altezzaclub

Yes, definately quieter since instant social media took off. The 'other' Newcastle.. been a while since I was down Rectory Rd. All those people with their own version of English.. Brakes & diffs- Most guys use Peugeot & Hilux, but most people add far too much unsprung weight to a light car. What are you planning to do with the car?? ..and what sort of driver are you?? If its foot flat and burnouts everywhere, then use the big stuff. If you can drive smoothly, then simplest would be AE86 front & rear. If you can't find anything, just use old Celica front ends and sort out the steering arms. If you look up 'the girls KE70' you'll see I used Diahatsu Move ventilated discs on KE70 struts. Then find a T-series rear. Upgrade to a G-series from the vans if you're keen. I'd start at big wrecking yard with a camera and a tape measure, there are some 5-link rear diffs with discs on under a lot of vans now, and they are lighter than the ute stuff. Otherwise trawl the SR20 builds on here and Toymods, at least they have done the conversion. I always wanted to put the SR20 out of my SSS into a Corolla, but it got stolen & torched.

Well, here's the trailer as it stands.. the drawbar is sitting on top of the frame waiting to be bolted onto the bolts just in front of the wheels so it tilts. Then we need to organise some floor that a wheel-less car can slide up easily. Meanwhile Ronnie rocked up for the weekend to work on his 4AGE conversion. His blue KE70 had run over a very solid stump last year and was no longer reckoned as a vehicle, so he had bought one of the beige KE70s off Steve as a stop-gap. Recently he bought an AE71 from Dodgy Habibe in Sydney, and when we got it home we found the abysmal panelbeating in the passenger's front engine bay. So we dragged it out yesterday and he stripped all the panels off, only to find it really should be cut 'n shut in that corner... Then he figures maybe we should cut half a nose off a donor and fix his blue car, which is seriously shortened underneath, so we dragged that out today. Figuring we'd take it straight to the panelbeater and ask his advice, we had to get it on the trailer. No steering of course... but wait, the Kobar winch! Well, having not been used to years, it only winched out but not in!! After breaking off the corroded terminal involved it meant someone jamming the cable on with a big screwdriver, while someone else worked the controls. The rope goes over the roof! Well, that's the Woolshed way... through a pulley mounted on the roofrack, over the rear roller, past the trailer to the KE70. Yep, the last owner had a tinnie! ..and the application of enough grunt made it easy! The panelbeater saw it this evening and said yes, just bring down two cars with completely empty engine bays and he'll give us one back! That's the red Spirit in the background, carefully converted to a flattie years ago. It will lose the whole nose, drivers side to Ronnie's blue car, passenger's side to Ronnie's white car. So another day, another reason not to have a rally car built!

If you read the same topic I did, the 7A head has a smaller combustion chamber because the pistons are bowls, so yep, you will get higher compression on the 4AGE block. However the ECU work will likely be a nightmare, and make sure you have a good knock sensor! ..and probably the later posts were correct, "you will spend lot of money to get a moderate gain", and there are better ways to utilise that cash..

A boilerman is the ideal guy to sort out the new MIG Steve bought, and he said the new genset provided cleaner power than the 240V at the powerpoint. So the car was soon stripped, the sill was soon off and the floor generally straightened. The donor sill came from the most rusty AE71 we'd ever seen, but the sills were fine! Meanwhile Steve's cuz was up and chasing the oil leak in Steve's landcruiser.. (yeah right.. only one??) Ronnies car was being sorted and I was busy in the workshop. Then they decided this was all too easy, and raced off to the neighbours, where they scored an old caravan chassis as a trailer. This lightweight deathtrap was shortened, narrowed, and then had the whole front chopped off to be converted to a tilt-trailer... all to replace the sled in moving shells that don't have wheels! Seeing I lost my camera then, I'd better get some photos of it tomorrow! AND, I've completely forgotten about the month spent restoring the immaculate Corona wagon Steve bought off the original owner..... and then gave it to his girlfriend! I'll find some photos.. Here we are, this wagon... except it has "L" plates on these days... Runs beautifully, we even fitted new front shocks. I hope it lasts another 30years! The Orange Rally came up when I'd gone home, and Leichty asked Steve & I to service for him. He rocked up with the Nissan 240RS and we had an easy morning until he complained of the front being noisy at the lunchtime service. We found the bushes had disintergrated in the steering idler arm giving it half an inch of slack, so Leichty withdrew and dropped the car off at the Woolshed on his way home the next day. Steve & I stayed down for a wrecker raid last Monday and hauled struts, LCAs, brake boosters and diffs out of old Coronas. Then it was into the workshop, and amongst other odd things we found the front sway bushes had disintergrated too, just leaving a smear of blue plastic behind. A Sylvia 240RS, haha, Sir we don't list those.. However I think the same sway bushes are in Patrols, and the steering bushes in C80 vanettes. We will see next week! Build our rally car?? What! There's so much else to do!

