The original Toyota two (2) piece gasket is not the way to go. This is what, they look like. The one (1) piece gasket is thicker & better made for this arduous application, and are made by several gasket manufacturers, like Durapro, Permatex etc. They are often described as an "extractor gasket". All have the identication EMS30 in their part number somewhere. The current price is around the $20 mark +/- a $ 1 or so. It will be the best $ 20 investment you do for your K Series engine. The manifold nuts are most commonly, deep, heavy duty, & of brass construction, so they don't bind & rust onto the manifold threaded steel studs, with all that intense heat. Before you refit the manifolds, run a straight edge across their mating faces, & make sure the mating surfaces of both manifolds have no air gaps between manifold & the straight edge. (A 200mm S.S. ruler is usually pretty good tool for this application) You will also need some heavy very thick washers, with a 10mm hole, to clamp across the gaps between the aluminium inlet manifold, & cast steel exhaust manifold. Do not fit the manifold without these, or be tempted to use ordinary washers. If you do have issues sourcing some, you could always recover the capitive washers, fitted to the bolts you removed, or I think once, I used some head bolt washers, which were the correct size, which were really nice & thick. Once you refit the manifold & tighten them up, run the engine until it reaches operating temperature, then after it has cooled down a bit, retighten them. Some people like to put a bit of loctite on the outer thread for the nuts, but I've never found it necessary to do this. Retighten the nuts after a week or so, & you should never have another manifold gasket issue. Cheers Banjo
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Well that good idea, did not work well, as it was too tight in the area I proposed. Finished up making a little additional mod to mount a magnet, that required no drilling or changing the engine, except a hole in the timing chain cover. It worked perfectly, & I now have a reliable & steady sync pulse (1 pulse every 720 degrees of engine rotation). The little magnet mounting plate can be fitted in any one of 10 positions on the sprocket, so that a perfect spot can be assigned. Just got to build a little fixed logic decoder, to get the timing pulses I need for the ECU, so the ECU only has to worry about all the engine sensor inputs & calculations. P.S. The hole in the centre is for a crankcase ventilation inlet, so that filtered air takes a much longer scavenging path, through the engine. You might have noticed that the Hall Effect sensor I used, has a little red LED built into the back of it, which makes it very quick & easy in real life, to ensure that the sensors are producing pulses. Should be good for trouble shooting. Cheers Banjo
  39. 1 point
    Id like to tag along to one of these things.
  40. 1 point
    Preservation of life is a big motivator. A lot of the service/repair stuff was completed over 3 days when I went to inspect a belt squeal. I just kept finding shit that needed to be done. The further I went it was just easier to fix more seeing as I'd already pulled shit off to repair that was blocking access it lol. One of the front tyres has a leak. Dam it. Oh well I'll take the front wheels off, put the 15x8 zero from the rears on the front and whack the 15x9 zero spare pair I got when I bought this set , that have never been fitted, on. Might need a bit more hammering, both front and rear. The pair on the front at the moment are not the same make as the other 4. Definitly not as well made as the others. Pretty sure the 4 good ones were made in the early days of rep wheels, they definitly have a much more refined, well made feel and finish.
  41. 1 point
    I know who has it.
  42. 1 point
    Hi Stuart, Awesome picture ! Lucky you ! The one for sale & the one in the Railton racer above, were both R R Meteors. If you are interested, here is the history of the Railton Racer above. http://www.leyburnmotorsprints.com.au/component/content/article/3-frontpage-/82-monster-tank-powered-special-to-debut-at-leyburn.html Enjoy ! Cheers Banjo
  43. 1 point
    A $50 vdo temp gauge is worth its weight in gold.
