altezzaclub

Nice! You should fit the Hall Effect setup, just like a rally car tripmeter. We only use one bolt head screwed in the back of the disc, but it depends on how many pulses you need.

Follow the manual for that one- Your hydraulic tappets run with a zero clearance, while our 4Ks run with 10-12thou on followers. In my first car with hydraulics you pushed the pushrod down slowly with a big screwdriver to empty the hydraulic tappet, then set the gap to 75thou. Once you started it up it rattled like crazy for a few seconds as it pumped the tappets full of oil, then you never had to set them again. The order in setting tappets varies from person to person, I can think of three different ways of doing it, but I'd stick with the manual's system there.

dying to know...! Something like power feed to the unit hopefully.

Diagrams are up on here somewhere, just search "vacuum". I blocked all the lines except the vac advance on the dizzy and the charcoal canister.

Yeah, that sort of cam, you don't need more than 6000rpm in daily driving. You could look at the Tighe 112, which has a similar advertised duration, but opens faster as you can see from the longer 50thou duration. Runs to greater valve lift too, good as you want the valve to open quickly to as great a hole as possible, then shut early to get the max compression. Even the Tighe 104 would be good. I'll check out that Ozito, I've got a few small projects to do.

Are you chasing cam specs for cars less than 10years old? They tend to make long-stroke motors these days and I haven't looked into how they get power and economy out of them. I can't see the 7K being keen to rev, it will all be about getting massive mid-range torque. How are you going to refurbish the wheels?? Is that a sandblast job? I've got a Cheviot set I must get onto.

Well, its worth giving it a try. The pedal arms are 37mm apart, and it looks like the carina has that much room.

Well there's a trick! I haven't seen that one before! Back to running like a rocket?

You can buy capacitor testers, but condensors are so cheap its not worth it. What happens if you pump the throttle up and down, often, but a little each time while its bogged down? That should have the accelerator pump push fuel in. I imagine that is induction sound from having the throttle well open but no exhaust power roar to mask it. Does it bog down with no load in the garage when you open the throttle? Does it just rev cleanly up the range then? Empty revs take no fuel and don't load the electrics either, so its not much of a test. On the road, what happens if you load it up with some left-foot braking while the accelerator is down?? You can try that at different rev ranges and see if the flatspot is constant. Also, is it smooth or jerky? I'd expect a lean issue to be a smooth loss of power, but an electrical issue to be a series of jerky missfires.

That looks like a stock KE70 pedal setup. Here's my 5K manual setup, converted from auto also. Here's my other KE70, pedals from an AE71 so it is hydraulic for the T50. Quite different, but bolts straight in.

The KE70 just tacks a clutch onto the side of the brake pedal mounting, and the clutch pedal arm has a massive bow in it to get down past the steering just like the brake arm.

Pop the top off the carb & clean the jets and passages in the first throat. Just in case something was loosened up in your first clean and block a drilling afterwards. It will idle on the idle jet & drive away to 1500-2000rpm still using the idle jet before it hands over fully to the main jet in the primary side of the carb. When you boot it the secondary comes in and it all works again until you back off and rely on the primary.. Does the accelerator pump push raw fuel down the carb when you open the throttle?? The condensor & coil could do it, either could break down under load, but it would be strange if they recovered at high throttle.

Two important things in tuning- Ignition points gap. Must be set with feeler gauges or a dwell meter. Ignition timing. Must be set with a timing light for best results, although you can set it about 10deg before top dead center by hand. Once you have it set to factory specifications we can chase any other problems. Carb jets... Google found me this on Rollaclub, from GMJ85-

What is the ignition advance on the motor currently? Have you had it tuned as far as points gap & timing goes?

Retirement project.. as life got in the way! I have lots of them awaiting.. Take some street photos around Long Beach for us.. Any old KEs around these days??