Welp! That time went fast! Actually, I lost my camera last month, so things got delayed until I rescued it from Ronnie's KE70. That was at the Woolshed after we picked it up in Armidale with a terrible surging, and spent a couple of days sorting problems out.. However, it all started when Dan the Boilerman was keen to join the team and help build rally cars. He drove down from BNE and we hooked the last section of mezzanine onto his ute.. We sledded in with it (almost) empty, and sledded out with it full.. It had run down a bank and crushed the sill , and while it might not make it back on public roads, Steve had bought it as rally car #2.

Yep.. Now, how do we set up a system where we can touch base with each other &/or be informed of what the problem is?? I thought rollaclub on facebook would have had something, but apparently not.

Are you sure it was empty when you put it in?? Did you drain it then? You could drain it, put the plugs back in and pour 1.7L down the gearlever hole, which is what I did when I couldn't get the filler plug out....

What's it look like?? A long straight one like Banjo's post?? 8 or 10 fuses?? I can have a look at the wrecker, but they are only KE35 & KE55. They've gone to 2-rows wide by then I think. Another chance may be at Woolshed Rallying on the old Coronas lying around, I'll be up there next week for a look if you can tell me what shape I'm looking for .

Buy a 110deg thermometer and stick it in the radiator. Cover the front of the rad & let the motor idle from cold to hot and check the gauge against the thermometer. At least you'll know what temp the gauge marks mean. Your sender may not be compatible with the gauge, or the gauge might be crook. I found the 4AGE gave incorrect (well, different to the 4K) readings on the KE70 dash, but now I know what temp the marks are at. A mate blew the head gasket in his Maxima because at boiling the gauge only read 'half'....

Ah- I see you were looking at my topic on AE86DC, where I was also looking for a manual some years ago. Where do you live joomen? Parrot was kind enough to photocopy the manual for me & I can either scan/copy the bits you need or loan it to you if you are close. Have you rebuilt gearboxes before?? How bad is the one you are working on? I have the shafts and bearings in at a gearbox shop right now while they chase new bearings, but back when I first tried this I was told there are no new cage roller bearings in existence, they were a specific Toyota part. The shaft is spalled, but the g'box shop reckon they can get it built up and re-ground. If the bearings are unobtainable then the gearboxes can't be rebuilt at all, and we will run out of manual boxes sooner or later. I will chase the g'box shop on Monday & see what they have found out.

Probably not if you can design something the right size. What sort of car?? The KE70 pulls air from the mudguard usually, not in the engine bay at all. I made the whole air cleaner box and put a cold air tube to the front by the headlight- a bit of 65mm plastic downpipe. Worked so well I had to relieve the pressure in the airbox with a flap that lifts up at speed, or it would lean out the carbs. One thing it did demonstrate was just how much air the motor swallows. The flap would be closed in say, 3rd gear accelerating, then as I throttled off to change to 4th it would pop open, then slam shut as I accelerated again. The limiting factor in that engine is the carburation, the air inlet system can feed more than the carbs can use. https://www.rollaclub.com/board/topic/42407-the-girls-ke70/

No way of replying to this.. Other topics OK. Am I missing something?

"How does she drive." Yes, what's the first difference you feel when you go from a stock offset to the deep dish?? Steering quite different? I've never figured out why the world went from dished rims to flat-face, it leaves the inner rim so unsupported..

Find as many prices for similar Corollas so you have a value in mind that you can demonstrate to them. If you want to have it repaired, bargain for the right to the car, as many companies pay it out then take posession and auction the wreck. I'd expect it takes a tiny accident to write these cars off, labour at panelshops is so expensive that minor accidents are writing off 10yr old cars now. I'm amazed as what I see at Great Western Wreckers. Best-case I expect will be to get a thousand bucks from the insurance company and retain ownership of the car. Then you need a mate who is a panelbeater to help you strip and repair it. A chassis machine can pull a chassis straight, or a donor car can be cut and the rear-end welded into place. Look up regulations for statutory writeoffs, you don't want the car declared that or it can't be repaired for the road again. Good luck-

Thanks for the offer Mullet, but a copy of the K gearbox part of the T18 book has just arrived from parrot! Its great to see these manuals still exist and are in circulation! I'll let you guys know if the gearbox shop comes up with some caged roller bearings.

Grab a vice-grip and when it cranks slowly just put the clamp on the lead terminal and see if it improves. It will charge through a small contact as it charges slowly, but spinning a starter motor takes a few hundred amps and good connections. - or swap batteries with another car for a few days and see if it is better. It may be a slowly dying battery.