  44. 1 point
    Got this nice little 1 owner a few weeks ago with full log books, receipts and even a Polaroid of it when it was new, its my first Corolla and so far I love it Main reason I liked it so much was that it was kept stock its whole life so there isn't many parts I need to find and I thought it was quite rare to find one in this condition. The drivers side door had a good whack a few years ago the previous owner mentioned, I had to source a new glass window (got the whole door+mirror which was awesome). Wasn't as hard to find as I had firstly thought, other than that the passenger front guard has a small but decent dent in the front near the headlight and the chrome strip is all busted up :(. Not much rust at all considering its age I thought, rear passenger guard is the worst in the whole car. I believe the car had a touch up long ago as there's signs of repair in back of the roof/down between the windows, looks good from far away so that will do for now lol... Dumped the oil straight away and put some nice full zinc Penrite in and gave the engine bay and motor a good scrub. Thermostat was totally seized so that was replaced. New oil and fuel filter. Water pump has seen better days but I have it a good clean and slapped it back on for now. Sanded back the air cleaner housing as it was in a terrible state but gave up after it was good enough as I didn't have the right tools to do it properly. Gave it a paint in white but it looked weird so I went black, need to find the original color code or something... taped up the best looking original paint and the sticker on the housing so I could get it matched if all else fails (not a high priority at all). Rocker cover was sanded back with 1500 and it come up pretty good I thought. Flushed out all the crappy rusty water from the block and heater hoses - was filthy... Gave the radiator a flush with the hose and painted it and the fan cover. Noticed the distributor vacuum advance wasn't working, I think the diaphragm is seized up.. don't have a timing light handy so when I take it to the mechanics soon ill get him to take a look at the distributor and hopefully its an easy fix (doubt it). Does this need to be working for the secondaries to open up on the carb or is it just for the timing when decelerating ? In this photo the carb doesn't look like one of the throats have been working ? Read up a bit about them but still a little confused. I'm thinking ill just send it away and get it rebuilt when I have some cash to blow. Other than that there isn't too much mechanically wrong with it, going to change the wheel bearings cause that's cheap and probably start looking at the bushes and replacing them slowly over time. Ill take some nice pics when its up on the hoist. Really wanted to get the cassette player working so I pulled it apart and gave it a good clean (had to learn how to do this lol). Replaced the belt and found the motor to be seized, come good with some crc lectra-clean and a few spins. Took a while to get it sorted so when it finally worked I was so happy ... made some tapes on a $40 Yamaha tape deck I got off gumtree yesterday just for recording and they sound pretty good (not really) from the original speakers, when I'm cashed up ill get some 5x7 which Ive read should fit in the standard holes - ill check before I buy any as I def don't want to cut any holes anywhere. Video of the player working with a tape I made up :)) https://streamable.com/wvqww Main drama I still have is when I floor the pedal - even when rolling, it just bogs down until maybe 3000rpm ?? then it seems to liven up. Was pretty sluggish when I first drove it but after the little service I gave it and filled it up with 98 + upper head lube additive it seems to have come back to life somewhat. I'm thinking perhaps the timing is simply off, or worst case the carb needs a good service or tune at least. Still haven't got my hands on a service manual as some of them don't have the KE35 coupe and some do - I think... just going to get a newer one when I can which will def have the CS Coupe. So that's it for now, done about 300km over the past week with her all over Brisbane, up the lookout, over the gateway bridge and its very nice to drive! Next on the agenda are wheel bearings, gearbox oil gasket, sort out the carb. Long term goal is to slowly refurbish the rest of the car, the front guard needs to be beat out or replaced and the drivers side door needs to be swapped over with the one I got with the window. Hoping the a KE55 coupe door line up with the body lines on the KE35... I know the base of the mirrors are bigger on the 55 as I have one for my drivers door, the bottom hangs off the body a bit so I'm wondering if the door is slightly wider or something. Hate autos also, would be nice to swap it over to 4 or 5 speed as id like to drive long distance and the old trimatic is kinda limited to 90 unless I want to rev the hell out of it for an hour straight but I don't want to cut any holes to fit it. Ive read the early K gearboxes should bolt right in, but Ive also heard the autos may not have the mounting holes for the manual - its a low priority so not too worried about it for now - its just a cruiser anyway Anyway hope you enjoy the pics, hopefully down the road it will have a total respray in the original color and at this stage ill fix the rust, door and all the big jobs like that as it wont be very cheap to do it properly.
  45. 1 point
    [B]Name[/B]: boingk [B]Car[/B]: 1974 KE20 [B]Motor & Driveline[/B]: 3k-H / Toyoglide [B]Suspension & Brakes[/B]: Stock [B]Wheels & Tyres[/B]: Rotting into ground - Cheviots on the way. [B]Interior[/B]: Stock brown vinyl + black carpet [B]Body[/B]: 2dr sedan, yellow [B]Other[/B]: Bought the other day for a steal, now to get her running!
  46. 1 point
    Flares Fibreglass (50mm)$315 Te27 Front Lip Fibreglass $170 (with Tow hook holes) Te27 Rear Spoiler Fibreglass $200 0426233585
  47. 1 point
    I love it!!! I am going to miss the building updates when you start the rally car again, I think this journey has been much more rewarding.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    Steve bought a drill seeder off Great-uncle Neville, so we went out to fetch that. Way to big to fit on a truck.. Luckily Neville is an engineer and had handy things like several 3/4" socket sets! ..and a tractor big enough to lift it! Sadly both the farm tractors are smaller adn lighter, but we got it to sort-of fall off.. That's another giant project to get working in a few years time! So now we can concentrate on emptying the stuff out of the big shed and finally getting a concrete floor laid! Meanwhile we've agreed to service for Leighty in his 240RS for the Orange Rally next month. If you're around look us up!
  50. 1 point
    Hello What I used out here in the states is a called a Tow Dolly Carina is 1972 TA12 witha toyota tacoma (hilux) stovk W59 tranny and 2rz power plant all stock lock and internals with Haltech 1000, 1000 injectors and Prescision 6262 turbo pushing a little over 323hp I'm at the moment sourcing another motor to build i would like a good streetable 450-500hp set up with either a R154 or W58.
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