"& the car was stopped.." Now if only we had ABS the relay could read that! Yeah, I have a manual over-ride on both my 70s, I flick it on at roadworks after a 100kph run, the only time there is heat to dissipate. At least it gives me a running start at stopping the temp going up while stopped.

only if the car is not moving. 3 or 4 minutes stopped? 11.37.30 to 11.40.30?? Are all three at the same temp before you start the car in the morning?? I can't get my head around the bottom hose being hotter than the back of the head! Something is not right... Swap those two sensors over! The back of the head and the top rad hose follow each other well, but the bottom hose..

Well, the back of the head gets cooler than the bottom hose...!! That sudden rush of flow when the t'stat opens every 5min means very little cooling gets done and the bottom hose temp gets hotter than the back of the head. Then it cools for 4 minutes or so until the next pulse. I thought the t'stat would have a more even flow, but all three measuring points show the same cycle of up and down.. .. and both bottom and top hose have a max temp of 93deg, so no cooling w/o the fan when stopped. Now you'll have to add a throttle position recorder to see when the heat is being produced...

Well, do you think you've got better flow from the rear of the head now?? What worries me was the flow in the first trial setup, from the pump to the back of the head. Was there a way to check how much flow you had and in which direction?? Is that heater connection is on the positive pressure side of the pump, so were you pushing cold water to the back of the head, maybe over a very slight pressure differential so hardly any flow.. or were you pulling 75deg water from the back of the head and slowly adding it to the water pump to cycle round again?? Were you holding 70deg water at the back of the head until it heated up to 75?? Now you're taking 70deg hot water that has just come up from the block and actually getting it flowing quickly to the front while the rest of it winds past the combustion chambers going up to 80deg. Have you increased the flow through the block so the water is flowing from the block to the head is 5deg cooler?? If the head is more restrictive to flow than the head gasket, you may have just increased the flow noticeably.. Even MORE questions now!

Oh, it will be, no doubt about that! The dash comes out, steering off, thousands of screws and hidden connections, instrument panel, half the ventilation system.. Check out my topic about conveting a KE70 to manual. Worth it in the end though! If you can, go Altezza 3SGE. Easy power compared to the smaller 4AGE and easy driving for a daily. Get the whole package of a half-cut .

Was it running recently, or has it sat for a few years?? Just wondering of its a resin/dirt problem rather than electrical. Have you got a wiring diagram for it? I suppose you can at least test the injector circuit within the injectors. Fuel pump pressure OK?? Does anything else not work??

Never see them over here, they're all in Malaysia-Indonesia. The clutch & pedalbox will have to suit the gearbox you buy, so yeah, cable for a K50 & a Starlet/Ke70 pedalbox. Wiki says they used 3T, 1S & 4A motors, so throw away the motor & box and fit something decent! How are those Altezza 3SGE/J160 packages selling over there? Are there many Carinas in wreckers yards with the right crossmembers?

OK, so its is raising the incoming coolant temp slightly and constantly. Yep, that makes sense. So top hose at 80deg, t'stat opens, more water flows through rad, heat mass drops & temp goes down? ..or... at bottom hose 68deg the t'stat opens and water is pushed through the rad too fast to cool, so temp goes up to 72. Then t'stat closes and slows the water down so it cools more and temp drops back to 68deg. I dunno, only the top temp change has a shoulder, the bottom one is very sudden. Top is closing, bottom opening? I always assumed the t'stat ran at a fairly constant opening, but it looks like its very active. It cycles up or down every 10secs, like dropping one in a pot of boiling water. I wonder if the water pumps mixes it & flattens out the troughs & peaks?? or are the water jackets being subjected to the temp cycling? Can you see the burst of heat as you accelerate up through the gears and then cruise? Can you see when it idles?? Answers always just bring more questions!

It will be interesting to see if the internal parts of the urethane have cracked like that, or if its just in the exposed ends. It suggests to me that the urethane is formed under pressure and relaxes over the years. So it grows larger and splits when unconstrained. The bush inside the LCA might not be split at all. Otherwise, the constant rotation must be pulling it apart along ingrained fault lines.

So the rear of the head is 5-10deg cooler than the t'stat/top hose. That's interesting... Its often as cool as the lower rad hose, and that hose is interesting because its so erratic. I wonder what causes that?? When the fan came on it cooled quickly.