"The best way is to install a proper temp gauge and use a thermometer to check its accuracy. " Yep- buy a 110deg thermometer for $10. Then idle the motor from dead cold to the maximum it gets to with the rad cap off and the thermometer in the top of the radiator. You can slip a sheet of newspaper down in front of the rad to help it as the motor isn't under load. Note down the temp and time it takes, and you will get a curve. If the temp gets to 100deg you have a problem, the cooling system just isn't up to it anymore. It should show cold, then quite quickly go to 75deg or so, and slowly climb to maybe 80 odd. Then you will know what temperature the marks on the gauge really mean. In pouring rain it shouldn't get hot at all.

The Locost guys have been onto it for years it seems- Motor mounts- http://mannylocost.blogspot.com/2009/10/engine-mounts-and-start-on-pedal-and.html J160 adapter- http://mannylocost.blogspot.com/2009/10/1zz-fe-engine-to-j160-gearbox-adapter.html The lack of block attachments for engine mounts is something I'd never thought of. His solution is not ideal, but I can't see any other way. Comments from a guy who owned one of those Rollas was that it was uninspiring but adequate in traffic going to work.. and an animal over 6000rpm when the dual valve lift/timing hit! So you wanted to drive it over 6000rpm all day. Someone else said there were chips to lower the cut-in revs. Old motors now, for blocks that can't be re-bored.

haha! yes banjo, I saw that too! it still didn't lead me where I wanted to go! I still have the K40 in bits and a fully disassembled K50 downstairs, but I didn't strip the K50! I popped into the local gearbox shop and they will replace the seal for $105/hour plus parts... That's the same as the first shop that stripped my first k50 and wanted to re-new everything! Anyway, Orange Auto reckon they can get bearings, so I will drop some bits down to him and if he can source parts I might get the dis-assembled one rebuilt. It needs metal-spray on the bearing surface to build it up, so it all might get too expensive. The one in the car.. well, I bought a can of Rislone transmission stop leak, so I'll toss that in and see if it helps. Parrot, if you could copy that part of the manual I would be grateful. There is no hurry right now, but when the Rislone gives up I'll need to do it. I also have the Gregorys manual that says "its all too hard, don't touch it!" Thanks guys!

The Hoonicorn has a leaky front gearbox seal & it can only be replaced by stripping the whole box from the back. If it didn't oil the clutch I'd ignore it! If anyone has the Toyota manual e-book that is floating around some very dodgy internet sites I'd love a copy. The last time this happened I took that box to a gearbox shop to replace the $10 seal and they gave me back a box full of bits saying it was irrepairable as they couldn't buy bearings... all I wanted was a seal put in! Thanks

You'd jump the T-series, they're too old & worn out, and go straight to a J160 6-speed. Then you need an adapter plate to fit it on the motor if at all possible with input shaft dimensions, and the room in the car to fit a rather large gearbox. We will all come to this problem as our K boxes can't be rebuilt as there are no bearings anymore, T boxes can't be far off the same problem, and there are no small RWD gearboxes in the Toyota range.

mmm.. drop into a KE70 nicely.. 225bhp if you buy the right motor! No wonder those Lotus' fly!

"that could be used as camshaft signal for the independent ignition. " The problem there is the slap in the gears between accelerating and decelerating. The timing signal would shift a few degrees each time. I suppose it would be as accurate as the timng is on a stock motor, maybe accuracy isn't that important. Banjo, can't you adapt the trigger in the K series electronic dizzys we use now?? It means a bit of metal sticking up from the flywheel edge and the sensor in the bellhousing rim like you planned, but a step further rearwards from the ring gear. It's a knife edge strip to give a sharp impulse, rather than your circular magnet that has a broad effect. Set it on the flywheel with epoxy and have a threaded mount on the pickup to move it within a few thou, like we do with the Terratrip sensors. Actually, they work on one of the four bolts in the back of the front discs, we just put a couple of washers under it to raise the head above the other three.

yep- 5 years or so back I took The Girls KE70 up to Cairns to fix up a rental house & sell it. Walking out of the supermarket I found a beautiful AE86 parked near the KE, and while I was looking it over the owner came back. He was my age, 60-something, a farmer out of town, and had bought it new. Said it hardly got driven these days as he and his wife both had SUVs and the AE was too hard to get in and out of... I'd only just got into Toyota and didn't attach any significance to AE86s, so never offered him the couple of grand he'd take for it!.. So... what should we be buying these days for 20years time??

Maaate.. they're rooted..! I'll give you $100 for them so I can use them for parts..! Actually, just what everyone said, they're not right, probably worn out/broken and you will have to strip them right down then find out how they work. Take the shocks out of the struts and start from there. Find out what doesn't fit properly and what doesn't tighten down correctly. Definately get the wheel alignment and don't run max negative camber! You will need more toe-in for every degree neg camber to even out the tyre wear across the tread, and those tyres will vanish quickly!